Advice on Knuckle/Axle Painting - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Advice on Knuckle/Axle Painting

I apologize in advance for this painfully dumb question... I'd like to touch-up my diff, axle housing, knuckles, etc. because they are really starting to look like crap (as you can see below)...

Does anyone have any tips/advice for this? I was just going to grab some rattle-cans (black) and mask off wires, etc. as needed. I would remove the wheels and set it on jack stands..

Advice on type of paint (specific brand or specs?)
Anything I need to be *extra* careful with?



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post #2 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 11:00 AM
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Use whatever is cheap as it just gets scraped back off. I use Rustoleums "Rust Reformer" as it is "supposed" to chemicaly bind with the light rust. Either way, unless you are bead blasting and powder coating, just go with the cheap stuff.

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post #3 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 11:05 AM
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I use satin black, touches up well.


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post #4 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advices! I was thinking it shouldn't be too critical, but every time I assume something is a no-brainer, I find out there are actually considerations which I had never thought about..

I think I'll go with one of the rust-binding or inhibiting satin black paints..


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post #5 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 11:19 AM
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Rustoleum Hammered Black. Looks good, goes on thick, fills scratches, converts rust and turns your JK into a KOH buggy.
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post #6 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RoCk-NeSs MoNsTeR View Post
Rustoleum Hammered Black. Looks good, goes on thick, fills scratches, converts rust and turns your JK into a KOH buggy.
Awesome.. Will see what I can find at the local stores..


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post #7 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 12:31 PM
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Jeff made fun of me lol but I used caliper paint to paint my knuckles red that was left over from painting my solid diff covers I might have had a few too many tho red paint all over axle lol


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post #8 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nootherride View Post
Jeff made fun of me lol but I used caliper paint to paint my knuckles red that was left over from painting my solid diff covers I might have had a few too many tho red paint all over axle lol
Can't imagine why he'd make fun of that....



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post #9 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:11 PM
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I recommend the red as well!!!

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post #10 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:28 PM
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Ya my plan is red skids red rock lights,red decals,red n black seat covers


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post #11 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepingGreen View Post
Does anyone have any tips/advice for this? I was just going to grab some rattle-cans (black) and mask off wires, etc. as needed. I would remove the wheels and set it on jack stands..

Advice on type of paint (specific brand or specs?)
Anything I need to be *extra* careful with?
I use KBS Coatings, Stop-Rust product (similar to POR-15) and painted over everything I could. It's a hard coating and should last a long time. The paint also fills in any groove marks from the paint brush so the finish ends up looking smooth. I think its the most elegant, permanent solution out there.

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post #12 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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I recommend the red as well!!!
I actually wouldn't mind some blue under there - but it seems like it'd be a major PITA to keep it looking nice..


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post #13 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:36 PM
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I actually wouldn't mind some blue under there - but it seems like it'd be a major PITA to keep it looking nice..
Na just take a high pressure hose to it when your cleaning up get something gloss tho..looks good even dirty.. I say hell ya if you get that same blue..I'd even get the skid row skid plate n powdercoat that sucker blue..


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post #14 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 02:47 PM
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I think I'm going to have to paint shit green just to avoid the popular red and blue colors

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post #15 of 38 Old 05-03-2011, 03:03 PM
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I think I'm going to have to paint shit green just to avoid the popular red and blue colors
hell no gotta go with the floss white


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post #16 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I think I'm going to have to paint shit green just to avoid the popular red and blue colors
Ha! I was just going to reply to Richard - if I paint everything blue, they'll start to call me blueberry.. But that name is already taken!



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post #17 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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So - I think I have the paint figured out (or at least I have some good options to consider)...

How about prepping? Do you guys just clean/degrease it and power wash? Should I sand it? I'm not terribly worried about it - it will all get scraped up again..


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post #18 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepingGreen View Post
So - I think I have the paint figured out (or at least I have some good options to consider)...

How about prepping? Do you guys just clean/degrease it and power wash? Should I sand it? I'm not terribly worried about it - it will all get scraped up again..
3200psi pressure washer (be caruful around the breather) let dry and spray away!

