Installing rear axle shafts - Page 3 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #51 of 70 Old 01-03-2013, 04:46 AM
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Check the housing the "cover" for the old bearing is still in there which isn't letting it seat all the way. Should be able to pop it out with a small screwdriver.

Is this thing on?

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post #52 of 70 Old 01-03-2013, 04:57 AM
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I will check on that

That sounds like a totally genius idea. I keep remembering at what it looks like on the inside, and i just remember seeing an angled inside lip. and this is just so peculiar to me. It makes total sense that it its the cover to the old bearing. or the Cup as many refer to it, i believe. I really hope i haven't been busting my nuts over this all day trying to make rocket surgery over such a small problem. if this is the case. I have them stuck on both sides and I will need to pull them on both before continuing my install. Tried posting some pics put I'm having difficulties. I am a noob to JKOwners and working on jeeps. Gotta start somewhere. anyway. thanks for the help. I will post on my progress and will try the screw driver bit as soon as i get up.
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post #53 of 70 Old 01-03-2013, 05:01 AM
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U might not even need the screwdriver it may just come right out

Don't ask how I know....lol

Is this thing on?

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post #54 of 70 Old 01-03-2013, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jebucide View Post
I'm currently working on this project. I pressed my bearing and collar, tried to install the shaft back on to the axle housing but the retaining plate bolts don't reach any more. So i cant complete the install. I'm not sure if its the new bearing that was included in the kit, which came fully encased, not open like the cone version on the OEM version that is causing the issue. when i compare the press distances to the original shaft it's right on the money, the only thing i can think of, is that the fully encased bearing doest allow for the shaft to fully insert into the housing, thus causing this problem. anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Or am I just a rambling madman who needs some advise from some more seasoned Jeep do it yourselfers.

Any feedback would be great. Also, this is my fist post.

Did you remove the old bearing race from the axle tube?

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post #55 of 70 Old 01-03-2013, 07:21 AM
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Is the old race still stuck in there?

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post #56 of 70 Old 01-05-2013, 12:30 AM
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It was the race. And it took more than a hammer to take it out. I had problems with the bearings on this side before. Had a shop do them for me about 4 months prior, but they started acting up. Decided to do them myself after seeing how bad it was once i took the brake disk off. It was horrible. Anyway, It looked like the previous mechanics took a chainsaw and rocks to it. it was a mess. eventually I got it out. Took a torch and some other tools and smoothed the surfaces out. I finally got the new axle in with no problem. Took the Jeep out last night in the Snow but had a catastrophic failure as i slipped into a snow covered ditch i did not foresee and snapped my front weak sauce DANA 35. Now its back to the drawing board. at least my rear axle is working well and got me out of the muck no problem. Thanks for the help everyone. Now for the next project. Any suggestions on what to replace this one with? I was thinking of the Dynatrac prorock44 unlimited. But i will go with anything else that is possibly a bit cheaper. A fully assebled product is preferred, but not necessary.
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post #57 of 70 Old 05-28-2013, 03:54 PM
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I just wanted to add one thing to this write up as I've been doing a little research.

I'm swapping in G2 brand 35 spline shafts to go with my locker. Like other shafts, they reuse (or use new) retainer plates and tone rings. They do come with everything else.

They don't put the torque specs for the lug studs in the box but they recommend that the studs be installed in the flange with locktite and that you torque them to 75-85 lb-ft. They also recommend that torque for the lug nuts once you put the wheel on.


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post #58 of 70 Old 05-28-2013, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimmjeeper View Post
I just wanted to add one thing to this write up as I've been doing a little research.

I'm swapping in G2 brand 35 spline shafts to go with my locker. Like other shafts, they reuse (or use new) retainer plates and tone rings. They do come with everything else.

They don't put the torque specs for the lug studs in the box but they recommend that the studs be installed in the flange with locktite and that you torque them to 75-85 lb-ft. They also recommend that torque for the lug nuts once you put the wheel on.
I just threw in a new driver side last weekend and one of them was loose on the shaft i pulled-added to my routine maintenance checklist.

