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post #1 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Sandblasting, Powdercoating & Offroad Hitches

One of life’s painful lessons is committing to something and then discovering you should have chosen differently. I think we have all been there a time or two. My little tale starts with my wife. Wait… its not what you think. You see, 28-years ago, I married a truly amazing woman. Things were great when we started out, and they have become exponentially better over the years. Earlier this year I began giving some thought to what I might get her for Christmas. She loves hiking, and camping. So I set about determining what I might do that would involve her “likes”. I was drawing a blank until one day, while perusing ebay, I came across someone selling a Tentrax offroad camper.



Bingo! She & I love to go offroading, and if I could couple that with her love of camping it would be the perfect gift. I began bidding on the camper. My newly formed plan to acquire her Christmas gift was moving towards fruition when a few days later she found me in the Man Cave about to bid $3,000 on an $11,000 camper that had never once been used. Before I could casually hide what I was doing she saw it and told me, “I had better not be trying to buy something like that until we had new flooring”. DAM, I hate it when reality enters my world. I reluctantly agreed and had to watch as someone else got the deal of a lifetime. Ultimately the camper was purchased for a mere $4,000.

I was not deterred, just slowed down. I began quietly seeking a similar opportunity. Several weeks later, once again on ebay, I found a VentureCraft TrailBlazer offroad camper. I discovered an auction, which had ended without the reserve being met. I sent the seller an inquiry and discovered he still had the camper and was interested in selling it. He made me an attractive offer.





Unfortunately, I had to deal with a number of issues. We have two sons in college and their fees had just come due. After paying their tuition I no longer had readily available funds. I began quietly moving money around till I came up with the necessary cash. Next I had to deal with another issue. The trailer was in Virginia and I am in Kansas. I made a few calls and arranged for a coworker, back East, to pick up the camper and keep it at his place until I could figure out what I was going to do. Not only did he pick it up but he also found me reasonably inexpensive transport to get it to my town where I then hid it at a friend’s house.

It is pertinent to this story that you know the friend’s house, where I was hiding the camper, has a fully equipped garage with radiant heating in the floor (very nice in the winter). He builds custom cars for a living, and he has a serious “Tool Habit”. He loves tools and has nearly every tool known to man. Additionally he builds, reconditions and sells Superchargers to people all over the globe. He would be an incredible mentor if he could tolerate having people underfoot. He has always worked alone. For some crazy reason he puts up with me and teaches me whatever I want to know. YES, it is awesome to have a friend like him.

Okay, so with the camper at my friend’s place, I start visiting his garage every few days. My wife began laboring under the belief I was assisting my friend with several of his projects. I never told her that, but I haven’t corrected her either. She has been pleased I have been enjoying myself while learning new skills.

SANDBLASTING – Cool, Boring yet Satisfying

I began determining what I wanted to do with the camper. I decided that when Spring arrived I would paint it to match my Detonator Yellow 08 Rubicon Unlimited. With the painting figured out I started examining the camper and quickly realized that with a white or yellow camper I didn’t particularly like all the external hardware fittings being either dull aluminum or chrome. I decided that all fittings should be black. This left me with a problem and an opportunity. If I wanted everything to become black I was going to have to remove everything and sandblast the pieces prior to having them powder coated black.

I mentioned to my friend that I was going to remove all the hardware on the camper and take it all to be sandblasted. He told me that in the back corner of his garage he had a sandblasting cabinet. A sandblasting cabinet is a relatively simple device. It is essentially a box with an internal light source, a viewing window, and two holes for your hands/arms. Quite often the holes have permanently affixed gloves like you see on a baby incubator. Here are some photos of a relatively inexpensive (~$300) Sandblasting box. Harbor Freight has a Sandblasting Cabinet like this on sale starting January 1st, 2011 for $199.99.









You will also need an excellent air supply. Beyond that you don’t need a whole lot more. If you don’t feel like buying a sandblasting cabinet you can build one fairly easily. All that is required is a sealable box large enough to hold whatever you wish to work on. It must have a pressurized air line in it as well as a media (sand blasting material such as glass beads, walnut shells, sand, etc…) supply line. It must also have a grate in the bottom to allow the blasting media to drop out, be recollected and fed back into the cabinet. Finally, you will also need a light and a viewing window. Keep in mind that you can buy a commercial unit such as the one displayed in the previous photos for less than $300.

