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post #1 of 23 Old 05-03-2016, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Lowest pressure no beadlocks

Quick question on a subject that has been beaten to death.

What's the lowest pressure I can safely run in the rocks with no beadlocks?

Been running 13 front/11 rear and would like to go lower but I don't want to risk popping a bead

My setup
2 door
37" MTR/K
3" lift
Bushwacker flares
Soft doors
No spare (my friend carries one)
Fairly light, no back seat, minimal gear, rock hard engine skid
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post #2 of 23 Old 05-03-2016, 06:45 PM
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Stock width rims? If so, I'd go to 10 (but I carry a spare and all the shit to fix any fixable tire).

White13JKUR ran like 4 or 6 psi on stock rims (I wouldn't, but I don't think he had any problems).

It also depends on how gnarly of situations you mean by "in the rocks".
Don't run flat tires in a rock garden just for bragging rights if you're going to cost your friends time by breaking shit unnecessarily.

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post #3 of 23 Old 05-04-2016, 05:21 AM
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Run 10 all around

have gone lower but I have never had an issue, burped, or lost a bead at 10.

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post #4 of 23 Old 05-04-2016, 05:27 AM
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I usually run 10 and go down to 8 if I need a little more
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post #5 of 23 Old 05-04-2016, 07:37 AM
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On my YJ I run 8 normally and 6 when snow wheeling. 8" wide steelies and 35x12.5x15 Pitbull Rocker Radials. The Pitbulls have a pretty stiff sidewall though.

On my JK I run 10-12 on the stock Rubi wheels and tires.
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post #6 of 23 Old 05-04-2016, 11:08 AM
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I had those tire too and when I went under 10 I usually popped a bead. Just get some beadlocks, you wont regret it.
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post #7 of 23 Old 05-04-2016, 01:59 PM
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I run 10-12 psi all the time on lvl8 strike5 wheels (both 16" & 17") with 35" STT Cooper's as well as 37" KO2s . Never caused more than me plopping-up onto a rock successfully and staying glued there like I had four wads of gum on each corner....


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post #8 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I'll give 10 a try.

Would it be smart to run 8 in the back or would I be looking for trouble?
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post #9 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtljeep View Post
Thanks guys, I'll give 10 a try.

Would it be smart to run 8 in the back or would I be looking for trouble?
if ya carry a spare,you'll not have to care what we think ...I get debris between bead and wheel when I go lower than 10. I want bls but all this other shit costs a f*ckload so it gets bumped down list ...i am of opinion that you can go lower on non bls than 9-10psi only if you don't give it gas and turn at the same time. Think about that for a minite. Yeah, stick to 10


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post #10 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
if ya carry a spare,you'll not have to care what we think ...I get debris between bead and wheel when I go lower than 10. I want bls but all this other shit costs a f*ckload so it gets bumped down list ...i am of opinion that you can go lower on non bls than 9-10psi only if you don't give it gas and turn at the same time. Think about that for a minite. Yeah, stick to 10
I'm seconding j3ff3ry's advice here. MTR/Ks bag out pretty nicely at 10 PSI.

Now Nitto TGs on the other hand - those fookin' side walls barely budge at 10.

10 should give you good grip and a nice ride quality, and should be safe.
Try 10 and figure out if you need to go any lower. You can always air down further to experiment.

(Wait . . . y'all have a compressor in your group, right? If not, )
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post #11 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
I'm seconding j3ff3ry's advice here. MTR/Ks bag out pretty nicely at 10 PSI.

Now Nitto TGs on the other hand - those fookin' side walls barely budge at 10.

10 should give you good grip and a nice ride quality, and should be safe.
Try 10 and figure out if you need to go any lower. You can always air down further to experiment.

(Wait . . . y'all have a compressor in your group, right? If not, )
I have yet to really find a sweet spot from my Nitto's. I'm pretty sure 15 isn't it . Any recommendation on those that are running them.

No bead locks here either.

