?'s about a D44 housing I'm thinking of buying need help - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 04-18-2013, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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?'s about a D44 housing I'm thinking of buying need help

The axle has a few upgrades but mainly bare...It has alloy axle tube seals ball joints diff cover bearing caps Ball joints are adjustable, he thinks the c's are bent, due to performing an alignment on vehilce before removing the alignment was in spec, which he believes is due to the adjustable ball joints.

So I'm strongly considering due to the fact I need to gusset and truss anyhow whether I get this axle or just on my D30, also need to re-gear and get lockers. I plan on using from my knuckles out for time being until I can get the Reids. So really the way I'm looking at it I'd only be out of pocket for the axle, getting the C's straightened and the axle shafts other than what I need anyhow.

My questions are does this sound about right to everyone else and is it possible to straighten the C's? Looking for feedback ASAP I don't want to lose the axle if it is a good deal.


The first pic is the drivers side the second pic is the passenger. And also does anyone know what ball joints those are?

Thanks,
Brandon

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post #2 of 20 Old 04-18-2013, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the second pic sorry

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-18-2013, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody?
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-18-2013, 08:12 PM
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-18-2013, 10:37 PM
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They are either an adjustable set or just an offset pair. For the kind of abuse the jeeps typically see I don't recommend using an offset bj. I along with many, many others here prefer using the PP bj.

As far as the C's being bent, we can't really tell that by a photo. Your gonna have to do some serious measuring to determine if they are out of spec. If they are, good luck bending them back. Not only are you gonna wish you had just bought another front axle, your just gonna weaken the metal if your successful then things will really start bending all to hell. You could go so far as to get new C's and just cut the old ones off and install new ones but that would only be reasonable if the front axle was super cheap and you can do all the work yourself, otherwise it's gonna cost a small fortune for you to have a shop do that kind of work.

Sounds like the guy thinks they are bent so I'd say look elsewhere. Lots of deals to be had out there. Good luck

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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So it is possible to cut the C's off and weld new ones on that are gusseted? Where would I come across the C's cause I mean I'd be getting the housing for what I consider cheap...hopefully around or a little less than $700
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post #7 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so even if the c is slightly bent gussetting trussing and sleeping the axle won't prevent it from bending more? Cause I mean if I have to buy all the in needs for this axle if it ever gets to bad ill just buy a pr housing and swap internals just don't have the cash for a pr right now.
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post #8 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 09:55 AM
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you can gring the weld on the C's and remove them for new ones. if your going to go through all that trouble you might as well turn the C's as well.

this might give you some info on that process.
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90717

if the C is bent it will be a pain to align and will probably wear BJ and tires. sleeves and truss for the axle tubes, and gussets for the new C's if you go with this axle.

with the cost of the axle and all the labor and parts you might be closer to a PR than you think.

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post #9 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Ya i dont think i would try to bend it back...and depending on if it is bent and how bad i may try and replace the C. The guy also said that it aligns fine and he had no issues in abnormal wear or any steering issues... I only keep adding more to see cause a buddy of mine can weld so any welding we could do. The gears would really be the only part I would have a shop do. The rest would be done myself. This guy had the axle for 5 months he's honestly not even sure the C's are bent after talking with him more he " just figured they were since it had adjustable ball joints". Which I mean I don't blame him but I just keep going back and forth on if its worth it at such a cheap price : /
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post #10 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 10:32 AM
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Determine if it has bent C's or a bent housing before you start thinking about just chopping the C's off. I was quoted 7-8 hours of labor to straighten my front housing, before we even got around to the pricing for welding gussets and sleeves. (Sure would have been easier if I had any proficiency with welding).

If you are set on a factory 44 upgrade, start adding up the overall costs, including any labor. You can get a brand new factory 44, that isn't pre-bent, for a little over $900. Might be better than starting with one you know has issues. Then $1400 and change for the locker, gears & install kit, shafts, gussets & truss.

There is a reason that this person is selling, he knows it's bent. Just a suggestion, but I'd do the homework before you hand out the cash...
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post #11 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Where can you find them for $900 I've been looking but everything I find is like $1600+
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post #12 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 04:02 PM
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http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/...=20&type=parts

Front housing
Wrangler, w/Heavy Duty(Dana 44)
List Price : $1,320.00
Your Price : $924.00

Front Locker
Wrangler, w/Heavy Duty(Dana 44)
List Price : $1,860.00
Your Price : $1,302.00


And damn, the prices dropped a ton on the loaded rubi assembly since last time I was on there.

Front axle assy
Wrangler, w/Heavy Duty(Dana 44)
List Price : $3,800.00
Your Price : $2,660.00

(but again, axle + gears & install + gussets/truss & install + ... and you're close enough that you should be considering aftermarket)

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post #13 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 08:33 AM
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We sell them all the time for anywhere between 25-2800 that comes with a straight housing, Locker and gears we can do the shafts as well for a little extra

we have a 2012 set right now with 5.38s ready to go. Less than 20k miles Its already sleeved and gusseted as well

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post #14 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 09:37 AM
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Well it sounds like the guy was just guessing that it's bent based on your statement about the bj's. We have a local shop here that has tried to sway a couple guys to install offset bj's to aid in alignment ease. We no longer let people take their jeeps there. Lol

Bottom line is that if you buy ANY used axle housing you stand the risk of getting one that's tweaked. In this case it seems like they either installed offsets to compensate for a pia alignment that was used on the street primarily or, that the c's got bent and they just couldn't get things to adjust out. My gut feeling on this now is that they just put the offsets in to make things easy.

