Tire help before moab - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-10-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Tire help before moab

Im in a crunch on time. Whats your opinion. I ordered 365/75/16 KM2s (38's the tire bebe and rick run on the bebemonster H3 and the cruiser) They were ordered over 1 1/2 months ago and they are still on backorder. I called up tirerack and they said they can get them but it would probably be the week of or week after moab. They do have the 345/75/16 KM2 in stock now (small 37) I may settle for those and get the 365s next go around.

I contemplated going to 17s but tire prices jump drastically at 17in rims compared to 16.

So my options are:
1) run the 3 year old worn out 315/75/16 duratracs in moab and get the 365s (38s) after Moab

2) Buy 345s km2 (small 37s) before moab and run them till they die and then get 365s next set.

or 3) go with Nitto Mud grappler 385/70/16 (38x15.5x16) My concern is the weight and width.

I have aluminum 16x10 rim which are 21 lbs. My current setup is 87.8lbs (25lb rim and a 62.8lb tire)

345 Km2s run in at 78 lbs...totaling: 99lbs

365 Km2s run in at 80 lbs...totaling: 101 lbs

the Mud grapplers weigh in at 97lbs...totaling 118lbs.

I did some further research and found it not uncommon to run heavy weight like the Mud grapplers with a lighter tire but heavier rims with the beadlocks.

So does what do you think?

As for axles, Ive got Dana 44s front and rear. Front is stock shafts and stock rubi locker with C gussets, an axle truss and axle sleeves, Synergy ball joints (basically all built minus the chromoly shafts and stronger locker)

the rear has a 35 spline chromoly axle shafts and an ox locker. Truss will be installed but currently isnt on.

and 5.13 gears for both front and rear.

So what do I do?
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-10-2014, 07:15 PM
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honestly, if your current tires are safe to travel on, then run what ya brung.

go have a great time in moab and worry about getting the tire you truly want when you get back. no need to spend a large chunk of $ on something you don't necessarily have your heart set on.

do you truly want the 38s or are the 37s more than good enough?

hopefully that helps a little.

I would personally steer clear of the mud grapplers due to them being quite heavy for their size and running a d44. the km2 will get you better traction, but still be easier on parts due to less weight and less leverage (smaller size)



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'15 M&M Offroad triplethreat buggy #27

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'07 LBZ
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-10-2014, 09:34 PM
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You can throw out number three unless you are running a 2" bs wheel on the factory width axles.

Some build info here:
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-10-2014, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Due to weight and width #3 is out.

The reason I wanna push the 38s is because the 345s are 36.4 and the 365s are 37.6 that's a big difference especially for only 2lbs more a tire. It just sucks they are backordered. Now I gotta decide if I run the 345s for a few years for wait after Moab for the 365s
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-11-2014, 06:31 AM
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OR, run the 36s for a short while and then sell them when the 37s are available

good luck with the choice



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'15 M&M Offroad triplethreat buggy #27

'00 s10
LQ4 6.0, 42s, 1 tons, etc.....RIP

'07 LBZ
Fleece Performance built
dyno'd 518/1040

'08 JKUR (detonator yellow)
35" Duratracs
wifes rig
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-20-2014, 06:09 AM
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I would just run the duratracs as long as they are safe to drive on. One you are done at moab look for new tires. I looked at the 365/75 16 KM2s but they are always on back order. OP you are better off going up to 17" wheels because you have tons more tire options and the tires are not always much more expensive. The 365/75/16 KM2s are around $400-425 a tire shipped. I paid $450 shipped for my 40 13.50 17 Trail Grapplers.
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