Rear D44 rebuild 2010 Rubi - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 05-15-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Rear D44 rebuild 2010 Rubi

Ok, bare with me this is my first write up. But I had seen a lot of useful stuff. Some very easy and some way beyond my level. I wanted to help and add something and maybe take away some of the mystery of the rear diff and setting it up. I think it is something more people could do if they knew what to do. So, This is me taking out my busted ring and pinion and installing the warrantied R&P.

(If you don't have shop air tools this is the time to find a way to loosen your pinion bolt.) First loosen your lug nuts on your tires. Then jack up your rear end and place jack stands under the axle towards the tires. Once that is done feel free to take the tires off and go ahead and get them out of the way.


(some of this my be done out of order depending on what tools you have and your means to get the pinion bolt off.)
From here I would drain your fluid. From the back it should be a 3/8 socket plug thingy on the bottom side.... I believe the right side. Then I removed the rear diff cover.


From here I prepped to take out the axle shafts. Begin with removing the 4 bolts on the inside near the outer axle housing.

Then the two bolts for the brake caliper. I set them aside with zip ties. It isn't good to let them hang by their hoses.

Remove the driveshaft's four bolts and then if you haven't already loosen and remove the pinion shaft nut (I call nut's, bolt's and bolt's, nut's.... bare with me.)


Then remove all the splatter shields and what not behind it to include the seal. I used a special tool but the concept is the same, you will be replacing it so whatever means is necessary.





While I was here I disconnected these sensors.

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post #2 of 27 Old 05-15-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Then you will have to take out this sensor from the back side and lift on the small tab and pull the cable at the same time. But be very careful it is a fragile tab and will break easily.


Then start to remove the carrier bolts. leave them threaded a little just in case it tries to just fall out. Sometimes it will be snug in there and you will have to pry it out.


Importantly, anything that comes off the right side.... stays on the right side. When the carrier comes out there will be shims and bearing races that may fall out. Try and grab on them and not let them fall and wonder off.



From there go back to your threaded side of the pinon and replace the nut on the end to protect the threads and to prevent any mushrooming. Use a dead blow mallet and beat the nut until the pinon breaks loose.

Remove the bolt and then removed the pinion, and the rear bearing.


Once everything is removed you will be left with these main parts.


Now go back and removed this sensor. The order of this is important. Especially when reinstalling!

Careful because this part is also fragile and is $80. I know... I put mine back in wrong.


I will post up more later. I have an early day tomorrow. Let me know if I missed anything or any questions you have. I will try to answer them to the best of my ability.

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post #3 of 27 Old 05-15-2011, 11:43 PM
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Very cool, looking forward to part 2.

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #4 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. From here it is good to replace your bearing especially if you have decent size chunks of metal that came out on your drain plug.
I use a "Cheese Cutter" and press to remove the bearing off the pinion shaft.

From this picture you would place it in the press and I like to place something hard between the press and pinion... then just press the bearing off.

Then remove the shim. Keep this shim. It is important.

When I worked at Ford we had a special tool that measured pinion depth. I have been told from several sources that Jeeps don't have this tool but 9 times out of 10 you won't have a problem with your depth. If you have a micrometer always clean, measure and label your shims.

Now on the carrier you can press off the bearing the same way. A shorter, less safe way to do it would be to use a die grinder and cut the bearing off. Be careful not to cut into the actual carrier itself. Stop short and use a chisel to finish the job if you are using this method.

From here remove this spacer.

Then the activating thing of a ma gigger whatcha ma call it. You can also removed the thin plate behind it with a firm pull. Remember what direction they come off.


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post #5 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Then begin to remove all your ring gear bolts. I removed and later install them in a star pattern as a practice of good habit.

before removing all the bolts I placed something to absorb impact if the ring gear just falls.

Then I put some bolt back about half way so I can hammer on them lightly and push the ring gear off.


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post #6 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'll try and finish up the write up after work today.

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post #7 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Remove the race's in the diff housing. I used a long punch and hammer.


