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post #1 of 25 Old 07-12-2010, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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My transfer case linkage fix

How to fix transfer case linkage

Everyone has their own way, hereís how I did mine. No pictures Ė believe me, it will be easy to follow along.

1) First, drive home from the place where you had to be towed to on Chryslerís dime when the thing broke, since your Poly Performance t-case skid made access impossible.

2) Go to the dealership and buy some of the offending bushings, just in case you need them. (you wonít; youíre developing a better solution). Marvel at the 35-cent butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible plastic component that disabled your vehicle.

3) Go to hardware store Ė acquire an assortment of steel sleeves, bushings, tubing, washers, and e-clips to craft your solution.

4) Pull Poly t-case skid Ė you will need arms the length of cro-magnon man to reach a few of the nuts underneath. Remove it and examine the shredded remains of previous bushing that nestled there. Set aside.

5) Realize that you canít remove the shift pawl from the transfer case, because youíve got a Rubicon Ė instead of the 10mm nut that the other models have, you have a little allen or torx head on there. Donít bother getting your wrenches Ė itís so close to the front driveshaft yoke there is no way to get to it off without pulling the drive shaft and yoke. Abandon idea of removing pawl. Understand you therefore canít use anything you bought at the hardware store.

6) Install new butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible failure prone bushing into cable end. Cut bushing end flush with cable eye and slide on shaft. Take a washer and e-clip and get them into position.

7) Call Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot as the washer and e-clip repeatedly bounce off your safety glasses and roll into oblivion every time you try to get pliers into the tiny, unreachable, convoluted spacers between the exhaust, driveshaft yoke, and cables. Abandon the e-clip idea.

8) Get into other car and drive back to hardware store. Buy some hitch pins. Come back and clip hitch pin into recess on end of shaft.

9) Done. Now have fun doing the console side.

10) Realize hours have gone by. Drink beer. Revel in your new deep, complete understanding of exactly why Chrysler quality is still regarded as the poorest in the industry and why we are all funding their bailout with every paycheck.

Thatís it! Youíve done good. Now go break it again.

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post #2 of 25 Old 07-12-2010, 06:52 PM
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you know, i'm a little disappointed i wont be looking forward to any MF'ing in this ordeal due to smashed and bloody knuckles during the process, you sure you didn't forget to list a step?

now i just have to figure out how the heck to get to the stealership before 5pm during the week....

thanks for the write up, unfortunately looking forward to going through this myself

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post #3 of 25 Old 08-02-2010, 07:34 PM
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yea, i already went through this last summer and you explained it to a "T"... now i have to do it to the console side as it failed me about 3/4 way up a nice steep sandy hill.... i have the 08' X.... any ideas? do i have to take the damn console out? if so then FML!
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post #4 of 25 Old 08-03-2010, 06:55 AM
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Great write up. Very descriptive.

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post #5 of 25 Old 08-03-2010, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bigabt83 View Post
yea, i already went through this last summer and you explained it to a "T"... now i have to do it to the console side as it failed me about 3/4 way up a nice steep sandy hill.... i have the 08' X.... any ideas? do i have to take the damn console out? if so then FML!
Yep, the console has to come out. It's not that bad at all, though - do a search, someone who was bedlining their interior did a write-up that included the console removal. It only takes a few minutes to pull it. The worst part is actually getting the knob off of your t-case lever (and 6-speed shifter if you have it). When pulling it off, don't be staring down the barrel of it Popeye-style, or you'll give yourself a black eye and probably knock yourself out when it comes loose.

Naturally the console end is much easier to reach than the t-case end. I manged a triple-whammy on it - hitch clip, e-clip (3/16") and twisted some bailing wire over the open end to prevent it from getting any sneaky escape ideas. It's Appalachian Engineering at its finest but I don't think its likely to budge, and is ten-fold better at least than the factory Jeep crap.

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post #6 of 25 Old 06-21-2012, 03:34 AM
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anyone have any pictures of this washer and e clip fix so I can visualy see what you have done???
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post #7 of 25 Old 06-21-2012, 05:52 AM
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Showing the console end...
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post #8 of 25 Old 06-21-2012, 08:19 PM
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thank you
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post #9 of 25 Old 06-22-2012, 03:05 PM
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Great write up. Is the clip hitch pin also a 3/16" or is that just for the E-clip? Are you calling the clip hitch pin and same type keeper that used to be on trottle linkage on carbs? Straight on one side and S-shaped on the other.
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post #10 of 25 Old 06-24-2012, 01:13 AM
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This happened to me on the trail today

Really should listen, er, read better.

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post #11 of 25 Old 07-15-2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADGER View Post
How to fix transfer case linkage

Everyone has their own way, here’s how I did mine. No pictures – believe me, it will be easy to follow along.

1) First, drive home from the place where you had to be towed to on Chrysler’s dime when the thing broke, since your Poly Performance t-case skid made access impossible.

2) Go to the dealership and buy some of the offending bushings, just in case you need them. (you won’t; you’re developing a better solution). Marvel at the 35-cent butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible plastic component that disabled your vehicle.

3) Go to hardware store – acquire an assortment of steel sleeves, bushings, tubing, washers, and e-clips to craft your solution.

4) Pull Poly t-case skid – you will need arms the length of cro-magnon man to reach a few of the nuts underneath. Remove it and examine the shredded remains of previous bushing that nestled there. Set aside.

5) Realize that you can’t remove the shift pawl from the transfer case, because you’ve got a Rubicon – instead of the 10mm nut that the other models have, you have a little allen or torx head on there. Don’t bother getting your wrenches – it’s so close to the front driveshaft yoke there is no way to get to it off without pulling the drive shaft and yoke. Abandon idea of removing pawl. Understand you therefore can’t use anything you bought at the hardware store.

