Installing a hitch in a Poison Spyder BFH rear bumper - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 12-27-2014, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Installing a hitch in a Poison Spyder BFH rear bumper

There’s many ways to do this. This was my way. Figured I would share since I have seen many people asking about a BFH with a hitch.

Yes, I know this won’t tow like an F-250 but it does just fine with my little 4X6 utility trailer with BBQ supplies and coolers of beer.

This was completed in two separate phases if you will.

The first phase was just installing the receiver and drilling the holes for the safety chains. A big thanks to my buddy Junnie for welding it up for me.

The second phase I did by myself as a welding project after I bought myself a Millermatic 211.

Phase 1

First, mark the center of the bumper and grind down to bare metal.



Then cut a hole that the receiver tube will drop down in.



Then drop the receiver tube down in the hole. You’ll need to measure the distance between the bumper and the storage tub in the body and cut the receiver to fit. Or you could cut the storage tub if you want.



Fits nice



Weld it up and grind it down



Prime



Paint



Mount



Drill holes to hook safety chains



Phase 1 complete

Everything worked perfectly but I wondered if it needed some reinforcements and I also wanted a welding project since I bought myself a Millermatic 211 and I was sick of welding scrap metal together.

2010 JK - Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel Kit - Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks - 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers - Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier - Poison Spyder Front and Rear BFH Bumpers - Warn M8000 - VKS Fab Sliders - Offroad Evolution Full Skids - Teraflex Sleeves - ARTEC Truss - EVO C Gussets - Synergy Bumpstops - JKS Control Arm Skids - Rigid 10" E-Series Light Bar and SRM Backup Lights - ARB Compressor w/ 5 Gallon Viair Tank - And Much More
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post #2 of 6 Old 12-27-2014, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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So, on to phase 2 – reinforcing the bumper

I looked at this for weeks trying to see the best way to do it. Here’s what I came up with. I’m sure there are many better ways but this way is mine.

First, remove the two rear body mount bolts and measure center to center between the body mount holes. Cut a piece of .120 wall 2” square tubing to span between the body mounts and mark the center to center distance. On one side drill a hole big enough for the threaded portion of the bolt to fit through. On the other side, drill a hole that the socket that fits the body mount bolts will fit through. I simply made a piece of 2” square tubing that would bolt to the rear body mounts.







You can see the piece of square tubing in this pic – the rusted piece of tubing behind the bumper



Now to tie that piece of tubing into the bumper

I cut two piece of 3/16” steel plate to fit on the bottom of the square tubing and lay inside the bottom edge of the bumper. Tacked them in place, then removed the whole assembly and welded all around every joining surface and reinstalled to check for fit. Fits perfect. Now the bumper is tied to the tubing that is bolted to the body mounts.





Now to make this whole thing stronger

I cut 4 pieces of .120 wall square tubing that fit tightly against the piece of tubing that bolts to the body mounts, the rear edge of the bumper, and the pieces of 3/16” steel plate from the last step. Put those in place and weld all mating surfaces of all pieces of metal plate and tubing.









Prime and paint



Reinstall





Reinstall and drink beer.



Hopefully someone will find this useful. I love my BFH bumper but find it necessary to pull a small utility trailer sometimes. This allows me to do so while feeling confident that everything is secure.

2010 JK - Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel Kit - Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks - 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers - Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier - Poison Spyder Front and Rear BFH Bumpers - Warn M8000 - VKS Fab Sliders - Offroad Evolution Full Skids - Teraflex Sleeves - ARTEC Truss - EVO C Gussets - Synergy Bumpstops - JKS Control Arm Skids - Rigid 10" E-Series Light Bar and SRM Backup Lights - ARB Compressor w/ 5 Gallon Viair Tank - And Much More
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-27-2014, 01:12 PM
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How do you pin your hitch in the reciever? Not a lot of room under there.
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-27-2014, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK View Post
How do you pin your hitch in the reciever? Not a lot of room under there.
Not a lot of room but there's enough to reach in and get the pin in. It's tight but it works.

2010 JK - Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel Kit - Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks - 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers - Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier - Poison Spyder Front and Rear BFH Bumpers - Warn M8000 - VKS Fab Sliders - Offroad Evolution Full Skids - Teraflex Sleeves - ARTEC Truss - EVO C Gussets - Synergy Bumpstops - JKS Control Arm Skids - Rigid 10" E-Series Light Bar and SRM Backup Lights - ARB Compressor w/ 5 Gallon Viair Tank - And Much More
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-09-2015, 08:36 AM
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I like this a lot! I may have to do this to mine whenever it needs new powder coat.

2007 JKU AKA CHEEP HEEP. 2.5 rk tripple rates, bilstein long travels, Currie arms,antirock, 35 mtr's, artec truss, redneck ram, ruff stuff tie rod, poly drag link, ten factory front/rear shafts, aussie locker, savvy front bumper, bfh rear
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-20-2015, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon_35 View Post
I like this a lot! I may have to do this to mine whenever it needs new powder coat.
Go ahead and do it then just rattle can it.

2010 JK - Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel Kit - Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks - 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers - Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier - Poison Spyder Front and Rear BFH Bumpers - Warn M8000 - VKS Fab Sliders - Offroad Evolution Full Skids - Teraflex Sleeves - ARTEC Truss - EVO C Gussets - Synergy Bumpstops - JKS Control Arm Skids - Rigid 10" E-Series Light Bar and SRM Backup Lights - ARB Compressor w/ 5 Gallon Viair Tank - And Much More
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