Bedlined tub and thermal barrier. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Bedlined tub and thermal barrier.

Sorry for the delay...this has turned into a four-day ordeal. I was trying to fit two projects into a three day break from work, so it took me longer than expected. I also wanted it to look really good. Function first in most cases, but with this Jeep , I really want my mods to look cool. Ah well, we don't all grow up...
It's more involved if you go my route, but I think the results look good.

Parts list (no air tools):
18mm socket
8-10" extension
Chisels in various sizes
Hammer
4 1/2" grinder with 80grit buffing wheel
Shop vac

Parts list (after I got sick of chiseling):
Air hammer
Airgun

Also:
Alcohol or mineral spirits
Rustoleum Bedliner 5-6 rattle cans @ $7-8/can
Rustoleum Filler Primer 2-3 cans @ $4-5/can
Reflectix Thermal Barrier $25 or so for a 4x24' roll

First remove the seats. I removed the rear seat bolts first then the bolts securing the front legs of the rear seats.
There's a good write-up here

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11960






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post #2 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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The usual suspects:



Next I removed the carpet. Pretty simple. There are four grey plastic "cup" clips that secure the carpet in the front seat footwells, two to each well. These clips slip onto existing threads. Point: keep track of them. They fly out if you pull the carpet too aggressively. This is what you see in the 2010 JK:



It's supposed to be some kind of heat/sound barrier. Yeah right.

Now take your chisel and hammer and get to bustin'. It will flake off and leave remnants around the ribs of the tub.

Now use the grinder and buffing wheel. This wheel will take this stuff off quick plus gives you a smooth metal surface to prime. Downside, billowy clouds of dust-sized particulate matter in the air. Answer: Shop vac. While grinding. One-handed. (No pics for obvious reasons.)

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post #3 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:04 PM
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i can't make the pics big

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post #4 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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After you dust yourself off, use your airgun to blow out the two inches or more of fine grey cancerdust out of your tub. Don't neglect the glovebox or the areas behind it.








All shiny! Now use your alcohol or other solvent and...oh, wait. Did you leave some of that matting around a rib in the passenger footwell? Dang! No problem, get that air hammer and bust out those hard to reach areas! As you can see in the last picture, I still have some at the top of the footwell. That's where I busted a 3" gash through my tub, riding the air chisel along the rib, not even aware until I thought, "Hm, this is slipping through really easy"." That stupid matting crap is thick and dumb.

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post #5 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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After you get done cussing out everything in the world, get yourself some Bondo Plastic Metal. Found it at Wal-mart for $3-4 in the Auto accessories dept. No pics; it's just a medium sized grey tube filled with basically pre-mixed epoxy. Spread it out (I used a plastic spoon) and let it set for 2-3 hours, then repeat. It set as hard as the tub and I'm not worried about leaks or chipping. Looked like hell though.

After that, prep your jeep: top and doors off:



Tape, newspaper and plastic sheet, then you can wipe everything down with denatured alcohol to remove oil and grease. Then prime:








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post #6 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention something:
Before you prime, scuff the paint with a wirewheel or brush so the primer sticks. This also removes the clearcoat, which is death to new paint.
I applied two good coats of primer then touched up some of the rougher areas like where I couldn't get all of that matting crap out. Let it dry for 20 minutes or so between coats. Occupy yourself with extraneous projects:
Priming and painting new brushguard:








Wiring lights to new brush guard only to remove them later when they don't fit:






Bedline your grill:







And no, my brushguard isn't crooked. The light tabs are though, so it looks off.

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Last edited by two ton anchor; 10-02-2010 at 09:16 PM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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After your tub looks like this:



you're ready for bedliner.

Confucius say: "Go slow, or it will look like crap." Literally ease it on. No heavy spray-n-pray, no "lick-lick-lick". A nice even smooth approach, done multiple times, will net you a smooth finish.