The dealership didn't have a specific rebuild kit. But luckly, many aftermarket companies do. I got mine from superior. The carrier bearing and race will be the same size. The other two go for the pinion shaft. The larger of the two gets pressed on while the smaller one goes on the front side of the diff housing.


You can either use a tool like I have or use the old races to install the new ones.




With the new Ring gear I evenly finger tightened the bolts and then in a star pattern torqued the bolts down. 100 ft/lbs USE THREAD LOCK!!!

Then reassemble the carrier and press the bearings on.



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Last edited by MattPM0000; 03-05-2012 at 09:57 AM.
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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press each bearing on individually. Place them in the race don't just press the bearing on with out it or you can deform it or not fully seat it.



Now onto the pinion shaft. Place the shim you took off originally back on the new one and then place the bearing on top of that as the picture shows. Remember to use the race also when pressing it on.


Then add on your new crush sleeve. It doesn't press on just kinda hangs out there.


Place it in the differential housing as such.


Once it is in there then place the bearing on the other side.

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post #9 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Then add the splatter shield, pinion seal and pinion flange. Followed by the washer and pinion nut.






Then by whatever mean necessary tighten the pinion shaft nut to 20-40 in/lbs. Which means it takes that much force to rotate the pinion shaft.


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post #10 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Here is an important part. Now is the time to install your little axle locker switch sensor.



Now grab all your toys for your carrier. Shims, Race all that good stuff.


I like to use something kinda sticky but that won't mess up the fluid to make the shims stick to the sides of the walls to make putting the carrier in a little easier.


Then I also like to cant (aka tilt) the races a little bit to also help ease installing the carrier.


Use a dead blow, so you don't damage anything while influencing the carrier in it's place.


Left side


Right side.


Torque the carrier bearing cap bolts down to 80 ft/lbs

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post #11 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Time to measure back lash. Should be between .006 and .010. Make sure you check and measure in at least three different places.



If you haven't done this before you measure the movement by holding the pinion flange so it doesn't move. Then with your other hand measure the distance the ring gear moves from tooth to tooth or the slack. If it is too much you will have to adjust the shims on the left and right of the carrier.
If it is too tight then you need to add shim to the right and take equally from the left.
If it is too loose then you need to add shim to the left and take equally from the right.
Normally it is a one to one ratio. If your backlash is .001 either way take or add .001 from your shim size.
Again, Fords were very different and you almost always had to adjust a little but I guess Jeeps build their R&P to tighter specifications and if staying with stock then you should be pretty close. I stuck with Superior (as they warrantied my part) and the measurement was just right.

From here you check your wear pattern. This is how you tell if your pinion has the right depth. You should check both sides for by the book answer. But mostly the important part is the inside curve (concave?)



You want the wear to be pretty much centered. To do so hold the pinion flange firmly while rotating the carrier. It is a special compound that is used... gear marking compound... and you just rub it on the gear sets. Fairly easy stuff.

Reconnect your sensor by pushing the wires through the hole in the back left.


goes to this little thing, if you broke the tab earlier don't worry too much. I have been told that there is enough natural friction to keep it from popping out.


Everything all buttoned up.


Make sure you clean the mating surfaces of the diff and the diff cover.


Now just add your diff cover. There is no need to put excessive amounts of silicone sealant on it. Just a little is all that is needed. I like to rub it around to make sure I get good coverage.



Almost done.

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post #12 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Install your axles now.


You need to line up these bolts.


Tighten the 4 bolts that hold your axle in. 60 ft/lbs


Don't forget to install or connect your wheel speed sensor if you haven't done so.


Brakes are a good thing. 55 ft/lbs


Now put your wheels back on. And fill the differential with fluid. I believe it is like 2.35 quarts in the rear and I used I think 75w145 or something like that. Synthetic with added limited slip modifier.


Reattach your driveshaft. 15 ft/lbs
Then you should be good to rock and roll.

Make sure you go back and check your bolts make sure you didn't forget anything.

Let your diff soak in it's fluid for a little bit before going out with it. Then go drive it to a parking lot and do a few circles.

