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post #1 of 20 Old 02-11-2012, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Planning out my build and looking for inputs

So here's the deal. I've got a 2012 JKU Dana 30 up front and 44 in the rear with 3.73 gearing. I'm looking to run 35" tires. This is a daily driver and wheeling rig. I've been looking at the RK 3.5 long arm lift but not sure if it's worth the money due to the daily driver part. Would anyone recommend the RK or should I maybe look at the RE lift. I really like the pro's of the long arm and think it's the way to go for me.

With all of that being said I'll need to switch out the axle up front and that brings me to my next question. Go for a Rubicon axle with the e-locker or go Dana 44 and put in an ARB system?

Thanks for the input.

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post #2 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 05:15 AM
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I run the RK 3.5. X w the mid arms and it's well worth the money. Solid, well built stuff. You'll love it. I would think the long arm would be even Better.

I'm thinking I would go with a pro rock 44 and do an ARB locker...unless you just find a smoking deal on a rubi take off.

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post #3 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 05:31 AM
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I also have the RK 3.5 mid arms and the ride very smooth on the road and awesome movement off-road


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post #4 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 05:32 AM
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You'd be very happy with a RK 3.5" or 2.5" lift. Just depends on how much money you want to spend.

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post #5 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
I run the RK 3.5. X w the mid arms and it's well worth the money. Solid, well built stuff. You'll love it. I would think the long arm would be even Better.

I'm thinking I would go with a pro rock 44 and do an ARB locker...unless you just find a smoking deal on a rubi take off.
Can second this and all the other recommendations on the 3.5 X factor mid arm set up.

I have Bilstein 5100's on my rig and they do great on/off road and with rock crawling as well.

I have a JK, not a JKU.
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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You'd be very happy with a RK 3.5" or 2.5" lift. Just depends on how much money you want to spend.
Would I be able to fit 35's with the 2.5 and not worry about rubbin?

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post #7 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:22 AM
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Would I be able to fit 35's with the 2.5 and not worry about rubbin?

Yep ...Marcus (River City Offroad) and a few other folks are running 37" tires on RK 2.5" lifts. There'll be some pinch seam trimming involved, but not too much with 35s, and you'll probably want to trim your flares or pick up some flat flares.

I'm slowly designing a 2 door (maybe 2013 or 2014) build and I'm planning on a 2.5" lift with 35s.

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post #8 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:23 AM
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I don't run RK so I can't comment on them. But I'm a very big fan of my Rough Country 3.5 inch series 2 lift kit. Probably the most complete, best functioning and top value kit for the money. $500. Been using it for 8k miles (about 200 of those were wheeling at ORV parks) and it's amazing. Just another option to consider.

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post #9 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 09:17 AM
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If I were starting over and going with a mild (35") build, I"d probably start out with the RK stock mod. As far as that front axle, pick up the PR44 Unlimited, get it with an ARB, RCVs, and 5.13's and you'll be good to go.


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post #10 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 09:28 AM
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As far as that front axle, pick up the PR44 Unlimited, get it with an ARB, RCVs, and 5.13's and you'll be good to go.
oh hell yeah...but go 5.38 cause you know the 37's are coming!!!

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post #11 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 10:13 AM
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Is he auto or stick? If he's auto, then 5.38's would be ok. If he's in a 6spd, then I'd think twice about it. My 5.13's were enough to put up with at highway speeds with 35's. I'm not sure I'd wanna listen to the 3.8 spin with 5.38's and 35's at 70mph or so.

Now, with 37's, then 5.38's would be fine either way, but if he really thinks he's gonna go to 37's in the next year or so, I'd be willing to say he's better off running stock gears for a while on 35's (again, especially if he's in a 6spd).


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post #12 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 07:28 PM
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I have the 3.5 long arm if you want to check it out. i am in oak harbor.
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post #13 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Is he auto or stick? If he's auto, then 5.38's would be ok. If he's in a 6spd, then I'd think twice about it. My 5.13's were enough to put up with at highway speeds with 35's. I'm not sure I'd wanna listen to the 3.8 spin with 5.38's and 35's at 70mph or so.

