Or-Fab and Poly performance cage install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Or-Fab and Poly performance cage install

I wanted a full cage in my Jeep and really liked the Or-Fab design but they currently do not have a rear cage for the 2 door. A lot of my time jeepin is with my 2 kids in the back so I really wanted full cage protection. I bought a Poly Performance weld in kit for the rear and hoped for the best when trying to install them both together. The Poly kit was well thought out, all the pieces were marked and it welded in place without any modifications at all. I did cut the rockhard harness belt mount from behind my seats and re welded it to the diagonal supports on the poly kit.




Because I thought I might be welding to the Or-Fab kit and I knew I would be bed lining the whole cage I ordered my Or-Fab kit in bare steel. The kit came packaged really well, just like my tire carrier it was completely entombed in this spray expanding foam stuff.


The Or-Fab instructions go into great detail telling you how to remove your hard or soft top, sound bar, plastic trim and sun visors. Pretty basic to take all these off but you will more than likely destroy some of the Christmas tree retaining clips.


Next I measured the distance from the tabs where the top latches to the windshield back to the metal cross bar under the sound bar. You will need to write down these measurements on the driver and passenger sides, so that when you’re finished you can ensure that the windshield is in the correct location.
Next I removed the bars directly above both door openings. Make sure that you disconnect the satellite antenna

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post #2 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Next I removed the windshield wipers and the 6 bolts in the windshield support plate. I also found a new use for the packing foam. Space was tight in my garage and my AEV hood does not have the rubber windshield stoppers so I put the foam packing material under the windshield when I folded it.

Now for the really fun part…..I removed the plastic inserts on the sides of the dash and had to cut out pieces of metal that would be in the way of the new side supports for the cage. Hopefully my pics will help, the ones in the directions are not really clear.
First the driver side. It has 3 sections that must be cut and removed.





once I had all of the pieces trimmed I did a test fit to make sure that the cage had room to slide into place……

looks goo so far…….

Now for the passenger side.

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post #3 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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I marked all the areas that needed to be cut… I also removed the glove box and passenger side speaker, and pulled the wire harness away from the sides.

a little bit of sawzall action….

Here is what I cut out of the bottom section. It was really hard to tell by the instructions but hopefully if you are going to install one of these this picture will help.

Here is what it looked like once all the sections were cut out of the passenger side.

Next I had to trim the edges of the dash. Basically I just trimmed all the overhand off to make the side flush with the tab.


Next it was time to drill the mounting holes in the door pinch seam. I had a small panic attack and was just about to call Or-Fab and tell them they forgot to send my template when I found it inside one of the bars….


To drill the holes you will probably need to remove the door hinges. I marked the holes with a silver sharpe. You will need a 7/16th drill bit to drill the holes in the seam. You will only need to mark and drill the bottom hole if you are mounting the floor tie in kit.

Next I had a brief pause while I sent everything to be rhino lined. I had them do the pieces of the Or-Fab cage before install and then took the whole jeep back the next day so that they could finish it up. With the angles of the cage I thought that it would be best if some parts were sprayed before being installed.
Back from the 1st rhino lining session……time for the install
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post #4 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Lining up and installing the side bolts…

IF INSTALLING THE FLOOR MOUNT PIECES………PUT THEM IN BEFORE YOU PUT THE SIDES IN PLACE!!!!!! The directions say do it the other way but I could not get mine to squeeze in there witht eh side supports in place and had to completely remove the cage and do the floor pieces first.

Once everything was basically in place I used several ratchet straps and a tape measure to line the cage up according to the instructions.



All the blue tape is marking stuff I did not want the rhino liner guy to spray.
Next I had to install the windshield retainer mounts. These are not identical. I mounted them so that the slight bend was pointing down.



Finally together enough to drive to the shop for the rest of the rhino lining…..

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post #5 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Now back and ready to be re-measured and tighten up all the bolts….



Now the long process of putting back in all the trim pieces….. Several pieces had to be cut but the directions were not really clear on where to cut. Hopefully these pictures will help out. I used a sharpie to mark the cuts before I made them…..I had to make several small cuts and test fits.



FINAL CUT…….

Also had to trim the side pieces. This was pretty easy, I just cut the bottoms off.

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post #6 of 35 Old 02-07-2010, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Then re-installed them.



I did have to trim the back of the sound bar for the poly performance cage


This install was easier than the tire carrier install but you will need to pay attention to the small details….Where and how much to cut, measure, measure, and re-measure. I am really pleased with the cage and hope the pictures help you with your install!!!
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post #7 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 06:30 AM
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Thank you Thank you Thank you! I ordered my OR-Fab last week and have been thinking about the poly performance rear! Looks awesome, write-up is much appreciated, I know its time consuming!

I didn't notice the part about bolting the floor mounts to the floor. Anything special there?

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post #8 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 06:31 AM
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Question on drilling holes
Quote:
You will only need to mark and drill the bottom hole if you are mounting the floor tie in kit.
Do you mean, do not drill the bottom hole unless you are installing the floor mount?

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post #9 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 06:45 AM
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Awesome write up. I'm holding out to see the PSC one when it comes out but will definitely be installing one soon. Again great job on the write up.

2012 SLV JK Unlimited Rubicon
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post #10 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 06:54 AM
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I understand why they left the gap (for the sound bar) but I don't really like the design. It looks to me that that would be a major weakpoint in the cage when it should be one of the strongest (where the front and rear cage meet). It doesn't matter how strong the rest of the cage is, that is a very crucial area and how it is designed it looks like it would be prone to bending, especially if it took a direct hit. I am not criticizing you, I think you did a wonderful write-up and I am sure the pictures will greatly help anyone doing the install, I just don't know why Or-Fab would sacrifice so much strength just so that you wouldn't have to trim a small part of the sound bar.

