Raceline Monsters -- AL or ST Lock Ring? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-19-2015, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Raceline Monsters -- AL or ST Lock Ring?

Got a Raceline "Buy 3, Get 1 Free" card through Cal4Wheel, but it expires the end of the year, so I'll probably be springing for a set of Raceline Monsters soon.

So . . . I'd like to hear your thoughts on steel vs. aluminum for the lock ring. I understand the inherent differences of the materials themselves, just looking for practical issues to consider with each for legitimate trail use, not mall crawling.

Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 07:31 AM
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I wheeled on a lot of granite with my Raceline beadlocks in Arizona before recently relocating to AR, and I'm partial to aluminum rings.

Yes, they are softer than steel, but they won't rust. Stayed with the "natural" aluminum rings rather than painted or powder coated because they can be gouged up and still keep their look.

Haven't yet had to replace a ring, and while some aluminum gets pushed up against the grade 8 bolts holding the ring, it will be easy to clean them up with a dremel tool and carbide burr bit in order to get a socket over the bolts.

Planning to move into D60's which will require an 8 bolt wheel, and will be doing the same aluminum ring.
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post #3 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 09:30 AM
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We run the alu. rings on our JK and haven't had an issue. We do have a customer that ran the steel rings and we had issues with the tires holding air. We ended up switching to the alu. rings and it cleared up the problem. Just food for thought.

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post #4 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Vick, and MrBreeze. That helps. Most of my serious wheeling is in the Sierras, so I'm into the granite as well. Not afraid of scratches and gouges and I hate rust, so I was already leaning toward the AL, but I was a little concerned about the deformation eliminating socket clearance in the counterbores. Nice to see the pic of MrBreeze's trail rash in that regard. Wouldn't have thought about the steel rings giving a sealing issue though. That's good info. Aluminum it is then -- although I may now have to miss out on the discount because my OEM battery just crapped out and I'm going to take the opportunity to upgrade to a Genesis dual battery system and Odyssey's, so . . . there goes the budget!

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post #5 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 10:13 AM
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I have the aluminum rings and they do take a beating. Ask raceline about the spacers between the beadlock ring and the wheel. I have a problem with the bolts breaking. Supposedly the spacer corrects that problem. But I am too lazy to redo all my wheels.

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post #6 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 11:08 AM
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Another vote for the aluminum. When I replaced tires I hit my rings with the random orbital sander and that cleaned up a lot of the smaller scratches quite a bit.

When I went from 35" Toyo's to 38" GY's I had to add Raceline's spacer. It still wasn't enough to keep the rings from "coning". I ended up using a washer at each hole in addition to the plastic spacer.

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post #7 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 11:29 AM
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If you run PBR's, the steel rings seat much better than the aluminum ones. Otherwise, the aluminum ones are sweet!
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post #8 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 03:27 PM
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My 40" Trail Grapplers with the Al ring would break bolts so got spacers which stopped the bolts from breaking but couldn't get them then to stop leaking Air. Allied said to run steel rings without spacers so the bolts wouldn't break but I didn't want them.
So after 2 years of dealing with it I sold the rims and got Chamber Pro's..no leaks and so far bolts are not leaking.

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post #9 of 18 Old 11-20-2015, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
I have the aluminum rings and they do take a beating. Ask raceline about the spacers between the beadlock ring and the wheel. I have a problem with the bolts breaking. Supposedly the spacer corrects that problem. But I am too lazy to redo all my wheels.
I had wondered about the spacer. If I end up going this route now, I'll definitely discuss it with them.

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Another vote for the aluminum. When I replaced tires I hit my rings with the random orbital sander and that cleaned up a lot of the smaller scratches quite a bit.

When I went from 35" Toyo's to 38" GY's I had to add Raceline's spacer. It still wasn't enough to keep the rings from "coning". I ended up using a washer at each hole in addition to the plastic spacer.
I guess I'm confused on this. I thought they already used a washer under the bolt head. Can't see anywhere else a washer would help with your issue. Good idea on dressing down the surface between tire changes.