Now, with 37's, then 5.38's would be fine either way, but if he really thinks he's gonna go to 37's in the next year or so, I'd be willing to say he's better off running stock gears for a while on 35's (again, especially if he's in a 6spd).
It's an auto. I really don't see me running 37's unless I win the lottery. For the time being this is my daily driver. Also I don't know if it makes too much difference but I'm running the 3.6 instead of the 3.8

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post #14 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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I have the 3.5 long arm if you want to check it out. i am in oak harbor.
I would like to check it out. Did you put it on or have someone do it for you?

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post #15 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:01 PM
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It's an auto. I really don't see me running 37's unless I win the lottery. For the time being this is my daily driver. Also I don't know if it makes too much difference but I'm running the 3.6 instead of the 3.8
Yeah, it actually makes a HUGE difference. From what I've read, you might not even want to regear. My bad, I guess I should work on my reading comprehension skills.

Run the 35's for a while and then decide if you want/need to regear. If/when it comes time to upgrade your axle, you can decide then if you want to change your gear ratio and you'll only have to have the rear regeared to match your new front.

Enjoy...


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post #16 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Run the 35's for a while and then decide if you want/need to regear. If/when it comes time to upgrade your axle, you can decide then if you want to change your gear ratio and you'll only have to have the rear regeared to match your new front.

Enjoy...
Sorry to keep asking questions but I don't know any better way to learn. How long would I have, running on the Dana 30 up front, before the 35's destroy it? I'm not a throttle jockey but do take trips regularly down I-5 to Oregon.

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post #17 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 08:46 PM
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Scrap the long arm idea and go 2.5 or 3.5 mid arms. I'd look to the 2.5 Max Travel or 3.5 X-Factor and be done with it. Long arms are not necessary on the JKU IMO. They are nice, but they don't out flex the mid arms like you'd think.

Here is my two door, sitting at around 3.5" of lift (2.5 Max Travel on a 2 door) on 37" MTRs:



Here's some perspective...that rock is the one at the left bottom corner of this picture:



Wheel it until you destroy the front axle (you probably never will) or buy ~$200 worth of parts (Nitro pound in sleeves + gussets + LCA Skids) to beef up that 30 and call it good.

FWIW - I drove that JK across Johnson Valley at 40 - 60 MPH on a D30 and 37s and then drove it about 30 minutes home when we got back to Austin without any trouble at all. You have to drive like an absolute maniac to damage a sleeved and gusseted D30. Put your money where it'll make the most difference first, that 30 is fine. The odds of you taking a 2012 out and pounding it to the point of bending your axle are slim...I don't know you, but if you're asking questions like this you're a conscientious owner of a vehicle with a lien on it just like the rest of us.

35s + JKU + 2.5/3.5" of lift will be all you need. That 3.6 should be fine with the 35s and 3.73s.

KEEP IT SIMPLE, HAVE FUN, AND DON'T READ TOO FAR BETWEEN THE LINES!!


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post #18 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Wow that is quite impressive! I've always heard people say that 35's are pushing it on a Dana 30. Never would have dreamed 37's possible.

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post #19 of 20 Old 02-12-2012, 10:36 PM
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I ran 37s on my 30 for over a year DD and weekend rocker. I drive 50-100+ miles a day pulling a light trailer with the 6 spd and 3.73, it survived well.

I bent the 30 being stupid. At that point a 44 with 35 spline ARB, RCVs custom truss, c gussets, and a few other improvements were made to the front end.

As for the lift, I'm pulling my Tera and putting in the RK. You'll be fine in either the long or short arm 2.5/3.5 kits.
I rode in my buddies JKU with the long arm, (fox coil-overs up front, fox remote resi rear) it was dialed in and te smoothest riding JK I've ever been in.

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post #20 of 20 Old 02-13-2012, 08:21 AM
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I bought my 2010 JKU Sahara brand new with 35's and a 2.5 Terraflex coil lift; ran it that way for over 35000 miles with several wheeling trips with no problems. I do however run like a grandma in the the fast lane when I wheel it. I have recently sleeved, gusseted, regeared added a yukon zip locker and RCV's and now 37's. I plan to still drive like a grandma while wheeling and hope it will last!
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