Q: Most inexpensive way to get 37's on a stock 2012 Rubicon 2dr 4.10 Auto JK DD - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Q: Most inexpensive way to get 37's on a stock 2012 Rubicon 2dr 4.10 Auto JK DD

No stupid questions right?

Looking for inexpensive, not cheap. I don't want anything to fall apart on me, cause other issues or decrease performance.

So far the most informative and enjoyable information I've found was planman's write up on 37's... but I'm a noob here, with a specific question after pouring over dozens of similar threads on multiple forums.

I'm buying a 2012 Rubicon 2dr 4.10 Auto and adding a front bumper mounted winch. I want to stay as stock/inexpensive as possible. I know it's a capable vehicle out ofthe box, but I want to have 37" tires +1 mounted spare. This is going to be my DD with mixed hwy/road use. I will be going on Florida and Georgia trails twice monthly, not much rock crawling. But I don't want to lose any ability to rock crawl. One of the main reasons for wanting a Jeep is to make it easier to get to relief work post hurricane/disaster. That will be a rare event, but still, I want something that works but also affordable on a public servant's salary.

I'm planning on making cuts to the stock rocker guard, front bumper and flares.

I'm thinking a Custom Hummer Wheel and Tire combo from Trail Worthy Fab, I like the quality and price. I wish there was some way to mount these without lifting...

I wish I didn't have to lift for this to work, just because I don't want any warranty issues, but 37's will probably be all it takes to void part of the warranty anyhow.. I was looking at Rough Country, but some say that using Rubicon Express may give you a bit less trouble warranty wise.

What lift kits would you all recommend with the 37' Hummer wheels, considering the weight of the front bumper winch and rear spare tire? Maybe I should wait for 2013, my cousins uncles brothers monkey says that 37's will be standard with the 2013 Rubicon 10th Anniversary Cummins diesel model. I'm such a noob, I'm very much expecting to get flamed and reprimanded sternly, I'm not feeling like my brain is understanding anything about Jeep's. Time for a , maybe I'll just stay stock and buy some stickers.
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post #2 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 12:16 PM
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Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1333908887.021106.jpg
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Size:  54.8 KBOME 3"/2.5" (whatever they have) springs and shocks
make sure you get the pressed in centers from TrailFab 3.5" BS or wheel spacers and stock wheels.
you can choose to cut the fenders or not
to be on the safe side cut the pinch weld at the front of the back wheel wells (you can see the line on the rock rail)

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post #3 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot about that pinch weld...thanks!
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post #4 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 06:28 PM
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no worries

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post #5 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 07:48 PM
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One of the Rock Krawler 2.5 kits would serve you well. Check out their site and see what you think.

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post #6 of 27 Old 04-08-2012, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
One of the Rock Krawler 2.5 kits would serve you well. Check out their site and see what you think.
I like them a lot. But the price is the same as a Rubicon Express Standard Suspension Kit.
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post #7 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMedic1343 View Post
my cousins uncles brothers monkey says that 37's will be standard with the 2013 Rubicon 10th Anniversary Cummins diesel model.
Hummm...
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post #8 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 06:29 AM
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Trim your fenders and run a wheel with a 3.5" wheel bs and run 2" more in bump stops, add some 3/4" leveling pucks up front. Trim anything that looks to be in the way. If you are running the retreaded mtr tires they are more like 35.5" in actual mounted diameter and not a true to size like the newer mtr/k tires which are 36.8"
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post #9 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 06:33 AM
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I'm running a rough country 3.5 that comes with the lower control arms and it's served well for the last year with no issues. I have had no problems with warranty stuff at the dealership. Been running 35s with stock bumpers/flares/pinch welds and a winch mounted inside the stock front bumper with no rubbing.. I would imagine with some pinch weld pounding and fender cutting 37s would be possible.

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post #10 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Trim your fenders and run a wheel with a 3.5" wheel bs and run 2" more in bump stops, add some 3/4" leveling pucks up front. Trim anything that looks to be in the way. If you are running the retreaded mtr tires they are more like 35.5" in actual mounted diameter and not a true to size like the newer mtr/k tires which are 36.8"
That's good to know.

