Rock Hard license plate relocation bracket + ORO LED PlateLite install on XRC bumper - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-18-2009, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Rock Hard license plate relocation bracket + ORO LED PlateLite install on XRC bumper

First of all, I have to say that this is a great mod that is inexpensive (under $100) and actually provides some insurance in regards to not having to ever deal with a damaged OEM license plate bracket being damaged.

With that said, the entire install should take you less than 1 hr with simple hand tools and some electrical goodies. Mine took a bit longer as I wanted to hide the wiring for the ORO LED lights since I have a swing out tire carrier (Smittybilt XRC bumper).

I would also like to giver props to eMetal who inspired me on how to run the wiriing through my bumper. The original consensus was to thread a string through the carrier and then use a hair dryer to blow it through to the other end at which time I could tie the end of the string to the wiring and then pull it through. The problem I ran into was that the tubing was completely sealed up and I didn't want to have to drill some huge holes in it just for the install.

I've got a bunch of photos of taking off the OEM license plate bracket but forgot to upload them so I'll do that later for anyone who is interested. It's really just 4 small bolts and a quick tug to get it off. I ended up purchasing the MOPAR license plate bracket filler plug for $13 from my local dealer. The part number is 55397112AA (thanks to Redneckjeep who posted it in another thread a long while back). The hardest part was removing two screw inserts from some holes where the plug fits in. Once those are out, you just pop the plug in.

Here is where I started the Rock Hard relocation bracket install....



What I ended up doing was drilling a couple 5/16" or so holes, one directly below where the wiring ran down where the tire mounts and then another at the end of the swing arm right before where the hinge pin is located.





I used some kite string from one of my kids broken kites as it is a lightweight thread. I then taped a small piece of electrical tape to one end to give it just a tad bit more weight and then threaded it through the first hole. Using my shop vac, I sucked the sting through the other hole. Now mind you, this was simpler said than done. It took me at least a half an hour to do this! Once I did get the string through the other end, I simply taped the end of the ORO wiring to the sting and pulled it all through.






09 Unlimited Rubicon Flame Red
~8.5" TeraFlex LCG Long Arm
~41x14.50 Interco IROK Radials
~20x10 RBP-93R wheels with red inserts
~RCV Performance front D44 CV-style axle shafts
~Posion Spyder Crusher flares, Rock Brawler Bumper, Rocker Knockers w/sliders and Hawse fairlead
~Warn 9.5ti Winch w/synthetic line
~Rhino Lining tub
~Katzkin interior
~10lb Powertank & VIAR Xtreme
~Drake Off-Road billet bling
Check out my build here....
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-18-2009, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Next I removed the passenger side taillight (just two screws on the left side of it, the other 2 screws in the lens are to hold a spacer that wraps around the edge of the Jeep). I did this since it was close and the ORO wiring is only so long and I had to use a couple feet of it inside the spare tire swing arm. This now exposed the taillight wiring which is all you need to wire the ORO LED light. I suggest using some of the wiring splicers I have in the pic below. You don't have to cut any of the OEM wiring (in case you ever need to convert it back) and it's a quick splice.



After some trial and error, I figured out which of the OEM wires do what. The ORO instructions only tell you what their wires do so use my match-ups below using the following naming convention....

OEM COLOR / ORO COLOR / WHAT IT DOES:

White with yellow line / Red / Brake light
White with purple line / Green / Parking lights with license plate late
White with tan line / Black / Ground



Once all the wiring was done and tested, I wrapped it all in electrical tape then put the taillight back together.

And now came the FUN part....putting the spare (40x15.50R20 which must weigh at least 200+lbs) back on over the Rock Hard plate. The plate by the way goes on first over the wheel studs and then you put the tire on. You'll need to remove your center cap if you have one.

What's nice about the ORO Platelite kit is that the wiring comes in two sections with a nice weather-proof connector in the middle. You simply push the two halves together to make the connection.

You can see in the mock-up I did below how everything comes together...






09 Unlimited Rubicon Flame Red
~8.5" TeraFlex LCG Long Arm
~41x14.50 Interco IROK Radials
~20x10 RBP-93R wheels with red inserts
~RCV Performance front D44 CV-style axle shafts
~Posion Spyder Crusher flares, Rock Brawler Bumper, Rocker Knockers w/sliders and Hawse fairlead
~Warn 9.5ti Winch w/synthetic line
~Rhino Lining tub
~Katzkin interior
~10lb Powertank & VIAR Xtreme
~Drake Off-Road billet bling
Check out my build here....
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post #3 of 19 Old 08-18-2009, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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And now the final product:





Running light only....



Just the plate light illuminated...



The LED brake light plus the plate light....



Brake light only....



Everything illuminated....



And some daylight shots...