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post #19 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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3200psi pressure washer (be caruful around the breather) let dry and spray away!
Don't have one of them... Coin-Op is all I would have access to..


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post #20 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 11:05 AM
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Ha! I was just going to reply to Richard - if I paint everything blue, they'll start to call me blueberry.. But that name is already taken!

lol

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post #21 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by turbomeister View Post
I use KBS Coatings, Stop-Rust product (similar to POR-15) and painted over everything I could. It's a hard coating and should last a long time. The paint also fills in any groove marks from the paint brush so the finish ends up looking smooth. I think its the most elegant, permanent solution out there.
That's pretty impressive stuff! How much paint did it take to paint the knuckle/axle/diff? Would a pint be enough or would I need a quart? Thinking I might use this on my rock-sliders as well..


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Last edited by JeepingGreen; 05-04-2011 at 11:52 AM.
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post #22 of 38 Old 05-04-2011, 02:16 PM
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That's pretty impressive stuff! How much paint did it take to paint the knuckle/axle/diff? Would a pint be enough or would I need a quart? Thinking I might use this on my rock-sliders as well..
2 pints was enough for me to do most of my undercarriage. I painted as much as I could on the axles and knuckles, although there are some nooks and crannies that I couldn't get to. If I was really anal about it, I could've used a long detail brush to paint those areas.

For the rest of the undercarriage, I only did spot painting though and did not go willy nilly over everything. If I remember right, 2 pints is all you will need.

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post #23 of 38 Old 05-23-2011, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it's finally done.. Oi - that was gruelling.. KBS coatings is definitely good sh*t!! I got 1 quart of it and used probably only about 5-6 ounces... So far, I just did 1 coat - will go back and sand some parts down and throw on a second coat (though this stuff my be impervious to the effects of sandpaper)..

Anyway, it looks 10000% better! I used the "Satin" finish, but to me it looks like more of a gloss..

A few pointers in retrospect (if you plan on using KBS coatings).

1, Get the Quart Sampler Pack - it is basically 1 quart, but in four seperate 8-ounce containers. This way, you know you will have enough and you can keep what you don't use in a nice, sealed container for future use. If I did it again, I would get the sampler pack and use 1/2 of one of the 8-oz cans per use..

2, DO NOT PAINT FROM THE CAN. Get some cheap containers (the disposable Glad food containers work great) and pour the paint into those (I would use only 3-4 ounces at a time). The reason is - this paint gets very sticky and thick as it sets.. A little goes a very, very long way. If you use too much at once, it will begin to set in the container you're using and make a sticky mess! Also, do not pour the paint from directly from the can into your paint container - use a pouring lip/spout. The paint (if it gets on the seal of the can) will seal the can permanently. Finally, switch containers between each use - they're only about $1 each - it will work best to start with a fresh container and clean paint brush.

3, Use VERY little when painting - too much will pool up and you will get little micro-bubbles in the finish. Have a designated "area" you plan to cover (say, no more than 1 sq. foot at a time). If you try to paint over paint that is drying, you will find it is very sticky - this will pull the bristles off your paint brush and make a huge mess.

4, Use decent paint brushes - the cheap ones will shed their bristles - this paint gets very sticky when setting. I primarily used 1" and .5" brushes. I would have at least 2-3 of each ready to go. I didn't test it, but you might be able to clean the brushes when you're done. I made the mistake of using really cheap brushes (the $1 ones from Home Depot) with the plan to just throw them out. I found myself constantly picking bristles out of the paint.


Before:


After:


You can also see the Poly Pro (Synergy Suspension) drag link I installed:


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Last edited by JeepingGreen; 05-23-2011 at 08:41 AM.
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post #24 of 38 Old 05-23-2011, 09:20 AM
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Looks awesome. I might have to try that myself.
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post #25 of 38 Old 05-23-2011, 09:47 AM
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Wow.. that came out good.. I am gonna have to check out that KBS stuff.


Here is a Smurfy axle..


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