HMMWV Beadlocks - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 Old 03-13-2010, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
gt3073b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakemoor, IL (northwest Chicago burbs)
Posts: 453
Feedback: 0 reviews
HMMWV Beadlocks

To start with, please take a look at this writeup on Pirate4x4 for the background info. I am going to only post the differences relevant to a 12 bolt build-up.

The article shows the 8 bolt rims for the old bias ply tires. The 8 bolt rims are for bias ply only and are rated for much lower PSI than the 12 bolt rims since there are fewer bolts with a much lower torque spec. The 12 bolt rims can run radials or bias ply. There are actually 2 generations of 12 bolt rims as well. The first gen has 3 washers that help center the flange to the wheel, and the second generation uses a hole in both the wheel and flange for a centering tool. The second gen is also rated for even more load capacity (3850lbs I think), probably for the newer up-armored vehicles. You cannot mix and match the parts between the different 12 bolt wheel types, but each piece is stamped with the part number of the matching other half. My wheels are the second gen 12 bolts. The 8 bolt wheels use a standard rubber valve stem. The 12 bolt wheels use a steel and brass valve stem assembly that bolts to the flange. 12 bolts also cost a little more but I got mine at a good price from a friend who already runs a set of 8 bolts on his CJ.

The wheel centers and rock rings came from Great Lake Offroad, the beadlock inserts came from Stazworks, and the 45 degree valve adapters came from 406YJ, all of whom are vendors on Pirate4x4.

Here are a few things to note when building up these wheels. First of all, the front brake calipers overhang the mounting face of the hub, so a flat center will NOT work by itself. This is not an issue in the rear. A common solution on other vehicles is to use a pressed center, but since I had these cut for 5 on 5, nobody had the dies setup for that and nobody could say for certain that there wouldn't still be an interference issue, since I believe this was the first set of HMMWV wheels on a JK. My solution to this was to use 1.5" Spidertrax spacers. I leave these on for the stock Rubi wheels as well.

Another difference between the 8 and 12 bolt wheels is that on the 8 bolt wheels, the old center is in the back part of the wheel, whereas the center that has to be removed is on the flange of the 12 bolt wheels. I first tried cutting the old center out by turning the flange upside down and plasma cutting the rib right at the bottom of the groove. This did not allow enough room for a Currie/ARB style deflator to get in between the rock ring and the cut edge. After wheeling them for a few days, it was time to fix that. I took them back to my friends house and we cut them by using another friends un-modified wheel as a template. Set the wheel flange down on the table with the wheel sitting on it, studs down. Use the inner lip of the wheel as a guide for the plasma tip to cut the center of the flange out. It left a MUCH cleaner cut. Some of the folks on Pirate4x4 are setup with waterjets. The waterjet leaves a better looking cut. The difference is cosmetic though.

The rock rings for 12 bolt wheels usually don't have a 13th hole cut for the valve stem. The reason is that the standard valve stem on 12 bolts points toward the center of the wheel and outward at a 45 degree angle and the tip is about on the same plane as the 12 studs and the edge of the rim. To get even a fairly small air fitting in there at an angle, you would need a pretty large cutout which would remove most of the metal in that area. Not good for strength, balance, or aesthetics. The solution is to use a standard 1/4" npt 45 degree pipe fitting. Good luck finding one at Lowes or Home Depot. Enough people build these up on Pirate though, the hardware is pretty easy to come by and it is cheap. My valves were full of crud, corroded, and needed new nylock nuts, so I picked up some new ones at Kascar in Greenville, SC. They sell civilian and military HMMWV parts and they have a parts counter so it was easy for me to stop in on my way to Atlanta. They also do internet sales. The first part of the valve assembly fits through the valve slot on the flange and uses an o-ring and a nylock nut to hold it in. That gives you a 1/4" npt thread which can then connect to the CTIS or use a Shraeder valve adapter, which is just 1/4"mpt with a hex and a standard Shraeder valve core and threads. Unscrew the Shraeder adapter, put the 45 degree adapter in with Teflon tape, then thread in the Shraeder valve to the 45 degree with more Teflon tape. This points the valve right toward the center of the wheel and keeps it fully protected by the rock ring. You can't see it in the pics but it is right between two of the clamp studs and the end is about flush with the inner edge of the rock ring. It's very slick.

continued....

2007 JK Rubicon Unlimited Rescue Green 6 Speed
Mods Shrockworks Rails & Bumpers, Currie Lift, Tom Woods 1350 driveshafts, 35" Toyo M/Ts on ProComp 7028s
In Progress
To Do
gt3073b is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 03-13-2010, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
gt3073b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakemoor, IL (northwest Chicago burbs)
Posts: 453
Feedback: 0 reviews

There is a step in the inside diameter of the main part of the wheel. If you turn the wheel studs facing down and drop your new wheel center in, it will slide down to this step. Hammer the center in a bit and tack it in. Mount the wheel half on your axle and check it with a dial indicator. Adjust as necessary and burn it in. The face of the wheel at the studs was hard to get a good reading off of, so we measured off of some of the other features formed into the wheel and got much more repeatable results. This step conveniently yields about 4.75" backspacing when using a 3/8" plate center. Combine that with the 1.5" spacer and you get 3.25".

Remember that whole thing about 3 different kinds of wheels? Well apparently they changed from the commonly available -458 o-ring to some crazy non-standard military o-ring for these wheels. I thought, mine were in good shape and I could reuse them. After the first trip, I found that one was leaking so I bought a new set from Kascar. They are in the $15 each range. Don't order the -458 o-ring unless you have the 8 bolts. That o-ring is slightly to big in major and minor diameter, and the -457 would be too small in the major diameter and still to thick in minor diameter. Epic Fail for the genius who decided that McMaster Carr was just too darn convenient.

