Advance AdaptersTransfer Case Shift Cable - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 07-13-2011, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Advance AdaptersTransfer Case Shift Cable

Here's one of those great products that eliminates a glaring and potentially hazardous deficiency in the JK. Advance Adapters makes a superb upgrade kit that replaces the JK's poorly designed transfer case shift cable, with its weak plastic bushings, and reinforces the shift lever mechanism as well. You can see this link for a description of the kit, plus a video of the major points of the installation.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-715596/

Because I have a Poly full skid on mine I had to go through some aggravation to get it off and reinstall it. If you still have the factory skids you'll be able to do this in a lot less time than it took me. Here's a few things I found along the way of the install:

o The console removal is pretty easy. You have to remove the t-case lever knob, which can be a notorious PITA. Mine simply would not budge so I put the hook of a small ratchet strap under it and attached the other end of the strap to the rear roll bar. A few cranks on the ratchet and it popped off.

o Once the console is out you have to pop off the cable from the lever and remove the shifter assembly. Take the shifter assembly's top cover off INSIDE the vehicle and you can get to that pesky fourth nut no one mentions.

o Removing the old cable is a PITA! But, in the process don't damage the sealing grommet, it needs to be installed on the new cable and pushes in from the under side. You'll need to cut the old cable in half, slip the grommet off, open up the hole carefully with an X-Acto knife and slide it onto the new cable. Then you can install the new cable.

o AA's instructions on disassembling the shifter and installing the upgraded components are on the money, just take your time. The kit comes with two 1" hex headed bolts for the metal cable bracket you have to add to the shift assembly. The third one is a 1" allen head bolt. I thought they'd shorted me a bolt so I scrounged one out of my stash. (Forewarned is forearmed!)

o The kit requires replacement of the t-case shift lever (the one on the side of the t-case). To get to it you have to remove the front output yoke on the NP241 Roc Trac. Not really a big deal, but take care not to damage the seal. AA, being a quality vendor, supplies a proper new yoke nut, rather than sending you off to the dealer for one. Thank You, Advance Adapters!

o AA's instructions are NOT on the money with regard to the orientation of the new t-case shift lever. They have the picture backwards. If you put it on the way they say in the instructions you can't engage 2wd HI. Just flip it around. You can confirm this by watching the video, they install it the right way on the vid.

o The cable adjustment is tricky. In addition to having put the t-case lever on backwards (per their instructions!), one of the heim joints they sent me wasn't threaded all the way. So, when it bottomed out I didn't have enough adjustment on the cable. I figured it out, and the flipped t-case lever, removed it and ran a tap through to the bottom.

o Once I had the everything installed right the adjustment was fairly easy, but it's not really possible to adjust the cable the way they say without both ends attached to their respective levers. You just have to make sure the cable travels far enough to engage both 2wd HI and 4wd LO fully. These are at the opposite ends of the lever travel, so it's a matter of trial & error until it's right.

o Before you button everything back up make sure it's adjusted right by moving it through the ranges one at a time and spinning the front output yoke to ensure it's engaging correctly. In the process you'll feel an immediate improvement in shift quality.

o At this stage I got to spend an additional couple hours reinstalling the Poly skid system. F*&%!

o With it all back together I took it for a spin. Wow, what a difference! Each gear engages with a positive lock, no fishing around or worrying the clips are going to break.

o The only negative is noise. Because the cable is mounted metal to metal at the t-case lever, the trans mounting bracket and at the shifter it transmits a bit of transmission & t-case noise into the cabin that wasn't there before. Might be able to eliminate some of this by using rubber washers at the cable mounting points, I'm not sure on this.

By all means, spend the $185 on this kit. No more broken clips and now a quality shifter!

Last edited by SoK66; 07-13-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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post #2 of 22 Old 07-13-2011, 03:34 PM
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Cool, me like.

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post #3 of 22 Old 07-13-2011, 04:24 PM
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Cool, me like.


Me too!!!

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post #4 of 22 Old 07-13-2011, 04:51 PM
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Great...just one more thing to add to my already too long wish list.

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post #5 of 22 Old 07-13-2011, 09:59 PM
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pics?

