River Raider Air Tank+Vapor Canister Skid Plate - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 11-01-2010, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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River Raider Air Tank+Vapor Canister Skid Plate

I have known for some time that I really needed to protect my Vapor Canister (many folks call this the "Evap"). There are many excellent Evap Skids. I have friends with Evap-only skids from River Raider, Benchmark-Designs, Rock Hard 4x4, and many others. They are all good designs and each have their own strong points. I would have been happy with any of them. However, I plan on adding an onboard air system, which helped me quickly settle on River Raider's combination 2.5 Gallon Air Tank + Evap Skid.

Like all products built by River Raider this combination Skid is built like a tank. It is solid and definitely provides you with a great way to protect both an Air Tank and an Evap Canister. This Skid requires very few tools to install.

Lets start by taking a quick look at the Evap in its normal location.




Before you remove the Evap Canister take a moment to study the orientation of the Evap Sensor. The sensor is the white plastic piece with a hose going into it. The sensor also has an electric plug on one side of it. The orientation is critical because there is a gravity switch within it that is used by the vehicle to determine if a rollover has occurred, in which case it will shut certain things down. Failure to maintain the same orientation, after relocating the Evap Canister, will cause warning lights to appear on the dash.




Removing the Sensor is quite easy once you know what to do. On the bottom edge of the sensor is a tab, which needs to be gently bent back a small amount with a small flat blade screwdriver.




Here is a shot that shows the tab once the sensor has been removed.




Here is a quick shot of what your Evap Canister will now look like just prior to being removed and relocated.




Remove the other hose that is connected to the Evap Canister. The hose uses a somewhat unique connector that looks complicated but is rather easy to release. The connector has a small plate (catch) on opposite sides. A small screwdriver works well to depress the little catch. Make sure to have a small flashlight to help illuminate the connector so you can see what you're doing.

Okay, now it is time for the fun stuff. It is time to remove the Evap Canister and the mounting plate it is attached to. There are just three 16mm bolts holding the mounting plate onto your Jeep. Two bolts are at one end and a single bolt at the other. Here is a picture of the mounting plate and Evap removed from the Jeep.




It is now time to remove the Evap Canister from the mounting plate. This is very simple and only requires a small flat blade screwdriver. There is a small tab (metal finger) that needs to be gently pried upward, which will then allow the Evap to be slid off the mounting plate.




Here is picture of the mounting plate once the Evap Canister has been removed




Now things start getting interesting. You need to trim (cut) the mounting plate. There is a lot of excess metal on the plate which is no longer required. To save you any measuring just take a look at the RED cut-lines in this next photo to see where you should make your cuts.




We're getting to the good stuff. Now that you have cut off the excess metal it is time to drill a couple 1/4" holes in the mounting plate. The instructions from River Raider tell you to hold the mounting plate up to the Skid and mark the location of the holes. I'll save you some angst and aggravation. The two holes need to be drilled exactly 5" apart (center to center) from each other. Also, do not drill two holes as suggested, rather, drill two slots. This will give you a ton of maneuverability when doing your final positioning. I have used RED to show you approximately where to drill the two slots. Just remember the two slots should be 5" apart.


2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •

Last edited by Hemo; 11-01-2010 at 05:05 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 11-01-2010, 04:37 PM
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Only half of the write up.
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post #3 of 30 Old 11-01-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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I drilled the slots by drilling a 1/4" hole at the top and bottom of the slot area and then connected the holes with a de-burring bit. Here is a picture of what it looks like when done.




Now it is time to put the mounting plate into the Skid along with your 2.5 gallon tank. Once you have them both installed you can slide the Evap Canister on the mounting plate. If things are a little too tight you can reposition the mounting plate thanks to the slots you created.




You now mount the Skid into your Jeep as per River Raider's instructions. I can tell you that it feels HEAVY and you will either want a friend, floor jack or something similar to do this.

