GenRight Aluminum Fender Install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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GenRight Aluminum Fender Install

This covers the basics for installing the GenRight Aluminum front and rear fenders. There are several steps that are open to interpretation.

1. Remove your old fenders. I have seen writeups on this on the web already so I will not cover it again in depth. There are some bolts under the front fenders and some plastic body rivets that will need to be removed. Then pull up and back on the fenders. They will make a horrible breaking sound but they should be fine. the rear fenders are held on with plastic body rivets and will need to be cut or pried out. Then pull up and back like the front fenders. It will make the same noise as the front but should be OK.



Set the fenders aside. You will need to cut the liners out of the front later.


2. Remove all of the plastic clips from the mounting holes.



3. Test fit the fenders to make sure everything is straight and the holes appear to line up underneath. You will need to insert the nutserts into the body holes. On the first one I marked all of the holes with tape to make sure I did not put a nutsert into the wrong location. They provide a bolt with a nut and two spacers to help tighten the nutsert down.


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post #2 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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4. Install the nutserts into the body. They will take some pressure to force then in. There is one hole that will not be used in the front and two in the back. You can hold the back of the nutsert with a pair of pliers while you tighten down the nut using the supplied bolt.
The Top center nuts will require you to pull the body slightly away from the inner body structure in order get them to seat all the way in. If you try to tighten them down without pulling out the body the nutsert will just twist instead of expand. You will also need to add spacers to the bolt because it is longer than the space provided.




5. Once all of the nutserts are installed you can install the front fenders. Coat the mount between the body and the fender with clear silicone. (This is recommended but not required) Start with the two top center bolts then work around the fender using the Allen head screws to hold them down. A bolt was not provided for the fender brace.




Painted and installed with the fender liners.


2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage

Last edited by carbonunit; 04-03-2011 at 04:39 PM. Reason: added pics
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post #3 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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6. The rear fenders do not allow you to hold the nutserts from the back with pliers so you will need to hold them from the front. I used vice grips. Once the nutsert starts to compress it requires very little force to hold it. Edit a better suggestion to hold the bots was provided. This sounds easier to set the nutserts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlMan View Post
Comment regarding the nutsert installation. You do not need the vise grips. The way I did mine was to put the two spacers between the oversize nut and the head of the bolt. This will allow you to use a 1/2 inch open end wrench to hold the nut and use your ratchet wrench to tighten the bolt. I also have a nutsert installation tool (HF), but it did not work as nicely as the supplied bolt worked.




7. You do not insert nutserts into the front top corner and into the bottom rear corner. You will need to drill a new hole in the body to install the bottom rear nutsert. Once you have all of them in you can test fit your fender and mark the final hole in the bottom rear corner show here with a black dot.



use an 11/32 bit to drill the final hole.


8. Install the final nutsert on each rear corner.

9. Install the rear fenders the same way as the front by coating the body mout surface with clear silicone and then inserting the top two Allen bolts first. you may need to push the fender out or in a little to get the holes lined up.


Painted and installed.






I was going to leave the rear liners out but I think I will put a portion of them back in to keep some of the mud out.

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage

Last edited by carbonunit; 04-03-2011 at 04:44 PM.
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post #4 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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10. The final step is to cut the front fender liners and install them. The front fenders do not need to be taken apart first but you will need to cut the well liner away from the support on the original fender. You will end up with two parts that will need to be bolted back together. I used 1/4" x 3/4" bolts to hold them together.

You will need to cut the liner straight down in front of the mounting hole and straight back to the thinnest portion of the liner. The body brace will need to be cut about 1/2" up from where it curves up from under the body.





11. Bolt the two sections together using new bolts and washers or plastic body rivets. After they are bolter together you can use four of the original bolts and one original plastic nut to bolt the liner back onto the vehicle. Make sure the liner does not go up the side of the body past the raised ridge.



Installed with the fender in place.


Here they are painted body color for now. I have to wait to see how it will look in the sunlight before I know if I will keep them this color.




2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage

Last edited by carbonunit; 04-03-2011 at 04:49 PM. Reason: added pics
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post #5 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 10:40 PM
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nice write up. those do look nice. any finished pics?

Mike M

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MC 2.5", Fox RR TF tuned shocks, TF carrier, Viair, TL's and so on...... still on stock tires
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post #6 of 50 Old 03-10-2011, 11:36 PM
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Great write-up! The fenders look awesome too!