Before going any further I should state that if you are going to be sandblasting fairly delicate parts you should carefully experiment to make sure you don’t over blast, and hurt, the parts. You can pit, or scar, metal without too much trouble. Practice will really help. I should also state while sand blasting is relatively easy it can also be somewhat tedious. However, stick with it because the results can be amazing. I used very small grain glass beads for my sand blasting. They are inexpensive, easy to work with, and don’t tend to hurt smaller pieces such as the aluminum parts I was blasting. Here are some “before and after” sandblasting pictures where I then went on to powder coat the pieces in satin black (more on that a little later).






2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •

Last edited by Hemo; 01-03-2011 at 07:49 PM.
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Lets look at a specific example of a piece “before & after” it is sandblasted. The piece in question is a 2” x 2” Receiver Extension that will be needed on the tongue of the camper.









Please note that in the picture of the newly sandblasted 2”x2” Receiver Tube I have committed a faux pas. My friend is hanging it in the oven to preheat it prior to powder coating (this is a required step due to its large size). The faux pas is you can see my fingerprints. Normally this wouldn’t be a big issue but if you are preparing for powder coating then you need to keep surfaces clean and oil free.

I had to sandblast several large items such as the rear bumper on the camper as well as the three skid plates that protect the underside of the offroad camper. When the items you wish to clean are large you will most likely need to utilize a non-enclosed blaster. This is typically where most people will want, or need, to go to a professional. It takes a lot of room and is seriously messy to perform non-enclosed sandblasting. This sort of sandblasting is typically done at higher pressures and with coarser sandblasting media. I did this in preparation for double powder coating those parts o give them an extra strong protective coating.

Okay, let’s take a look at powder coating. In most respects this is easier than sandblasting. Anyone can learn to powder coat.



The Whats, Whys & Hows of Powder Coating



Let's start with the WHATS? Powder Coating has been around for about 50 years. It was developed when they found a formulation for a finely ground "plastic" powder. That was the beginning of the powder coating industry. 


The process of powder coating is done by first cleaning the part to a dry, bare metal surface, a special electrostatic spray gun with 30,000 to 90,000 volts, is used to apply a thin layer of "plastic" powder onto the surface of the part to be coated. The powder may be a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer. The powder is held onto the part by static electricity. Kind of like dust on a TV. Once coated, the part is oven baked at approximately 400 degrees Fahrenheit. The curing oven melts the dry powder to a "gel state" and then further curing causes this gel to harden into a very tough "plastic" coating. This flowing and fusing of the coating in the final curing oven creates a continuous coating which is very hard and has no porosity. 



Now for the WHY? Powder Coating does not use solvents, there are no toxic chemicals released into the air, thus EPA regulation do not add expense to this process. Also, for about the same cost as professionally applied paint, powder coating offers a superior finish combined with an excellent durability that will extend the life of the part. It is particularly beneficial for parts exposed to harsher conditions such as moisture and chemicals. Powder coating does not fade and is very chip and crack resistant, flexible, and can be applied to all metals.

The first question many folks ask is how powder coating sticks to something since it is dry. It adheres due to an electrical attraction. This occurs because the parts you wish to powder coat are hung on a metal rod in the spray box. The metal rod has a negative charge running through it. The powder coat is then applied through a special air gun, which has a positive charge running through it. This causes the powder coat particles to be attracted towards the negatively charged part where they immediately cling to the part.

Now for the HOW? It does not require much space or money to perform powder coating. It takes a small amount of electronics, a special powder-coating gun, a bottle of powder coat, and a powder-coating chamber. As you can see in the following pictures, I have created the lowest cost powder-coating setup possible. I purchased the powder coating electronics from Harbor Freight for $60. That price also includes the powder coat spray gun. I also bought a container of black powder-coat from Harbor Freight for just $4. I created my powder-coating chamber from an empty cardboard box and I used a copper plumbing pipe as my negatively charged metal rod. My total cost was $65. I plan to build a Masonite chamber after the start of the year.










