I know I got the eggs before the basket but here is my first write-up. I will soon add the hitch, but wanted to tackle the tougher first. I bought a new 2010 Unlimited 4 door sport in bright silver. As one of the stipulations of my purchase, it was agreed by my “Stealer” to get cost on parts the first week. I ordered a 7 way trailer harness, part #82210214AB. When my part came in, the cashier sent me home with the wrong receipt. Retail: $88.50, I paid: $77.44, cost: $61.95. It an OK deal, but the proof is in the pudding, CROOKS. I digress, got it home and studied the included “destructions”. Mostly pictures and works for most models, one size fits all. Studied the forum and found some helpful info and included everything I learned and what worked for me.
This is a link to the included instructions from MOPAR. http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/75397.pdf
Things to know: 7 way plug is designed to hook to a trailer with electric trailer brakes. The harness does not include an adapter for 4 way flat plug to trailers without brakes. Adapters can be bought anywhere, and include things like a cigarette lighter plug for powering accessories. The opposite end of the harness does not include a plug to connect the power brake module. As far as I have learned, DC does not make an add-on harness for the brake module. You can buy a universal plug anywhere you can buy trailer wiring products. Most vehicle makers use different “pigtail” plugs for the brake module, so make sure you get one that matches your module.
The harness construction is as follows; the business end of the harness starts with a y set of plugs to “tap” into the left rear taillight, followed by the connection plug for the 7 way plug, and mounting bracket. A little further is a relay, for what I am not sure. The harness is mostly covered in split loom conduit and heat shield. Near the end of the harness, a blue wire splits out to run into the cab to attach to your pigtail to send the brake signal to the trailer. At the end is a negative to attach to the battery and a fused positive.
Tools needed; ratchet, 1/4”, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm sockets, Phillips head and T20 screwdrivers, drill and 1/8” bit, electrical tape, rust inhibitor, deburing tool, fish wire, and RTV sealant.
Caution wait until muffler is cool to run harness to avoid burns.
1.Disconect negative battery cable using 10mm socket. Tuck end of the cable under nearby wires to prevent wire memory from resetting cable.
2.Using Phillips head scrwdriver, remove the drivers side taillight assembly. Unscrew the two screws on the right. Keep the screws handy to reapply taillight.
3. Remove the taillight by sliding to the rear and right. Unplug the plug from the back of the light by pressing down the push down in the middle and separating the two plugs.
4.Bundle up the loose wires on the end and tape flying ends to fuse holder. Insert fuse into taillight opening. Inside the cavity, there is rigid foam plugging the bottom. The fuel line run toward the front of the compartment. Shove the harness down the path of the fuel lines, leaving only the y outside the opening.
5.Plug the y between the original lead and the taillight.
6.Reinstall the taillight by hooking the tabs on the left side and then seating the light housing. Screw the two screws back in place.
7.If you have a lift, this step is easier, but a jack in the front worked for me. If you have any lift, you can creep underneath. The harness hangs down on the left side of the frame from the taillight. Route the harness across the frame and over the muffler bracket. Use a zip tie and secure to this bracket. Route harness to the rear, along frame cross-member. I used teo zip ties together to attach harness to frame member.
8.With the harness pulled tight, use bracket to mark places to drill, as close to center of bumper as harness will allow. Drill 1/8” holes for bracket in cross-member. De-burr hole and seal with rust inhibitor. Attach bracket using the two ¼” machine screws. Zip tie harness to cross-member near the right end of the muffler.
9.Route harness over muffler mount, toward the center of the vehicle.
10.There is y spring bracket in the center of the tub that you can zip tie to. If you have a 2 door, loop excess harness here.
11. Route harness over cross-members at evap. canister and tie. Route over transfer case toward passenger side.
12.Using a fish wire, route harness thru motor compartment near the battery. Zip tie to oxygen sensor.
14.Pull harness up near battery.
15.Run blue wire with looms across firewall. Zip tie to looms.
16.Use fish to run blue wire into cab through rubber bushing on the upper drivers corner of firewall.
17.Retrieve fish and wire in drivers floor well and bundle wire.
18.Plug 7 way plug into harness at the rear of the vehicle. Mount the 7 way plug to the bracket.
19.Re-attach the negative battery cable. Caution the horn will honk when power is restored.
20.Connect white wire to the negative binding post using 12mm socket. Connect red wire with white stripe to the positive binding post using 10mm socket. Zip tie fuse holder to the something near the battery.
Test the trailer lights through the new 7 way plug. Trailer brakes will not work at this point. The blue wire in the cab needs to be connected to a brake module. Stay tuned for my next write-ups, including hitch install, and brake module pig tail. Of course there is always a bag of left over parts.