Replace Clevite Control Arm Bushings
Back from EJS I discovered I had to replace a frame side clevite lower control arm bushing. It seems all of these SoBs, no matter the manufacturer, eventually spit out of the control arm eyes and allow the eye to rub on the control arm mount bracket. Out of curiosity wondered if anyone had done a writeup on the procedure. Didn't find anything, so I thought I'd post how I do it using an old technique we used on A1 series VW (Rabbit/Scirocco/Jetta) motor mounts back in the 70s / 80s. Same process works great.
1) Press out the inner steel sleeve using a press or your ball joint tool and a socket smaller than the inner sleeve. It'll eventually just fall out.
2) Use a large socket and press out the rubber inner bushing. That will leave the large sheet metal sleeve in the eye of the control arm.
3) Use a Sawzall, hacksaw, etc. and cut through the thin steel sleeve in the control arm eye. You may cut into the eye of the control arm a bit, don't cut too deep and it's no worries. Be sure to cut through the rolled outer lip of the sleeve, too.
4) Once you've cut through it enough you can tap it out easily.
5) Use a bit of anti-seieze on the outer sleeve of the new bushing. Use a large socket, or as in my picture, a sleeve and press tool from your ball joint kit and press the new bushing assembly in until it's seated.
'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.
Last edited by SoK66; 04-28-2019 at 05:25 AM.