2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #3 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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To start out, connect a lead from the electronics to the metal rod in your powder-coating chamber. Then take bare metal wire using it to create a hanger/hook to suspend your clean metal parts on the charged metal rod. If you have fairly large, or thick, parts you will need to put it in the oven and pre-heat them before powder-coating. The pre-heating is done to ensure the parts will quickly reach 400 degrees F when placed in the oven after being powder-coated.

Now connect a lead from the electronics to the powder-coating spray gun. This will cause ionized powder-coat particles to be blown out of the gun where they will electrostatically adhere to the parts hanging on the charged metal rod. Here are a couple pictures of what this looks like. Please note that if you get the spray gun too close to the parts you will cause an electric arc to jump the gap between them. Avoid doing that.







Once the parts have been powder-coated they must be carefully moved from the powder-coating chamber to the oven. It is critical that you do not touch, or accidentally brush against, the parts while you move them. The slightest touch will remove the powder coat, which is only held on the metal by a weak ionic bond. I see people who appear to have an easy time moving parts without touching them. I am not one of them. If you are dexterily-challenged like me then you might want to take some precautions. I avoid touching coated parts by using a pair of pliers, rather than my fingers, to grasp a part’s wire. I lift parts off of the negative rod (copper pipe in my setup) and carefully walk them about three feet to where I hang them in the 400 degree pre-heated oven.

You can powder coat items of any size, assuming you have a spray-chamber and oven of sufficient size. Most people will have limits on the size of items they can powder coat due to the size of the oven they have. As seen here, my friend’s oven came out of a grocery store that was being torn down. He got it for free and it allows him to powder coat items up to the size of a couple of toasters (sorry, I couldn’t think what else to use as a common reference).






The only requirement for a powder-coating oven is that it needs to be able to sustain a heat of 400 degrees for 20 minutes. I have seen a lot of personal powder coating that takes place in ordinary home ovens, which have been moved into garages. This may seem obvious but it is extremely important to use care when removing parts from the oven, especially if they are larger parts (they will hold heat for a long time). I have found an infrared temperature gun to be a fantastic tool. They can be bought for less than $40 and can save you from a serious burn. This is especially true after you have removed parts from the oven but aren’t sure how hot they might still be.





Here are some samples of the parts I powder-coated during the process of cleaning up the camper…

2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #4 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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HITCHES – HITCHES - HITCHES

In the process of purchasing the camper I commented to the previous owner that I was going to need to find a Pintle & Lunette since the Ball hitch wasn’t going to work for off-road use.


2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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He informed me that I did not want to use a Pintle & Lunette since they are very loud & clunky. He pointed out all the clunking is really lost energy and shows up in the form of frayed nerves and poor gas mileage. He suggested a company by the name of Lock-N-Roll (http://www.locknroll.com/index.aspx). He told me about their unusual hitch that allows movement in numerous directions. He said he was planning on purchasing one prior to deciding to sell the trailer. I visited their web site and found the limited pictures to be interesting but there really wasn’t sufficient info to answer the questions I had. So I called the folks at Lock-N-Roll who were quite nice & patient. They explained all about their unique hitch system. The descriptions sounded intriguing and I found myself ordering one shortly thereafter. The hitch system showed up about a week later. I was surprised at the weight. It is BIG and SOLID. Actually, that is an understatement. You quickly get the feeling, based on weight, you got your money’s worth. It is a very unusual design and I was looking forward to installing it. Unfortunately a number of other projects got in the way.

Fast-forward a couple months. I was aimlessly looking through various Jeep-related browser links on my computer. I have thousands of links associated with Four Wheeling, Jeep equipment, Trails, etc… As I was looking through my links I decided to look at Kilby Enterprises (http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/). I wondered if they had finished going out of business. I had always liked their products and was always impressed by how often Brad Kilby’s name showed up in association with various Jeep events. I went to Kilby’s site and when it loaded I immediately noticed it was under new management. There was a link at the top of the page that said to click there to discover the latest news. It jumped me to a page and THERE IT WAS! It was a vision! It was “THE MAX COUPLER”.



I was immediately struck by the thought it was superior to hitch I had already purchased. I found myself staring at what appeared to be an incredibly well designed off-road trailer hitch. The more I stared at it the more certain I was that this was the hitch I should have bought.

