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post #1 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Mountain bike "tech" question...

I am in the process of fixing up an old Schwinn mtn bike for my g/f and I have a question...

what are you guys using to lubricate cables? ( if anything)... Wet? Dry?

Specifically I am having some issues with the back brake cable kind of sticking. It rebounds very slowly when releasing it.

I'm wondering if that's the issue as the line is fairly unrestricted, and in good condition. FWIW The pads are making good contact on the rim... not too high/ low.

I have all kinds of stuff to lube this thing... White Lightning, WD-40, lithium, graphite, etc. Just want to see what you guys say.

Thank you. Much appreciated for any advice.

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post #2 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 02:31 PM
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I would try graphite

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post #3 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 02:41 PM
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I bought this stuff a while back that goes on wet and carries a PTFE base to where it's needed and then evaporates. Comes in a clear bottle and is red in color. I use it on my chainnand cables. I'll take a picture of the bottle when I get home. Works great! Got it from my local shop and came highly recommended.

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post #4 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
what are you guys using to lubricate cables? ( if anything)... Wet? Dry?

.
I'm from motorcycle background and I was all about lubing the cables as well but I went into a bike shop and they just replaced my cables that were gummed up for about $15. The guy there pretty much said don't lube them, it only attracts dirt. He said if you just replace them every couple years you'll be way happier.

Bikes are way cheaper than Jeeps and motorcycles!

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post #5 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
I bought this stuff a while back that goes on wet and carries a PTFE base to where it's needed and then evaporates. Comes in a clear bottle and is red in color. I use it on my chainnand cables. I'll take a picture of the bottle when I get home. Works great! Got it from my local shop and came highly recommended.
Mean this?



I tend to agree that its prob better to replace, but i would think, taking it apart, cleaning it good and using something like above or a light oil should work, but it will likely eventually gum up.

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post #6 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 04:13 PM
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Yep!! ^^ That is the shiznit! I have used that for years now and haven't used much else since for my bike. Apply, wipe off the excess, works like magic.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 04:22 PM
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Yep!! ^^ That is the shiznit! I have used that for years now and haven't used much else since for my bike. Apply, wipe off the excess, works like magic.
Yep, its good stuff. All i use.

Stu, if you wanna pick some up, unfort, i think the only place you'll find it close to here is Austin. I get it at Mellow Johnny's. They have a great coffee shop too.

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post #8 of 16 Old 05-28-2013, 04:26 PM
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Stub asking for lube recommendations......

Is this thing on?

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post #9 of 16 Old 05-29-2013, 06:02 AM
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In a past life I was a tec at a shop. Been working on bikes longer than I have been working on cars and have been the personal tec for a few road racers in my area. To lube cables I use a credit card or cash. If there is any surface rust at all just get rid of them. You dont want a brake cable snapping on a down hill. Then your GF will never want to ride again. New cables are cheap and will make an old bike new again. Try to get stainless cables. The galvanized crap only last so long and you will be back to where you are now.
Along with tubes and tires. you dont want a dry rotted tire giving your girl a bad case of road rash when the sidewall blows out.


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post #10 of 16 Old 05-29-2013, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LILWB View Post
In a past life I was a tec at a shop. Been working on bikes longer than I have been working on cars and have been the personal tec for a few road racers in my area. To lube cables I use a credit card or cash. If there is any surface rust at all just get rid of them. You dont want a brake cable snapping on a down hill. Then your GF will never want to ride again. New cables are cheap and will make an old bike new again. Try to get stainless cables. The galvanized crap only last so long and you will be back to where you are now.
Along with tubes and tires. you dont want a dry rotted tire giving your girl a bad case of road rash when the sidewall blows out.
I absolutely agree with you on all this. But the cables are in good shape.. no rust anywhere on this bike and no frayed or damaged cables... just a little sticking. I went ahead and used some graphite since I can't make it to any good bike shops until next week. The cables are all in good shape now, and I went over the entire bike last night with a fine-toothed comb. I also gave it a good road-test and checked everything. Bike is good to go now.

My ex g/f learned the hard way that she wasn't ready for the trails we were doing ( although SHE was the one that wanted to give it a shot). The result was a taco'ed rim on a GT and subsequent surgery on her elbow due to bone fragments. Although this wasn't due to any maintenance issues, it was definitely an eye-opener in regards to safety, preparedness, and the consequence of pushing things too hard.

Thanks, guys for all the help. I will definitely be picking up some of that red-stuff next week, but until then, I feel confident that she will be fine on this bike.

Oh... and yea, I never thought that I would ever have to seek lube-advice on jko. I am usually quite well educated in that dept lol.

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post #11 of 16 Old 05-29-2013, 06:48 AM
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Did you remove the cable from the housing completely? The rust may be hidden in the housing. Remember when galvanized coating start to corrode it wont turn the orange/red rust color but a chalky white powder. In my experience any sticking is due to worn cables or worn cable housings.
Graphite will only wear the lining of the cable housing faster and should never be used anywhere on a bike. Once the solvents in the graphite lube dry up the cable will start yo saw through the inside of the housing.


