Installed Rock Krawler stock mod, issues with front adj track bar - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 04-21-2013, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Installed Rock Krawler stock mod, issues with front adj track bar

So just finished up the install. Couple of issues. First, the track bar "stock" was cut on a band saw and never trued up in a lathe, so neither jam nut would actually make even contact with the track bar. When the jam nut would get tight, I still had 1/16-3/32" of gap on the other side of the nut... You could see the band saw marks. With the end not cut flush, the jam nut would only tighten and touch on a small fraction of the surface area it should have...

Second, once installed, I greased the frame mounted joint and the grease pushed one of the poly pieces 1/4" out of the joint... The bolt was tightened all the way but only clamping the metal tube inside the joint like it was supposed to... Dont understand why there is so room inside the frame bracket. Will post a picture in a few minutes...
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post #2 of 32 Old 04-21-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
So just finished up the install. Couple of issues. First, the track bar "stock" was cut on a band saw and never trued up in a lathe, so neither jam nut would actually make even contact with the track bar. When the jam nut would get tight, I still had 1/16-3/32" of gap on the other side of the nut... You could see the band saw marks. With the end not cut flush, the jam nut would only tighten and touch on a small fraction of the surface area it should have...

Second, once installed, I greased the frame mounted joint and the grease pushed one of the poly pieces 1/4" out of the joint... The bolt was tightened all the way but only clamping the metal tube inside the joint like it was supposed to... Dont understand why there is so room inside the frame bracket. Will post a picture in a few minutes...
Unfortunately its about quality control. I love Rock Krawler for example but I can't tell you how many control arms I have seen cut the same way. Major drag when you can't get full contact on the jamb nut. Never gonna hold correctly with that little contact.

Best thing to do is remove the joint, grind the face of the bung down until you get full contact on the jamb nut then just repaint it and your done.

The bushing thing just sounds like it's really tight on the sleeve and that maybe the two halves (if it has a two piece bushing) are supper tight and when you greased it, it just pushed one side of the bushing out a little. Remove the bushing, clean it and pre-grease it before putting it together and installing it. Then when you do grease it try to remember there's very little room for the grease so don't over grease it or you will push it out again. This is pretty common but usually the mount keeps the bushing from moving. Guess the picture will explain why there's enough room for it to move. Hopefully this helps.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #3 of 32 Old 04-21-2013, 05:57 PM
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Wouldn't a few wisks with a file solve your jam nut issue? I know it's not nice to have to do that to new parts, but that's what I would do.

On the greasing, I'm not sure what grease they've recommended. I know my track bar has never been greased at the bushing, with no apparent ill effects.

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post #4 of 32 Old 04-21-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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I did end up taking a sander to the track bar to fix the manufacturing defect bc I just wanted to be done. It should have been done correctly though from the mfg. I was hesitant to go this route but did based on the advice of several others. So far not that impressed.
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post #5 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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So here is the frame end bushing. I don't think the poly pieces should have that much room inside the bracket. Thoughts?
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post #6 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 02:38 PM
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I don't see what difference it will make if it's squished int he mount or not. The compression of the mount against the sleeve in the bushing is done by the bolt. After that the bushing is offering dampening between the track bar and the frame still.

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post #7 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 02:53 PM
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+1 what Goody said, nothing is going to happen with the PU bushing being pushed out a bit.


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post #8 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 03:19 PM
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Looks pretty normal to me. Little room for the grease to pack in. I've had/installed a lot of RK track bars. I've never seen one fail. Kinda sucks that you had to face the end of the bar yourself... I've honestly never seen that either. But valid concern.
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post #9 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 03:20 PM
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That's strange and frustrating on the jam nut / cut on the track bar. I'm sorry you had that issue man.

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post #10 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments, I will stop worrying about the bushing for now. Marcus, thank, i would have called you for help but anything you could have done would have still stopped me from finishing this weekend. It is frustrating to spend good money on parts that have QC problems. I will keep an eye on my jam nuts to be sure..