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Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Subsection 2. - Are you a fucking retard? Get the fuck off JKO and tell her you want to hold her like a bowling ball while she gobbles your Wife's kitty like a hungry Asian. Jesus, since when did Men need advice for shit like this?
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post #12 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 05:22 PM
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I'm running 37 nitto mud grapz with an e rating on my 2 door and they hardly squat at 10 lbs. most time I end up going to 8 in the back and it gives them a bit of flex. Tbh I usually ride home without airing up too. It's about 10 miles or so. Yolo.
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post #13 of 23 Old 05-05-2016, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartj17 View Post
I have yet to really find a sweet spot from my Nitto's. I'm pretty sure 15 isn't it . Any recommendation on those that are running them.

No bead locks here either.
On load range E Trail Grapplers, 15 is a lot closer to 50 than it is to 10.
On factory width rims or narrower, start at 12, then try dropping to 10, maybe even 8. Find your own "sweet spot".
On wider rims, those stiff sidewalls might unseat a bead with inadequate air pressure.
Here are some pics of Trail Grapplers at 11 and 8.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Staun tire deflators were set to 11 psi, and this just wasn’t going to cut it with these load range E tires. All the tires are down at 11 in this picture.



Thaaaat’s more like it . . .
Tire deflators are now set at 8 psi, nice and squishy.
And here's another pic of 8 PSI - I could go lower with beadlocks, but 8 did what I needed:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
The load range E Nitto Trail Grapplers gave us a super-cushy ride and flawless traction at 8 PSI.
9 PSI would probably be fine, but I'm not dicking around with re-calibrating my deflators, so 8 it is.

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post #14 of 23 Old 05-06-2016, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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I know beadlocks are the ultimate insurance however I'd like to be able to find a good balance between traction and ground clearance with normal wheels.

4psi gives grest traction but I don't want to be getting hung up. Hence the reason for the 37's.

Maybe 40's with beadlocks are the solution. Huge investment with everything that goes with it though!
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post #15 of 23 Old 05-06-2016, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
On load range E Trail Grapplers, 15 is a lot closer to 50 than it is to 10.
On factory width rims or narrower, start at 12, then try dropping to 10, maybe even 8. Find your own "sweet spot".
On wider rims, those stiff sidewalls might unseat a bead with inadequate air pressure.
Here are some pics of Trail Grapplers at 11 and 8.



And here's another pic of 8 PSI - I could go lower with beadlocks, but 8 did what I needed:
huh. For some reason ,Ex, I'd not noticed the super nice black TR bls your rig has. Jealous of your shoes,mate.


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post #16 of 23 Old 05-06-2016, 12:05 PM
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I guess I should really get some TR's..... I've got other things to upgrade though. Like Armor

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Subsection 2. - Are you a fucking retard? Get the fuck off JKO and tell her you want to hold her like a bowling ball while she gobbles your Wife's kitty like a hungry Asian. Jesus, since when did Men need advice for shit like this?
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post #17 of 23 Old 05-06-2016, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartj17 View Post
I guess I should really get some TR's..... I've got other things to upgrade though. Like Armor

same boat sympathizer ,Hartj. I just regeared ,lockered, those pushed the TnT corners back then I busted the overdue to be changed ujoints and unitbearings a few weeks ago which reminded me that the backs aren't a good fuse so I spent the $$$ for some 4340 axleshafts ....on...and....on....poor cheap level8 wheels ain't gonna get any easier treatment but soon, I tell myself , I will have some TrailGear beadlocks ....(yeah, right ...)


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post #18 of 23 Old 05-06-2016, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
huh. For some reason ,Ex, I'd not noticed the super nice black TR bls your rig has. Jealous of your shoes,mate.
Thanks j3ff3ry!

Trail Readys are the only beadlocks with which I have significant experience, and I've found zero reasons to look at others.
Cast and machined in USA (see the blue line in my sig.) + solid value for the money = hands-down winner in my book!

I ordered 'em bare for 3 reasons:

  • to save money (every little bit helps . . .)
  • 'cuz they were going to get F'd up a bit anyway
    and
  • to be a fahhrkin' sneaky bastage (I love's me some sneaky )

So, I basically have the opposite of fake beadlocks: all go, no show
If random folks think my Heep is just a ratty piece of shit with F'd up rear fenders, I'm totally cool with that.