Note the worklight in the passenger footwell. I was quick-drying the Plastic Metal. It worked great. I also set up two high-wattage worklights (two lamps to a stand, standard stuff) to heat the interior and sort of "bake" the bedliner. This variant calls for a 72-hr cure time before you can rely on it. The lamps helped speed up the process.
The Rustoleum Bedliner is my personal favorite. It has a great finish, not plastic and slick like some, and has enough grit to it that if you run a towel across it, it'll pull out fibers. I personally like a flat sheen and it's pretty cheap, thus easy to touch up as needed.

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post #8 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Some of you may be asking "Where's the heat barrier? The rubberized undercoat?" I got to looking at the options and wasn't too pleased. The rubber stuff will take a coat of paint but you're left with a rubbery floormat under your feet that I didn't want. The Sherwin-Williams option was out as the closest store to me was out and I would have had to drive 1.5 hours out of my way. As time was short, I improvised.







Reflectix Thermal Barrier. $25 at Home Depot (far upper R corner of the Granbury store, one aisle over from the ladders). I also picked up 3M 77 spray adhesive at the paint dept. 77 is good for foil.

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post #9 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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As you can see in the top picture above, I placed a carpet section on the barrier, traced a rough pattern, cut out the pattern and any holes, then spray-adhered the barrier to the bottom of the CARPET, not TUB. Reason: if I go out wheeling, I'm pretty sure I KNOW I'm going out wheeling. I can remove the carpet and drain plugs and go play. Otherwise, with the carpet and barrier back in, I have a bit more climate-controlled ride for the family on road trips, or during these damnably hot summers.



This cutting, measuring and adhering took all night. I got ol' Tiffany buttoned back up 45 minutes before my shift started. Have a good roll of aluminum ducting tape handy, the kind used for a/c duct work, not plain grey duct tape.

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post #10 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some temp shots taken today. Windows down, no a/c, ambient temp 80 F.

Temp probe under p side seat carpet, on transmission hump.

Probe under carpet



Reading after driving from my wife's work to the firehall, approximately 7 minutes.



After 2.5 hr cooldown, probe in the same position against the t hump:



Ambient at that time:



Probe was re-located to the p side floorboard, just lying there.
After driving back to the wife's work for an apples to apples comparison for distance:



And after moving the probe to the d side t hump, outside the carpet (like where my leg likes to typically rest on LOOOONNNGGGG trips) and driving home, approximately 6 minutes:



Overall not too impressive. I only regret I do not have temp readings BEFORE the barrier install. Also bear in mind, I left my drain plugs out after putting the carpet back in because it was 0600 and I was tired and forgot.

If someone wants to post up temp readings with OEM stuff that'd be great. I think the real changes will come when I do the hardtop (bottom some darker version of reflectix or removable liners and maybe, MAYBE paint some of the hardtop white. I've heard good things though I think it looks frockin' ridiculous.) I've since re-installed the drain plugs and after driving 45 minutes to work under the carpet was over 130 F and the interior was a pleasant 73-ish.

That's about it. I let it dry for a day and a half, then had to rush to re-install and get to work. I've since pulled some of the carpet and the bedliner isn't showing much wear, even at the seat legs. Sorry if this ain't what you're looking for, but it was the best I could do for a solution to this heat problem while keeping it bedlined. Hope all this helps someone. Any questions, complaints, moans, groans, bitches, or gripes just lemme know.
Anchor

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post #11 of 27 Old 10-02-2010, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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AND...if you can tell me how to make the pictures expand when you click on them, please do. Imageshack is a PITA but WAAAAYYYYY better than photofucket.

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post #12 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 05:30 PM
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Outstanding write up!

I am going to take a look at the undsrside to see if I can find some way to stick some thermal barrier stuff against the tub.
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post #13 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by two ton anchor View Post
AND...if you can tell me how to make the pictures expand when you click on them, please do. Imageshack is a PITA but WAAAAYYYYY better than photofucket.

Great write up.

Obviously Imageshack must me a PITA, because I use photobucket and my pics work.
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post #14 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 06:13 PM
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So I'm confused...did you bedline the tub and then put the carpets back in?