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post #12 of 16 Old 05-29-2013, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LILWB View Post
Did you remove the cable from the housing completely? The rust may be hidden in the housing. Remember when galvanized coating start to corrode it wont turn the orange/red rust color but a chalky white powder. In my experience any sticking is due to worn cables or worn cable housings.
Graphite will only wear the lining of the cable housing faster and should never be used anywhere on a bike. Once the solvents in the graphite lube dry up the cable will start yo saw through the inside of the housing.
I did. I removed the cable housing and pulled it through completely. I will make sure to clean the graphite off if I keep and re-lube the cables in the future. I will probably just replace them altogether though, as recommended. I just wanted to get this bike ready for some light riding this week.

Fwiw- The graphite that I used is a powdered graphite/ dry lube.

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post #13 of 16 Old 05-29-2013, 04:31 PM
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Need to go down and check out the Colorado River Refuge at the back of Tahitian. Its about 6 miles of pretty easy trails. Some hills you'll probably hafta walk, but not bad for free. Here is a go pro video I made of parts last wkend (first time I've used the go pro, so not perfect)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYUrjwQ8B0I
*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk4RKN9vLQw

And here is a Strava track showing the layout of the trails
http://app.strava.com/activities/56672958

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post #14 of 16 Old 05-31-2013, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yendor65 View Post
Stub, check the brake themself , most have a spring which push the arms out . Alot of times there is a set screw which set tension ......good luck post a pic of them if you need more help
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I almost forgot...some older bikes have a 90 degree bend tube that gets gummeed up and cant be saved...its a 5 dollar pasrt and makes a big difference..
Can't thank you enough for your help.

Everything seems to be fine now since I gave the cables a little attention. At this point her bike is a-ok minus the front shock that is in need of some stiffer elastometers. She really enjoyed our ride the other day... only a couple miles but it was great to at least start getting back out there.

My Balance AL-150 is going to be next in line for some TLC. My Grip-Shifts are in serious need of replacement. I wound up with them sticking to my gloves after about a mile. They are so old that they are beginning to degrade, so time to replace them. Not sure how hard of a job this will be ( so I may need some assistance) but I definitely have to get rid of them... Yeti grips are shot as well.

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post #15 of 16 Old 05-31-2013, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
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Need to go down and check out the Colorado River Refuge at the back of Tahitian. Its about 6 miles of pretty easy trails. Some hills you'll probably hafta walk, but not bad for free. Here is a go pro video I made of parts last wkend (first time I've used the go pro, so not perfect)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYUrjwQ8B0I
*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk4RKN9vLQw

And here is a Strava track showing the layout of the trails
http://app.strava.com/activities/56672958
Thanks so much, kp. I really appreciate the info... although I think I started sweating after a few minutes... virtually able to feel the heat and humidity of that ride! Looks like a bad ass bike too. I've seen it on the back of your JK around town. Looks like it really does well on the trail.

She and I watched both videos and afterwards I asked her which one she wanted to do first. She smiled big and said that she wanted to do Cliffhanger rather than Dragonfly! Shes awesome lol. Even I cringed a little at how close to the edge that trail is. It seems that one wrong turn and a biker is gonna be taking a dip lol. We will definitely be doing that trail soon!

Quick question for you... where is the trail-head? I'm assuming that vehicle parking is at the green "S" on the map, but just wanted to make sure.

I also assume that you just reverse your ride at 3.81 and head back down the same trail. Is that correct or is there another single-track that runs parallel with it to get back to the start point? Probably a dumb question but just wanted to make sure rather than to head back the wrong way and risk crashing into another oncoming biker.

Really digging the Strava app. Looks like a great way to chart progress.

Thanks again, man.

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post #16 of 16 Old 05-31-2013, 06:45 AM
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No problem. The trailhead on the Strava is on Riverside. If you take Lovers Lane all the way around and take a left on Lovers Lane, you will drive down about 1/4 mile (partially on dirt). You will go down and as you are coming back up, you will see the trailhead on the right. Right across the street from the first house on your left (when going down Lovers Lane DO NOT follow the River Refuge signs, they will take you a convoluted and beat the hell out of your vehicle way. Look at the Strava map and find Lovers Lane.

I usually start and go right on Cliff Hanger, take it down to Dragonfly, do that loop, come back to the trail and continue all the way down to the loop down by the golf course loop and come back. Instead of taking Cliff hanger, I stay on Baja and back to the Jeep.

Let me know when you wanna go ride and we'll go down, but it needs to be morning or late evening, it was hot as hell when I shot that video. The humidity about killed me. I will be down there tomorrow, but for a volunteer trail day to work on the trails a little to clean them up. I am also going to try and attach a PDF that shows my typical route, but you can do it in any order that yall like.

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Thanks so much, kp. I really appreciate the info... although I think I started sweating after a few minutes... virtually able to feel the heat and humidity of that ride! Looks like a bad ass bike too. I've seen it on the back of your JK around town. Looks like it really does well on the trail.

She and I watched both videos and afterwards I asked her which one she wanted to do first. She smiled big and said that she wanted to do Cliffhanger rather than Dragonfly! Shes awesome lol. Even I cringed a little at how close to the edge that trail is. It seems that one wrong turn and a biker is gonna be taking a dip lol. We will definitely be doing that trail soon!

Quick question for you... where is the trail-head? I'm assuming that vehicle parking is at the green "S" on the map, but just wanted to make sure.

I also assume that you just reverse your ride at 3.81 and head back down the same trail. Is that correct or is there another single-track that runs parallel with it to get back to the start point? Probably a dumb question but just wanted to make sure rather than to head back the wrong way and risk crashing into another oncoming biker.

Really digging the Strava app. Looks like a great way to chart progress.

Thanks again, man.
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