Here's the materials and methods I used to un-bling them (starting at 2nd pic): Rim painting, Oddball Style

I re-shoot 'em before a wheeling trip so I have indicators of what areas to check afterwards, then I only check the rashed bolts.

PLEASE BUY AMERICAN SO I DON'T HAVE TO LEARN CHINESE
The 4th little pig made his house of reinforced concrete, with wolfskin rugs in every room

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post #19 of 23 Old 05-07-2016, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Stock width rims? If so, I'd go to 10 (but I carry a spare and all the shit to fix any fixable tire).

White13JKUR ran like 4 or 6 psi on stock rims (I wouldn't, but I don't think he had any problems).

It also depends on how gnarly of situations you mean by "in the rocks".
Don't run flat tires in a rock garden just for bragging rights if you're going to cost your friends time by breaking shit unnecessarily.
Sorry I missed this..... BAH!!!! 10psi is belter utilized when blown into the motor!

I miss my stock rims with MTR/k 37's. That was a good setup. Those things never saw double digits off-road. I ran 6-8 psi regularly off road and have had zero issues. No burps, no spun tires and no bent rims (still have them and they are dismounted now for full inspection).

What makes MTR/s nice in this scenario is that they have a super thick bead and soft sidewalls. Crazy grip. I will have to look around but I have some pics of them all scrunched down where I am trying to blow a bead.

FWIW, I have an ARB twin pump on board as well as the ARB patch kit and carry a spare. I also was lucky enough to whiteness an film someone reseat a bead using a can of carb cleaner and a lighter. The experience only emboldened me even more to run low PSI and carry a can of carb cleaner.

Now I am on Nitto 37s mounted to trail read bead locks, much like Ex and air down to the same levels, I don't get as much flex or ballooning with the Nittos.

My rock rings are pretty blingy. I didn't realize they would be polished when i ordered them but I plan to R&R the rings for painting them black.

Last edited by White13JKUR; 05-07-2016 at 10:05 AM.
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post #20 of 23 Old 05-07-2016, 06:30 PM
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I was running 10psi in my 37x14r15 bias iroks last time i went out and popped two beads in a row. One in a mud hole and the other going up a hill. Hit the wall in the hole & exiting the ruts on the hill on the other.

Needless to say, I'm putting beadlocks on now and gonna run @ 5.

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post #21 of 23 Old 05-08-2016, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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How much ground clearance do you lose going from 10psi to 5psi? Is it negligible? Around here, 37's have a big advantage over 35's since there are alot rocks no matter what line you take
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post #22 of 23 Old 05-09-2016, 11:14 AM
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Fixing a busted bead on the trail.

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post #23 of 23 Old 06-01-2016, 05:02 AM
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[COLOR="Silver"][QUOTE=ExWrench;3869522]Thanks j3ff3ry!

Trail Readys are the only beadlocks with which I have significant experience, and I've found zero reasons to look at others.
Cast and machined in USA (see the blue line in my sig.) + solid value for the money = hands-down winner in my book!

I ordered 'em bare for 3 reasons:

  • to save money (every little bit helps . . .)
  • 'cuz they were going to get F'd up a bit anyway
    and
  • to be a fahhrkin' sneaky bastage (I love's me some sneaky )

So, I basically have the opposite of fake beadlocks: all go, no show
If random folks think my Heep is just a ratty piece of shit with F'd up rear fenders, I'm totally cool with that.

Here's the materials and methods I used to un-bling them (starting at 2nd pic): Rim painting, Oddball Style

I re-shoot 'em before a wheeling trip so I have indicators of what areas to check afterwards, then I only check the rashed bolts.


That right there is the separator between a wheeler of a Jeep versus an owner /enthusiast ( notice I didn't say poseur?) of a Jeep.
Function over form. You have to have a tiny-idea of how awesome it be to see very practical knowledge applied & a useful tip that me & my OCD had not heard-of nor figured-out on my own yet.
I have paint-penned all nuts/bolts forever ;I hadn't thought of this post trail, wheel damage quick assessment tip.
gratis,dude!

Oh, btw your rig is FAR from ratty or tatty - not that you care- but i have always thought it looks quite awesome & unique in its understated functional design .
But fuck that panty wasted sh*t ; what matters is that you built it to FCKNRUNIT!


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