JK 4door cargo floor - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-13-2010, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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JK 4door cargo floor

I have put this post together after a member from a Aussie forum expressed interest in the floor I made for my JK. Thought it may be handy for someone here.
Since purchasing an Engel fridge, I found no suitable way of anchoring the damn thing as the JK has no points to tie to. Not wanting to drill into the factory floor, I decided to make up a false floor covering the entire cargo area.
The first attempt was a bit " hows ya mother" as I made it out of a thinner gauge metal and covered it with steel shelving. This version uses 12mm (1/2 inch) marine type ply and 1 inch square tubing .I have attempted to convert metric measurements to imperial for you guys, feel free to correct me on any mistakes..............
List of materials:

25x25mm x2mm shs: 5.5 metres ( 18'1" ) Shs: square hollow section.
(1 inch x 1 inch )

50x50x3mm angle: [email protected] 40mm
(2 inch x 2 inch x .11 of an inch): 3 @ 1 1/2 inches

25x25x3mm angle: 248mm
(1 inch x 1 inch x .11 of an inch )

12mm marine ply: 995x765mm
( 1/2 inch ply : 39.17 inch x 30.11 inch )

70x8mm nuts and bolts: 2
( 2.75 x .31 inches)

25x4mm countersunk Phillips head machine thread screws: pkt of 50
( 1 inch )

Carpet: Hard backed hall runner ( found at Bunnings of all places) Hardware or carpet shop.

1x small tin of contact glue.

First off I pulled the jack cover part out and put it aside. Then folded the rear seats down to get to the seat anchoring bolts.
I used a drop saw for cutting up the steel used but an angle grinder with a cutting disc will do. I grabbed 50x50mm (2 inch ) angle and cut it into 3 sections of 40mm (1.5 inches) then using a step drill bit drilled the holes to 14mm (9/16). Using an 18mm socket I removed the the 2 nuts and bolt retaining the seats. I then bolted the angles to the floor using above mentioned points. Not overtightening them as I needed to be able to turn them to line them up.
Please note: The below pic is of the first attempt, disregard the steel, same idea though..

I then cut a length of the 25x25mm (1 inch) shs to 995mm (39.17 inch) and using vise grips, clamped it to the angles mounted in the vehicle. Taking the clamped pieces out of vehicle and setting them up on a bench, I tacked them together using a small mig welder.
Now to the rear of the vehicle, I cut a piece of 25x25mm ( 1 inch) shs to 945mm (37.2 inch) and positioned it across the back, no further rear than the jack opening, cut 3 more lengths of 25x25mm ( 1 inch) to 718mm (28.26 inch) and used these to join front and back.
Following the contours of the cargo area, I found the sides tapered in at the front, no biggy I reckon, adjust to suit.........
Using more of the 25x25 ( 1 inch), I filled in the centre section for support.
Using the 25x25mm ( 1 inch) angle, I cut it down to 248mm (9.7 inch), drilled a pair of 10mm (13/32) holes and welded it on 270mm (10.6 inches) from the passenger side edge.

Next on the list was to cut the ply to suit the frame.
The ply was sourced from a timber mob opposite the Archerfield airport in Brissy for around 40 bucks. Its not that flimsy garbage ply you find at hardware stores but heavy duty stuff used by concreters on large commercial pours. If it holds concrete to form, it should support a dinky little fridge..
As the frame sits in ridges, I found the ply could be cut to fit closer to the wheel arches so there is some overhang on the frame. The front and rear has been cut to line up with the frame edges.
Using the Phillips head screws, the ply was fitted to the frame.


The rear hold down happens to be an old jack handle that was lying around. I cut it down then drilled 2 holes to correspond with the holes already in the frame, wacked a couple of bolts in it and hit it with the mig to stop them rotating.
The carpet is a grey hall runner piece I found that has a hard backing which is good for preventing sand and crap falling into the jack hold down area as the frame finishes way short of the tailgate, so needed something to hold its shape. The only issue was the need for a join as it's not long enough to cover the entire floor. This was glued down with contact, then trimmed to suit, leaving overhang at the front and rear. The front being to cover the bolts and the rear to be trimmed to run up to the pinch weld at the tailgate. That way the carpet is tucked under the door seal......

All in all I'm happy with the way it turned out, no more rocking and rolling from the fridge and I have a sturdy floor to anchor junk to. Just got to find a suitable fridge slide and I'm laughing.......
Not 100% on the rear mount so if anyone can think of an alternative, I'm all ears...[/QUOTE] Although this post is a "cut and paste" I am the original author.

Last edited by Rodjk; 04-09-2018 at 09:15 PM.
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post #2 of 5 Old 09-13-2010, 03:09 PM
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Wow, Nice and Clean Install

I don't like drilling into the body any more than I have to either. Great job there!

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TF 2.5" Coil Lift w/shocks, TF Frnt Adj Trac, TF FLCA, JKS Discos, JKS Rear Adj Trac, LOD Full Rear GEN2,
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post #3 of 5 Old 09-13-2010, 07:54 PM
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im assuming you lost access to the storage cubby?


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Everyone else can BLOW themselves cause im bad as FUCK!
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-14-2010, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoridinTX View Post
Wow, Nice and Clean Install

I don't like drilling into the body any more than I have to either. Great job there!
Cheers mate. One of the reasons I used the existing mounts, is the ability to return the floor to stock if need be. Would be handy for leased units or peeps that upgrade every couple of years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeatenPath View Post
im assuming you lost access to the storage cubby?
Yeah mate, but to fit an opening with a hinged lid wouldn't take a whole lot of effort. A jigsaw, piano hinge and a couple of stops ( to prevent the lid falling in the void) would sort it out.
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-14-2010, 06:03 AM
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Very Nice......gives me a new approach to an existing idea I have... Nice work!


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