To start, the installation of both the front and rear Poison Spyder Customs Crusher flares (http://www.poisonspyder.com/prod-jkr...sherflares.php
) is something that can be tackled by even a novice Jeeper who has access to basic hand tools along with a little time and patience.
My suggestion is to first install the flares as they come, in bare steel, so that you can ensure a proper fit before you paint or powdercoated them. I chose to have mine powdercoated flame red to match my PSC Rocker Knockers with Sliders as well as my other suspension components. Powder coating isn't as expensive as you may think and is probably 1/3rd the cost of painting them professionally with automotive paint. You can of course use regular rattle can spray paint yourself, which will allow for easy touch ups after you've hit the trail. We don't really get any rust out here in Arizona so I'm not worried about exposed scrapes to the flares and think the powder coat will endure for as long as I need it to.
This installation for me is going to be a replacement to a set of Xenon narrow flat panel flares (1.5" narrower than stock). The Xenon's have worked great for me and I get a lot of compliments about them but I think the PSC steel flares are a part that take the Jeep to the next level. It is also nice to know that Poison Spyder spends a lot of time ensuring that their products meet high quality construction standards and ease of installation while at the same time as a company, providing excellent customer service support.
Currently PSC only sells the Crusher flares in stock width which in my opinion combined with being a flat panel flare, actually 'appears' narrower than they really are, while still providing OEM tire coverage. The pics below show a comparison of the front Xenon flare (passenger side) vs. the PSC Crusher flare (driver's side) as well as a side comparison of the two. The pic below that is a height comparison of the Xenon vs. Crusher flare. You'll notice that the outermost edge of the Crusher flare is higher than the Xenon narrow flare though the taper of the Crusher flare is more compact.
Poison Spyder is also working on an inner support brace kit for the rear Crusher flares that will most likely be available for order by the time you read this. This write-up will not initially include the install of the brace kit but check back for an update when I do. Poison Spyder has commented that even as-is without the brace kit, the rear Crusher flare has more than enough strength to hold up during abuse without crushing in the rear sheetmetal. Of course there is always a scenario where something goes horribly wrong and no flare could prevent body damage.
So let's start the rear Crusher flare installation!
As I mentioned before, I am replacing a set of Xenon narrow flat panel flares. The PSC Crusher flares install very similar to the Xenon flares and both use a majority of the same mounting holes in the OEM sheet metal. The Xenon flares use 1/4" mounting hardware along with nutserts. So if you are like me, you will first need to remove the Xenon nutserts to make way for the PSC nutserts which utilize 3/8" hardware. Here's a comparison pic of one of the Xenon nutserts (left) vs. a PSC nutserts (right).
You'll want to hold the PSC Crusher flare up against the body (with the help of a 2nd person) and locate and then mark each of the mounting holes found along the inner top of the flare. There should be at least 7 holes that line up with existing holes in the body. If there isn't already a hole in the sheet metal where you need it, you'll have to drill one during that step as outlined below.
To get the Xenon nutserts out, I first started with a small diameter drill bit just larger than the screw hole in the nutsert. The idea is to eat enough of the inner material away in order to get a larger diameter drill bit to pop the nutsert out.