Picking Proper Aftermarket Wheels - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-23-2014, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Picking Proper Aftermarket Wheels

Had our 13' Oscar Mike JKU about a year now. Ready to start Mods. Not a gear head by far. However not a mechanical moron either.

Like most normal working folk. We will be doing everything in steps for one big reason. You get what you pay for. But who the heck can afford to pay for the good stuff all at once? When kids for some funny reason keep asking to eat every damn day! and college expects you to pay them for your kid to be baby sat at age 20! LOL

Anyway the question.

We like the look of 35's. and the performance we are looking for. For what we will be using our jeep for. So that is the end goal for us.

Jeep needs tires now. But jeep not ready for 35's. (Going for the Zone 4" BTW) She wants to keep her factory fenders ( I say for now. She will change her mind I am sure one day)

If we were to buy an Aftermarket wheel that is the proper size for a 35x12.50x17 tire. I am led to believe a wheel that is 17"x 7, 8 or 9" wide. With a 5X5.0 bolt pattern and NOT more then approx. 4.5 BS is a proper spec for a wheel that will fit our tire choice and our lifted jeep. Are we correct so far?

Would a wheel with that spec that is known to be proper for 35" tires. be able to fit most any size 17" diameter tire from our 13 JKU stock tire dimensions, up to the 35" we want? And I must assume lifted or not. That the same wheel would fit stock height jeeps up to the 4" lift we are planning on correct?

Secondary question...
Other then ensuring the wheel is of the proper 17" diameter, 5X5.0 Bolt pattern, proper width, and the approx. 4.5 back spacing. Is there any other critical spec's that need to be matched? Or if you have these 3. All the other numbers will fall into place? Or are there even more measurement's I need to be a wear of when picking the proper Wheel spec/size?

Does anyone care to impart real world wisdom or keyboard knowledge upon us. So we can not waste time or money starting off with the wrong wheels from the get go?

Add comments if you must. Info if you will.

We will accept it all. For the only way we are going to get this right. Is by asking here. And the only stupid question. Is the one you never ask.

Thank You all for who may wish to help us.

Lastly if anyone care our game plan is,

1)Summer top and Wheels
2) 4" zone lift
3) 35's
4) who knows by this point. At least the big 3 were addressed! LOL


With respect,
Onlooker84
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-23-2014, 08:55 PM
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At 4" of lift I would rethink the zone kit. It is missing most of the components to do a competent 4" lift.

Some build info here:
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-23-2014, 09:04 PM
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Agree ^


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post #4 of 9 Old 04-24-2014, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the advice men. I will look further at lifts.
Any thoughts on my wheel questions?
Thank you again!
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-24-2014, 07:33 AM
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4.5" backspacing wheels is good for 35"x12.5" tires. The wider the tire width the more room you will have as well.

35" tires will fit with a 2.5" and the factory flares with the correct bump stop length and will be cheaper and easier to install requiring fewer parts and retaining a more factory like ride then a 4".

Some build info here:
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-24-2014, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thank You Dirt Man. Yes also looked at going 2.5 Lift and if looking for that "little extra" after that. do a 1 or 1.25 Body Lift.

So I am on the right path for the Wheels.

But that same wheel that you can fit the 35" tire on. Will that very same Wheel also fit a tire smaller like a 33" or even a Factory stock size tire? I hope I am asking this question in the right way.

Thanks for the info it is helping!
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-24-2014, 07:58 AM
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You would have to look at the tire manufacturers recommended wheel width for proper fitment but a 8" wide wheel will fit the factory tires just fine. You will just have more room between the tire and frame and it may look a bit funny from the front or rear with skinny tires on it.

Some build info here:
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-24-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
At 4" of lift I would rethink the zone kit. It is missing most of the components to do a competent 4" lift.
This. Nothing left of my 4" zone lift I had except the bumpstops LOL.

OP for a Decent 4" lift you need at least the front 4 adjustable control arms to get your some of you caster and your wheelbase back in front. Ideally in the rear you should have all 4 adjustable control arms as well to get your wheelbase back in the rear and to adjust your pinion up a few degrees as well but not as important as the front adjustable control arms. A well put together 4" lift will cost at least triple what the zone 4" lift costs and for a reason. The control arms are the most expensive part at roughly $1000-1200 for all 8 control arms alone. So add in coils, shocks, tracks bars, brackets for track bars, Ideally a drag link flip and you have around $2000 invested right there.

Last edited by Terminator2; 04-24-2014 at 01:50 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-25-2014, 10:46 AM
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A 2.5-3" lift may be ideal for you. Not too tall, not too short. Anything above a 3" suspension lift will require a new drive shaft so keep that in mind when you are considering all your costs. Most lift kits do not come with them.

As far as wheels go. If you want to run a 35x12.50R17 we'd recommend a 17x8.5 with a -6mm offset (4.5" backspace) or a 17x9 -12mm offset (4.5" backspace). Wheels with these specs will work with your factory suspension AND your lift when you install it.

Last, if you are on a budget and want to get to the 35's faster, you may want to consider running a 15" wheel and tire package. 15" wheels and tires are cheaper and can leave you with more money for other mods.


If you want to speak with a fellow Jk owner more about your wheel and tire and fitment options call TC at 1.888.459.4080 ext 51826. TC has a lifted JKU and knows the fitments well.

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