N00b Question: How to Run 33s? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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N00b Question: How to Run 33s?

First off before anyone says it: I did search already but with so many options and opinions I am not 100% sure options I picked will really work for me.

Here's my goal:

33in tires (TSL SXIIs... Specifically model SX2-55 which is 33x9.5 r17)
Stock 17in aluminum wheels
Coyote air type bead locks
Minimum lift possible (Jeep already has a pretty high COG and I don't need it flipping over)
Corrected speedo
Maintain use of stock rear tire carrier
No change to turning radius and little to no impact to articulation
Would like to change fenders both for increased durability (already damaged one of the stock plastic ones) and better clearance

So far I know I will need:
5 Interco SX2-55 tires
Electronic speedo calibrating doohicky like this one: AEV ProCal Module - JK Speedometer Recalibration
Set of 4 beadlocks like these https://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/C...n=STNCEB1779-4 (not bothering with spare for the moment).


Questions I still have:
Do I need to beef up rear tire carrier somehow to support additional weight?
How do I relocate the rear brake light that over the tire to clear the new larger size tire?
Will the larger tire clear a typical aftermarket rear bumper (definitely looks like it will NOT clear stock bumper but I will be changing that out anyway)?
If I run 1.5 or 2in coil spacers do I have to do any modifications to the driveline (ie SYE or something)?
Will such a small lift with 33s cause rubbing with stock or aftermarket fenders (curious about both in case I decide to do tires before fenders... Metal tube fenders look really nice but also pretty costly)?
What are my options for wheel spacers and is my steering beefy enough to handle increased scrub radius in addition to larger tires (I have 2in adapter spacers on another vehicle to run a nice set of wheels I got for free and it did wonders for stability off road... Would sort of like something similar for Jeep)?
Anyone see any issues with what I THINK I need so far?

Thanks!

EDIT: Forgot to include some info.

Jeep is a 2012 2dr Rubicon
Motor is 3.6
Transmission is manual 6 speed

Current tires and wheels (sorry about the mud... Just went wheeling and when I went to my usual self service car wash yesterday I found they had torn it down for some reason):


Here is the Jeep as it sits now (again sorry about the mud):

Last edited by duncanstives; 04-10-2018 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Forgot to add some info
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 08:26 AM
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That tire size should just slap on with nothing else needed. Its barely bigger then the stock tires and is narrow where most do a wider tire around 12.5" that really creates issues. Your current tire carrier should be fine for the new size since you are so close to stock size. your speedometer will only be off by a slight bit and I would not even worry about correction.

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post #3 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 10:06 AM
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Do I need to beef up rear tire carrier somehow to support additional weight?
Yes and no. If you're going to be wheeling I would advise at least looking into the HD tailgate hinge/body mount type carriers.

How do I relocate the rear brake light that over the tire to clear the new larger size tire?
With a 33 you probably won't need to relocate it.

Will the larger tire clear a typical aftermarket rear bumper (definitely looks like it will NOT clear stock bumper but I will be changing that out anyway)?
Most aftermarket bumpers have more clearance than the stockers, don't worry about it.

If I run 1.5 or 2in coil spacers do I have to do any modifications to the driveline (ie SYE or something)?
No, the driveline angles will be acceptable. If you go for a longer shock I would advise looking into exhaust spacers.

Will such a small lift with 33s cause rubbing with stock or aftermarket fenders (curious about both in case I decide to do tires before fenders... Metal tube fenders look really nice but also pretty costly)?
It right cause very slight rubbing on the stock fenders if you don't add a small bump stop extension, but only at full compression(ie. wheeling). With aftermarket flares you won't need bump stop extensions.

What are my options for wheel spacers and is my steering beefy enough to handle increased scrub radius in addition to larger tires (I have 2in adapter spacers on another vehicle to run a nice set of wheels I got for free and it did wonders for stability off road... Would sort of like something similar for Jeep)?
The best wheel spacers out there are SpiderTrax, G2, Synergy MFG. Look for 1.5" spacers, they are the most common size and put the backspacing at 4.75" which is great for 33s. Steering should be fine with 33s, might want to look into a better tie rod if wheeling in the rocks (stocker bends like a wet noodle lol).

Anyone see any issues with what I THINK I need so far?
Looks like a good plan. You would be able to get away with no lift, flat fenders and 33s if you wanted really low CG. But a small level wouldn't hurt.

'15 JKU/ 3" Synergy MFG Stage 2/ Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP/ 35" KM2/ 4.56 Yukon Gears/ Currie Rock Jock 44/ ARB Locker/ Adams 1310/ VKS Fab/ Evo MFG
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I now realize my stock tires are larger than I thought at about 32 inches.

This is making me 2nd guess my plan... Seems like 33in pizza cutters will not give me as large a performance boost as I was hoping given that I am pretty close to 33 now... Adding beadlocks and airing way down may very well put my new clearance LOWER than what I can achieve now (though obviously I will have a greatly improved contact patch).

