Thanks for all of the reply's and the suggestions. But here is my problem, as a newbie when it comes to jeeps and lifts I am amazed there isn't a consensus of how to fix seemingly common problems on a lift. On this thread alone there has been the suggestions of control arms, control arm drop brackets, and a high steer kit. Don't get me wrong, I am grateful for the assistance but I am suprized there isn't a clear cut answer. As someone mentioned, I don't want to start throwing things at it in the hope I get it right. I assumed a higher end lift (insert your favorite name) would have these issues worked out.
Ha Ha...this subject is such a tough one as each jeep for whatever reason reacts extremely different to the same lift. There are numerous factors that cause this anomaly. For example, the factory "C's" may be installed at slightly different positions, enough so that it makes getting the caster even close on both sides almost impossible. Although pressed on before welding, they may also be tilted slightly inboard or outboard too depending on how accurate the milling was done which makes the camber tough to deal with too. These two issues alone wreak havoc on alignments especially after lifting only as much as 2 1/2".
Add to those possible problems, control arm mounts that aren't located in just the right position on both the axle and frame sides and use fixed ca's and then your twisting things up even more. I've seen differences on ca's as much as 1/2" which is huge when you think about it, but again very common.
Now imagine that you have only one adjustment available to you where all other variables are fixed. This is the toe in or out on the tires, not much one can do with that so the dealer or some lift kits include a caster cam kit. Essentially this simply replaces your lower control arm bolts with bolts that have one side flattened which mates to a hole on an eccentric washer. These washers hit little hubs on the lca mount and allow you to turn the bolt which in turn lengthens or shortens the arm position. The stock lca munts have square holes which have to be ground out a little longer to allow for pushing the axle forward slightly, lowering the pinion angle or pulling it back raising the pinion angle.
This is the same adjustment that takes place with adjustable control arms. Adjusting the pinion angle up or down also adjusts the caster positive or negative. Once you get the alignment correct by one means or another, you may end up having to make allowances with the draglink and panhard. Typically these two need to run exactly parallel with one another in order to avoid bumpsteer issues. Blah, blah, blah...
And so goes the battle until you find the formula that works best for your rig. Seriously though, we find that after doing a lift on one jeep and going out for the test drive that all it needs is the steering wheel straightened and it's done. Others need all sorts of adjustments and sometimes extra parts just to get the same results. Again, the variables are so vast that you really don't know until you lift it what your gonna have to do to correct things. We do battle much less on 2" and lower lifts though. 3" and up, war on. lol Good luck man