PCV Valve Easy Removal - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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PCV Valve Easy Removal

This is how I easily removed and installed the PCV valve:

Removing the coil pack is easy to do, and greatly improves access to the PCV valve.
Disconnect all six plug wires at the coil pack. The stock wires and the coil pack terminals are numbered, so no need to worry about marking them.
Remove the two bolts marked with yellow arrows.
Leave the main electrical plug, marked with red arrow, connected.
Rotate the coil pack up and out of the way. It will tuck in behind some of the wires, and stay there.






Now that you have plenty of room to work, remove the clamp from the PCV hose. Pliers will do it, but a hose clamp tool designed for this type of clamp will make it easier.






You now can see the PCV valve recessed into the adapter.






Put a zip tie on the neck, as pictured. Grab the zip tie with some pliers. Rest the nose of the pliers on the intake manifold, as in the picture.






Pry up with the pliers. The Valve comes out so fast and easy, it actually may make a "pop".






Place the new valve in the adapter. It will be hard to push home, so get a socket just big enough to fit in the adapter. The socket wall should be thick enough so it will push the valve, and the rubber seal.
An extension on top, long enough to stick above neighboring lines, will allow you to push or tap the valve home.






Here is a pic of the valve after seating it with the socket.
Reconnect the hose with the clamp, to the PCV adapter.
Reinstall the coil pack, connect the wires to the appropriate terminals.
When you push the plug wires onto the terminals, make sure you hear them snap into place.

Remove all tools from the engine bay.






Here is a link to how the valve works:

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35277
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post #2 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 03:29 PM
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Remove all tools from the engine bay.
LOL- and so true!

Nice write-up. My question is- why did you replace yours?

Thanks

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post #3 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
LOL- and so true!

Nice write-up. My question is- why did you replace yours?

Thanks
I had noticed on another forum people were having a difficult time getting the valve out without destroying it.

I wasn't seeing any symptoms. I just wanted to inspect it and show an easy way to remove it.
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post #4 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 05:45 PM
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Good writeup & pics. Thanks, may need this someday.

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post #5 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 06:28 PM
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I was able to grab the top of the PCV valve with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled straight up. Came out without a problem. I did use the socket trick to help re-seat the valve though...


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post #6 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 09:54 PM
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can you get them at the local parts stores yet, or are they still only available from the dealer?

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post #7 of 87 Old 08-22-2010, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afoulk View Post
can you get them at the local parts stores yet, or are they still only available from the dealer?
I did an extensive search a couple weeks ago. Only the dealer has them as yet.
Parts stores have PCV Valves that look similar, but they are calibrated differently.
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post #8 of 87 Old 08-23-2010, 09:49 PM
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Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to share this.

How often should this be replaced?

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post #9 of 87 Old 08-23-2010, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spleify View Post
Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to share this.

How often should this be replaced?
Each year's owner's manual is slightly different.
Your 2007 owner's manual says to inspect, and replace if necessary, the PCV valve every 30,000 miles.

To inspect it, remove it and shake it. If it rattles freely, and you can feel good spring tension on the inner tapered cone, (push on it through the hole in the bottom), it is OK. If not, replace it. The factory service manual recommends against trying to clean it.
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post #10 of 87 Old 08-24-2010, 11:25 AM
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Good tip -- it would have been even better two months ago.... I torqued on mine a bit too much and broke the plastic valve cover when trying to get it out. The good news is/was the replacement valve cover came with a new PCV valve already installed.

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post #11 of 87 Old 08-24-2010, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Each year's owner's manual is slightly different.
Your 2007 owner's manual says to inspect, and replace if necessary, the PCV valve every 30,000 miles.

To inspect it, remove it and shake it. If it rattles freely, and you can feel good spring tension on the inner tapered cone, (push on it through the hole in the bottom), it is OK. If not, replace it. The factory service manual recommends against trying to clean it.
Great info, thanks! I just hit 30,000 miles so I will have to pull it out and check it.

Thanks

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post #12 of 87 Old 08-24-2010, 08:00 PM
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I ended up prying mine out by putting a small screwdriver through the hole in the side of the neck (enlarged during the wrestling maneuvers). Thought I was gonna crack the damn valve cover (as noted above). Luckily I got it out. Never thought to get out the trusty wire ties!

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post #13 of 87 Old 09-08-2010, 10:09 PM
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anyone have a price on this little gem?

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post #14 of 87 Old 09-09-2010, 12:13 AM
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I can't remember exactly but I think I bought mine for $11ish....if I am not remembering correctly, I think $16 would be a high price.

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post #15 of 87 Old 09-13-2010, 10:10 AM
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I paid $6.84 at moparpartsamerica.com (dealership in Beaverton, OR)

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post #16 of 87 Old 09-13-2010, 02:58 PM
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I paid $6.84 at moparpartsamerica.com (dealership in Beaverton, OR)
Dont they charge shipping and handling fees of about $10-15 though?

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post #17 of 87 Old 09-13-2010, 08:03 PM
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Dont they charge shipping and handling fees of about $10-15 though?
Their shipping is based on whatever you buy (size, weight, etc). I plan to replace mine every 30,000 miles, so I got 3 of them along with oil filters and other parts that I needed. It certainly wouldn't make sense to buy one at a time this way

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post #18 of 87 Old 05-06-2011, 03:07 PM
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Just got one at NAPA part number CRB 2-9555 cost was $10.69. Thanks for the correction, dayum eyes, it's a bitch getting old...

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Last edited by Dragline; 05-07-2011 at 04:00 AM. Reason: Corrected part number
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post #19 of 87 Old 05-06-2011, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Just got one at NAPA part number CRB 2-5555 cost was $10.69.
CRB 29555 is what shows on the NAPA site. Thanks for the lead.

Last edited by ronjenx; 05-06-2011 at 04:28 PM.
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post #20 of 87 Old 05-07-2011, 04:05 PM
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Just changed it out tonight, pulled the PCV straight up and out with needle nose pliers. Hose was wet with oil hopefully this helps my consumption issue.

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post #21 of 87 Old 05-08-2011, 03:17 AM
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Great info as always Ron.

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post #22 of 87 Old 05-13-2011, 06:33 AM
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Just replaced mine last night, easy. Thanks for the info Ron.

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post #23 of 87 Old 08-30-2011, 07:38 AM
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Symptoms?

What are the symptoms of having a bad valve?
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post #24 of 87 Old 08-30-2011, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScaleJK4x4 View Post
What are the symptoms of having a bad valve?
A bad PCV valve may or may not show symptoms.
Rough running/idle, increased oil consumption, are among the possibilities.

Inspection is required to see if it is functional.
Remove it and look for general condition, broken spring, and see if the cone inside will rattle up and down when you shake it.
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post #25 of 87 Old 08-30-2011, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
A bad PCV valve may or may not show symptoms.
Rough running/idle, increased oil consumption, are among the possibilities.

Inspection is required to see if it is functional.
Remove it and look for general condition, broken spring, and see if the cone inside will rattle up and down when you shake it.
Alright. Thanks for the info!
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