Now I have a dilemma... Do I:
A. Go with a larger 35 to gain more clearance while keeping the pizza cutter width (10in instead of 9.5 in the case of the TSL SX II but still pretty narrow) and still get the tire I want?
B. Go with a 33 in a wider size like 12.5 but NOT get the exact tire I want (the SXII does not come in 33x12.5xr17)... This will mean my clearance stays the same but gives me a boost in contact patch which might offset the lack of clearance in some situations.
C: Go with the tires I was planning and get some 2in coil spacers for a little more clearance under everything except the axles themselves.
D. Some combination of the above?

I like the idea of the 35in TSL SX II... I used to have some TSLs on another rig and they were AWESOME offroad until I cut one on the sidewall... Hence the SX with greater sidewall protection. They also kinda sucked on road in the wet hence the SX II with sipping which should help.

What would it take to run the 35s on my Jeep? I am ok with fender replacement (thought I'd have to anyway) and actually kinda want a 2.5in/2in front/rear coil spacer anyway to level it out once i add a winch (I know I said minimum lift possible but I did not realize NO LIFT would even be an option) but I don't wanna change gearing or anything major and I don't want the Jeep to be turned into a dog either.

Thanks again.
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks SilverBullet.

Your reply came in while i was typing. I am now leaning toward 35s in similar width since I didn't realize the OD of my current tires was as big as it is... Seems like for the money it'd be nice to get a little bigger boast in performance than I would get from a 1 inch larger tire.

35in TSL SX II in 10in width would give me a little bigger boast in clearance so I am now thinking:
5 TSX2-70 (35x10xr17)
4 Coyote Enterprise air type beadlocks
Speedo chip
2.5/2.0in front/rear spacers (this kit comes with shock mount extensions: https://www.amazon.com/RTZ-Wrangler-...oil+spacer+set)
Flat, tube style fenders
Rear brake light relocation of some sort
Tire carrier beefing up/upgrade of some sort

My concern with this is gearing... Jeep gets up and goes pretty decently now and I don't want it to feel like a clapped out Suzuki Samurai when it takes off but I don't wanna re-gear either (been there, done that, its a PITA and having someone do it costs an arm and they'll probably break my Jeep).
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 03:57 PM
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Performance is subjective. Some don't mind poor performance because they don't want to re-gear and will tell you it is fine. Others like me feel proper gearing is on of the best things you can do. If you have 4.10 gears now then I would think you would be ok with the 2012. 3.73 might feel like a dog. Maybe you can find one locally that has done 35's with the gearing you have and let you drive it so you can see but anytime you go up in tire size your perforce is going to go downhill. You can run 35's stock suspension with flat fenders and 2" of bump stop but most people will do a 2" lift to keep the same amount of up travel as stock.

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post #7 of 9 Old 04-10-2018, 04:22 PM
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Like Dirtman said, if you have the 4.10 gears you'll probably be fine without regearing with 35s. You can definitely run a 35 with a level, you'll just need 2" bumps.

Might want to go with a kit like this, https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/0...-kit-no-shocks because the bumpstops are already included and it's a well known brand.

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post #8 of 9 Old 04-11-2018, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

Kit looks great and its reasonably priced. Only thing I might do is substitute the front 2 spacers for slightly thicker ones to account for additional weight of winch on the front and keep it level.

Can someone explain the bump stop thing? I have seen it referenced several places now but I am not 100% sure what is being done or why.

I assumed it was simply a matter of lowering the bump stops but since I am not changing anything on the chassis of the vehicle and am INCREASING the distance between the axles and the rest of the Jeep the likelihood of HITTING the bump stop would be reduced in a given situation but the axles still could not hit anything vital or damaging because the relative positions of the bump stops and everything they could hit remains unchanged. Is it simply a matter of preventing the spring from being over-compressed and damaged or am I totally wrong about what is being done?

Also if I move the axles 2in farther from the frame using a solid puck but keep the springs exactly the same (meaning I have potentially increased my possible up travel by 2in if, for the sake of argument, we ignore the possibility of over compressing the springs). If I now lower the bump stop by the same amount I lifted the Jeep it seems I should have reduced my up travel (and thus total articulation because droop does not seem like it should change) back to the unmodified value not to something less?

I understand that of course there is a limit to simply sticking solid spacers in... At some point the driveline angles will get too steep, the pinion angle on the axle will be unacceptable and the altered geometry will cause the squat and anti-squat to get totally jacked up possibly making the Jeep to be undrivable. While all of these things would be bad I wouldn't expect them to reduce total articulation... I am sure I am just misunderstanding some aspect of this modification but its got me confused.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-11-2018, 08:06 AM
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You are correct on bump stops limiting articulation, thats what they are there for. You need them due to the increase in tire size and depending on your shocks they are needed to prevent bottoming out of the shocks which in the end determine your articulation amount. Typically running a 2" lift with 2" of bump stop will allow you to run a 10" travel shock which may allow you to increase travel as long as your coils+spacer are longer then the extended length of the new longer body shocks.

About 90% of the lifted jeeps out on the road are not set up correctly with lift/shocks/bump stop/ and tire size since they just throw on what is in the box and never take the time to articulate the suspension and get the proper components to maximize articulation. Most new people that lift end up with less articulation then stock because they don't do this.

You might want to click on that red link in my signature for some more reading on lifts.

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Last edited by thedirtman; 04-11-2018 at 08:28 AM.
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