Video on how to change your brake pads - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 04-07-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Video on how to change your brake pads

Easy, stupid easy, it took me twice as long to do it due to video recording it easy
And if you have to replace the rotors its 2 more bolts and remove/replace the rotors

YouTube - How to change brake pads on a Jeep JK, yes even you can do it.
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post #2 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 03:54 AM
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Awesome man.

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post #3 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 05:40 AM
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How ironic...I just did mine last night (pimp add for Woods - I bought Hawk pads from Jeepswag.com (http://www.jeepswag.com/jeep_jk_brakes/index.html)...OK, actually I went to his house and picked them up but same difference)

Nice vid...would like to add:

Equivalent of 1/2" = 13mm

If you don't have a c-clamp, a pair of big channel locks can be used - just have the old brake pad in between the channel locks and piston - don't put the channel locks directly onto the piston. you could also wedge a screwdriver between the rotor and the old pad (while it is still assembled) and push the piston back in -just be careful not to nick the rotor (unless you plan on replacing the rotors, then who gives a crap).

Also, I recommend taking off the rotor. Good time to inspect the parking brake assembly and you'll want to scuff up both sides of the rotor's brake pad surface with 100-120 grit sand paper. This will give it a non-directional surface -better for brake pad seating. I also sand down the rust on the wheel-to-rotor mating surface and on the back side of the rotor as well. If the rotor is really warped, grooved, or has massive heat spots, it might be best to replace the rotors instead of machining being that they're fairly thin to begin with. If you decide to turn them, be sure not to exceed the minimum thickness which is stamped on the inside of the rotor.

One last note, I didn't bother putting lube on the pads' tabs. I'm afraid all that will do is attract dust, dirt; mud. I found that my pads moved quite easily without it.

Edit: One final reminder, when pushing the pistons back in, that fluid is going back into the reservoir. If your reservoir was full to begin with, it will now overflow. Do yourself a favor and buy a turkey baster and siphon some of that fluid out of the reservoir before starting your brake job. Just be very careful in not spilling any brake fluid on any painted surface. Brake fluid will dissolve paint almost immediately! Also, after completing the brake job, push down on the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal BEFORE putting into drive/reverse and taking off.

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Last edited by Ogie; 04-08-2010 at 06:05 AM.
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post #4 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 06:16 AM
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Good information...Just did the brakes on the mini-van yesterday.

No, seriously, I have a mini van also.

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post #5 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 06:40 AM
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Where can I get a pair of those ventilated brake changing pants?

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post #6 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 10:16 AM
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Just curious...On average with 35's, how many miles before you guys are changing the original pads etc.

I know it depends on one's driving habbits and all. But on average..?:

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post #7 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ynkedad View Post
Just curious...On average with 35's, how many miles before you guys are changing the original pads etc.

I know it depends on one's driving habbits and all. But on average..?:
I replaced my rears at 16,000 miles which is unusually low. I still had a few mm of material to go before reaching the sensor but I don't like to run that low. When the material is the same thickness of the metal backing, that's when I change mine out. For the record, I have 35'' tires on steel rims and I do a lot of stop 'n' go driving with frequent visits to the surrounding mountains.

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post #8 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 10:59 AM
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Man. That dude in the video swears a lot! I find this video offensive.

Thanks for posting that.
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post #9 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 11:12 AM
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Thanks! I'm at 15k miles and I'm pretty darn close to the steel plate.
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post #10 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 11:25 AM
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Nice write-up doc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogie View Post
I replaced my rears at 16,000 miles which is unusually low........
That seems to be fairly normal from several JK experiences. My wife is very good to brakes and the first set wore out around 20k miles. We're at 65k and still no need for front pads. ESP seems to be the culprit. YMMV

........My other hobbies include: Older cars and trucks; Spending money on unfinished projects, and continuing to not finish them...

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post #11 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 11:30 AM
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Wish I had this 3 wks. ago Nice job that will help when I do the front.
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post #12 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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my pads were 35,000mi...I shit you not and not hitting the squeekers yet

And I will sell you the special vented vehicle work on pants for $35 shipped
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post #13 of 28 Old 04-08-2010, 04:58 PM
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Thanks for the replies..

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post #14 of 28 Old 04-12-2010, 11:32 PM
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Thanks Doc... Great video!

I just rotated my tires... gotta change my rear breaks now... go figure.

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post #15 of 28 Old 04-13-2010, 12:38 AM
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Wow my fronts are low and im at 27k mostly city driving. My rears have a little more than the front. I'm going to be changing both of them very soon.
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post #16 of 28 Old 04-13-2010, 04:21 PM
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Thanks for the video.

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post #17 of 28 Old 05-05-2010, 12:18 PM
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Thanks

I just did my front and backs today. I just passed 30,000 miles on the original ones the backs completely worn but the fronts looked pretty darn good.
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post #18 of 28 Old 05-05-2010, 02:25 PM
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Thanks doc. Now I figured out why I was doing this all wrong. I was trying to undo the wrong friggen bolt. Dumbass me .

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post #19 of 28 Old 05-05-2010, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogie View Post
One last note, I didn't bother putting lube on the pads' tabs. I'm afraid all that will do is attract dust, dirt; mud. I found that my pads moved quite easily without it.

Edit: One final reminder, when pushing the pistons back in, that fluid is going back into the reservoir. If your reservoir was full to begin with, it will now overflow. Do yourself a favor and buy a turkey baster and siphon some of that fluid out of the reservoir before starting your brake job. Just be very careful in not spilling any brake fluid on any painted surface. Brake fluid will dissolve paint almost immediately! Also, after completing the brake job, push down on the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal BEFORE putting into drive/reverse and taking off.
X2 pump the brake pedal before you even start it till its firm, I had a friend back in high school that took off before getting a firm pedal he almost crashed into fence

I've changed my front twice and rears 3 times. PUT THE GREASE on the tabs they will eventually squeak if you dont. I've had to pull them off to grease them to shut damn squeaking up for the one time I didnt put it on.

Your reservoir shouldnt be full if your pads are low unless someone added fluid.


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post #20 of 28 Old 05-05-2010, 06:35 PM
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Great Video Doc.
One additional thing I do is to put blue Loctite on the caliper bolts. Wouldnt want those babies coming loose.
Your videos are really great. Many thanks,
Ron

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post #21 of 28 Old 06-06-2010, 10:34 AM
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Good vid doc, you are right about the lefty loosie thing.... a bunch of us watched this guy tighten (when he was supposed to be loosening) on of his caliper bolts - none of us caught it until it snapped.. duh.


And for good measure - hammer the shit out of everything


(the hammer part was a joke)

IMO it is a good idea to get a couple of extra caliper bolts - cheap at the stealership and might save you (or someone else) from some damage and a possible long shitty day.

part number is 68004084AA and costs $2.35 + tax = $2.54 (thanks N2)
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post #22 of 28 Old 06-14-2010, 04:55 PM
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Thanks Doc great video. changed mine today. 30k miles with about 17k on 35's. It was stupid easy and saved me some $$ fo sure. Cheers
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post #23 of 28 Old 06-17-2010, 04:48 AM
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Been hearing an occasional squeal from my rears recently, bought pads and went to install them and still had about 50% left. Decided to wait and will just do front and rear at the end of the summer.

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post #24 of 28 Old 07-21-2010, 08:02 AM
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its also a good time to lube your slide pins while you have everything off.
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post #25 of 28 Old 01-31-2011, 04:58 PM
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Thanks for the video. It does seem like a newb could do it and save big $$$. My wife's Honda Pilot is needing the same, I think I'll give it a go.

Thanks again Doc!
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