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post #1 of 6 Old 11-30-2009, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Bumper Light Brackets

Instructions to fabricate & wire light brackets for front bumper
NOTE: There is Drilling (3) ½” holes into a front brace which aren't seen when completed and would not effect structure, a little bit of Welding, a few Cuts of the front bumper valance (hardly noticed after lights are attached)
I am NOT a good welder -as you'll see in the pics, but the welds are hidden so my shotty work doesn't count
I also am NOT an artist- you'll see that in the diagrams


MATRIALS FOR BRACKET:
24” or more of 2” flat ¼” thick steel
14” or more of 2” x ¼” thick angle iron
Can of black rustoleum / rubberized paint (your preference of finish)
(3) 5/16” x 1.5” fine thread bolts
(3) 5/16” nuts for above bolts
(3) 5/16” lock washers for above bolts
(8) flat washers for above bolts

MATERIALS FOR WIRING:
12guage red & black, and green (or other color)
10guage red & black
40 Amp Relay
15 Amp In-Line Fuse
LED Toggle Switch
Plastic Wire Loom cover
Yellow Wire Connectors (eyelets, female, etc.)
Red Wire Connectors (eyelets, female, etc.)
Wire cutters
Electricians Tape
Black Zip Ties

TOOLS USED:
Angle Grinder with Cutoff Wheel
Flux Core or Mig Welder
Socket Set, extensions help
Wrenches
Right Angle Magnet used for welding
¼” metal drill bit (for starter holes)
½” metal drill bit (for final holes)
Tape Measure
Metal file
SkilSaw to cut plastic valance
Masking Tape to mark cut lines for valance

REMOVING GRILL:
Step 1: Remove grill. Pull the black plastic tabs out of the top then pop it out around the bottom. Twist the parking light sockets out.
Step 2: Remove bumper valance. Using Phillips screwdriver unscrew the 2 plastic screws holding it down, then pop the plastic “clips” out. Pull valance out by tilting it.
Save all tabs, clips, screws- they will be re-used when putting items back on.

BUILDING THE LIGHT BRACKET:
Step 1: Cut 14” of the Angle Iron. Using a cut off wheel on an angle grinder works fine.
Step 2: Find center (7” from either end) and mark. Drill a ¼” pilot hole there. Mark 1” in from both ends and make a pilot hole for those marks too.
Step 3: Make ½” holes from the (3) holes you just made with a ¼” drill bit.
Step 4: Using the (3) ½” holes you just drilled, put the bracket on the lower support in the center. Mark you holes and then remove the angle iron. Drill the (3) holes in the lower support using the pilot hole method as previously done. Pic:

Step 5: Cut 10” of the flat 2” x ¼” thick steel. Do this 2x for 2 “Uprights”

Step 6: Place the flat steel pieces on top of the bottom (side w/ the 3 holes). Mark how close you want them (Depending on the size of your lights this may differ)

Step 7: Using a magnet to hold bracket “upright” flat and square against your angle iron then spot weld. Repeat for other “upright”
Step 8: Test fit to make sure the “uprights” are parallel and at the distance apart to look good and function for your lights.
Step 9: Finish welding around making sure enough weld is put down to keep them from vibrating apart.
Step 10: Cut 1 ½” pieces of the 2” flat steel. Repeat 2x for 2 “light tabs”
Step 11: Spot weld the tabs on top of the “uprights”, making sure they are square and level.
Step 12: Finish welding “light tabs”. I then cut angles on the light tabs for appearance enhancement.

Step 13: Drill ½” holes for your lights to mount through. The size of the hole may vary depending on your lights.
Step 14: Spray rubberized rustoleum for rust protection and appearance enhancement. Other finish could be applied, but that’s what I had laying around. 2 coats is best. Dry.

Step 15: Mount finished brackets to the lower support bar using 5/16” x 1.5 bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers.
Step 16: My bracket hit an “elevated” hole on the lower bracket on the driver’s side. To compensate for this level difference I just added 2 flat washers to each bolt on the center hole and the passenger side hole. This made up the ¼” difference. The washers went between the lower support bracket and the light bracket. For underneath I used a flat washer and lock washer before the nut. Tighten this down real well when you have the bracket in place that you want. PIC:

Step 17: Lay the plastic bumper valance where it should go and using making tape lay it down to make your lines to cut the valance with the saw.
Step 18: Carefully saw the marked area. Use a metal file to get rid of shavings and to make extra room if your fit is too tight.