On a side note, did anyone else have a hard time getting their front passenger bilstein 5100 shock in on a 2013? There is a plastic bracket right above the shock and the 5100's require you to have an Allen key in the top to install. Factory shocks have a nut on the shaft so you can hold it while you tighten the shock. I had to Dremel out the bottom of that plastic piece to make room for the Allen and a wrench.

Last edited by x-rated; 04-22-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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post #11 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
Thanks for the comments, I will stop worrying about the bushing for now. Marcus, thanks. It is frustrating to spend good money on parts that have QC problems. I will keep an eye on my jamb nuts to be sure..

On a side note, did anyone else have a hard time getting their front passenger bilstein 5100 shock in on a 2013? There is a plastic bracket right above the shock and the 5100's require you to have an Allen key in the top to install. Factory shocks have a nut on the shaft so you can hold it while you tighten the shock. I had to Dremel out the bottom of that plastic piece to make room for the Allen and a wrench.
The inner fender plastic came in with the new motor and it makes it a real pain in the ass to install a shock. Most do what you did with the dremel but it is also possible to just break the plastic away because it is a grid pattern and will generally break on straight lines.

When I tighten Bilsteins I use painter's tape and a pair of Vice-Grips on the shaft at the very top. They hold the shaft while tightening and the painters tape keeps you from scratching them.

Marcus


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post #12 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 05:36 PM
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Is a "JamB" Nut something they put in your Jamba Juice for extra protein or something?

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post #13 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 06:07 PM
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Just a side question. Do the RK bushings need to be drilled for 9/16" bolts?

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post #14 of 32 Old 04-22-2013, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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No. I used 9/16 bolts... Jamb nuts are better than ham nuts...
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post #15 of 32 Old 04-24-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
So just finished up the install. Couple of issues. First, the track bar "stock" was cut on a band saw and never trued up in a lathe, so neither jam nut would actually make even contact with the track bar. When the jam nut would get tight, I still had 1/16-3/32" of gap on the other side of the nut... You could see the band saw marks. With the end not cut flush, the jam nut would only tighten and touch on a small fraction of the surface area it should have...

Second, once installed, I greased the frame mounted joint and the grease pushed one of the poly pieces 1/4" out of the joint... The bolt was tightened all the way but only clamping the metal tube inside the joint like it was supposed to... Dont understand why there is so room inside the frame bracket. Will post a picture in a few minutes...
Sir,

How far off was the cut on the bar to the jam nut? Did you happen to take a picture of the end with the jam nut sitting against it? We would definitely like to see this to bring it up to quality control. Another thing you could have checked is to make sure the jam nut itself was not the problem and tapped crooked. This has been the culprit in the past when we have seen a bar with a jam nut not making contact all the way around. All of our arms are indeed cut in band saws so typically we would be seeing a lot of complaints about jam nuts not resting true if the problem lied in the arm. There is quite a few sets of eyes that check our kits so our machine shop would be notified asap if that looked to be the problem that was showing up often. As far as the bushings go Goody said it well, if you see this being an issue in the future just let us know we can send you another sleeve. It is possible it ran a hair to long and is letting the bushings have more movement in the mount then normal.

RK
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post #16 of 32 Old 04-25-2013, 04:15 AM
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Mine is the same way, (jam nut). I will get you a picture later today.

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post #17 of 32 Old 04-26-2013, 04:21 PM
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Ok here are the pictures. It is not bad but it is enough that it will prevent the jam nut from staying tight. Tapped threads appeared to be straight.

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post #18 of 32 Old 04-26-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Mine was at least that bad but I think worse
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post #19 of 32 Old 04-26-2013, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
Mine was at least that bad but I think worse
Wow, that's not good. Just going to hit it with a grinder, just shouldn't have to correct things you buy before you install them. I know it happens just shouldn't.

