Anyone Running 40's on a 2013 or newer? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-23-2014, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone Running 40's on a 2013 or newer?

I am thinking about running a set of 40s with a 3.5 inch lift and flat fenders under a 2013 JK Unlimited SAHARA. It has 3.73 gears in it and I have 35s under it right now! Just wondering if anyone else running them and what all they have done.
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-23-2014, 07:41 AM
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Our 2013 4Dr has been running 40's on a RK 3.5" Long Arm for right at 2 years now. What all would you like to know?

-Jason


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post #3 of 10 Old 09-23-2014, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrawlOff-Road.com View Post
Our 2013 4Dr has been running 40's on a RK 3.5" Long Arm for right at 2 years now. What all would you like to know?

-Jason
Any Gear changes?
Did you have to do any trimming in the rear wheel wells?
Balancing?
Axle upgrades?
I don't plan on doing a lot of wheeling if any. I have a Polaris Ranger for that!
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-23-2014, 08:40 AM
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call this guy, he can prolly give you some solid advice

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/4630211655.html

2014 JKUR, 3.5" X Factor RK lift, 40" Nitto Trail Grappler's, RIPP supercharger and UD60s.
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-23-2014, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redjk07 View Post
Any Gear changes?
Did you have to do any trimming in the rear wheel wells?
Balancing?
Axle upgrades?
I don't plan on doing a lot of wheeling if any. I have a Polaris Ranger for that!
Yes we run 5.13's and we have a HEAVY JKU.

Yes, you have to cut quite a bit in the rear and some in the front. You have to cut the pinch seem even to get the wheel and tire on the JKU to see what you have to cut! LOL...

Balancing is a pain. Especially since we run beadlocks as well. Honestly, this time around, we didn't even balance them and they run fine at 30PSI.

Yes, built front and rear. I would not run these or try on stock axles.

-Jason


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post #6 of 10 Old 10-01-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redjk07 View Post
Any Gear changes?
Did you have to do any trimming in the rear wheel wells?
Balancing?
Axle upgrades?
I don't plan on doing a lot of wheeling if any. I have a Polaris Ranger for that!
I'm running 40s on a 2013 two door. Running Rock Krawler 3.5 long arm kit (which is around 4.5 inches of lift on a 2 door because they use the same springs as the 4 door). I have full width Dana 60 dynatrac axles and still have rubbing on the front frame on the passenger side when backing up turning wheels to the right. The rear isn't a big deal, trim the pinch seam and bump stop the upward travel - I have custom flat fenders in the rear (river raider build a flair and rear corners).

The front is where it gets messy. Did major trimming on the rear of the fender wells. Steering is an issue with 40s; had to convert to hydro assist (PSC). Alignment is likely an issue; most shops don't have anything to clamp on that large a tire so they have to "eyeball" it. Balancing can be an issue; I started with the Maxxis crawler tires (bias ply) which can't be balanced at that size (and balancing beeds do nothing - tried it), and they suck rock crawling. Goodyear MTR's balanced just fine even with beadlocks. And remember I have full width axles; if you are trying to run stock, you'll limit your turning radius a good bit.

I have 5.38 gears and that gets me pretty close to stock 4.10s on the rpms at highway speed.

If you aren't wheeling it, you may not care about a lot of the above. At the same time, if you aren't wheeling it, stick with 37s and save yourself a lot of headache. Just my two cents.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-01-2014, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ScubaZ View Post
I'm running 40s on a 2013 two door. Running Rock Krawler 3.5 long arm kit (which is around 4.5 inches of lift on a 2 door because they use the same springs as the 4 door). I have full width Dana 60 dynatrac axles and still have rubbing on the front frame on the passenger side when backing up turning wheels to the right. The rear isn't a big deal, trim the pinch seam and bump stop the upward travel - I have custom flat fenders in the rear (river raider build a flair and rear corners).

The front is where it gets messy. Did major trimming on the rear of the fender wells. Steering is an issue with 40s; had to convert to hydro assist (PSC). Alignment is likely an issue; most shops don't have anything to clamp on that large a tire so they have to "eyeball" it. Balancing can be an issue; I started with the Maxxis crawler tires (bias ply) which can't be balanced at that size (and balancing beeds do nothing - tried it), and they suck rock crawling. Goodyear MTR's balanced just fine even with beadlocks. And remember I have full width axles; if you are trying to run stock, you'll limit your turning radius a good bit.

I have 5.38 gears and that gets me pretty close to stock 4.10s on the rpms at highway speed.

If you aren't wheeling it, you may not care about a lot of the above. At the same time, if you aren't wheeling it, stick with 37s and save yourself a lot of headache. Just my two cents.
After doing much research after the fact of ordering the tires at a 4 wheel drive show! I went ahead and sent them back! I agree two much of a headache even on a mall crawler/show jeep! But thanks for the input!
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-03-2014, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaZ View Post
I'm running 40s on a 2013 two door. Running Rock Krawler 3.5 long arm kit (which is around 4.5 inches of lift on a 2 door because they use the same springs as the 4 door). I have full width Dana 60 dynatrac axles and still have rubbing on the front frame on the passenger side when backing up turning wheels to the right. The rear isn't a big deal, trim the pinch seam and bump stop the upward travel - I have custom flat fenders in the rear (river raider build a flair and rear corners).

The front is where it gets messy. Did major trimming on the rear of the fender wells. Steering is an issue with 40s; had to convert to hydro assist (PSC). Alignment is likely an issue; most shops don't have anything to clamp on that large a tire so they have to "eyeball" it. Balancing can be an issue; I started with the Maxxis crawler tires (bias ply) which can't be balanced at that size (and balancing beeds do nothing - tried it), and they suck rock crawling. Goodyear MTR's balanced just fine even with beadlocks. And remember I have full width axles; if you are trying to run stock, you'll limit your turning radius a good bit.

I have 5.38 gears and that gets me pretty close to stock 4.10s on the rpms at highway speed.

If you aren't wheeling it, you may not care about a lot of the above. At the same time, if you aren't wheeling it, stick with 37s and save yourself a lot of headache. Just my two cents.
Sounds like a bit of work Scuba Z. Just ordered my Rock Jock 60's and Goodyear MT/R 40's. What back spacing did you use for your wheels. The Rock Jocks are 68.7 wide, how wide are the Dynatrac's. Guess I get some Aspin. Thanks Jeffrey
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-06-2014, 04:44 PM
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My Dynatracs are 68.5" wide. Wheels are Raceline Monster Beadlocks, which off the top of my head I think are 17 x 9.5 with 4 inches of backspacing.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 03:47 AM
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Thanks for the info. ScubaZ.
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