Step 19: Re-Install the plastic valance. This was a pretty tight job but its pretty tough plastic so don’t worry about splitting it.
Step 20: Re-Install grill.


INSTALLING LIGHTS:
Step 1: Mount lights and run wires through the factory cutouts in the valance towards the grill. Attach to your power and negative wires (unless you still need to run these wires then scroll down).

FINISHED PRODUCT:


CONTINUED BELOW:



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Last edited by IndianaJeep; 12-14-2009 at 03:33 PM. Reason: making directions easier to read
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-30-2009, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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WIRING LIGHTS




WIRING LIGHTS: There are several methods to this. I’ll just share what I used…
Step 1: Remove center instrument cluster. To do this pop off bottom plastic panel by shifter. Pop up the back of the “top dash” then roll it towards seats. Remove 4 torx bolts. Pull (fairly roughly but evenly around) the rest of the plastic.
Step 2: Find driver’s side Power Outlet wiring. This has “Ignition On Power” so it only works when the key is in the “ON” position. Tap into the power wire to this. (can’t remember the colors but NOT the black wire). A red 14g splitter was used and 14guage wire used for all 3 switch wires (since not much power is going through them)
Step 3: Run the wire you just attached up through and towards the left speaker.
Step 4: Remove the side plastic panel by the door. This just pops off- pretty easily.

Step 5: Using a bolt to the fire wall attach a Ground wire there.
Step 6: Run a coat hanger through the fire insulation that is seen at the top of the firewall near the corner. Pull some wire back through.
Step 7: Mark and drill a hole for your switch. I put it just above the speaker. This was a tight fit from behind but needle nose pliers helped.

Step 8: Insert the switch and attach the wires to their appropriate connection. For my switch it was “Earth”= Ground, “Source”= goes to Relay, “Power”= Positive power from Accessory Outlet wire
Step 9: Find location to mount Relay (I used a 40Amp Relay) I placed my on the firewall using a bolt near the battery. I rounded out the hole for the relay just a bit so it would fit.
Step 10: Put plastic cover over wire coming from switch and then mount this along firewall to Relay. Use zip ties to hold wire loom in place to factory wiring.
Step 11: Mount Relay. When doing this I ran the NEGATIVE line (85) right to the bolt I was mounting the Relay to.
Step 12: Using 10 Gauge wire attach 1 end to the POSTIVE terminal of the battery. This wire should contain your 15 Amp In-Line Fuse
Step 13: Attach the switch wire coming from the cab to the (86) terminal of the Relay.
Step 14: Attach the Positive wire from the battery to the (30) terminal of the Relay.
Step 15: Run a 10 gauge red wire to the lights from your relay. Protect this wire with protective plastic also. The positive wires (2 of them) from your lights can be twisted together and than using a yellow connector brought in together with the red wire you just ran.
Step 16: Connect both black wires of your lights with a black 10-gauge wire that is grounded. I grounded the lights to 1 of the bolts used for the above bracket just built.
Step 17: Attach the positive wire from the lights to the Relay using (87) terminal. FINAL RELAY SETUP PIC:




I have control over the use of the lights so long as the ignition is in the “ON” Position. I had to only buy some wire loom protection and connectors but I already had the wires, metal, tools, etc. So based on other similar brackets that go for $60+ I saved nearly $50 and have the enjoyment of building something different and unique…unless you copy the plans- which would be just fine



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Last edited by IndianaJeep; 11-30-2009 at 01:20 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-30-2009, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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ALL PHOTOS AT:
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/5...vhost=outdoors



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Last edited by IndianaJeep; 11-30-2009 at 01:16 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-30-2009, 01:18 PM
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Nice job. Added to the index.

Jason
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-30-2009, 01:20 PM
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hell of a write up

NICE JOB

2008 BLACK Unlimited Sahara
Poly Performance 3"on 35" Xterrains and 15" Soft 8s, Front Pro Rock 44, FLW Front Prerunner, FLW Rear Bumper, FLW Rock Sliders, River Raider Gen2 Snorkel, Superior 5.13s,
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-04-2009, 11:16 AM
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Good write up and clean-looking install.

The Jeepist
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'09 Sahara 4 door sedan - it has a purdy mouth!
'89 XJ built for beatin' RIP

Live life like a dog...if you can't eat it or hump it, piss on it and walk away.
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