There is a break in period for new ring and pinions. You should pay attention to it.
Take a short trip out some where in town to get the rear diff up to temperature. Then let it cool down (going to a restaurant is a good idea). Do that a few times. Then from there you need to do a total of 500 miles before long highway trips or harsh driving. Then replace your fluid and you should be good to play.

Hope this helps a little.

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post #13 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 10:01 PM
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press each bearing on individually. Place them in the race don't just press the bearing on with out it or you can deform it or not fully seat it.
Great right up!

Also take care not to press it on too far. I didn't think it was possible but I did it on my front rubi locker and couldn't get the magnet to spin independant of the carrier and thus broke the stupid plast piece off the magnet housing. That was several months ago and I still can't afford a new front locker.

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post #14 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 10:26 PM
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Dude, please do not take this the wrong way I'm just trying to help. You installed an R&P but did not set them up. If you drive like that they will eat themselves up in a few hundred miles. If you don't believe me check your gear dope in a 100 miles it will be filled with metal shavings.

Please see page 14. Your pinion is to far away.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech//billavist...structions.pdf

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.....a dark forum, were people would sometimes be rude but yet be helpful.
JK 2dr rubi
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post #15 of 27 Old 05-16-2011, 10:38 PM
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1. Do not install your seals till the R&P set up is finalized.

2. Install the pinion temporary to the proper torque and install/shim carrier to get back lash within spec.

3. Check pattern. (it will be wrong)

4. Remove all and adjust pinion depth accordingly. (any change in pinion depth will change how you have to shim the carrier to achieve the proper back lash)

5. Repeat step 3 and 4 till the pattern is dead nuts on. This will take hours by that I mean most of a day. (Keep moving the pinion one way till you go to far then back off 1/2 of the last adjustment.)

6. When you KNOW you have the right amount of shims for this set of R&P then you install the whole thing with seals. (each one is different... even if same manufacturer and same ratio....they will all be different)

7. After that check one more time before bolting on cover and pouring in fluid.


Note: You need a micrometer or caliper that will measure down to one thousandth of an inch.
.001" A human hair is .0025" Usually you need to be within .005" to have the pattern correct. The whole pile of various thickness shims in the master rebuilds kit you got....well this is what they are for.

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.....a dark forum, were people would sometimes be rude but yet be helpful.
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Last edited by toymaster; 05-16-2011 at 10:54 PM.
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post #16 of 27 Old 05-17-2011, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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1. Do not install your seals till the R&P set up is finalized.

2. Install the pinion temporary to the proper torque and install/shim carrier to get back lash within spec.

3. Check pattern. (it will be wrong)

4. Remove all and adjust pinion depth accordingly. (any change in pinion depth will change how you have to shim the carrier to achieve the proper back lash)

5. Repeat step 3 and 4 till the pattern is dead nuts on. This will take hours by that I mean most of a day. (Keep moving the pinion one way till you go to far then back off 1/2 of the last adjustment.)

6. When you KNOW you have the right amount of shims for this set of R&P then you install the whole thing with seals. (each one is different... even if same manufacturer and same ratio....they will all be different)

7. After that check one more time before bolting on cover and pouring in fluid.


Note: You need a micrometer or caliper that will measure down to one thousandth of an inch.
.001" A human hair is .0025" Usually you need to be within .005" to have the pattern correct. The whole pile of various thickness shims in the master rebuilds kit you got....well this is what they are for.
You are right that I did not fully set up my pinion depth dead on. However, I am fairly close. And all my other measurements are within spec. I believe where I am at shouldn't eat up the gears. But if I am wrong I'll sadly admit it later. Lol. I did use a micrometer, I believe I even mentioned it earlier to measure and take note of shim sizes. Also, if you read on page 16 of your link I think it gives a much better explanation of how it should be set up. It also says there should be a space between the face and must have a space from the flank. Also my wear pattern is centered and in all my two years of mechanic school (not UTI or Wyotech or any scam school like that) and years working as a transmission and drivetrain specialist never have I seen it acceptable to have your wear pattern so far on the heel or toe as it suggests on page 14. I do suggest others to follow the steps you have said to make sure you do get to the right depth. I only hinted at it but you broke it down. Sorry to sound so defensive, I naturally am. But just as long as it helps someone else I'm fine with being proven wrong.