09 Unlimited Rubicon Flame Red
~8.5" TeraFlex LCG Long Arm
~41x14.50 Interco IROK Radials
~20x10 RBP-93R wheels with red inserts
~RCV Performance front D44 CV-style axle shafts
~Posion Spyder Crusher flares, Rock Brawler Bumper, Rocker Knockers w/sliders and Hawse fairlead
~Warn 9.5ti Winch w/synthetic line
~Rhino Lining tub
~Katzkin interior
~10lb Powertank & VIAR Xtreme
~Drake Off-Road billet bling
Check out my build here....
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-26-2009, 01:42 PM
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Very nice write-up!!! I'll be doing this as soon as my bumper and swingout are made...

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post #5 of 19 Old 11-15-2009, 09:00 AM
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I installed mine this morning. Thanks for doing this. I got mine used and it came with no wiring diagram. I was planning on doing a write up, took pics and all but then I found yours.

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post #6 of 19 Old 11-15-2009, 11:12 AM
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Nice write-up, that thing looks great and seems to work great too....

2007 Jeep Wrangler X, Auto, Hardtop, White, Superchips Flashpaq, 2" OME HD springs, Rusty's Adj. F/R trac-bars, Bilstein Steering Stabilizer, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Rear Swaybar Extensions, PolyPerformance UCAs f/r, Rusty's LCAs f/r, 33x12.5 BFG KM2s, ProComp 15x8 Rockcrawlers, Smitty winch, Body Armor Front Bumper, FLW SS rear bumper, OEM Rubicon Rock Rails, Skid Row Engine and Tranny Skid, Member UFWD & BRC, †John 3:16†
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-16-2009, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrock View Post
I installed mine this morning. Thanks for doing this. I got mine used and it came with no wiring diagram. I was planning on doing a write up, took pics and all but then I found yours.
Thanks Scottrock, I've heard some guys say that my wiring instructions were wrong but they worked for me (pics to prove it)!

09 Unlimited Rubicon Flame Red
~8.5" TeraFlex LCG Long Arm
~41x14.50 Interco IROK Radials
~20x10 RBP-93R wheels with red inserts
~RCV Performance front D44 CV-style axle shafts
~Posion Spyder Crusher flares, Rock Brawler Bumper, Rocker Knockers w/sliders and Hawse fairlead
~Warn 9.5ti Winch w/synthetic line
~Rhino Lining tub
~Katzkin interior
~10lb Powertank & VIAR Xtreme
~Drake Off-Road billet bling
Check out my build here....
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post #8 of 19 Old 11-16-2009, 04:30 PM
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Nice!
looks great man..

Make sure you put some touch up paint on those holes! and personally id dry and fill them somehow...a tiny grommet maybe?
Just a few drops of water and the rusting will start.....(AZ i know but you MIGHT see rain eventually LOL)
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-17-2009, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPTwinz View Post
Thanks Scottrock, I've heard some guys say that my wiring instructions were wrong but they worked for me (pics to prove it)!
Yeah I was one of the folks who found that the 3rd brake light flashed with the right turn signal... something else to try if you find yourself in the same boat, YMMV:

1. Locate the WHITE wire with the BROWN stripe that is part of the bundle that runs to the tailgate (see pics below)

2. Snip this wire near where it enters the woven sheathing and heads to the tailgate.

3. Run the wire down through the plug in the fender so it comes out behind the tail light where you wired in the other two. Now you're ready to go.

Here is the correct wiring (Factory Wiring -> ORO Plate Lite):

BLACK WIRE at factory tail lamp -> BLACK WIRE on ORO harness (this is the ground)
WHITE WITH PURPLE STRIPE at factory tail lamp -> GREEN WIRE on ORO harness (this is the white running light that will come on w/ the headlights)
WHITE WITH BROWN STRIPE that you pulled down from above -> RED WIRE on ORO harness (this is the brake signal)



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post #10 of 19 Old 11-17-2009, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks....more options!

09 Unlimited Rubicon Flame Red
~8.5" TeraFlex LCG Long Arm
~41x14.50 Interco IROK Radials
~20x10 RBP-93R wheels with red inserts
~RCV Performance front D44 CV-style axle shafts
~Posion Spyder Crusher flares, Rock Brawler Bumper, Rocker Knockers w/sliders and Hawse fairlead
~Warn 9.5ti Winch w/synthetic line
~Rhino Lining tub
~Katzkin interior
~10lb Powertank & VIAR Xtreme
~Drake Off-Road billet bling
Check out my build here....
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post #11 of 19 Old 11-23-2009, 09:32 PM
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Well after getting an AWESOME deal on this relocation bracket and reading this thread I was motivated to put my own spin on this type on mod.

Not finished with the mod but liking how it stands now.
I'll be trimming all that extra plastic on the backside tomorrow and wiring the lamp up.










Cheers.

2008 Black Rubicon 2DR.
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post #12 of 19 Old 12-25-2010, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmccurdy View Post
Yeah I was one of the folks who found that the 3rd brake light flashed with the right turn signal... something else to try if you find yourself in the same boat, YMMV:

1. Locate the WHITE wire with the BROWN stripe that is part of the bundle that runs to the tailgate (see pics below)

2. Snip this wire near where it enters the woven sheathing and heads to the tailgate.

3. Run the wire down through the plug in the fender so it comes out behind the tail light where you wired in the other two. Now you're ready to go.