As I muttered a number of expletives to myself regarding missed opportunities I called Kilby Enterprises to order a few air fittings from them. The secretary told me she needed to put me on hold and that she would get someone to take my order. A pleasant gentleman came on the phone and took my order. He said he was pretty certain he had most of the items but wasn’t sure about a few of them. He said he was still trying to get a handle on his inventory. I immediately inquired if he was the new owner, which he was. I spoke with him for a few minutes and was quickly struck by his passion for the new business. I casually mentioned that I wish I had known a month or so earlier about him. When he asked me why I told him I was highly enamored with the Max Coupler. He informed me he was the designer of it. I congratulated him on a fantastic design. He asked me again why it mattered that I hadn’t seen it a month earlier. I said I had bought a different off-road hitch. It turned out he was familiar with the hitch I purchased.

To make a long story short, after listening to him for a while I became excited about how much effort, time & passion went into the design of the Max Coupler. I knew I had to buy it, and I did!

When the Max Coupler arrived I tore into the box. The first instant I held it in my hands I knew I had made the right decision. The design is outstanding. Here are some images to help you get a better feel for it.










2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #6 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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While the Lock-N-Roll is likely a decent product there is no question in my mind that the design and operation of the Max Coupler are superior. Here are images of the Lock N Roll.












2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #7 of 25 Old 12-29-2010, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to stress that the things I have been writing are my beliefs. I leave it up to all of you to draw your own conclusions. For all of you who are considering the acquisition of an off-road camper I hope this information might help you to make appropriate decisions right from the start. Here are images of both systems together.






There are two areas where the differences between the two hitches are easy to see. The first area is the overall size and weight. The Max Coupler is significantly smaller and lighter yet has a 6000pound rating. The second area is the fit and finish. The Max Coupler has a very polished appearance where the Lock N Roll has much more of a rough appearance.






While I was writing this I paid a visit to Expedition Portal and noticed they are talking very positively about the Max Coupler where they used to talk about the Lock N Roll. I have also noticed that one of our sponsors, Sierra 4X4 promotes the Max Coupler (http://www.sierra4x4trailers.com/). I also noticed that Adventure Trailers is now promoting the Max Coupler.



The final thing I would like to say is that I am genuinely pleased that Kilby Enterprises has a new owner who not only loves off-roading but also has a passion for superior design work. It is a fitting transition for a great company. Best of all they remain a sponsor of JKOwners

.

2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •

Last edited by Hemo; 12-29-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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post #8 of 25 Old 12-30-2010, 01:03 PM
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Good write up...I've always wondered exactly how difficult it would be to blast and powder coat stuff instead of paying somebody to do it for me.

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post #9 of 25 Old 12-30-2010, 02:24 PM
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NICE ... bla bla bla...

Ok tell us the blower is going on something JEEP !!
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post #10 of 25 Old 12-30-2010, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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I wish the Blower was going on my Jeep but sadly that is not the case. My friend reconditions and sells Superchargers all over the world. He literally has dozens of them laying around his garage. I just assisted him a little in rebuilding his hot rod that has an 850 horsepower blown engine.

2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #11 of 25 Old 12-31-2010, 03:05 PM
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Great write ups!

R,

After reading through both the Sandblasting, Powder Coating and the Hitch Systems - I am amazed at how easy the powder coating process is for smaller parts like you were working with. It's good to see you not being intimidated by the challenge as evident by your end results.

Man it's night and day difference between those hitches...amazing that even with similar end results how the final product can very so much in appearance and finish.

Thank you for taking the time to draft this up for us JKO'ers. Keep up the good work buddy.

M

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post #12 of 25 Old 12-31-2010, 03:37 PM
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Very nice... answers questions that I didn't even know I had.

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post #13 of 25 Old 01-01-2011, 07:55 AM
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Those are some ugly welds on the lock and roll.
Nice write up!
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post #14 of 25 Old 01-01-2011, 08:21 AM
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This is a great write up but..... Wheres the end? Did you paint it to mach? How did your wife react when you gave it to her? I was looking for an end.

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post #15 of 25 Old 01-01-2011, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggwhite93 View Post
This is a great write up but..... Wheres the end? Did you paint it to mach? How did your wife react when you gave it to her? I was looking for an end.

"Why was there no end?"... My favorite quote I use at work applies in this case. There was no end because... "I'm Stupid". That quote sums up all the dumb stuff I do in life. Okay, let me finish this write up.