Is this thing on?

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post #59 of 70 Old 05-31-2013, 05:10 PM
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One note to add (or to reiterate) when assembling the rear axle shafts.

I found that the axle ring has one side that's chamfered to make pressing it on easier. Also, it was easier to press on the bearing by itself first, followed by the axle ring which takes noticeably more force to press on.

But here's a 35 spline G2 axle shaft fully assembled (without the studs being torqued down yet because I need a second set of hands to do that).



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post #60 of 70 Old 05-31-2013, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimmjeeper View Post
(without the studs being torqued down yet because I need a second set of hands to do that).
Pry bar between two studs against the ground won't do?

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post #61 of 70 Old 05-31-2013, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Pry bar between two studs against the ground won't do?
You and your silly common sense logic have no place here... (as I go grab my tools...)

Edit: Now with properly torqued lug studs...


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Last edited by grimmjeeper; 05-31-2013 at 06:41 PM.
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post #62 of 70 Old 07-11-2014, 01:26 AM
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Hi, i just got a set of alloy usa rear axles for my jk rubicon which i ordered to be assembled with everything pressed on but came un assembled.

looking at the parts i got, i got
the 2 axles
tone rings X2
bearing axle shaft X 2 (the bigger bearings)
retain ring bearing x2 (holds the bearing in place?)
seal out X 2
wheel studs

but i didn't get this bit that i have terribly outlined in red from grimmjeeper.




was i meant to get that? or do i need to get that off my old shafts? i havent pulled them yet, but does that mean i have to take off the 2 bearings and seal to get that piece off? what is everyone calling that? i assume it just secures the axle to the housing. is this the retaining plate?

so in order from first item to last in order of pressing on it goes

1) tone ring
2) retaining plate (if that's what its called)
3) seal out
4) bearing axle shaft
5) retain ring?

so the tone ring should be 1/8 to 1/4" from the hub end of the shaft? or from where the shaft steps down to the smaller diameter at the diff end?

then the reatiner plate is pressed on up against the tone ring?
the seal goes hard up to the retainer plate
the bearing goes hard up against the seal?
the bearing retainer goes hard up against the bearing?

cheers
bit annoying having to take this retainer plate off the other shafts, means i wont have spares.
post #63 of 70 Old 07-11-2014, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi, i just got a set of alloy usa rear axles for my jk rubicon which i ordered to be assembled with everything pressed on but came un assembled.

looking at the parts i got, i got
the 2 axles
tone rings X2
bearing axle shaft X 2 (the bigger bearings)
retain ring bearing x2 (holds the bearing in place?)
seal out X 2
wheel studs

but i didn't get this bit that i have terribly outlined in red from grimmjeeper.




was i meant to get that? or do i need to get that off my old shafts? i havent pulled them yet, but does that mean i have to take off the 2 bearings and seal to get that piece off? what is everyone calling that? i assume it just secures the axle to the housing. is this the retaining plate?

so in order from first item to last in order of pressing on it goes

1) tone ring
2) retaining plate (if that's what its called)
3) seal out
4) bearing axle shaft
5) retain ring?

so the tone ring should be 1/8 to 1/4" from the hub end of the shaft? or from where the shaft steps down to the smaller diameter at the diff end?

then the reatiner plate is pressed on up against the tone ring?
the seal goes hard up to the retainer plate
the bearing goes hard up against the seal?
the bearing retainer goes hard up against the bearing?

cheers
bit annoying having to take this retainer plate off the other shafts, means i wont have spares.
That piece you have outlined in red is the retainer plate. You can re-use the retainer plates from your current axles.

Yes, you will have to cut off the bearing retainer and bearing to get the retainer plate off. If you want to keep your old shafts as spares just order a set of new retainer plates from the jeep dealer or your favorite online parts supplier.