There are several options for the beadlock insert. There is a ton written up on this so I wont spend much time on all the different flavors. I got the HDPE inserts from Stazworks. They aren't the cheapest option, but they are much lighter than the rubber or mag runflats, you don't have to modify them, and they are much tougher than the PVC inserts. My friend Tom just had one of his PVC inserts break inside the wheel and the resulting death wobble was a sight to behold. There is enough flex to the HDPE that you can just lay the tire down and stand the insert up perpendicular to the hole. Step in the middle of the insert and it will pull it into an oval and pop into the tire. Then stand the tire up and step on the edge of the insert to rotate it into position. The first one took about 10 minutes. The rest took maybe 3 minutes each. This method uses no tools, no cutting, and nothing is under tension to pop loose and hurt you or the tire. On the other hand, you can probably get all 4 mag inserts for the price of one HDPE insert.

The powder coat that comes on the wheels is insane. Somebody needs to figure out what they use and put it on rock sliders. I got a big metal wash tub and sprayed them down with a heavy duty chemical stripper that says it removes everything including epoxy and powder coat. Wrong. Tried a GALLON of another brand. Same deal. It basically softened it just enough that the knot wheel on the angle grinder could cut into it. It still took well over an hour and a half of wire wheeling per wheel just to get the areas that needed welding or plasma cutting clean. Who knows how long it would take without all the nasty chemicals (which eat through latex, vinyl, and nitrile gloves in about 15 seconds. DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING). Go all out on the safety gear. Full face shield and a good respirator are a must.

Prior to painting the wheels, I sent them off to the guys at Charlotte Soda Blasting. They blasted them down to bare metal, but the baking soda media is pretty soft so it wont damage threads (or even etch glass). It also leaves a dusting of baking soda on the surface that stops the metal from flash rusting. The media is also not reused so there is no danger of getting the last guys rust, grease, and powder coat blasted into your project. A quick rinse of vinegar and water immediately before painting leaves a perfectly de-greased surface ready for finishing. I also followed up the vinegar/water with some denatured alcohol. With the fairly high humidity, the surface would start to rust immediately if I didn't get it dry quickly. The alcohol really helped out there. Had I known how painless and cost effective this was going to be, I would have skipped the hours of chemicals and wire wheeling entirely and had this done before we did the welding.

I had the back of the wheels painted at Maaco. The finish isn't spectacular in the really deep hard to reach, but also hard to see areas, but looks good where you can see it. I wanted them in Rescue Green, and it was going be very expensive to buy that color from either the stealership or Sherwin Williams. The rock rings are just rattle canned with Rustoleum Industrial primer and satin black. This is the stuff in the big silver cans. The rings will take all the abuse so there was no point in spending any more than necessary on painting them. Besides, I thought the two-tone look was appropriate for 3 piece wheels. If I were to do it over again, I'd get the wheel powder coated, but I'd still use Rustoleum Industrial on the rings. Touching up the rings is really easy that way.

I only built up 4 of these wheels. I have a spare that is a bias Irok 36-13.5x17 on a 17x9 soft 8 wheel with 4.75" backspacing. I don't feel the need to have a beadlocked spare and having a 16.5" wheel with no beadlock is asking for trouble since 16.5" wheels need high pressure to keep the tire seated. Having a tire for the same size wheel was actually going to create more problems that it could solve. The critical tire and wheel dimensions are virtually identical and this solution saved me some money with no real compromise in functionality.

I used 1lb of high density airsoft pellets in each of the 4 tires. I figured that as soon as I get mud in the wheels, the pellets would help compensate a bit, and it does. Wheel weights are probably better if you are wheeling in the desert. If you hit mud, the airsoft pellets make the ride home a lot easier.

These things are VERY heavy, but the offroad traction is amazing, they can take a beating, and the price is pretty reasonable.

Bryan.


2007 JK Rubicon Unlimited Rescue Green 6 Speed
Mods Shrockworks Rails & Bumpers, Currie Lift, Tom Woods 1350 driveshafts, 35" Toyo M/Ts on ProComp 7028s
In Progress
To Do
gt3073b is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 03-13-2010, 08:08 PM
Rock God
 
brent_f70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 882
Feedback: 0 reviews

Those look great.....Lots of work but appears to be worth it. Thanks for the write-up!!
brent_f70 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 Old 03-13-2010, 08:13 PM
JKO Addict!
 
TheBeatenPath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: where its hot and sunny
Age: 26
Posts: 5,839
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

lloks like you better be prepared for atleast 36s by running these with iroks


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Everyone else can BLOW themselves cause im bad as FUCK!
TheBeatenPath is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 07-15-2010, 03:43 PM
Granite Guru
 
voodoo206's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Lafayette La
Age: 49
Posts: 244
Feedback: 0 reviews



I LOVE MINE ... WORHTH EVERY PENNY !!
voodoo206 is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 03-30-2011, 11:20 PM
Rock God
 
SCOUT37JK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Age: 41
Posts: 625
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

looking at running this set up on my DD rig. Any balance issues with rims or tires?
can you run the 8 bolt rims with the radial GoodYear's? What shape are the MIl take off tires and how tough are they?

Or would it just be better to run the 12 bolt.

I'm running an 09 JKU (orig. X) d44 front and rear with 5.38 gears 6MT.

thanks for any advice or help.

homebuilt JK - blood, sweat, lemonade. renamed LOOSE NUTS
SCOUT37JK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome