Transmission Problems!!! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-23-2013, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission Problems!!!

Hey guys, I have some transmission issues. I have an 08 unlimited auto with 5.13s and 37s. I drove it about 10 miles and shut it off. When I went to leave, I fired her up, put it in reverse and backed up. Went to put it in drive and NOTHING!!! Shifted into 2 Nothing then first and nothing. Went back to reverse and took just fine. Went to neutral and neutral was gone as it stayed in reverse. Go back to drive 2 and 1, they all act like Park. I dropped the rear shaft and got towed home in 2 Hi. Have you guys every experienced this problem? The trans has always had a shudder in it since I bought it in 2010. Fluid is not low and wasn't overheating. You guys have any ideas?

BJ
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post #2 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 04:04 AM
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I've got a take out transmission with 13,000 miles on it. It's in perfect condition and I'm willing to ship it. $600.
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post #3 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 07:39 AM
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Maybe your shifter cable got detached at the shift lever.


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post #4 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 08:06 AM
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Take the transmission that's a good deal.

Next time u need to tow don't drop the rear axle. Shift the transfercase into neutral. Faster and you don't get dirty! LOL
Maybe that hit you like a v8 when you read this.

I would check the linkage as well first thing.
The shudder leads me to believe that fluid needed to be changed due to a lot of fibres from plates. You may not have over heated it but it only takes once to do some damage. The fibres could be affecting the valve body. When or if you ever get a transmission fluid exchange done, ask to watch. You will see depending on equipment used how dirty the fluid actually is vs looking at just a drop.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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Last edited by JeepUpKeep37s; 04-24-2013 at 08:14 AM.
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post #5 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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I tried putting the t case in neutral. Transmission wouldn't let the t case shift it in park and trans was still in reverse in neutral. Even with the jeep off and rocking it wouldn't allow me to shift the t case out. So I pulled the shaft to free the trans and t case up so it could roll.

The shudder is the same ol shudder in reverse all of them seem to have with autos. Never done it in any forward gears.
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 08:58 AM
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How do you know that it's never "Overheated" ???

If Recall # J30 hasn't been done, or you don't have a temp monitor on the tranny fluid--"BAM", it may have overheated several times, when you used 4hi, or did a lotta sand playing-I don't know, but these 42rle all overheat without mods--ie aux coolers and temp monitors-

I don't think that it's linkage-

Probably the TQ (shudder) and clutch plates-

Good luck

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post #7 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjjeep08 View Post
I tried putting the t case in neutral. Transmission wouldn't let the t case shift it in park and trans was still in reverse in neutral. Even with the jeep off and rocking it wouldn't allow me to shift the t case out. So I pulled the shaft to free the trans and t case up so it could roll.

The shudder is the same ol shudder in reverse all of them seem to have with autos. Never done it in any forward gears.
Ok. Well just so you know factory transmission and cooler in winter driving around in the city typical temps run about 190 to 200 and I have seen 210. Too hot. I bypassed the cooler cause it was leaking and put in an aftermarket cooler,cause that is easier and cheaper and now proven to be more effective, the temps now operate at 130 to 170. Much better. I plan on changing the fluid to take care of the transmission. That will be its third change in 60,000 miles. Yep may seem like a lot but if I don't have to repair the transmission and it will operate better then why wouldn't I.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #8 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I don't know for sure that it hasn't ever overheated, but at the time this occurred it had ran 5 miles and shut off for an hour. When I cranked it the engine and trans where cold with no forward gears.
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 11:19 AM
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Please check the transmission linkage first especially the cable ends on both the transmission and the shift lever


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post #10 of 21 Old 04-24-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Panamon Creel View Post
Please check the transmission linkage first especially the cable ends on both the transmission and the shift lever
Gotta start somewhere.

After that you could try dropping the pan replacing the filter and some fluid and see if its fixed.

