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post #1 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Tips on installing Beadlocks

So I have searched and searched and I havent really come up with a lot of new information.

I have a set of MRW beadlocks that I am having trouble balancing. This is what I have done so far:

Set the rim on a bucket and let the tire hang down, set and aligned the tire as best as possible (no tire aligment ring on these) and torqued the rings down in a star pattern at 10, 15 and 20 ft/lb incriments. Every time I do this I end up with a severely out of balance tire.

Do you guys have any tips on how to get these close to balanced? I cant even drive the jeep at this point.

These are brand new 37" MTR/k's btw.


Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 09:12 AM
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Sure it is not the tire?

When I install tires on my Trail Readys, I put the rim bead lock wheel on a smaller wheel (daughter's 16, random 15" steelie, whatever). Spray the wheel down with soapy water. Put the tire over the outer lip of the wheel. Get the outer bead on the "shelf" evenly. Put the ring over the tire and ensure the holes align. Put 8 bolts in and just snug them to hold the ring in place (star pattern). Start the rest of the bolts. Hand tight only in a star (2 bolts at a time on each point on the star pattern) till the ring appears to have seated the bead properly and is starting to compress it. Then I start the in earnest 15-20-25 start pattern tightening. It usually takes about 4 cycles at each torque to seat the bolts.

In all honesty, I would put my money on the tires being the issue. How much weight are we talking here? My Toyo 40s took no more an 7 ounces on my Trail Ready beadlocks. The one creepy we checked on the machine wanted 18 and you could see how out of balance it was. Nitto and Toyo tires seem to be the "roundest". Rockers, anything bias, and MTRs have a reputation for requiring significant weight to balance out.

I have jeeps. I do shit to them.
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 09:21 AM
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Did you make sure you slapped the inner tire edge down with a mallet to make sure it's seated correctly on the rim? (Hope that makes sense?) Also, use anti-seize on your bolts, will make it easier to remove them later.

And I have heard MTR's can a bitch to balance.
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgall View Post
Sure it is not the tire?

When I install tires on my Trail Readys, I put the rim bead lock wheel on a smaller wheel (daughter's 16, random 15" steelie, whatever). Spray the wheel down with soapy water. Put the tire over the outer lip of the wheel. Get the outer bead on the "shelf" evenly. Put the ring over the tire and ensure the holes align. Put 8 bolts in and just snug them to hold the ring in place (star pattern). Start the rest of the bolts. Hand tight only in a star (2 bolts at a time on each point on the star pattern) till the ring appears to have seated the bead properly and is starting to compress it. Then I start the in earnest 15-20-25 start pattern tightening. It usually takes about 4 cycles at each torque to seat the bolts.

In all honesty, I would put my money on the tires being the issue. How much weight are we talking here? My Toyo 40s took no more an 7 ounces on my Trail Ready beadlocks. The one creepy we checked on the machine wanted 18 and you could see how out of balance it was. Nitto and Toyo tires seem to be the "roundest". Rockers, anything bias, and MTRs have a reputation for requiring significant weight to balance out.
This method is exactly what I do, however it always looks like the ring is unevenly compressed. I might just be rushing it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchboy101 View Post
Did you make sure you slapped the inner tire edge down with a mallet to make sure it's seated correctly on the rim? (Hope that makes sense?) Also, use anti-seize on your bolts, will make it easier to remove them later.

And I have heard MTR's can a bitch to balance.
There is no alignment ring for the lip of the tire to seat in, like in the more expensive WE's or TR's.


I havent taken it to a shop to get balanced yet because I can feel vibration already at 30mph. I want to get them setup pretty well before I try slapping weights on em'. I also want to aviod balance beads if at all possible.
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
This method is exactly what I do, however it always looks like the ring is unevenly compressed. I might just be rushing it.



There is no alignment ring for the lip of the tire to seat in, like in the more expensive WE's or TR's.


I havent taken it to a shop to get balanced yet because I can feel vibration already at 30mph. I want to get them setup pretty well before I try slapping weights on em'. I also want to aviod balance beads if at all possible.
Sounds like it. Just start off hand tight with little force. You want the first part of install to be just evenly seating the outer bead. I am not familiar with the particular beadlocks you are using so not sure if my TR method will work for you or not. Take your time and make sure the bolts are not moving much on any single location. If they do, you just shifted the bead. With your setup you may need to go by turns. Hand seat them then go 2 turns per bolt in the star. It may be slower but you will be more likely to evenly seat the outer bead. One good thing is that once the tire is installed it won't rotate on the wheel and throw off the balance.

I have jeeps. I do shit to them.
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Im going to try dismounting and re-mounting one or two of the tires tonight. Ive noticed alot of people putting soap on the bead and outter ring as well which I think will help things slide into place better.
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 10:19 AM
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I never soaped the ring but I do spray the wheel and outer bead when it is set before starting the ring.

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post #8 of 10 Old 07-08-2014, 02:58 PM
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When I did my MRW 105's I started with 4 longer bolts to get the ring centered up. I sprayed the first one with a 50/50 Simple Green mix but switched to Armorall for the other four. Don't spray under the ring until after you get the bead seated on the the lip or it will be too slippery. Also, the 5G bucket was a real PITA so I used the OEM tire carrier as the base... so much better! These were 35" MTR/K's though, so if the tire is too wide you might need to bolt the carrier to something to lift it up off the floor a bit. I was able to drive it to the local Discount Tire for balancing and didn't feel any vibs.

I also used anti-seize on the bolts and only torqued to 15 or 18 Ft-Lbs.

Last edited by chuckt62; 07-08-2014 at 03:03 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-28-2014, 04:21 PM
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i got my spyderlocks mounted yesterday with 41x14.50 irok radials. went to balance them today and they all was calling for atleast 50oz of weight.... looks like im gonna have to try airsoft bb's or dynabeads

10 jkur/3.5" rk lift/evo armor/40s/atx beadlocks/5.13s

09 2dr rubi/built axles/caged/3"evo lift/37s sold
08 jku built and locked on 42s sold

05 evo 8 tarmac black
800hp on 43psi

wtb: d44 rcv shafts, hydro assist setup, supercharger, 12 or 14" red ori stx struts
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-29-2014, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebp99si View Post
i got my spyderlocks mounted yesterday with 41x14.50 irok radials. went to balance them today and they all was calling for atleast 50oz of weight.... looks like im gonna have to try airsoft bb's or dynabeads
ive tried them all and airsoft bb's work the best for me.... and the cheapest. but mine are perfect with the airsoft bb's .. spyderlocks and 40s
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