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Originally Posted by Mallrat View Post
I'm running a rough country 3.5 that comes with the lower control arms and it's served well for the last year with no issues. I have had no problems with warranty stuff at the dealership. Been running 35s with stock bumpers/flares/pinch welds and a winch mounted inside the stock front bumper with no rubbing.. I would imagine with some pinch weld pounding and fender cutting 37s would be possible.
Possible, but I'm thinking it may open a whole new can of worms. I have to price out a 35" system...
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post #11 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 08:34 AM
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You can do it on 2.5" of lift, cut flares, cut down bumpers, and cut pinch seams.

I would do a 2.5" coil lift like a Rock Krawler Max Travel or 2.5 Flex system. I'll quote it out for you if you'll pm me - it might surprise you what we can do.

If you go with Rough Country you'll be buying another suspension system down the line, I've been there myself. Their coils won't give you a true 2.5" lift in most cases and will sag after a year or so. I love their budget boosts, but I am not a fan of their coils.

You're not asking too much of the JK to put some 37s under it with 2.5" of lift.

Also, I would talk to some folks that had the re-centered Humvee wheels to get real world daily driven feedback on them. Beadlocks can be hard to balance is all I'm getting at.


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post #12 of 27 Old 04-09-2012, 11:19 AM
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If you go with Rough Country you'll be buying another suspension system down the line, I've been there myself. Their coils won't give you a true 2.5" lift in most cases and will sag after a year or so. .
I'll second that. I had to swap out my RC coils, the rear's really sagged badly. Went with the RK 3.5 X kit and could not be more pleased.

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post #13 of 27 Old 04-15-2012, 06:04 PM
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Rock Krawler all the way you won't be disappointed.

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PSC BFH front and rear, Warn 9.5cti with viking synth line, Rigid duallys, RROR full skid,
RK 2.5 max travel pro with RRDs, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Tera 44 front, Tera 60 rear with 4.88s
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-15-2012, 06:29 PM
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You read my write-up.

2.5" lift with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and 1" front extended bumpstops
Flat flares
1" body lift

4.5" or less backspaced wheels
Adjust steering stops

Regear
Programmer to recalibrate speedometer
Front axle truss or sleeves with C gussets

Rear tire carrier. Maybe the OR-Fab.
Stubby front bumper

To save $:

Sell your stock tires and wheels

And...

Buy used wheels and tires

Or...

Buy steel wheels

Or...

Buy inexpensive aluminum wheels like the Blackrock 909s

And...

Do not buy load range e tires to run on a 2 dr. They are too stiff.





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post #15 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FireMedic1343 View Post
Maybe I should wait for 2013, my cousins uncles brothers monkey says that 37's will be standard with the 2013 Rubicon 10th Anniversary Cummins diesel model.


I just LOLed so hard I shat myself...


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post #16 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
You read my write-up...
That was an awesome write up! The point of this post was to try to make this more affordable. Thanks for addressing those issues.

I like the price of those wheels you posted, it's now on my very short list. What do you think about Trail Worthy wheels, 3.5" backspacing with Guard Dogs?
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post #17 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMedic1343 View Post
That was an awesome write up! The point of this post was to try to make this more affordable. Thanks for addressing those issues.

I like the price of those wheels you posted, it's now on my very short list. What do you think about Trail Worthy wheels, 3.5" backspacing with Guard Dogs?
Thanks.

I think those tires would be too stiff to run on a 2 dr unless you run very, very heavy armor.

If you really wanted to go economical, you'd buy most everything used, trim your own flares flat, and cut your front bumper into a stubby.

You'd buy a pair of already regeared and sleeved Rubicon axles and sell yours to offset the cost.

Used tires/wheels and parts sell for about 1/2 of new.

I did mine with:

$400 TF BB w/o shocks
$100 Skyjacker Hydro shocks net of rebate
$120 MORE body lift

Sold stock wheels and tires for $750

Steel wheels and 5 tires for about $1800

Regear was about $1300

Installed the sleeves and gussets during our local 4x4 club mod day to save labor cost.

Superchips was about $300.

I bought a pair of display bumpers (rear had a tire carrier) at EJS for less than the cost of a new rear bumper/tire carrier.

Relocated the EVAP for almost nothing with parts from local hardware store.

I ran a Warn M8000 winch for $500 new.

I found a pair of front take-off 4 dr Rubicon springs to get rid of the front sag after adding the winch and steel front stubby bumper.

I did buy a Rock Hard engine skid and used a Rock Hard EVAP skid.