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post #11 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 07:53 AM
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i agree on the sound bar gap, i noticed that too. i think i'm going to come up with something for that. I'll weld some square tubing or plate in that gap i think

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post #12 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Thank you Thank you Thank you! I ordered my OR-Fab last week and have been thinking about the poly performance rear! Looks awesome, write-up is much appreciated, I know its time consuming!

I didn't notice the part about bolting the floor mounts to the floor. Anything special there?
That part was really easy. There is not a lot of room under the jeep to put on the nut and almost no room for a wrench. Luckily they sent these special nuts that grip the bottom of the jeep as you tighten them so I did not need to get a wrench down there. (I have Shrockwork sliders and that cut down on the room under there so if you do not have sliders it may be more open and easier to work down there. If you have PJ sliders or other boat side sliders....GOOD LUCK!! you may have to remove them or cut a hole to get to this nut.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Question on drilling holes


Do you mean, do not drill the bottom hole unless you are installing the floor mount?
Correct. The directions also mention it but you ONLY drill the bottom hole on the template if installing the floor brackets....AND like I said you have to install these 1st before the side pieces or there is not enough room to squeeze them in. The directions say put the side pieces in first and floor pieces last but that will NOT work if yours is as tight as mine was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamAWebb View Post
I understand why they left the gap (for the sound bar) but I don't really like the design. It looks to me that that would be a major weakpoint in the cage when it should be one of the strongest (where the front and rear cage meet). It doesn't matter how strong the rest of the cage is, that is a very crucial area and how it is designed it looks like it would be prone to bending, especially if it took a direct hit. I am not criticizing you, I think you did a wonderful write-up and I am sure the pictures will greatly help anyone doing the install, I just don't know why Or-Fab would sacrifice so much strength just so that you wouldn't have to trim a small part of the sound bar.
[/QUOTE]
I agree to a point....that was one area I did not like when I saw someone else's write up but when you get this and see the thickness of the steel, I think you will be ok with it. You could always modify yours and weld additional steel in there. It is so close to the factory main support that I think it is strong enough??

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post #13 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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another note about weld in front cages vs bolt in.....I thought about welding in parts of the Or-Fab cage but....!!!!
once a weld in cage is set in place up front you will no longer have access to the center dash section via the dash topper. The center bar is too close and you can not lift this topper anymore. Also if you weld one in that blocks the side plates where the Or-Fab ones are you will no longer have access to the sides of the dash for running wires under the hood. Just an additional 2 cents
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post #14 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 08:17 AM
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i'm still not following, i'm sorry. you said
"Correct. The directions also mention it but you ONLY drill the bottom hole on the template if installing the floor brackets."

Drilling the bottom hole in the template or on the door jamb. Looks like you had the four holes in the door jamb which is making me kinda confused on things

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post #15 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
i'm still not following, i'm sorry. you said
"Correct. The directions also mention it but you ONLY drill the bottom hole on the template if installing the floor brackets."

Drilling the bottom hole in the template or on the door jamb. Looks like you had the four holes in the door jamb which is making me kinda confused on things
The template has 5 holes. If you are not installing the floor tie in pieces you only drill the top 4 holes in the jeep. If you are installing the floor tie in brackets you drill all 5.
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post #16 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 08:33 AM
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Gotcha! I was confusing the rock hard cage i think. I've been looking at a cage for days, i think the rock hard was three which was confusing. Sounds good, thanks!

mine should be here in about two weeks, i ordered a raw finish one. Going to paint it white to match my JK. Order the poly one this week.

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post #17 of 35 Old 02-08-2010, 07:46 PM
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OP - Do you have a hard top or soft top? I'm wondering how the soft top will operate with the rear poly cage there. Looks like a tight fit when folding the whole top down.

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post #18 of 35 Old 02-09-2010, 09:12 AM
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Man that looks great
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post #19 of 35 Old 02-09-2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
OP - Do you have a hard top or soft top? I'm wondering how the soft top will operate with the rear poly cage there. Looks like a tight fit when folding the whole top down.
It is close, but the top goes up and down without a problem.

Jason
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post #20 of 35 Old 03-04-2010, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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It is close, but the top goes up and down without a problem.
There is a bend in the bar specifically to clear the soft top bars. Hard to see from the angle of the pics but it is there and is mentioned in the instructions so that you don't put it in backwards..

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post #21 of 35 Old 03-04-2010, 06:01 AM
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thats a great idea

is that bar for the harness part of the poly kit or did you add that in separately because of your seats
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post #22 of 35 Old 03-05-2010, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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thats a great idea

is that bar for the harness part of the poly kit or did you add that in separately because of your seats
That bar was originally part of a custom install similar to the rockhard one. I had the ends cut off of it and welded it to the poly bars. Now I can recline just a little more and I think it added to the strength of the poly kit.
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post #23 of 35 Old 07-22-2010, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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I figured it was about time to cover my roll bars. The factory covers wouldn't work anymore after the new cage. I sent the jeep to an upholstery shop and while it was there I had the rear seat recovered as well. Added MOLLE attachments to the rear seat while they were at it.....






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post #24 of 35 Old 07-23-2010, 07:45 AM
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wow nice interior, im liking the OR-FAB + poly cage combo more and more
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post #25 of 35 Old 07-23-2010, 07:47 AM
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looks nice! what did you use under the material here?



the stock stuff and just wrapped it? The little christmas trees still holding it up?

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