1) I will paint it to match RumbleBee, . our 08 Detonator Yellow Rubi Unlimited. It has it's own logo...




... Kenny Hauk of River Raider incorporated the name into my Roll Cage.




Since the Jeep is called RumbleBee she wants to name the Camper - "The Hive" and use a few more bee images on it...



The painting will occur sometime in the next couple months. I put all new bolts in the bottom so it is relatively easy to remove the Camper from the frame. The Camper will be yellow and the fender flares will be black.

2) My wife LOVED the gift. She was ecstatic. She said it was the best present I ever gave her. She was also super pleased because I spent so much time working on it and that made it special for her.

3) My original quote at the start of this write up... "One of life’s painful lessons is committing to something and then discovering you should have chosen differently." referred to my choice of the Lock-N-Roll and then discovering the Max Coupler.

4) I can't wait to try the camper out with her as soon as the Spring rolls around. "If the Camper is rocking then don't come a-knocking" .

2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •

Last edited by Hemo; 01-01-2011 at 09:12 AM.
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post #16 of 25 Old 01-01-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemo View Post
"Why was there no end?"... My favorite quote I use at work applies in this case. There was no end because... "I'm Stupid". That quote sums up all the dumb stuff I do in life. Okay, let me finish this write up.

1) I will paint it to match [B]...............

....................

The painting will occur sometime in the next couple months. I put all new bolts in the bottom so it is relatively easy to remove the Camper from the frame. The Camper will be yellow and the fender flares will be black.

2) My wife LOVED the gift. She was ecstatic. She said it was the best present I ever gave her. She was also super pleased because I spent so much time working on it and that made it special for her.

3) My original quote at the start of this write up... "One of life’s painful lessons is committing to something and then discovering you should have chosen differently." referred to my choice of the Lock-N-Roll and then discovering the Max Coupler.

4) I can't wait to try the camper out with her as soon as the Spring rolls around. "If the Camper is rocking then don't come a-knocking" .
Nice write-up and a great story too. I misread #4 as "I can't wait to try the camper with out her" and almost choked on my coffee lol.

........My other hobbies include: Older cars and trucks; Spending money on unfinished projects, and continuing to not finish them...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
For my money, the most notable part of this thread is all the fallout from bsack's fortune cookie factory explosion.
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post #17 of 25 Old 01-08-2011, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •
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post #18 of 25 Old 01-09-2011, 04:01 AM
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wow great write up..looks great .. ive always wanted to powder coat... now im gonna give it a try ! thanks
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post #19 of 25 Old 01-09-2011, 09:34 AM
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You get the 2011 award for the best write up ever. Enjoyed reading it.
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post #20 of 25 Old 01-09-2011, 10:13 AM
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Great Info!

And yes you can but the Max-coupler on my web sit for $25.00 cheap then other web sites.

We are:
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We also sell ARB 4x4 accessories, OR Fab, Trail Master Suspension, Rough Country suspension, Rock Krawler, Iron Rock Off Road, Rubicon Express, Rugged Ridge, Poly Performance, Trail Tools, Trailer DIY Parts including Tubs, and roof top tents
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post #21 of 25 Old 01-09-2011, 10:27 AM
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Great informational story. SUBSCRIBED. You have now convinced me to purchase the MAX COUPLER for my M416.

"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them." John Wayne - The Shootist


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post #22 of 25 Old 01-13-2011, 11:05 PM
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Very cool write up. Makes me want to go out and buy a sandblaster and poweder coating equipment! Where can we see more pics of your JK? I'm doing a cage and liked the pic of your RR cage.

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #23 of 25 Old 01-13-2011, 11:44 PM
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Pictures of the new flooring?

Great write-up.

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post #24 of 25 Old 01-19-2011, 08:20 PM
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Nice write up. I actually started doing parts for myself just like you and have turned it into a nice little business. It is like any other hobby though, it can start to get very expensive as you buy better guns, bigger ovens and blast cabinets.
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post #25 of 25 Old 01-19-2011, 10:55 PM
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That's very generous of you to take the time and effort to write such a complete and informational "how to", and it's wrapped in a great story. I too loved to learn about the blasting and coating. Thanks!
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