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post #17 of 27 Old 05-17-2011, 06:19 AM
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Hey man, good job on doing the write up. Someone could def. use this, and whatever instructions they have and it would make things alot easier.

As far as setting up the gears, I trust that you know what your doing enough to mess with your own junk, and someone paid you to do it for a living. Someone who's never done a gearset before shouldn't attempt it solo the first time anyway. and they should pay darn good attention to whoever is helping them.

Thanks for doing this. I was gonna when I did mine, but I ended up wrenching, drinking beer, throwing tools...etc. ended up a weekend job. lol. Good work.

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post #18 of 27 Old 05-17-2011, 07:21 AM
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You are right that I did not fully set up my pinion depth dead on. However, I am fairly close. And all my other measurements are within spec. I believe where I am at shouldn't eat up the gears. But if I am wrong I'll sadly admit it later. .......... Also my wear pattern is centered and in all my two years of mechanic school ......I do suggest others to follow the steps ......Sorry to sound so defensive, I naturally am. But just as long as it helps someone else I'm fine with being proven wrong.

Dude, like I said I was trying to help. Sorry that your entire 2 years training tells you different. You are the one that will be paying someone to properly set them up very soon because the wear pattern is not centered The back lash is secondary to proper tooth contact. Check your diff for gray sludge....

Oh yeah, add a zero to the right of your number and you'll be closer to where I am



Edit: If you don't believe me post that pic over on pirate to get a second opinion.

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.....a dark forum, were people would sometimes be rude but yet be helpful.
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Last edited by toymaster; 05-17-2011 at 07:27 AM.
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post #19 of 27 Old 05-17-2011, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Dude, like I said I was trying to help. Sorry that your entire 2 years training tells you different. You are the one that will be paying someone to properly set them up very soon because the wear pattern is not centered The back lash is secondary to proper tooth contact. Check your diff for gray sludge....

Oh yeah, add a zero to the right of your number and you'll be closer to where I am



Edit: If you don't believe me post that pic over on pirate to get a second opinion.
You went to school for twenty years? Just messing, I know what you meant. But like I said, if it does fail on me I'll come back and say it did and admit my fault.
Take away: If you don't have time to do it right the first time when will you have time to do it the second?

I do thank you for your input, honestly.

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post #20 of 27 Old 05-18-2011, 03:22 PM
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Just additional information, I really like Poly's ring & pinion install instructions and their setup sheet included but the additional pictures in all the applicable threads went a long way to help me.
http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...RONT-GEARS.pdf
http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...REAR-GEARS.pdf

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post #21 of 27 Old 05-18-2011, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Just additional information, I really like Poly's ring & pinion install instructions and their setup sheet included but the additional pictures in all the applicable threads went a long way to help me.
http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...RONT-GEARS.pdf
http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...REAR-GEARS.pdf

Mike
Wow, yeah, that is good information.

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post #22 of 27 Old 07-03-2011, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Just thought I would follow up. It has been a few thousand miles since the rebuild and no issues. When I replaced my fluid there were no chunks or anything abnormal. It's driving great.

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post #23 of 27 Old 07-03-2011, 07:48 PM
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Great write up. Thanks for taking the time. Glad to hear all is well.
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-19-2011, 08:47 AM
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great write up. one thing i didn't get clear.
"Then by whatever mean necessary tighten the pinion shaft nut to 20-40 in/lbs. Which means it takes that much force to rotate the pinion shaft. "
do you mean that the pinion nut takes 200 to 400 ft lbs to tighten the crush sleeve up and 20 to 40 inch lbs on the pinion shaft.

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post #25 of 27 Old 03-05-2012, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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If you see the picture I have a prybar with a cheater bar, I had to step on the bar to get it to move.

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