Once you have mounted the Skid and put the Evap Sensor back on you may discover that you are not able to turn the Sensor to the correct orientation due to the electrical connector running into the Skid. If that happens then simply loosen the Mounting Plate-to-Skid bolts and slightly reposition the Mounting Plate. The area that might cause you some problems is outlined in RED along with the location of the bolts to loosen if you need to slightly reposition the Mounting Plate.




Okay, we're nearly finished. Reconnect the hoses to your Evap Canister and tighten all the bolts on the Skid. Here is a shot of the mounted Skid from the rear of the Jeep. Note that you are above the Gas tank and the bottom of the frame rails.




Here is a shot of the mounted Skid from the front of the Jeep.




I have had the Jeep out since I installed the skid. It is rock solid. There is no contact between the Skid and the exhaust or the Skid and the drive shaft. I am tremendously happy with this Skid system. The guys at River Raider did a fabulous job. The fit and finish is great. I opted to have it finished with GatorHyde.

I hope this is helpful for anyone who is thinking of purchasing this Skid.

2008 Rubi Unltd • RR Roll Cage - Limb Risers - Evap Skid - Diff Covers • PolyPerf HD Ball Joints • Reid Hi Steer Knuckles • RK 3.5" Triple Threat PRO Longarm • Rebel F & R Coil Overs • sPod Mini • Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Rear Bumper w/ Tire Swing • Xenon Flat Flares • ORO Onboard Air • BD Dual Battery • 5.13 Gears • 35" BFG KM2s • Warn VR12000 Winch • Safari Straps Everything • Tuffy Security Drawer •

Last edited by Hemo; 11-01-2010 at 05:02 PM.
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post #4 of 30 Old 12-13-2010, 10:20 PM
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Just a bit more info on this skid. As it is shipped it won't work with the 3 link RK rear suspension. But it can be modified to work great. The aide the evap canister bolts to is at a 45 degree angle. Bend that so it is 90 degrees, cut and reweld the perpendicular mounting bracket, and it works.

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post #5 of 30 Old 12-14-2010, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoupSandwich View Post
Just a bit more info on this skid. As it is shipped it won't work with the 3 link RK rear suspension. But it can be modified to work great. The aide the evap canister bolts to is at a 45 degree angle. Bend that so it is 90 degrees, cut and reweld the perpendicular mounting bracket, and it works.
Absolutely! Mine had get "massaged" to work with my RK third-link, too. Works like a charm now!

RC

A lot of chit coming...

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post #6 of 30 Old 12-14-2010, 09:44 AM
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Nice writeup! If anyone has any questions feel free to email or call.

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post #7 of 30 Old 12-18-2010, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash View Post
Nice writeup! If anyone has any questions feel free to email or call.
I sent you a PM about exhaust fitment with this skid plate. Your guys products are awesome, keep up the good work!

OP thanks for the post, I got one of these second had with no directions, or even a response to my emails, and would have certainly run into issues without you. Thanks!

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[x]Friend to help me help me install all this stuff (yellow08rubicon)...PCSd to Texas, now I'm solo-installing
[x]Lift (Teraflex 4" System)
[x]sPOD
[x]Front Bumper (Exp-One)
[x]35's
[x]4.88's
[x]Lockers (ARB rear)
[x]Skid Plates (River Raider)
[x]Diff Armor (Teraflex+Poison Spyder)
[x]Sport Cage (Rock Hard)
[x]Rocker Armor (Teraflex)
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post #8 of 30 Old 01-07-2012, 04:14 PM
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Nice!


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post #9 of 30 Old 01-07-2012, 04:21 PM
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According to the River Raider website: For proper drive shaft clearance, a 2" lift or greater is recommended.


Hey, comeon. Make this thing fit stock suspensions...



