How ironic...I just did mine last night (pimp add for Woods - I bought Hawk pads from Jeepswag.com (http://www.jeepswag.com/jeep_jk_brakes/index.html
)...OK, actually I went to his house and picked them up but same difference)
Nice vid...would like to add:
Equivalent of 1/2" = 13mm
If you don't have a c-clamp, a pair of big channel locks can be used - just have the old brake pad in between the channel locks and piston - don't put the channel locks directly onto the piston. you could also wedge a screwdriver between the rotor and the old pad (while it is still assembled) and push the piston back in -just be careful not to nick the rotor (unless you plan on replacing the rotors, then who gives a crap).
Also, I recommend taking off the rotor. Good time to inspect the parking brake assembly and you'll want to scuff up both sides of the rotor's brake pad surface with 100-120 grit sand paper. This will give it a non-directional surface -better for brake pad seating. I also sand down the rust on the wheel-to-rotor mating surface and on the back side of the rotor as well. If the rotor is really warped, grooved, or has massive heat spots, it might be best to replace the rotors instead of machining being that they're fairly thin to begin with. If you decide to turn them, be sure not to exceed the minimum thickness which is stamped on the inside of the rotor.
One last note, I didn't bother putting lube on the pads' tabs. I'm afraid all that will do is attract dust, dirt; mud. I found that my pads moved quite easily without it.
Edit: One final reminder, when pushing the pistons back in, that fluid is going back into the reservoir. If your reservoir was full to begin with, it will now overflow. Do yourself a favor and buy a turkey baster and siphon some of that fluid out of the reservoir before starting your brake job. Just be very careful in not spilling any brake fluid on any painted surface. Brake fluid will dissolve paint almost immediately! Also, after completing the brake job, push down on the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal BEFORE putting into drive/reverse and taking off.