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yeah...I decided to go and finish on the tree
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post #7 of 50 Old 03-11-2011, 05:54 AM
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I'm really diggin' GenRight accessories, right now.
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post #8 of 50 Old 03-11-2011, 07:04 AM
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I am no metalurg ........ meteorolo ......... I don't know everything about metal, but will these alum. fenders not have the same issues with corrosion as the alum. hinges have against the steel doors?
Maybe use some sort of fender beading, like used on air-cooled VW fenders, to seperate the body from the fenders??
Or is this a non-issue?

I like the look of these, and the weight saving with the aluminum, but wonder about corrosion issues........




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post #9 of 50 Old 03-11-2011, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty View Post
nice write up. those do look nice. any finished pics?
Thanks. I am painting them this weekend. so I should have a finished pic next week. I am still waiting for my tires (three more weeks) so I will only have jackstand shots for now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty5vdub View Post
I am no metalurg ........ meteorolo ......... I don't know everything about metal, but will these alum. fenders not have the same issues with corrosion as the alum. hinges have against the steel doors?
Maybe use some sort of fender beading, like used on air-cooled VW fenders, to seperate the body from the fenders??
Or is this a non-issue?

I like the look of these, and the weight saving with the aluminum, but wonder about corrosion issues........

Anthony
I am hoping that by painting them and putting a bead of silicone between the fender and the body that it will not remove paint or cause any issues. Although I do expect to remove paint on a few rocks scattered throughout the western states.

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage
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post #10 of 50 Old 03-12-2011, 08:51 AM
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are you waiting for the GY back order like the others? i'm really liking those fenders and bumpers.

Mike M

2013 2dr rubi
MC 2.5", Fox RR TF tuned shocks, TF carrier, Viair, TL's and so on...... still on stock tires
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post #11 of 50 Old 03-12-2011, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty View Post
are you waiting for the GY back order like the others? i'm really liking those fenders and bumpers.
Not entirely. I am the high bidder on a BRC auction on ebay from December. Originally BFG was going to ship my tires after Jan 1 so I sold my tires and wheels around Jan 15th assuming I would have the new ones around then. (My mistake) Then they were back ordered and BRC offered my money back. I decided to wait but now it is an April 1st ETA. I was going to back out and go GY just to have some tires but as you mentioned they are back ordered as well so I am stuck on jack-stands for three months. Hopefully they will ship something soon.

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post #12 of 50 Old 03-15-2011, 09:16 AM
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so the stock front fender support doesn't do anything?

on the front fenders where the nutzert hits the unibody, why not drill a pilot hole for the nutzert to fit into?

They look great by the way..First good front fender shot I've seen and been looking for.

Current project jeep 08' wrangler 2dr
Past jeep:
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- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #13 of 50 Old 03-17-2011, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fourplyn View Post
so the stock front fender support doesn't do anything?

on the front fenders where the nutzert hits the unibody, why not drill a pilot hole for the nutzert to fit into?

They look great by the way..First good front fender shot I've seen and been looking for.
I thought about drilling a hole but It worked without one. I would like to see a little support between the body and subframe or a tie in to the subframe. Once they are bolted on they feel pretty sturdy but a rock could tear them upwards. Downwards or inwards seems less likely but possible.

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage
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Originally Posted by carbonunit View Post
I thought about drilling a hole but It worked without one. I would like to see a little support between the body and subframe or a tie in to the subframe. Once they are bolted on they feel pretty sturdy but a rock could tear them upwards. Downwards or inwards seems less likely but possible.
call up Poison Spyder get Dusty to sell you the inner bracing from there's.

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- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #15 of 50 Old 03-23-2011, 07:44 AM
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Comment regarding the nutsert installation. You do not need the vise grips. The way I did mine was to put the two spacers between the oversize nut and the head of the bolt. This will allow you to use a 1/2 inch open end wrench to hold the nut and use your ratchet wrench to tighten the bolt. I also have a nutsert installation tool (HF), but it did not work as nicely as the supplied bolt worked.

Thanks for your write-up.

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86ish Formula Toyota
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post #16 of 50 Old 03-24-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlMan View Post
Comment regarding the nutsert installation. You do not need the vise grips. The way I did mine was to put the two spacers between the oversize nut and the head of the bolt. This will allow you to use a 1/2 inch open end wrench to hold the nut and use your ratchet wrench to tighten the bolt. I also have a nutsert installation tool (HF), but it did not work as nicely as the supplied bolt worked.

Thanks for your write-up.
Good information. I did not try that although I did use the spacers and nut but I had the spacers in the wrong location. The vice grips did chew the edges a bit but worked. thanks for the tip. I will add it into the write-up.