I did buy Xenon flat flares but ended up taking them off and using trimmed stock flares instead.


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Last edited by planman; 04-16-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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post #18 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by planman View Post
Thanks.

I think those tires would be too stiff to run on a 2 dr unless you run very, very heavy armor.

If you really wanted to go economical, you'd buy most everything used, trim your own flares flat, and cut your front bumper into a stubby.

You'd buy a pair of already regeared and sleeved Rubicon axles and sell yours to offset the cost.

Used tires/wheels and parts sell for about 1/2 of new.

I did mine with:

$400 TF BB w/o shocks
$100 Skyjacker Hydro shocks net of rebate
$120 MORE body lift

Sold stock wheels and tires for $750

Steel wheels and 5 tires for about $180

Regear was about $1300

Installed the sleeves and gussets during our local 4x4 club mod day to save labor cost.

Superchips was about $300.

I bought a pair of display bumpers (rear had a tire carrier) at EJS for less than the cost of a new rear bumper/tire carrier.

Relocated the EVAP for almost nothing with parts from local hardware store.

I ran a Warn M8000 winch for $500 new.

I found a pair of front take-off 4 dr Rubicon springs to get rid of the front sag after adding the winch and steel front stubby bumper.

I did buy a Rock Hard engine skid and used a Rock Hard EVAP skid.

I did buy Xenon flat flares but ended up taking them off and using trimmed stock flares instead.


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I thought your knowledge on Jeeps was impressive. Dude, your deal hunting skills make me feel like I could do this without going broke.

I really need to join my local club, I've already emailed them. Hopefully they have a Florida equivalent of a planman!

I'm going to have to get on the lookout for good used gear. I bet there are tons of people who buy stuff and never even put it on.
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post #19 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 06:19 PM
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Oops. Add a 0 for $1800 on tires/wheels.



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post #20 of 27 Old 04-16-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Oops. Add a 0 for $1800 on tires/wheels.



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No biggie, I know what you meant. Otherwise we'd be going into business reselling tires/wheels!
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post #21 of 27 Old 04-17-2012, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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...Front axle truss or sleeves with C gussets...
This is a must for wheeling?

Quote:
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...2.5" lift with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and 1" front extended bumpstops
Flat flares
1" body lift...
If I follow this suggestion, will I need to change the drive shaft?
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post #22 of 27 Old 04-17-2012, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMedic1343 View Post
This is a must for wheeling?



If I follow this suggestion, will I need to change the drive shaft?
The sleeves and gussets are cheap insurance against bending am axle housing and the Cs.

I would say at least gusseting the upper Cs is almost necessary for 37s wheeling locked. Teraflex has a very affordable gusset for the upper Cs.

With 2.5" lift, you won't need a rear driveshaft. Because you have an automatic, you may eventually need a front, depending on how long a shock you run.

The automatics have a transmission pan that gets close to the rubber/plastic stock driveshaft boot when the suspension is fully articulated with longer shocks.

If you tear the boot, you rip/cut off any flapping pieces and continue to run with a partial or no boot until enough dirt gets in there mixed with residual grease to squeak more than you can bear. It could take a year or more for this to happen before you eventually feel a need to replace the front driveshaft.

If you run a taller lift on a 2 dr, plan on new driveshafts both front and rear much sooner.

So yes, a 2.5" lift will allow you to prioritize funds towards other upgrades instead of on driveshafts.


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post #23 of 27 Old 04-18-2012, 11:45 PM
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you can also fix the factory boot with some very stylish fire hose material and some large hose clamps. I'll snap a photo of what my buddy did on his.

(the hard part is finding and cutting an old fire hose)

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post #24 of 27 Old 04-19-2012, 05:20 AM
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you can also fix the factory boot with some very stylish fire hose material and some large hose clamps. I'll snap a photo of what my buddy did on his.

(the hard part is finding and cutting an old fire hose)
Nah, they are all over in commercial buildings.

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post #25 of 27 Old 04-19-2012, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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you can also fix the factory boot with some very stylish fire hose material and some large hose clamps. I'll snap a photo of what my buddy did on his.

(the hard part is finding and cutting an old fire hose)
Post them up! I work at a big department, so I might be able to get some old hose that's not serviceable.

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Nah, they are all over in commercial buildings.
Oh no...
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