Removing transmission skid plate threaded inserts - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-16-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Removing transmission skid plate threaded inserts

Hi,

Long story short, I'm in the middle of a Synergy long-arm install and one of the requirements for the front brackets is to remove the transmission skid plate threaded inserts. In the install instructions Synergy does not show a hot bikini model threading in a bolt, then banging on the head of the bolt with a 3lb hammer to break it free from the frame.

I've done the same thing and only managed to mushroom out a perfectly good bolt. When I finger around inside the frame I don't feel any tack welds on the threaded insert. It almost feels as if the threaded insert is part of a larger plate.

I'm nervous about beating on it much harder while the jeep is on a lift. Any hints on how to break these free? IF it matters, I have a '15 JKU. Oh and boobs.

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y'aller from California,huh?
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snout View Post
Hi,

Long story short, I'm in the middle of a Synergy long-arm install and one of the requirements for the front brackets is to remove the transmission skid plate threaded inserts. In the install instructions Synergy does not show a hot bikini model threading in a bolt, then banging on the head of the bolt with a 3lb hammer to break it free from the frame.

I've done the same thing and only managed to mushroom out a perfectly good bolt. When I finger around inside the frame I don't feel any tack welds on the threaded insert. It almost feels as if the threaded insert is part of a larger plate.

I'm nervous about beating on it much harder while the jeep is on a lift. Any hints on how to break these free? IF it matters, I have a '15 JKU. Oh and boobs.
Post a pic.

If they are nutserts...
Option 1 would be a grade 8 bolt of the thread size and pitch of the current insert. Bolt, washer, nut, and a couple star lock washers. Then just turn clockwise until nutsert falls apart.

Option 2 you can also drill out. Big thing here is to never go big enough to hog out the original hole that insert goes in to. Youíre basically slowly destroying the insert. Start off with a bit, first size bigger than what will freely pass thru. Move up bit by bit (pun intended). Eventually the insert will spin. At this point, you can punch it thru.

This is all IF these inserts = nutserts. Like i said, post a pic.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 02:09 AM
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Ok. I read the instructions. Scratch the nutsert post.

Are you using a Grade 8 bolt to do this? If not, go to an ACE and go buy one. Heating the area with a torch would help.

You can also come at it from above with a chisel, air hammer, etc. Also, I would imagine threading a shorter grade 8 bolt and hammering side-side-forward-back could rock it loose.

I havenít done this so Iím confused as to the purpose. I suppose if you donít, then you canít get their threaded tab deal in there.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 04:29 AM
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picture of the actual location of the perma-nutcert ?
I have seen (not saying this is your scenario but sounds like it ) on JK/JKUs captured nuts like you're talking about except they had flanges on them and that is what's welded into the steel. if it's one like that, I doubt you're gonna break it off in manner you're mentioning.
I ask about location picture to see what type of room is available where you're talking about ....(edit: for airchisel )









you're talking about the nutcerts that hold these in, right? bottom side of framerails? :



if so, those aren't like the old XJ or YJ captured nuts and are stronger secured& beefier ... I would heat that but with torch until red-hot then run really strong ,grade 8 or higher as shown and then bash it.


keep inind the instructions show Jeep on high post lift: if you're closer to ground you probably aren't getting the fullswing ,Tiger Woods driver distance ya need.

eat Wheaties ,broh?


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 06-17-2019 at 05:05 AM.
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post


if so, those aren't like the old XJ or YJ captured nuts and are stronger secured& beefier ... I would heat that but with torch until red-hot then run really strong ,grade 8 or higher as shown and then bash it.


keep inind the instructions show Jeep on high post lift: if you're closer to ground you probably aren't getting the fullswing ,Tiger Woods driver distance ya need.

eat Wheaties ,broh?

Higher than Grade 8? Valyrian steel bolts? Hahahaha.

Last edited by Laggy; 06-17-2019 at 06:27 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, chuckleheads

I'll get some photos today and just attach them to this post.
I'm currently using a Class 10.9 (so, closer to Grade 5, I think) bolt to beat on. I have the frame about 48" off the ground which optimizes the swing arc for my short shanks.

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y'aller from California,huh?
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 09:45 AM
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maybe PM them - you have, I am pretty sure - or we could ask @PIG to stop in and comment on any help w/ removing these


I still say fire kills all. burn them with the fire!


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post #8 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 12:10 PM
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Yeah. The nut canít stay on there if itís liquid.

Do you have an air compressor? Air hammer?
Do you have a gas welding setup?
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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I've attached a photo. It does look like it is held on my tiny tacks. I guess I'm just not hitting it hard enough. Also, to answer J3ff, I shot an email off to Synergy.

I have an O/A outfit, plasma, air hammer (no luck). Was avoiding using heat but I might try. Going to beat on it with a larger hammer first. Guess all that compulsive masturbation gave me a limp wrist.

EDIT:
I applied some heat and hit it harder and it popped off.
I guess I just needed some cock-coddling from j3ff3ry_j33p and Laggy
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y'aller from California,huh?

Last edited by snout; 06-17-2019 at 03:50 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 03:53 PM
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freakin' nice job, girly man...



<3
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post #11 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 06:25 PM
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...
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-18-2019, 04:09 AM
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Tread a grade 8 bolt in.
Put a bottle jack against bolt head, pump the jack and let the weight of the Jeep remove it.

LS3 2007 JKU X - Red Rock, 2012 JKU Rubicon - Deep Cherry Red, 2001 TJ - Black
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