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage
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post #17 of 50 Old 03-25-2011, 08:15 AM
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The way I handled the fenders and inner plastic was to use a putty knife. First I sharpened the putty knife on a grinder and then used it and a hammer to cut all the plastic push-in screws. I then pulled on the fenders as suggested; and the big noise it makes when pulling off. Then removed the inners. I used the putty knife to then remove the plastic body pieces.

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post #18 of 50 Old 03-25-2011, 09:37 AM
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carbonunit, any concerns on how the aluminum will hold up to punishment? I absolutely like the idea of light weight protection but there's always a trade off isn't there.
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post #19 of 50 Old 03-26-2011, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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carbonunit, any concerns on how the aluminum will hold up to punishment? I absolutely like the idea of light weight protection but there's always a trade off isn't there.
I am concerned a little. I read a lot of arguments either way. I did have some rash on my old fenders so I know these will get used as a pivot point and will take some abuse. I believe it will gouge and need to be repainted but they feel pretty stout. With a big enough hit it will bend but so will anything including the stock flenders. I am not that worried about dents in the body caused by the fenders. I really have no opinion yet as my junk is still on blocks waiting for tires. I guess ultimately I am willing to risk potential body damage for the added clearance.

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage
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I think these fenders will surprise you. I believe the inner bracing will help immensely. Its not like Gen Right builds butter. They built these for a reason..I'm curious as hell to see how these preform off road.

Current project jeep 08' wrangler 2dr
Past jeep:
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #21 of 50 Old 03-26-2011, 08:39 AM
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Looks great - what finish (primer/paint) did you put on them?
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post #22 of 50 Old 03-26-2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubirobv View Post
carbonunit, any concerns on how the aluminum will hold up to punishment? I absolutely like the idea of light weight protection but there's always a trade off isn't there.
I've got an aluminum front bumper from Aberle. I pounded the hell out of that thing in Hot Springs, and it's got nothing but a few scrapes. I'm convinced aluminum can hold up quite well in the rocks.

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post #23 of 50 Old 03-26-2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Looks great - what finish (primer/paint) did you put on them?
I roughed up the surface with a scotch bright pad and put down a self etching primer. Then I put down two coats of regular primer. After that I sprayed them with a body color auto paint (Yes I know black is the standard) On top of that I put on three coats of clear.

The bad news is the last coat of clear was too dry and caused an orange peel. Before that the color was perfect and after it was a little too light. Too dark would have been fine but too light was not right. I sanded them but cut through the clear and when I started to spray them again I reactivated the original coat and most of the paint wrinkled. It was my first real paint job and I really effed them up.

I had to let the base set then sand / primer and now the weather looks good enough to try it one more time next weekend. If I fail this time I am going duplicolor flat black.

I will post a finished pick once they are covered.

On a side note I am not really concerned with touch up paint so body color does not bother me. I have never touched up any of the flat black I have and the fenders wont rust so....

2K8 Rubicon SWB
4" Terraflex with uppers and lowers / MX6 shocks /37" BFG KM2's /17x9.5 4" BS Raceline Monster Beadlocks / Dynatrac Front housing / 4:88's / RCV Shafts /Superior Evolution Rear Shafts / Genright ALUM Front bumper and Fenders / LoD Rear with Racks / OffRoad Evo Sliders /Or-Fab Cage
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post #24 of 50 Old 03-27-2011, 06:39 AM
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Wow - impressive finishing sequence. I have the Nemesis flares just waiting to be installed. I was figuring on self-etching primer and rattle can flat black or bedliner. I know prep is the key with aluminum...

Looking forward to pics!
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post #25 of 50 Old 03-27-2011, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonunit View Post
I roughed up the surface with a scotch bright pad and put down a self etching primer. Then I put down two coats of regular primer. After that I sprayed them with a body color auto paint (Yes I know black is the standard) On top of that I put on three coats of clear.

The bad news is the last coat of clear was too dry and caused an orange peel. Before that the color was perfect and after it was a little too light. Too dark would have been fine but too light was not right. I sanded them but cut through the clear and when I started to spray them again I reactivated the original coat and most of the paint wrinkled. It was my first real paint job and I really effed them up.

I had to let the base set then sand / primer and now the weather looks good enough to try it one more time next weekend. If I fail this time I am going duplicolor flat black.

I will post a finished pick once they are covered.

On a side note I am not really concerned with touch up paint so body color does not bother me. I have never touched up any of the flat black I have and the fenders wont rust so....
What kind of base coat and then clear coat are you using.?

Current project jeep 08' wrangler 2dr
Past jeep:
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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