BUT...

What does the housing look like? By that I mean is it all hammered out with huge gouges on the underside of the diff housing and lca mounts. Usually if a housing is super clean its a pretty good indication that its okay. However, all it take s is one front end lift off the ground and a hard impact down to bend shit up.

You can find good housings under 1k like several have mentioned. But if your willing to take the risk and have a buddy to help weld things up then you already have your answer. Get the Artec truss and armor package if you do. I have axles #9 & #10 on the table now. Good shit! Don't bother with sleeves, just truss it. Make sure you install a Johnny joint front housing kit beforehand that way your ready for future changes down the road. You can't easily install the tower after the truss is on. Also consider new $40 lower control arm mounts and get rid of those wonderful square hole wonders.

Good luck man, tough choice but we'll all keep our fingers crossed for ya. Just be forewarned that if the axle is all bent to shit after you get it that you might not survive the "told you so's". LOL

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Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #15 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M&M's View Post
Well it sounds like the guy was just guessing that it's bent based on your statement about the bj's. We have a local shop here that has tried to sway a couple guys to install offset bj's to aid in alignment ease. We no longer let people take their jeeps there. Lol

Bottom line is that if you buy ANY used axle housing you stand the risk of getting one that's tweaked. In this case it seems like they either installed offsets to compensate for a pia alignment that was used on the street primarily or, that the c's got bent and they just couldn't get things to adjust out. My gut feeling on this now is that they just put the offsets in to make things easy.

BUT...

What does the housing look like? By that I mean is it all hammered out with huge gouges on the underside of the diff housing and lca mounts. Usually if a housing is super clean its a pretty good indication that its okay. However, all it take s is one front end lift off the ground and a hard impact down to bend shit up.

You can find good housings under 1k like several have mentioned. But if your willing to take the risk and have a buddy to help weld things up then you already have your answer. Get the Artec truss and armor package if you do. I have axles #9 & #10 on the table now. Good shit! Don't bother with sleeves, just truss it. Make sure you install a Johnny joint front housing kit beforehand that way your ready for future changes down the road. You can't easily install the tower after the truss is on. Also consider new $40 lower control arm mounts and get rid of those wonderful square hole wonders.

Good luck man, tough choice but we'll all keep our fingers crossed for ya. Just be forewarned that if the axle is all bent to shit after you get it that you might not survive the "told you so's". LOL

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Here is a pic of the housing...and ya the I told ya so's won't be as bad as my kicking my own a$$ for wasting the money if I do it lol

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post #16 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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And the other one I have also have a pic of the inside of the diff cover but can't really tell if its banged up dont see any major dents

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post #17 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 12:00 PM
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See if its possible to get some good quality pics of the bottom side of the diff and lower control arms. Those are gonna tell ya whether or not its seen lots of heavy trail use. Doesn't mean its bad, just gives you an idea of the use its seen. Maybe a close up of the plug welds too at the diff where the axle tubes are pressed in. Beyond that I really don't know what else to tell ya other than good luck.

See if maybe you could either get shipping covered in the cost or drop the price of a few hundred bucks initially then if everything pans out you could send him the extra cash? Dunno, just looking for some angles for ya here and maybe a way to compromise if the seller is willing to work with ya.

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Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #18 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 02:29 PM
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If the seller is local, you could see if any of your area shops have an alignment bar you could borrow or rent cheap.
I haven't seen any firm ways to verify a bent C other than alignment numbers (?), but at least you can verify that the housing is or isn't bent.
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post #19 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately the seller is located near Portland Oregon and I live in Houston, TX lol. But here are some pics of the lower control arm mounts and the bottom of the housing.





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post #20 of 20 Old 04-20-2013, 05:51 PM
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Well it definitely looks like it been wheeled a bit and drug across some rocks for sure. Not as bad as some, hell nowhere near as bad as mine is. lol

Nothing is screaming it's been abused, but again tough to say just from pics. The only worry area I can think of is the potentially bent "C's". I'd say it's worth a shot as long as you can get the guy to drop the price by a couple hundred bucks with the agreement that if you find the C's are good you'll give him the difference back after you confirm it.

If it were me selling it I would be totally okay with that sort of deal. It's the kind of thing that basically makes everybody happy and is a good gesture of not trying to screw somebody by selling them busted up parts. You either know its busted up or you don't. If you have no way of knowing, which I tend to think that most would just find out if the things are bent before pawning it off on someone else, then you gotta just take a loss and give the best info you can up front.

One of the axles I have on the table right now was bought by a guy here locally and if I'm not mistaken he bought it for $700.00. It's a D44 out of a Rubicon, has factory locker and stock gears. It didn't come with knuckles, drums, rotors or shafts. Don't think it was ever taken off road. Looks brand new really. I have added new hd lower control arm mounts, c-gussets, front johnny joint housing kit and a Artec truss and Artec HD raised trackbar mount. This just goes to show that there are very good deals for axles that are in great condition.

My vote is have the price drop $200.00 and be given a chance to inspect it for serious damages first then you can work out getting him the balance. If he's against that sort of deal then chances are he knows it's garbage.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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