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post #20 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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It really bothers me to spend lots of money on parts that are supposedly top notch and then have to fix them before I install them. I just installed a aev 3.5 kit on my friends jk and everything was perfect and it rides great. I had fix the RK kit and it doesn't ride anywhere near as nice as the aev kit or stock for that matter. Bounces all over the place with every bump in the road. Not smooth at all like the aev. Anyone who says RK lift kits ride better than stock is full of shit.
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post #21 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
Sir,

Another thing you could have checked is to make sure the jam nut itself was not the problem and tapped crooked. This has been the culprit in the past when we have seen a bar with a jam nut not making contact all the way around. All of our arms are indeed cut in band saws so typically we would be seeing a lot of complaints about jam nuts not resting true if the problem lied in the arm.
RK
The problem is defiantly your arm and not the jam nut. No bandsaw is going to cut square. Maybe close, but not square. The bars should cut tried up in a lathe and drilled and tapped in the lathe too if you wanted to do it right. I wanted to be sure it was the arm and not the bar so i turned the joint 1/4 turn checked where the jam nut made contact. Did that 4 times. Jam nuts made contact at the same spot every time. Even flipped the jam nut. Problem was either the hole was drilled crooked or the bar wasn't cut square.
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post #22 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
As far as the bushings go Goody said it well, if you see this being an issue in the future just let us know we can send you another sleeve. It is possible it ran a hair to long and is letting the bushings have more movement in the mount then normal.
Do you make or purchase your sleeves? Please post the correct length of the spacer. And the correct width of the bushings outside to outside. I will drop my track bar again and measure what I was sent.
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post #23 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 08:49 AM
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So with the amount of these ends I am seeing, it's obvious to me that RK has changed their supplier. The last lift we did had several ca's with the same problem. They replaced the arms for us and they should do the same for you guys. I haven't made a big stink about it yet but I'm thinking we should all maybe talk to Marcus at RCO and have him see what RK tells him and what they are going to do to take care of the issue.

If this has already been done then I missed it so forgive me. If not, lets get to the bottom of the problem. RK is a solid company and though they have their little quirks, I think they are the kind of folks that will get things taken care of quickly.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #24 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
It really bothers me to spend lots of money on parts that are supposedly top notch and then have to fix them before I install them. I just installed a aev 3.5 kit on my friends jk and everything was perfect and it rides great. I had fix the RK kit and it doesn't ride anywhere near as nice as the aev kit or stock for that matter. Bounces all over the place with every bump in the road. Not smooth at all like the aev. Anyone who says RK lift kits ride better than stock is full of shit.
Wow, I'm surprised to hear this. Every RK lift we have installed has resulted in a better ride than stock. To date we have only one lift that has been giving us troubles but those troubles are primarily alignment and tracking issues. I don't think the issue relates to a parts problem and most likely is due to stock mount misalignment's.

Shocks play a huge part in a lifts ride. You may want to consider different shocks. I realize most people are on a budget but if you get the standard fare, inexpensive shocks, your going to not be nearly as happy with the overall ride. However, most guys that run Bilsteins for example are quite pleased with the ride. Personally I'm not a fan. Run through the lift, check that everything is tight and positioned properly. Make sure the springs are retained and align the panhards so that your axles are as centered as you can get them. Also drop your tire pressure when hitting the trail if you haven't tried that. If you are still having ride issues let us know or contact RK and let them know.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #25 of 32 Old 04-27-2013, 09:13 AM
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Well as x-rated stated, the bars need to be chucked up in a lathe and the the ends squared up to the center line of the bar, then drilled and tapped to control the perpendicularity of the face. No way can you control flatness with a saw. I know it costs more to add operations to a part but some times they are just needed to control quality.

On a side note, what number is stamped into the end of your track bar? Mine has 2023. I know that the part number for the front is 2024. This may just be a tracking number for RK as I could not find that number anywhere in there parts list.

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