A transmission shop took our wj in and could not find anything wrong. We had no drive forward or reverse unless the engine was revved up to very high rpms. Everything was checked and found to be great. Put it back together and it has worked for over a year and has been solid. Transmission shops explanation was a faulty check valve in the filter. I didn't even know it was possible. I believe him. He could have sold me a trans when it didn't need it.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #11 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 05:29 AM
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I would hook up a scanner to it such as the Starscan or Snap on Solis etc that can monitor the shifter positions in the range sensor and look at a chart to make sure that when you physically shift the gears that the transmission is in the correct range and that nothing is out of specs with in comparison with the TRS and the chart of numbers you should be seeing on the scanner. I am not a trans person but I have had to do this to adjust my shifter cable when I did an auto conversion. also see if there are any active or pending codes the 42RLE will display codes when it has errors but it may not kick on the check engine light
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
I would hook up a scanner to it such as the Starscan or Snap on Solis etc that can monitor the shifter positions in the range sensor and look at a chart to make sure that when you physically shift the gears that the transmission is in the correct range and that nothing is out of specs with in comparison with the TRS and the chart of numbers you should be seeing on the scanner. I am not a trans person but I have had to do this to adjust my shifter cable when I did an auto conversion. also see if there are any active or pending codes the 42RLE will display codes when it has errors but it may not kick on the check engine light
You would, would you! Like I dream of genie walks by and you ask her to do blinking head bob and proof, the scanner you need appears. Come no one just has that sitting in their garage. c

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #13 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 08:32 AM
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You are going to need some kind of scanner to check for codes and then i would pull the pan down and see if there is any thing in the PAN.

Is the fuild RED or Black?

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post #14 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Fluid looks brand new. No burnt smell either.
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys I checked my shifter cable this evening and it works as it should. Shifted transmission by hand and still same thing. I have park, reverse, stays in reverse in neutral and park in drive, 2nd, and 1st. Could it be a bad valvebody by chance? Or the selector slide above the valvebody?
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-25-2013, 08:16 PM
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at least that is accesible and is not a total R&R of transmission? am I correct?

Alright then I concede. time for a scanner as JSS and AOR suggest. short of buying one is there anyway you, bjjeep08, would have access to one?

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #17 of 21 Old 04-26-2013, 08:27 AM
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Sounds like your Under Drive clutch pack is not engaging, could be your Low/Reverse switch valve or something else. So yes time to retrieve trouble codes and get pressure diagnostics done


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post #18 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 07:47 PM
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I am currently experiencing the same problem as the OP. The jeep will shift and drive in reverse but when shifted into drive it does not engage and wonít move. I have recently destroyed my rear gears which have been replaced but when taking the jeep off the lift this new problem was found.

I do have a B&M trans cooler installed so I am hoping that overheating is not the issue. I will try/check on some of the recommended solutions stated above on Wednesday when I get some more time. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what me be the issue other than what is stated above?

To the OP, were you able to figure out what exactly the problem was? If so could you post up to possibly help me expedite my fix, assuming that I am having the same issue.

Kyle
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post #19 of 21 Old 09-06-2013, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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I still have not found the issue. I have put in 4 new transmissions. Each with problems. Finally my pcm has crapped out. Finally broke down and carried the jeep to the dodge dealership. They can't figure out what my problem is either. Chrysler's answer to the dealership was to put factory gears and tires back on my jeep!!!! I honestly believe my programmer is not adjusting my computer for the change on the output rpm speed on the tranny. Slips horribly in 1st if you can get it to take first and also won't allow the torque converter to lock up. Anyone have any ideas?
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post #20 of 21 Old 09-07-2013, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphalt assault View Post
You would, would you! Like I dream of genie walks by and you ask her to do blinking head bob and proof, the scanner you need appears. Come no one just has that sitting in their garage. c
You don't have one? Shit with a jeeps it's a nessecty.

Op clear your codes it might have went in to limp and code will say 3rd gear wrong ratio or some crap like that
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post #21 of 21 Old 09-07-2013, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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I have cleared codes multiple times. I have a book of paperwork from datalogging and pulling codes with the snap on and mobis scanners. I have not gotten the 3rd gear ratio code onky 1st and immediate shift fault. I can drive it a few miles then starts throwing the codes. Torque converter will not lock up at all as well. I got tired of fooling with it after I replaced the 1st 2 tranmissions ( underdrive clutches burn out of oem and replacement had a pinched pump seal). The last 2 trannys were put in while at a reputable transmission shop. He finally gave up after tearing both trannys apart investigating the problem. To me it seems the input rpm and the output rpm are so far off with the 5.13s and 37s. I have a superchips flashpaq and once the tune is installed the only code that stops is limp mode as I can always go through the gears. After a few miles it will start off in 2nd and shift through 4 with no tc lock up.
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