Here is the correct wiring (Factory Wiring -> ORO Plate Lite):

BLACK WIRE at factory tail lamp -> BLACK WIRE on ORO harness (this is the ground)
WHITE WITH PURPLE STRIPE at factory tail lamp -> GREEN WIRE on ORO harness (this is the white running light that will come on w/ the headlights)
WHITE WITH BROWN STRIPE that you pulled down from above -> RED WIRE on ORO harness (this is the brake signal)



Could you cut all the white/brown wire that runs through the tailgate AND the one with the purple stripe, cut the black ground wire, and avoid removing the tail light? I ask because in my head it seems like the white/brown wire that is cut is used for the brake signal, the purple wire is the wire that would usually power the stock license light, and the black is the same ground that runs through the rest of the vehicle...will it work? Anyone done it my way?

I got this for Christmas and am looking to get it mounted up tomorrow before the blizzard hits. Thanks.

1972 Commando on Tons & 40s
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post #13 of 19 Old 12-25-2010, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
Could you cut all the white/brown wire that runs through the tailgate AND the one with the purple stripe, cut the black ground wire, and avoid removing the tail light? I ask because in my head it seems like the white/brown wire that is cut is used for the brake signal, the purple wire is the wire that would usually power the stock license light, and the black is the same ground that runs through the rest of the vehicle...will it work? Anyone done it my way?

I got this for Christmas and am looking to get it mounted up tomorrow before the blizzard hits. Thanks.
Not exactly sure what you're going for. The purple/white wire is for the running lights (red lights that come on in the back regardless of whether or not you're braking) not the stock license plate illumination, though they are obviously controlled by the same switching logic (i.e. they come on when the lights come on).

You can tap in to the brown/white wire instead of cutting it if you want to leave the stock brake light in place, but in any case, you will need one of the running light wires (either to the tail lights or to the stock license plate bracket) if you want to make the license plate illumination work.

If you're really trying to just do the install without removing the stock tail light, you can tap in to them right where I did in my pic before they head down into the void behind the light. But I would have to ask why, since removing the tail light entails all of two phillips head screws...
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post #14 of 19 Old 12-25-2010, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmccurdy View Post
Not exactly sure what you're going for. The purple/white wire is for the running lights (red lights that come on in the back regardless of whether or not you're braking) not the stock license plate illumination, though they are obviously controlled by the same switching logic (i.e. they come on when the lights come on).

You can tap in to the brown/white wire instead of cutting it if you want to leave the stock brake light in place, but in any case, you will need one of the running light wires (either to the tail lights or to the stock license plate bracket) if you want to make the license plate illumination work.

If you're really trying to just do the install without removing the stock tail light, you can tap in to them right where I did in my pic before they head down into the void behind the light. But I would have to ask why, since removing the tail light entails all of two phillips head screws...
I see your point...I figure I'll give it a shot tomorrow and if it works it works, if not I'll phone a friend. I had the lights off a few times now, its not that, I was just trying to figure a way to run through the grommet in the tailgate. But I like the idea of the wiring coming out down below.

1972 Commando on Tons & 40s
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-27-2010, 05:33 PM
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Thanks for the writeup jptwinz...did this yesterday and turned out easier than expected. Figured out the wiring no problem, the second version of the wiring is what worked for me. All I need to complete the process is either Poison license plug/

1972 Commando on Tons & 40s
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-17-2011, 04:44 PM
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OLD THREAD BUMP!

Just did this on my 2012.
made all connections behind the drsd brake light.

FACTORY ORO
BLACK BLACK (ground)
WHITE/ PURPLE STRIPE GREEN (white L plate light)
You'll find the above two wires behind the factory brake light.

WHITE WITH BROWN STRIPE RED (brake light)
You'll find this wire coming out of the tailgate loom next to the hinge. I followed that up just behind the subwoofer. I cut this wire and routed it through the same boot that goes down into/ behind the drsd brake light. Made this last connection with the other two.

Thanks MMCCURDY for the color code and pic on these. It made this installation quite easy and start to finsish only took me 1.5 hours. I would have been done quicker but had to figure out how the sub came apart 1st.

2016 JKU
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post #17 of 19 Old 09-19-2012, 07:03 PM
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Thanks for this thread. I just wired my led today. Finally found the right configuration to get the 3rd brake light working thanks to this.
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post #18 of 19 Old 11-04-2012, 05:23 AM
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I have to see if this will work with my Evo carrier!


Sent from my iPhone 5!

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
D60 Front 99-04 Ford ARB w/ 5.38
14 Bolt rear ARB w/ 5.38
EVO Long Arm
40/42” MTR's
17" Spyderlock Beadlocks
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post #19 of 19 Old 11-12-2012, 03:06 PM
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Thumbs up

Just wanted to thank you guys for the write-up. Did mine this weekend and this thread was a big help!

2010 Rescue Green JKUR
-37” Pit Bulls / Raceline beadlocks
-RJ60 rear / 5.38's / Detroit
-Rubi 44 front / sleeved and trussed / RCV's
-PSC hydro assist / Synergy TR & Drag Link
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