Instructions to fabricate & wire light brackets for front bumper
NOTE: There is Drilling (3) ½” holes into a front brace which aren't seen when completed and would not effect structure, a little bit of Welding, a few Cuts of the front bumper valance
(hardly noticed after lights are attached)
I am NOT a good welder -as you'll see in the pics, but the welds are hidden so my shotty work doesn't count
I also am NOT an artist- you'll see that in the diagrams
MATRIALS FOR BRACKET:
24” or more of 2” flat ¼” thick steel
14” or more of 2” x ¼” thick angle iron
Can of black rustoleum / rubberized paint (your preference of finish)
(3) 5/16” x 1.5” fine thread bolts
(3) 5/16” nuts for above bolts
(3) 5/16” lock washers for above bolts
(8) flat washers for above bolts
MATERIALS FOR WIRING:
12guage red & black, and green (or other color)
10guage red & black
40 Amp Relay
15 Amp In-Line Fuse
LED Toggle Switch
Plastic Wire Loom cover
Yellow Wire Connectors (eyelets, female, etc.)
Red Wire Connectors (eyelets, female, etc.)
Black Zip Ties
Angle Grinder with Cutoff Wheel
Flux Core or Mig Welder
Socket Set, extensions help
Right Angle Magnet used for welding
¼” metal drill bit (for starter holes)
½” metal drill bit (for final holes)
SkilSaw to cut plastic valance
Masking Tape to mark cut lines for valance
Step 1: Remove grill. Pull the black plastic tabs out of the top then pop it out around the bottom. Twist the parking light sockets out.
Step 2: Remove bumper valance. Using Phillips screwdriver unscrew the 2 plastic screws holding it down, then pop the plastic “clips” out. Pull valance out by tilting it.
Save all tabs, clips, screws- they will be re-used when putting items back on.
BUILDING THE LIGHT BRACKET:
Step 1: Cut 14” of the Angle Iron. Using a cut off wheel on an angle grinder works fine.
Step 2: Find center (7” from either end) and mark. Drill a ¼” pilot hole there. Mark 1” in from both ends and make a pilot hole for those marks too.
Step 3: Make ½” holes from the (3) holes you just made with a ¼” drill bit.
Step 4: Using the (3) ½” holes you just drilled, put the bracket on the lower support in the center. Mark you holes and then remove the angle iron. Drill the (3) holes in the lower support using the pilot hole method as previously done. Pic:
Step 5: Cut 10” of the flat 2” x ¼” thick steel. Do this 2x for 2 “Uprights”
Step 6: Place the flat steel pieces on top of the bottom (side w/ the 3 holes). Mark how close you want them (Depending on the size of your lights this may differ)
Step 7: Using a magnet to hold bracket “upright” flat and square against your angle iron then spot weld. Repeat for other “upright”
Step 8: Test fit to make sure the “uprights” are parallel and at the distance apart to look good and function for your lights.
Step 9: Finish welding around making sure enough weld is put down to keep them from vibrating apart.
Step 10: Cut 1 ½” pieces of the 2” flat steel. Repeat 2x for 2 “light tabs”
Step 11: Spot weld the tabs on top of the “uprights”, making sure they are square and level.
Step 12: Finish welding “light tabs”. I then cut angles on the light tabs for appearance enhancement.
Step 13: Drill ½” holes for your lights to mount through. The size of the hole may vary depending on your lights.
Step 14: Spray rubberized rustoleum for rust protection and appearance enhancement. Other finish could be applied, but that’s what I had laying around. 2 coats is best. Dry.
Step 15: Mount finished brackets to the lower support bar using 5/16” x 1.5 bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers.
Step 16: My bracket hit an “elevated” hole on the lower bracket on the driver’s side. To compensate for this level difference I just added 2 flat washers to each bolt on the center hole and the passenger side hole. This made up the ¼” difference. The washers went between the lower support bracket and the light bracket. For underneath I used a flat washer and lock washer before the nut. Tighten this down real well when you have the bracket in place that you want. PIC:
Step 17: Lay the plastic bumper valance where it should go and using making tape lay it down to make your lines to cut the valance with the saw.
Step 18: Carefully saw the marked area. Use a metal file to get rid of shavings and to make extra room if your fit is too tight.
Step 19: Re-Install the plastic valance. This was a pretty tight job but its pretty tough plastic so don’t worry about splitting it.
Step 20: Re-Install grill.
Step 1: Mount lights and run wires through the factory cutouts in the valance towards the grill. Attach to your power and negative wires (unless you still need to run these wires then scroll down).