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Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
If you run PBR's, the steel rings seat much better than the aluminum ones. Otherwise, the aluminum ones are sweet!
Hmmm. Now you've gone and thrown a monkey wrench into what was otherwise a smooth-running plan. I'm running 37" MTRs at present, but PBRs are on the short list of potential "trail only" tires I might put on a set of Racelines. I may wait on them until I go the whole "tons and 40s" route though -- which, of course, would require a new set of 8 bolt beadlocks, but by the time I can afford to do that changeover, I'll probably have worn out another set of tires and wheels anyway.

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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc View Post
My 40" Trail Grapplers with the Al ring would break bolts so got spacers which stopped the bolts from breaking but couldn't get them then to stop leaking Air. Allied said to run steel rings without spacers so the bolts wouldn't break but I didn't want them.
So after 2 years of dealing with it I sold the rims and got Chamber Pro's..no leaks and so far bolts are not leaking.
No offense -- the Chamber Pros may be great wheels -- but I am totally unimpressed by an allen head beadlock bolt. Not the least bit interested in going that route. Too hard to get replacements locally; too easy to strip out the socket; impossible to get a pair of vise grips on the heads down in that counter bore. Sorry, just not interested in that at all. I do appreciate your comments on your experience with the Racelines though. And again, I mean no offense by my response, just not where I'm willing to go.

Thanks again to all who have chimed in here. It is appreciated.

Edit: BTW, what does it take for a thread to make it to the "active topics" page? I would have thought this would have made it by now, but it's not there.

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Last edited by UnlimiDozer; 11-20-2015 at 08:22 PM.
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-21-2015, 11:14 AM
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"I guess I'm confused on this. I thought they already used a washer under the bolt head. Can't see anywhere else a washer would help with your issue. Good idea on dressing down the surface between tire changes."


You do use a washer between the ring and the head of the bolt. I used another washer between the wheel and the ring (in addition to the plastic spacer) just to take up more of gap caused by the GY's sidewalls being so thick.
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-21-2015, 11:19 AM
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Yeah, no-go on the PBR's with aluminum ring. It will work, but you will likely break bolts and also a lot of the bead is exposed. I tried this combo, but after bolting on one very resistant aluminum ring, I ended up ordering the steelies instead. The steel rings bolted on easily and the rolled lip covered the entire bead of the PBR.
I have some pics on here somewhere from when I ran into this. I'll search around to see if I can find them...
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-11-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
Yeah, no-go on the PBR's with aluminum ring. It will work, but you will likely break bolts and also a lot of the bead is exposed. I tried this combo, but after bolting on one very resistant aluminum ring, I ended up ordering the steelies instead. The steel rings bolted on easily and the rolled lip covered the entire bead of the PBR.
I have some pics on here somewhere from when I ran into this. I'll search around to see if I can find them...
did you use the plastic raceline spacer as well?

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post #13 of 18 Old 04-11-2016, 07:49 AM
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Im on the other side of the coin and always use the steel rings on racelines. Cheap to replace cheap to color match if thats your thing.
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-11-2016, 07:51 AM
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Im on the other side of the coin and always use the steel rings on racelines. Cheap to replace cheap to color match if thats your thing.
right on.

I have some used 233's with the steel ring coming to me. Plan to keep the steel ring.

rumor has it that you need the plastic spacers with the PBR's

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-11-2016, 09:51 AM
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Hrmm well I just went with AL rings and supposedly trying to mount PBR 41.5s this week. Might need to order the spacers.....
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post #16 of 18 Old 04-27-2016, 04:32 AM
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right on.

I have some used 233's with the steel ring coming to me. Plan to keep the steel ring.

rumor has it that you need the plastic spacers with the PBR's
Mounted mine yesterday.

PBR's on the Raceline 233 with a steel ring. The raceline spacers were not needed.

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post #17 of 18 Old 04-27-2016, 04:35 AM
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Hrmm well I just went with AL rings and supposedly trying to mount PBR 41.5s this week. Might need to order the spacers.....
I am pretty sure that I saw yours already mounted so I assume you didn't need the spacers. If you do, let me know...I have five.

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post #18 of 18 Old 04-27-2016, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
I am pretty sure that I saw yours already mounted so I assume you didn't need the spacers. If you do, let me know...I have five.
Thanks. Yeah mine were mounted at the shop - hopefully they hold air but don't let those spacers go till I find out thanks!
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