Hyline Offroad JK Hood Louver Panel Install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-21-2011, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hyline Offroad JK Hood Louver Panel Install

Key: Black text is MFG's directions. Blue text is my commentary.

Hood Louver Panel Installation


Step 1 – As a safety precaution - Remove the hood from your vehicle before drilling or cutting. First, remove the engine grounding strap, hood light, and/or windshield washer hose from hood. Then unbolt the 4 Torx bolts from the hood hinges using T-50 Torx. Hood should now be free to remove from vehicle.

Step 2 – Once the hood is removed, place the hood on a flat, solid work area. Then remove the u-shape tie down bracket using the 9mm socket. Tie down bracket unbolts from under the hood. You do not need to remove the windshield bumpers or the washer nozzle.

Step 3 – Place painters/masking tape either on the hood or backside of the steel template to prevent any scratching.

I covered almost the entire hood with blue painters tape to protect the finish from the template, tools and my leaning on the hood.



Step 4 – Place the one piece steel template in the center of hood as shown in (Figure 1 [on direction sheet]). Reinstall the u-shaped tie down bracket. This will locate the template in the appropriate location.

I noticed that there was a large amount (about ¾” rotational motion in the template while only secured during this step. Be sure to measure side to side / front to back measurements to ensure that the louvers are centered on the hood!

Step 5 – Using 3/16” Bit, drill one hole through the template and hood at one corner, as shown in (Figure 2 [on direction sheet]). Install and tighten the supplied 10-32 screw and nut. This wil ensure template stays in place while drilling and cutting.

Step 6 – Drill through all the holes in the template using the 1/16” bit.

I was very careful with the pressure I exerted while drilling with the 1/16” drill bit, but still managed to break three bits. Be prepared with extras BEFORE you start. They will break.

Step 7 – Using a marker or scribe, trace the cut-outs onto the hood. Once you remove the template you will be able to use these lines to cut out the air vent panels.

I clearly marked the template cut-outs with a sharpie marker on the masking tape and then removed the template.

Step 8 – After all holes are drilled using 1/16” pilot bit and cutouts are traced, you may now remove the template. Now use the ¼” bit to drill out the pilot holes—60 holes total.

After this, I fit tested the louver panels to ensure a good fit! The template holes were spot on, and it fit like a glove!



Step 8 – Once drilling is completed, Use 1” Hole saw and drill each corner of the 4 cut outs (14 times total). You can then use the jigsaw or cutoff wheel and cut each air vent panel out.



First, I attempted to do the cuts with my cutoff wheel, but I only have a 60 gallon air tank and my compressor couldn’t keep up with the demand, so I switched to using a metal blade in my reciprocating jig saw. I did not drill the 1” hole at each corner of the cut-outs, but I drilled a 5/16” hole in each corner to enable my jig saw blade to start and cut out the panels. I felt that I could safely make the vent holes a bit bigger than Hyline’s template for the side holes without encroaching on the hood support beam, so I ended up with a triangular shape on the sides. The photo above verses below shows the comparison of the template verses what I cut out.



Additionally, I did not use a 1” hole saw on the underside of the hood. I used a ¾” speedbore bit, sacrificially, to widen the holes that went through the support. This more than enabled me to get a ¼” drive, 3/8” socket on the bolt. Be prepared to throw away (or sharpen) the speedbore after drilling metal as speedbore bits are made for wood only.



Step 9 – Use a file or sandpaper to de-burr any sharp edges from panel cutouts and/or drilled holes. Remove masking tape also if necessary.

I was not happy leaving freshly cut & unpainted edges on the underside of my hood as a prime invitation for rust. I did not want to go through the trouble of masking and spray painting them, so I painted on liquid electrical tape. This give a paint on waterproof layer of protection in a fast drying product.



Step 10 – Install the Hood Louver Panel onto hood and assemble nylon locknuts to threaded studs. Tighten nuts just enough until they touch the hood steel. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NUTS. Over tightening
will cause distortion on Hood Louver.

Before I installed the Hood Louver Panels to the hood, I applied a ¼” bead of high temperature (400 degree) black silicon caulk on the perimeter of the louvers INSIDE of the screw posts. This made a nice transition from louver panel to hood and eliminated the very subtle but visible seam.



Step 11 - Re-install hood onto vehicle and re-mount the two rubber windshield bumpers and u-shape tie down bracket. That’s it, you’re done.

When I removed the hood from my JK, I noticed that there was no factory paint un the mating surfaces of the hood/hinge area. I applied a liberal amount of paste wax to both surfaces and re-installed the hood. The excess wax oozed out which reassured me that I had acceptable coverage. I cannot guarantee that this will prevent rust, but it made me feel better.

Use CAUTION when re-installing the tie-down bracket: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the nuts or the bolts WILL BREAK. Ask me how I know! Anyone have an extra hood tie-down?

This is my first JKO write-up. I have my big-boy underoos on so feel free to comment, correct or otherwise blast me (ie: Show me the JKO love!) if you have even read this far.




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post #2 of 10 Old 07-21-2011, 02:25 PM
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I dont hate it. it looks cool.

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post #3 of 10 Old 07-21-2011, 04:52 PM
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Did you do a before/after of underhood temps?
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-21-2011, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spillidge View Post
Did you do a before/after of underhood temps?
That would have been way to technical and scientific!
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-21-2011, 07:15 PM
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I think it looks great! And nice write-up! I am curious if it actually cools the engine. But either way, it looks good.

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post #6 of 10 Old 07-22-2011, 07:26 AM
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Seems like a lot of work if there's no function to them. Does look good though.

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post #7 of 10 Old 07-22-2011, 07:20 PM
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I like it, but I don't understand why they would have the two in different directions.
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-23-2011, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkrubitm View Post
I like it, but I don't understand why they would have the two in different directions.
Air intake (forward facing), vents (rear facing).

I guess.
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-23-2011, 04:27 AM
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looks good.. nice write up ! i think it would be nice if their was some kind of trim piece between the panel and the hood ( around the edge ).. just to make it look like the louver is part of the hood alittle more than sitting on top... but looks good nice work
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-26-2011, 02:02 PM
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im looking at these now, just so very surprised its only 4 holes for all that added metal...

hmmm to price out or not to price out...

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