How to run 37s with flat flares, a 1" body lift, and 2.5"-3" suspension lift - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 46 Old 06-14-2010, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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How to run 37s with flat flares, a 1" body lift, and 2.5"-3" suspension lift

I've received a few questions about how to do this.

This information has been repeated several times in other threads via copy and paste.

I thought it would be easier for people to find if it was a stand alone thread.

Wheels with more backspacing require slightly more bumpstopping.

The pics below show 17" wheels with 4.5" backspacing and 15" wheels with 4" backspacing. The 4.5" backspaced wheels required more steering stop washers and slightly more front extended bumpstopping.

With flat flares and a 1" body lift, to run 37s you want 0"-1" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops.

If you want to do 37s with flat flares and no body lift, you want 1.5"-2" front and 3.5" rear extended bumpstops.


As a preface, lift height alone does not give you the ability to run larger tires.

What matters is flare/body clearance and the length of your bumpstops.



So, here is an explanation:

In the pictures below, I have my winter wheels on...with a OME LT kit (3") from Northridge4x4.

(I haven't reinstalled my wide Xenons for winter yet.)





Okay, the details on how to do it:

37s, OME HD springs (3"), 1" body lift, and:

Cut 2" off stock Rubi rocker guards




Drill holes to replicate stock rocker guard ends so you can move the caps (here is what a stock end looks like):




Fold over pinch seam with BFH (big friendly hammer), sand underneath cut or flat flares, paint flat black, also sand rear most pinch seam and paint it flat black so the 1" body lift is less obvious. Sand inner rear fender well and paint with Duplicolor bedliner (looks better than trimmed stock inner liner):




Sand and paint flat black under the front trimmed flares, and drill a couple small holes through the bottom part of the front inner fender liner so you can zip tie it to the body mount to hold it in place:





You will need 2.5" extended rear bumpstops. Here are mine from my original 2.5" TF BB when I had my Xenons installed:





You can run stock front bumpstops without rubbing, but your springs will fully compress. I later added 1" extended front bumpstops from JKS (the kind that you bolt to the bottom of the front spring perch). Here is a full stuff on stock front bumpstops and 37s (pre-OME LT shocks and extended brakelines):



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Last edited by planman; 06-14-2010 at 09:55 PM.
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post #2 of 46 Old 06-14-2010, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Barely touched with compressed front bumpstops and Xenon flares:





Wife driving with front compressed on stock bumpstops:




Wife also driving with stuffed rear tire (those tires and wheels are now on her rig):





Install front axle sleeves, C gussets, box in lower control arm brackets with skids, and reinforce trackbar bracket on front axle:







Install chromoly front and rear axle shafts (didn't take any pics).

Install minimum 5.13 gears, and preferably 5.38 gears if you have an automatic (no install pics).

Install Superchips Flashpaq.

Adjust front steering stops with 4-6 washers to avoid rubbing tires on frame rail with full lock turn. Not my pics, but here is is a write-up:

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource Jeep JK Wrangler Steer Stop Adjustment


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post #3 of 46 Old 06-14-2010, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the results with the upgrade from the 2.5" Teraflex BB, with 4dr Rubi take-off front springs, and Skyjacker Hydro shocks for a 2.5" to 3" lift...

to the current OME HD 3" springs with OME long travel shocks, extended brakelines, Currie front lower adjustable arms, JKS adjustable front trackbar, Rubicon Express rear adjustable trackbar, JKS rear upper adjustable control arms, JKS 1.25" front extended bumpstop, and keeping the 2.5" rear Teraflex extended bumpstop:






And from the 2010 EJS:



And now, I am on 40s. Here is the thread:

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28802


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post #4 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
That on the right rear bump stop? +2.5" and 3" lift?

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post #5 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
That on the right rear bump stop? +2.5" and 3" lift?
2.5" bumpstop and 1" BL. 1.25" front bumpstops.

Without a 1" BL, you would need about 3.5" extended rear bunpstops and 2" in the front.


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post #6 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 05:18 PM
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Dang, that sure is a lot of bump stop in the rear.

Not sure I could do a body lift on a Wrangler, how are they doing it with the manuals. Just a shifter extension?

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post #7 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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RC has a 1.25" BL with a shifter extension for manuals. You can buy the extension separately if you want to stick with a 1" BL.

I did my 1" BL without an extension and had to trim the inner shifter boot.

