JK Clutch Creaking Noise: Fix and Maintenance Routine - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-03-2016, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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JK Clutch Creaking Noise: Fix and Maintenance Routine

ISSUE:
I found a solution to the annoying creaking sound from the bell housing\slave\clutch area. Some say the noise is just the slave cylinder but in my case, it was not, I've tried 3 of them. Some have had transmissions swapped, clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing all replaced, and still get the same noise. It's caused by lack of grease on a pivot and pilot shaft.


NOISE:

Here it is. It sucks and it pisses me off.


SOLUTION:

YouTuber Jeff found a similar solution that led to the idea for the procedure that worked for me. In his '12+, there is a small panel cover between the engine and bell housing area that allowed him to spray grease backwards towards the fork, pivot and throw out bearing. Thanks for the ideas Jeff! The fix for my '11 was stupid simple. I drilled a hole to create a grease access port to the fork pivot ball area. I sprayed some Lithium grease on that pivot ball "area" inside. I've always suspected the creak was originating from that pivot and the throw out bearing pilot shaft. I've been running for a 8 months now, over 8000 miles plus 3 wheeling trips... nothing but silence from the clutch every day.


PICTURES:









MATERIALS:
Can of Lithium Grease with the spray straw
Cordless drill and some bits
Socket wrench, short extension and 13mm socket to remove\install the slave
A short allen head screw and some RTV
Some high temp red grease
Optional: New Slave, MOPAR Dot 3 Brake Fluid and a bleeder tube if replacing the slave


PROCEDURE:

1) Remove the slave, bend the spray straw about 90 degrees and spray the throw out bearing\pilot shaft "area". Again, just do a few short blasts until you think you got the area covered. You'll be sending grease towards the pilot shaft, fork pivot ball and throw out bearing.

2) With the slave out, some say to grease the inside pivot of the slave itself, the tip pops off. Others say to grease the outer pivot of the slave where it contacts the fork. To each his own. I don't think it matters but I greased both with some red high temp grease.

3) Reinstall slave.

4) Test drive for a while and see if it helped. If you still have the creaking noise, proceed to step 5.

5) Drill the friggin hole in your bell housing. 1/4" or so should be more than enough. It's soft aluminum, drill a pilot and then a final, it takes just seconds.

6) Bend the spray straw as needed and spray some Lithium grease on the pivot ball "area". A few short blasts will do it, not towards the clutch disk.

7) Find a short allen head bolt about the same diameter as the hole you drilled, and use the bolt and some gasket RTV to plug it up. Let it cure overnight. Should be easy to remove for regular lube maintenance.


I also recommend Mopar DOT 3 fluid. I had better results vs aftermarket Dot 3 or 4, for what it's worth, just in case you actually have some noise generated by your slave.

I hope this helps.

2011 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor Mid Arm Suspension, 5.38 G2 Gears, Rancho 9100's, JE Reel 1310 Driveshafts, Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage, VKS Front Bumper, SuperWinch EPi9000, OR Fab Rock Sliders, Body Armor Rear Bumper with TeraFlex Tire Carrier, Riddler Diff Covers, G2 Truss, Artec Skids, SOTA 17x8.5's, 37 Goodyear MTRís, Bestop NX Trek Top, Savvy Half Doors, Spidershade, Cobra 29 and Headwaters Seat Covers.

"Shall Not Be Infringed"

Last edited by DanoJKU; 10-26-2017 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Phuck Photobucket, Pics again
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-02-2017, 09:41 AM
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I just want to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH for posting this thread along with the images to get an idea of the pivot fork. I have a 2015 JKU that has been having this creaking issue for years. I cannot tell you how infuriating this has been to hear for a "new ish" vehicle. Especially when it was in the mid 10k of miles.

Luckily I had the access panel to spray the grease in there. However, it did not solve my issue at first. It made it a bit smoother, but I actually ended up spraying towards the passenger side through the slave cylinder hole.

I detailed much much more here: wranglerforum . com/f274/noisy-clutch-jku-15-a-1670274-2.html#post28866954 (can't post hyperlinks due to low post count, remove the spaces) in hopefully my last post about this issue. I originally started that thread March of 2015.

I originally saw this thread on the youtube video posted above as well as contacted Jeff in the Youtube comments.

Without looking through my details in the thread I made, the pedal is currently as smooth as it's ever been and after drives to/from work I can confirm the creak is no longer apparently. It's super silent. I'll probably replace my slave cylinder in the future due to an issue I ran into when removing it.
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post #3 of 12 Old 02-02-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Glad it helped you out! I had great results so far. All around improvement for hardly any effort. I just saw so many posts about Jeeps spending weeks at the dealer for this getting the trans pulled and all new parts and then the noise coming back. I knew there had to be way to fix it or maintain it.

2011 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor Mid Arm Suspension, 5.38 G2 Gears, Rancho 9100's, JE Reel 1310 Driveshafts, Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage, VKS Front Bumper, SuperWinch EPi9000, OR Fab Rock Sliders, Body Armor Rear Bumper with TeraFlex Tire Carrier, Riddler Diff Covers, G2 Truss, Artec Skids, SOTA 17x8.5's, 37 Goodyear MTRís, Bestop NX Trek Top, Savvy Half Doors, Spidershade, Cobra 29 and Headwaters Seat Covers.

"Shall Not Be Infringed"
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 01:15 PM
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Dude. I have had that noise since a few months after I bought my new jeep. Finally fixed it with this. Thanks!!
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-16-2018, 12:36 PM
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This creak has been driving me BONKERS on a 2016 JK Ruby.. I replaced the slave, I greased the spring behind the dash, Tried spraying through the access panel, Tried removing tip of the slave and greasing inside on the metal tip.. I even drilled the hole and tried to shoot some grease in there but to no avail STILL A CREAK and it sounds just like your video DanoJKU.. Did you try to bend the straw to shoot from BEHIND the pivot bearing?