6) Install new butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible failure prone bushing into cable end. Cut bushing end flush with cable eye and slide on shaft. Take a washer and e-clip and get them into position.

7) Call Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot as the washer and e-clip repeatedly bounce off your safety glasses and roll into oblivion every time you try to get pliers into the tiny, unreachable, convoluted spacers between the exhaust, driveshaft yoke, and cables. Abandon the e-clip idea.

8) Get into other car and drive back to hardware store. Buy some hitch pins. Come back and clip hitch pin into recess on end of shaft.

9) Done. Now have fun doing the console side.

10) Realize hours have gone by. Drink beer. Revel in your new deep, complete understanding of exactly why Chrysler quality is still regarded as the poorest in the industry and why we are all funding their bailout with every paycheck.

That’s it! You’ve done good. Now go break it again.

I drilled out the nipple on the lever and used a bolt / spacer etc about 3 years ago. Never have broke the console side of that connection. But this next week when I put in my new tuffy console I will go ahead and take care of that end as well.
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post #12 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 08:01 AM
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Too common apparently

Just happen to me for the first time in the Smokeys this weekend. Stuck in 4L going up a muddy hill. Finally got to the top and dray ground. Manually shifted to 2.

Stealer got me today for 109.00 plust tax to replace it.
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post #13 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 08:41 AM
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^^^^^ Go by the dealer and get a couple of those bushings. They are just a few cents each maybe a dollar. You can install the one at the transfer case with a pair of channel locks (just squeeze it in place). Be aware the same bushing is on the other end of the cable underneath the console.

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post #14 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 09:07 AM
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Why carry spares when you can just head off the problem? I fixed mine before it broke 2+ years ago. Haven't needed to worry about it since.


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post #15 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 09:44 AM
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^^^^^ Some of us are busy and cannot spend hours whiling away tinkering on the heaps. A permanent fix is better, granted, but time may not always allow or the lack of desire could be a factor.

For instance, my linkage came apart on me in the middle of now-where Arizona this winter. Went by the dealer got the cheap parts and threw them in the glove box cheap insurance for the next time. I have not been able to work on my jeep since summer 2011....I can only dream of tinkering as I sit making a living getting shot at....


Taking time to do a permanent fix like you did is good but being able to repair on the trail in a matter of minutes for the price for a dollar is better for some.

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Last edited by toymaster; 09-06-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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post #16 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 10:42 AM
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I spent 15 mins retrofitting mine with a cotter pin. Beats laying in dirt, burning asphalt and working around hot exhaust. Worth "hours" to me. I understand your situation, however the majority of the group here likely has time to fix the problem.


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post #17 of 25 Old 09-06-2012, 01:20 PM
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At least I was on level ground in dry calm weather when I discovered I could not shift out of 4LO. Someone who had already read this thread had the bushing & installed it for me on the top or lever end.
Also found Advance Adapters has a complete replacement for the linkage, only $185. Wonder how many hours it will take to install?
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post #18 of 25 Old 09-08-2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MntrsJeep View Post
At least I was on level ground in dry calm weather when I discovered I could not shift out of 4LO. Someone who had already read this thread had the bushing & installed it for me on the top or lever end.
Also found Advance Adapters has a complete replacement for the linkage, only $185. Wonder how many hours it will take to install?
It's a pretty simple swap

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post #19 of 25 Old 09-16-2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I spent 15 mins retrofitting mine with a cotter pin. Beats laying in dirt, burning asphalt and working around hot exhaust. Worth "hours" to me. I understand your situation, however the majority of the group here likely has time to fix the problem.


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Do you have a write up for what you did? Or some details?
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post #20 of 25 Old 09-16-2012, 05:00 PM
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Do you have a write up for what you did? Or some details?
Prevention>cure
I ground the bushing nipple off the end of the cable and just wrapped a cotter pin around the stud. It was a tight squeeze, but I haven't had to look at it again in over 2 years...so it must be okay.


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post #21 of 25 Old 10-19-2013, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Fin View Post




Showing the console end...
Does anyone know where to get that bushing? Lowes, auto parts, specialty?

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post #22 of 25 Old 10-21-2013, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
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Does anyone know where to get that bushing? Lowes, auto parts, specialty?
Looks like he turned it on a lathe. Pretty easy if you have the materials and of course, a lathe.

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post #23 of 25 Old 11-03-2013, 06:09 PM
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Pulled the console, found the problem


Engineering FAIL


Trimmed the factory replacement bushing first


Then found this little jewel in the bottom of a bucket. Had to drill it out to 5/16 ID and them used a Dremmel to enlarge the ID of the plastic bushing rather than reduce the OD of the brass.


Used a 3/16" E-clip to keep it locked in place.



It looked like the plastic linkage might slip over the E-clip so I used a washer.


Hope this helps someone else. One of these days I'll do the t-case side.

Side note: why is there untreated metal ANYwhere on a Jeep, notice the rust under the console.

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post #24 of 25 Old 12-22-2013, 07:28 AM
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Does anybody know if jeep fixed this by 2013 or later?? Maybe a newer part number or better material??


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post #25 of 25 Old 12-22-2013, 11:00 AM
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My t-case has been without the bushing since I bought the jeep but its never been an issue. The lever side on the other hand lost its bushing and then popped off causing me to be stuck in 4 low. I found that you can actually remove the torx bolt on the side of the center console near the shift lever and then pull the side of the console out a bit and get at the cable. I did that a few times before I replaced the bushing with a new one from the dealership.

I'm going to go the e-clip route on the t-case though and then tackle the lever side once it fails me again.

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Last edited by Dutch; 12-22-2013 at 11:06 AM.
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