If you run rear upper and lower control arms, you can move your rear axle back in the wheel well. Then, you can run shorter rear extended bumpstops. However, even at a 0.75" stretch, you need to modify your frame side trackbar mount and relocate your rear swaybar back on the frame.


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post #8 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 05:56 PM
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Thanks for the info Plan, you are a wealth of info!

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post #9 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Glad to help


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post #10 of 46 Old 11-20-2010, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
If you run rear upper and lower control arms, you can move your rear axle back in the wheel well. Then, you can run shorter rear extended bumpstops. However, even at a 0.75" stretch, you need to modify your frame side trackbar mount and relocate your rear swaybar back on the frame.
Do you have any pics or a write-up on this?

2008 JK X 2dr. Std. Blk
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post #11 of 46 Old 11-21-2010, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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This is from Jon (Co4Lo):






I essentially did the same thing but cut off the unused side of the stock bracket.

With regard to the rear swaybar relocation, in the stock location it is secured by two bolts. I moved the mounting location back one bolt hole, drilled and tapped a new hole in the frame, used a piece of steel with 2 holes drilled in it as a spacer, and reinstalled it with longer bolts.

I have more sway now, so I am going to install a Full Traction HD rear swaybar. Without it, my ESP kept going off after installing my hardtop for winter.


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post #12 of 46 Old 11-22-2010, 10:31 AM
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Thanks Planman.... exactly what I was looking for

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post #13 of 46 Old 03-30-2011, 10:03 PM
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What kind of shocks are you running (OME Long Travel)?

More important question is what the least amount of bump stop you need to run to keep the OME LT shocks from bottoming out. I plan to run 35s on 2 suspension lift and flat flares but I wanted to use the OME long travel shocks. I am a little bit worried about not having enough up travel with the OME LT shocks.


I started a thread with some specs of the OME and Bilstein shocks.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...d=1#post731935
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post #14 of 46 Old 03-31-2011, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gcally View Post
What kind of shocks are you running (OME Long Travel)?

More important question is what the least amount of bump stop you need to run to keep the OME LT shocks from bottoming out. I plan to run 35s on 2 suspension lift and flat flares but I wanted to use the OME long travel shocks. I am a little bit worried about not having enough up travel with the OME LT shocks.


I started a thread with some specs of the OME and Bilstein shocks.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...d=1#post731935
Yes. I'm running the OME LT shocks. I needed 1.25" in the front and 2.5" in the rear for extended bumpstops.

However, you will need both front and rear extended brakelines.

Also, 2" rear springs will fall out at full shock droop without lower coil retainers combined with either upper coil retainers, or limiting straps, or something like the Teraflex 0.5" rear upper coil spacer that has a long center coil guide.

With the OME LT and 2" lift, both front and rear coils will unseat on full droop. The front doesn't matter as much if you run a lower coil perch bumpstop extension.

You also would need to extend your axle breather tubes front and rear, and in the front, you need to either reroute over the top of the knuckle or splice in an extension to your ABS lines.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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post #15 of 46 Old 03-31-2011, 09:00 AM
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Yes. I'm running the OME LT shocks. I needed 1.25" in the front and 2.5" in the rear for extended bumpstops.

However, you will need both front and rear extended brakelines.

Also, 2" rear springs will fall out at full shock droop without lower coil retainers combined with either upper coil retainers, or limiting straps, or something like the Teraflex 0.5" rear upper coil spacer that has a long center coil guide.

With the OME LT and 2" lift, both front and rear coils will unseat on full droop. The front doesn't matter as much if you run a lower coil perch bumpstop extension.

You also would need to extend your axle breather tubes front and rear, and in the front, you need to either reroute over the top of the knuckle or splice in an extension to your ABS lines.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info!!!!

I have a couple more questions.

What OME springs do you have? I plan on getting 616 fronts and 618 rears. My 2 door will be heavy with full armor, bumpers, full size spare, and skids. I probably will get more like 2.5 lift out of the HD 2 door springs.

How much up travel do you have at 3 lift and the OME LT shocks? I think 4.5 of up travel is a good number to shoot for. Anything below 4.5, I am worried that I will be riding on the bump stop during daily driving.

Are you running stock drive shafts? Auto or Stick?
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post #16 of 46 Old 03-31-2011, 04:31 PM
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I didn't read the entire thread. This may have been addressed, but in the following pic, what is keeping your passenger front tire from touching the ground? Limit strap? Fully extended shock? Also, I can't tell if you have a 44 or 60 under there.