Great writeup BTW

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post #15 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yessir, bedlined the tub, glued the thermal stuff to the bottom of the carpet, and put the carpet back in. I made a couple of slits around the front seat legs so when I do remove the carpet, I don't have to take the seats and all back out. I tried it out the other day (removing carpet with everything installed like seats, console, trim...) and it was WORK, but it came out. Putting it back sucked too, but not as bad as removing everything. Most of the holes in the carpet to accomodate the seat legs have slits running from the edge of the carpet into the hole, kinda like this:
--O

where the slit allows you to slip the carpet from around the leg. The front drivers' seat did NOT have this (the only place too. huh...) but a couple quick snips with some good shears or scissors and you're good.

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post #16 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Good luck with the underside search, Mr. Gilbert. I thought about that but worried about snagging a rock or stump or something that'll tear it out (going through water? I dunno...) In the end, it seemed, to me, that the inside would be the place to go, but if you find a good solution like a paintable barrier that can withstand the shocks of open- and off-road travel and still do the job, you better believe I'll be next in line to follow you.

Thanks for the compliments and comments y'all. It was more work than I imagined, but then again, I created more work for myself with all the screw-ups and missteps you didn't get to read about!


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post #17 of 27 Old 10-03-2010, 10:06 PM
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Nice write up, Please give us an update, maybe six months down the road. Like to see how the spray glue holds up. Also would like to know how the bed liner holds up. How many coats by the way?
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post #18 of 27 Old 10-04-2010, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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I used 5 of cans of bedliner and had one I used for touchup. In all, something like 2-2.5, a bit heavier in some areas than others, like the sills, seat posts, and footwells. It all came out even and smooth, no checks, holidays or runs.

As far as an update, I'd be happy to. Fall is finally replacing summer, so the monster temps we've had down here won't be around to melt the adhesive. I'll keep an eye on it though, as I'm curious as well. It's been great so far, even with three kids and their fat dad running and jumping into the jeep every time.

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Last edited by two ton anchor; 10-04-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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post #19 of 27 Old 08-30-2011, 11:38 AM
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I believe a company called "Lizard Skin" has a thermo bedliner that you can spray or roll on. Just an FYI for everyone!
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post #20 of 27 Old 08-30-2011, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
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I used 5 of cans of bedliner and had one I used for touchup. In all, something like 2-2.5, a bit heavier in some areas than others, like the sills, seat posts, and footwells. It all came out even and smooth, no checks, holidays or runs.

As far as an update, I'd be happy to. Fall is finally replacing summer, so the monster temps we've had down here won't be around to melt the adhesive. I'll keep an eye on it though, as I'm curious as well. It's been great so far, even with three kids and their fat dad running and jumping into the jeep every time.
Nice job. I've been considering using the same stuff. I used it on my PSC Bumper and it has held up extremely well.


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post #21 of 27 Old 08-31-2011, 12:48 PM
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How is the noise now that the carpeting and sound deadening is out? that is my biggest fear and the reason i am not doing it...

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

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post #22 of 27 Old 08-31-2011, 10:55 PM
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How is the noise now that the carpeting and sound deadening is out? that is my biggest fear and the reason i am not doing it...
The noise and heat is significantly higher without the carpets. Really high if you take all the plugs out.

Still don't regret doing mine though. It was dirty from a couple camping/wheeling trips this month. Just took it to the coin wash and sprayed it down after pulling the plugs. All clean and dry by the time I got home.
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post #23 of 27 Old 08-31-2011, 11:07 PM
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Some of you guys need to learn to decipher a URL. The ".th" denoted "thumbnail" sized pictures. Edit all your posts and remove the ".th" from all the image URLs.

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OKAY FUCKMOUTH.
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-01-2011, 12:36 AM
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How is the noise now that the carpeting and sound deadening is out? that is my biggest fear and the reason i am not doing it...
Look into LizardSkin: http://www.lizardskin.com/

There are actually two different products: one to reduce sound and the other for heat. You can apply the sound coating first, allow to dry, then apply the heat coating. You can bedline over either when dry. It can be used inside or outside but does require a bedliner or poly top coat for wear resistance.

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post #25 of 27 Old 10-10-2011, 10:44 AM
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how do you like it a year later? does it still hold up? sorry but i need to pull the trigger a lot sooner then expected so i am trying to get all the info now.

-Marc
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