Is it going to do any harm to spray towards the middle where the pivot fork touches the throw out bearing? any chance on a LOTTA grease messing up the clutch?

LOl seems like I have seen half the posts claim this is a TOB issue.. Honestly I have had that before , though not on a JK, and it was way more of a CHIRP than a CREAK.. Yes .
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-16-2018, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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If you have the creak exactly like the video, I think it almost has to be dry spots on 1 or both of those 2 areas. I guess it could be a cracked TOB causing the creak, it's pushing against a good bit of pressure. Some wear on the pilot shaft can cause a chirp sound from a wobbling TOB, and a bad TOB can cause a chirp or screech noise, which isn't this particular noise.

You want to get some sprayed on that pilot shaft right behind the TOB shown in that one pic. Access it through the hole from the removed slave. I don't think you have to bend the straw like I did, with the slave removed it's all literally right there but do what makes you comfortable. Maybe 1 shot behind the TOB and put the slave back on and work the clutch pedal a few times, repeat again, listen for a sound change. It doesn't take much grease to make a change but if it isn't reaching the dry spot, you won't hear the result. Heating up the Jeep on a long drive should get the grease moved around. When it works, you know it, the sound changes or vanishes. Since it wasn't completely gone for me, I drilled the hole for the win.

If you do all of that and you still can't get the sound to change at all, and since you have a new slave, you could remove the slave, pop off the plastic pivot ball on the end of that slave and put some grease on the end where the ball attaches to the push rod, reassemble and see if that helps. If no change, sometimes a little grease on the outside of the ball of the slave works where it meets the fork. Others say remove any external grease from the slave ball and fork and run that area dry. I personally run the slave greased on the inside of the pivot ball and dry on the outside of the pivot ball, and it's been quiet YMMV. That's a few things you could try. Interested in hearing how you make out!

2011 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor Mid Arm Suspension, 5.38 G2 Gears, Rancho 9100's, JE Reel 1310 Driveshafts, Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage, VKS Front Bumper, SuperWinch EPi9000, OR Fab Rock Sliders, Body Armor Rear Bumper with TeraFlex Tire Carrier, Riddler Diff Covers, G2 Truss, Artec Skids, SOTA 17x8.5's, 37 Goodyear MTRís, Bestop NX Trek Top, Savvy Half Doors, Spidershade, Cobra 29 and Headwaters Seat Covers.

"Shall Not Be Infringed"

Last edited by DanoJKU; 08-16-2018 at 02:06 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-20-2018, 06:13 AM
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LOL

well... this Sunday I got back under there with the hole I drilled.. I had wife work the clutch as I sprayed a little and then moved nozzle some.. and then wife starts screaming "BABE YOU GOT IT" and low and behold it had stopped lol.. She tried to high five me I said NOPE WAIT!. So we drove to beach in Texas about an hour away in 95 degree heat and BAM it started again LOL.

Got home last night and got under again and hit it with another squirt in the drilled hole and first try... and BAMMO it stopped again lol. Drove to work this morning in 86 degree weather high humidity and it started again by time I got to work but a little less of a loud and dry CREAK I guess you would say.

It is just so hot in South Texas right now.. and seems most peeps with this issue say its triggered by engine heat. I am sure hot weather don't help either. I wish I could get some high temp red bearing grease in there as I feel it might stay longer or coat better than the Lithium . More I mess with it more I feel it is a lack of lubricant issue not the TOB..

I'll keep everyone updated lol. My only fear is at the end there will be 8 cans worth of grease in the bell housing HAHAHA!
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-27-2018, 12:18 PM
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DanoJKU

Well... I ended up getting a thicker HIGH TEMP red grease in a can . didn't even know if they put bearing grease in a can but it is thicker and seems to stick better than the Lithium grease.

So yeah! so far! Found the sweet spot with it and been riding since Thursday SQUEAK FREE... Thank the lord!

Owe you one man.. Just hope this is something that does not have to be done every 10k lol
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-31-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, glad it worked. Might be a yearly maintenance routine but simple to do. Link or name of the grease you found?

2011 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor Mid Arm Suspension, 5.38 G2 Gears, Rancho 9100's, JE Reel 1310 Driveshafts, Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage, VKS Front Bumper, SuperWinch EPi9000, OR Fab Rock Sliders, Body Armor Rear Bumper with TeraFlex Tire Carrier, Riddler Diff Covers, G2 Truss, Artec Skids, SOTA 17x8.5's, 37 Goodyear MTRís, Bestop NX Trek Top, Savvy Half Doors, Spidershade, Cobra 29 and Headwaters Seat Covers.

"Shall Not Be Infringed"
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 03:24 PM
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Man am I glad I found this thread!
Going to install a new clutch soon and will make sure I get things set up for future maintenance! Awesome

2008 Wrangler JK 2 door
3.8 with 6 speed
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-04-2018, 11:44 AM
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Niteo Cyclo Red Grease High Temperature Lubricant


Glad to report still quiet as a church mouse.
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-14-2019, 10:26 AM
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In the OP "Solution" it says, "there is a small panel cover between the engine and bell housing area that allowed him to spray grease backwards towards the fork, pivot and throw out bearing." - Can someone please share a picture of this panel with me? Is this an easy/intermediate/advanced fix? I have very limited skills when it comes to car repairs.


Background:

I have been dealing with this issue on my 2016 JKU since summer of 2017 and made 4 trips to the dealership. On each trip, they just keep the vehicle for 4-5 days, do nothing and give it back. During the last visit they replaced the slave. Didn't fix the problem at all. So I want to just do it myself. Please advise.
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