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post #17 of 46 Old 03-31-2011, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=rubirobv;732895]I didn't read the entire thread. This may have been addressed, but in the following pic, what is keeping your passenger front tire from touching the ground? Limit strap? Fully extended shock? Also, I can't tell if you have a 44 or 60 under there.[QUOTE]

In that picture, it might be the swaybar link before the shock was fully extended, but it is pretty close. On the next obstacle, I ended up pretzeling the passenger side link over the drag link because the shock fully extended and the link inverted forward.

Now I run longer front links, and my shocks are the limiting factor.

They are 44s.

The front is sleeved and gusseted, with chromoly shafts and Dynatrac ball joints.

The rear has chromoly shafts, JKS weld-on axle side trackbar bracket, and EVO RockStar skids.


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post #18 of 46 Old 04-02-2011, 02:43 PM
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I'm going to have to do this to mine and brace it a bit more when I install my rear suspension..Looks good.


Quote:
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This is from Jon (Co4Lo):






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Past jeep:
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- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #19 of 46 Old 09-22-2011, 07:56 AM
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Reviving an older thread here, but what bumpstop do you recommend for a 4DR with flat flares and no BL? Rear seams and rails are trimmed, but I get very little up travel before contacting the rear bumper. And I can easily get into the pinch seam, too, even with them trimmed.

Oh...and that pretzeling the swaybar link over the drag link issue you mentioned? Did that this weekend over a burm on our MX track behind the subdivision. Longer pins en route.

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post #20 of 46 Old 09-22-2011, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Reviving an older thread here, but what bumpstop do you recommend for a 4DR with flat flares and no BL? Rear seams and rails are trimmed, but I get very little up travel before contacting the rear bumper. And I can easily get into the pinch seam, too, even with them trimmed.

Oh...and that pretzeling the swaybar link over the drag link issue you mentioned? Did that this weekend over a burm on our MX track behind the subdivision. Longer pins en route.
For the front, either JKS or RK adjustables, or TF front uppers.

For the rear, you could do the RK weld on adjustables, TF rears with 1/4" steel plates cut and drilled to match the stock lower pad, or you could do something that approximates 3.5".

I don't like extending the bumpstops taller than the amount of lift. That is why I like 2.5" rear extended bumpstops with a 2.5" lift and 1" body lift over 3"-3.5" extended bumpstops with a 2.5" lift.

Or, you could remove your rear bumper and buy something with more clearance, and then you could cut your rear fender well pinch seam more.


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post #21 of 46 Old 09-22-2011, 01:09 PM
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Actually, I'm getting a stock rear bumper tomorrow afternoon to hack up and stubby. Hopefully, that'll do the trick. And I've already looked at trimming the rear-most seam, too. Still gonna' need to bumpstop the rear some, though.

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post #22 of 46 Old 09-22-2011, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ShortBus View Post
Actually, I'm getting a stock rear bumper tomorrow afternoon to hack up and stubby. Hopefully, that'll do the trick. And I've already looked at trimming the rear-most seam, too. Still gonna' need to bumpstop the rear some, though.
This is the second hack on mine. First I shortened it, finished it off all clean, met it's first rock and it didnt fair well lol. Not much room to make a stock rear look much of any good, but it worked for awhile



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post #23 of 46 Old 03-02-2012, 07:26 AM
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planning stage

Did you have to replace drive shafts with the ome hd 3" springs. I read the whole blog but didnt see anything in regards to them.

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post #24 of 46 Old 03-02-2012, 07:29 AM
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Did you have to replace drive shafts with the ome hd 3" springs. I read the whole blog but didnt see anything in regards to them.
You shouldn't have to, no.

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post #25 of 46 Old 03-31-2012, 08:07 PM
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I have this set up too for the most part. 37x12.5" Nitto Trail Grapplers, 4.5" backspacing, 2.5" Teraflex spring lift, Teraflex bump stops front and rear for their 2.5" spring lift, front Teraflex swaybar links. Lod rock sliders. Bushwacker Falt fenders on the way and the rear pinch seem trimmed in front of the wheel. I cut the front bumper for now but I had to remove the rear bumper.
I do not want to do a body lift.

So I guess I now I need to add a 1/4" bump stop spacer plate under the rear bump stop and still trim the pinch seam behind the rear wheel for more clearance?

Ultimately I want to go to 3" of lift down the road.
Great thread Planman!

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