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post #6 of 22 Old 07-14-2011, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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No, sorry. I just get too involved with stuff like this to stop & take shots. My bad.
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post #7 of 22 Old 07-14-2011, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, wanted to add something I noticed I hadn't mentioned above. Routing the cable underneath presented me with some interference issues and AA didn't mention this in their instructions. Some of this was just related to my rig perhaps. First, the left rear oxygen sensor lead had been wrapped around the upper trans cooler line and the cable, even the OLD cable, wanted to rub on it...not a good plan. The only way to eliminate it and untangle Chrysler's manufacturing genius's mess was to remove the oxygen sensor from the down pipe and re-route it away from the cable. I couldn't get the connector un-plugged, so I had to GENTLY unscrew it, untangle and re-route the lead and hope I didn't damage anything. All seems to be well so far.

Second issue, and I haven't got an answer for this one, is that the cable presses against the upper cooler line. There were two options, let it rub on it, which is what the old one did, or route it between the cooler line and the trans. I didn't like that option as it would still rub on the line, but would be pushing it away from the trans, rather than towards it. I don't have a comfy fix for this one and will just watch it and see what happens.

Last edited by SoK66; 07-14-2011 at 07:03 AM.
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post #8 of 22 Old 07-15-2011, 12:08 AM
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This is a problem I have been worried about for some time and every time the shifter gets stubborn I think I am going to break that POS plastic part. This looks like a good fix but my question to you is. Are you completely satisfied with the product? I would think there could be simpler fix but this may be the best way to go.
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post #9 of 22 Old 07-15-2011, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, it's a quality mod all the way and eliminates a potentially hazardous defect in the JK design. OTOH, with some fiddling and ingenuity you can fashion a bolt-through retainer up in the console to keep the cable on at that end, and modify the t-case side bushing by slicing off the end of the clip, then use a washer & e-clip to keep it in place.
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post #10 of 22 Old 07-15-2011, 11:11 AM
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Great product for the strong arm JK Wheeler

Jason

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post #11 of 22 Old 08-25-2011, 10:26 AM
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AA cable

Just ordered mine

I feel very lucky I was not up in the hills or in mud when mine let go! This was a new issue to me. I have always tried to be gentle, but it still happened.

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post #12 of 22 Old 08-25-2011, 11:15 AM
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it's worth it, I just did mine 2 wks ago.

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post #13 of 22 Old 08-25-2011, 01:39 PM
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Has anyone had a "similar" issue with their automatic transmission shifter cable? There's some discussion going on elsewhere about that.
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post #14 of 22 Old 09-23-2011, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Meant to post something about a neat side effect of this install: I somehow have sway bar unlatch in 4hi, as well as 4lo. No idea why, but it works every time.
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-29-2011, 06:14 AM
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Thinking its about time to fix mine since its been fubared since Jeep Beach, of course this also means I might as well order my Tuffy Console as well....


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post #16 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 10:32 AM
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Does anyone know if this will work with the Tera 2 wheel low kit? I dont see why it wouldnt, but you never know

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post #17 of 22 Old 01-01-2012, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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No reason why it wouldn't if the kit doesn't change the end of the t-case shift rod. The supplied t-case lever is in a bit different orientation that the stock one, so might contact Tera and Advance Adapters to discuss.
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post #18 of 22 Old 10-29-2012, 08:52 PM
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I also have the Tera 2 low kit, has anyone yet have both of these installed?

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Last edited by RODICON; 10-29-2012 at 08:55 PM.
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post #19 of 22 Old 10-30-2012, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RODICON View Post
I also have the Tera 2 low kit, has anyone yet have both of these installed?
I asked the same question in another thread and was told that the 2 work together. Search may find that thread.

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post #20 of 22 Old 10-30-2012, 07:14 AM
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Thanks!

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post #21 of 22 Old 11-02-2012, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RODICON View Post
I also have the Tera 2 low kit, has anyone yet have both of these installed?
Why wouldn't it work!?

I installed mine during my rubicrawler install and love it. The piece of mind is worth the price of the cable

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post #22 of 22 Old 11-02-2012, 10:18 PM
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Just got my cable, will update after install on 2 low applications!

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