and for those interested but nobody to teach, it's not hard at all to figure out if you are good at shooting anything else. They have taken all the guess work out of it. You just need a trigger that connects to the "Nock" loop, and and arm guard to make sure you don't BRUISE your forearm....AND YOU WILL without it!!
For the bow, the main things you want to look for is a single cam bow (easier for adjustments without timing issues), dual cam (but can have timing issues if the strings stretch), a site (trophy 3-4 pin is a good one....usually comes on PSE and Bear bows), quiver mounted to the side to hold from 4-6 arrows (comes with Bear and PSE bows), sling (comes with PSE bows), and a stabilizer ($20....comes with some Bear bows and all ready to shoot PSE bows).
From there it's just a matter of adjusting the draw length to your draw and test firing it using the sites and aligning the pin sites to where you want for distance. Usually they are set with the bow for 10, 20, and 30 yards, but you can adjust them for whatever distance you want.
The key to aiming is that the circle of your peep site on the string should overlay the circle of the front sight (if you have the circular trophy site). From there you place whichever dot you need per distance on the target and then release!
Depending on where you hit will depend on how you adjust, but that is it and very easy to do.
***NOTE: place the trigger on the nock loop, lock the trigger around the nock loop then take your finger off the trigger. Pull back on the the string using the trigger attached to the wrist, but do not put your finger on the trigger until you are absolutely ready. Also, while pulling the arrow back into place to fire, keep the bow and arrow pointed to the ground just in case you bump the trigger. By doing so, you ensure the arrow isn't going to fly off into someone's house or someone's body, or someone's dog downrange of where the arrow will fly!