TC
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post #64 of 70 Old 10-10-2014, 07:39 PM
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anyone got a tip for what to do when one one the 4 studs/bolts on the retaining plate is spinning, so i can;t get the nut off. i don't have room to get the sawzall in there to cut the bolt and whatever i do i cant get the bolt to wedge so the nut will turn against it. i'm putting in a whole new axle shaft assembly so don't care if i ruin this one, just want to get this last nut out! i guess if i could weld i could tack weld it to the plate, but don't have any of that.

Last edited by afletche; 10-10-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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post #65 of 70 Old 10-10-2014, 08:43 PM
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ok - managed to get the sawzall in and it's done. now i need to go buy another nut as that one is never coming off the end of that bolt.
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post #66 of 70 Old 06-18-2015, 06:46 AM
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Bump for an old thread, was very informative, changed my shafts last night. Also proof that the search function works when looking for information

I was basically looking for the location to install the tone rings, etc and torque specs. To install the tone rings, bearings I have access to a bearing warmer which makes the job a lot easier than having to press them on.

Thanks for the good info
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post #67 of 70 Old 04-22-2017, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
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Bump for an old thread.
I have access to a bearing warmer.
I'm guessing NOT a microwave oven?
Thanks again for all the info.
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post #68 of 70 Old 09-12-2019, 04:51 AM
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07 JKU rear dana44 limited slip left axle stuck

My 2007 unlimited X with 192k miles, rear dana 44 with 4.10 gears and limited slip diff is leaking fluid on driver side rear. I watched many videos and read many threads on how to remove and replace the axle. So I ordered a Yukon axle with seal, bearing and everything I need. I go to remove my old axle take off everything needed and it won't budge. I tried prying on outside of axle and inside of diff nothing moved. I had a old rotor from before lying around so I flipped it and used a smalll 10lb sledge going around top, bottom, sides, hitting it mildly (didn't want to break something) trying to get it loose, no luck. Going to try using the rotor as a slide hammer tonight to see if that helps.

My questions are how hard should I pound or in this case pull on the rotor to get the axle free, and is there anything that I may strip on the inside of the diff. if I really have at it? Is there anything special about the limited slip diff on the non rubi danna 44 I might have missed? I don't want to damage or replace gears in the diff when on the inside everything still looks good and almost new with just a little wear marks.
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post #69 of 70 Old 09-12-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MUD707 View Post
My 2007 unlimited X with 192k miles, rear dana 44 with 4.10 gears and limited slip diff is leaking fluid on driver side rear. I watched many videos and read many threads on how to remove and replace the axle. So I ordered a Yukon axle with seal, bearing and everything I need. I go to remove my old axle take off everything needed and it won't budge. I tried prying on outside of axle and inside of diff nothing moved. I had a old rotor from before lying around so I flipped it and used a smalll 10lb sledge going around top, bottom, sides, hitting it mildly (didn't want to break something) trying to get it loose, no luck. Going to try using the rotor as a slide hammer tonight to see if that helps.



My questions are how hard should I pound or in this case pull on the rotor to get the axle free, and is there anything that I may strip on the inside of the diff. if I really have at it? Is there anything special about the limited slip diff on the non rubi danna 44 I might have missed? I don't want to damage or replace gears in the diff when on the inside everything still looks good and almost new with just a little wear marks.
Using the rotor as the hammer will be better/less binding than a sledge on a smaller area. If it doesnt option 2 is hammer away/it will come out eventually...make sure the race is out when you go to install the new one/I would bet yours stays behind like mine did. I looked at it for 10+ minutes before the duh light bulb went on....lol

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post #70 of 70 Old 09-12-2019, 09:03 AM
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Thanks. I was pretty sure that was the route to follow, but wanted some advice. Didn't want to mess up something by being to rough and paying for it later. The front axles came out no problem when I upgraded those. these are just a pain in the ass
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