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post #10 of 30 Old 02-18-2012, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for posting this....I see why I keep getting check engine lights and my jeep says gascap after installing the skid plate. My original evap and sensor were trashed so I ordered new from mopar, well they must not have included that fancy little green washer in with either part. Hopefully a quick order of that part and no more annoying dash lights coming on anymore.
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post #11 of 30 Old 02-22-2012, 10:09 PM
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Thumbs up Nice Write Up

Turbo Nice write up. I am ordering mine right now. I was concerned about the clearance between Drive Shaft and Exhaust but your review has me convinced to make the move and purchase one ASAP. Thanks again.
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post #12 of 30 Old 04-26-2012, 04:26 AM
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I did this mod. Love the skid. Hated the install.
Leftover issues:
1. gas cap codes. The gravity switch is in wrong position. I'll reposition and fix it. Just need time under the jeep.
2. Hits rear driveshaft. 3" lift. Jeep was fully loaded and we were going over bumps in the road that bottomed out the suspension. DS was hitting on the bolt that attaches evap plate to skid. We tried repositioning the skid farther over, but there is only so much "farther over". Issue not resolved.

I'll try repositioning the bolt in the skid to a point not so close to the balancing weights on the DS. Probably a bad thing if one of those gets knocked off...

I think the key to this project is patience. I don't have much of that.

side note - the whole thing worked like a charm in Moab though. Just needs some fine tuning now.
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post #13 of 30 Old 04-26-2012, 05:46 AM
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Apt, are you still on the stock rear drive shaft?


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post #14 of 30 Old 04-26-2012, 06:16 AM
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yes, factory DS still. The big huge ugly one. lol.
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post #15 of 30 Old 03-23-2013, 10:12 PM
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Where did you mount the pressure switch relay? I am having a hell of a time locating a spot where I have the clearance for it!

Thanks
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post #16 of 30 Old 03-23-2013, 10:22 PM
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River Raider Air Tank+Vapor Canister Skid Plate

Here is how I mounted my pressure switch, regulator and arb solenoids

When I tried to install the skid. The top of the regulator hit the bottom of jeep. That was solved by rotating everything counter clockwise.
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post #17 of 30 Old 03-24-2013, 09:24 AM
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Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply and the picture. Where did you get the tubing from if you don't mind me asking?
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post #18 of 30 Old 03-24-2013, 12:36 PM
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River Raider Air Tank+Vapor Canister Skid Plate

1/4" pipe fittings I imagine any lowes or hardware store would have them.
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post #19 of 30 Old 04-16-2013, 09:01 PM
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Finally got it installed up and under the Jeep! The only problem I am having is with the evap sensor, how exactly did you get it the white peice to face straight up and down, mine goes off at an angle and gives me a code.

Thanks for the help!
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post #20 of 30 Old 05-30-2013, 11:13 AM
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I have question for you all that have installed. From the pics that I see the water drain petcock seems to be on the side. How are you draining the water out?
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post #21 of 30 Old 05-30-2013, 11:25 AM
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I have question for you all that have installed. From the pics that I see the water drain petcock seems to be on the side. How are you draining the water out?
I put mine on the end on the tank facing the rear of the jeep. It's not ideal since the tank lays on its side. But it seems to be the best place for it.
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post #22 of 30 Old 05-30-2013, 04:50 PM
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in time the tank will rust out and your not getting your full 2 gallons out of tank. I was thinking about cutting mounting bracket off of tank and relocating and welding as to have drain on bottom or cutting of bracket and buying a bracket system for tank which ever I could get done cheaper.
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post #23 of 30 Old 05-30-2013, 07:42 PM
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Those are good ideas. I just didn't want to weld on a pressure vessel. I get most if not all of the water out of the tank by draining all the air out then turning the compressor back on while the valve is open until no more moisture is coming out.
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post #24 of 30 Old 05-30-2013, 07:49 PM
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If it gets out at least 95 percent of the water then that's a working solution.
Does it take long to do?
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post #25 of 30 Old 05-31-2013, 05:50 AM
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5 minutes tops
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