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post #1 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Unsure and need advice

I am new to the JK and need advice. I had a TJ in the past that I built but when it comes to my unlimited I am unsure of what to do. I am thinking of a 6" long arm with 35s. Is there anything else I need to consider such as driveshaft mods and gearing on my daily driven, weekend beaten on my 2011 Black Ops Rubi?
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 11:18 AM
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Do some searching around the forum. 6" on a JK is a lot of lift for 35's.

I've owned two TJ's and there are huge differences in the suspension and fender clearances. Most people will agree that what it takes to run 35's on a TJ does not translate to the JK world at all.

Most people are doing 2.5" to 3.5" of lift for 35's with stock flares. If you go with flat flares you can run 35's with no lift.

'09 JKUR. Metal Cloak overlines, TF 3" LA, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Home built winch bumper, custom built sliders, RK Drag Link and HD Pro Tie rod, Adams front shaft, TF Big Brakes, Speed Bumps, Warn M8000
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDukit View Post
Do some searching around the forum. 6" on a JK is a lot of lift for 35's.

I've owned two TJ's and there are huge differences in the suspension and fender clearances. Most people will agree that what it takes to run 35's on a TJ does not translate to the JK world at all.

Most people are doing 2.5" to 3.5" of lift for 35's with stock flares. If you go with flat flares you can run 35's with no lift.
X2... If you want 6" of lift, you should be looking at 40+" tires, and if you are going with tires that size, there is A LOT that needs to happen to make that a reliable rig.

2008 Steel Blue JK Unlimited Rubicon
RE 4.5" LA
37" KM2's on 17x8.5 MB72's
Poly Tie Rod, Poly Steering Relo, Poly Draglink
5.13's, C-Gussets
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 12:15 PM
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I am running 40's with 4" of lift. 6" and 35's will look like roller-skates.
Most people will do a 2.5" lift to run 35's Flat fenders will also give you more clearance and the look of a bigger lift without all the headaches.

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post #5 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 12:45 PM
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2.5" and 35s is perfect.

POISON SPYDER ROCK KRAWLER POLY RCV YUKON AEV TATTON MBRP TERAFLEX BILSTEIN JKS RAMSEY ROCK HARD WURX NEMESIS SPOD RIGID
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 01:00 PM
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I have 6" Teraflex LA 37's. I'm happy. 35's might be too small just like they say. Best of luck.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 01:19 PM
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6" teraflex = 3" any other lift. Just sayin.

POISON SPYDER ROCK KRAWLER POLY RCV YUKON AEV TATTON MBRP TERAFLEX BILSTEIN JKS RAMSEY ROCK HARD WURX NEMESIS SPOD RIGID
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyjeep95 View Post
6" teraflex = 3" any other lift. Just sayin.
^^^ LOL...

Like many on here are saying, check out Rock Krawler. Depending on how you wheel and what your plans are, there's a RK lift for you. If money wasn't an issue and you were looking to set yourself up with a very nice on and off road rig capable of most things you could throw at it, I'd look at the JK 3.5 X Factor Plus System.

It has a very stable 3-link rear lift as long as you go with something like a Currie AntiRock on the rear to replace the stock swaybar. This is one of my favorite RK lifts and the more we install the more we like them. As far as streetability goes, it handles very, very well.

Don't skimp on shocks, get the best quality you can afford. And for the rears get the relocation bracket so you can raise them up and cut 2" off the bottom mount. Also pick up a Poly Performance rear long travel upper shock mount. This will allow you to keep the travel of your rear shock after raising the lower bracket.

If you set the bumpstops up correctly, you can run 37's all day long, no problem. Running flat fenders is the way to go so you get max travel out of it too. Flat fenders will also allow you to run even bigger tires than 37's but you will have to adjust bumpstops and do some trimming of the body here and there.

And lastly, give Marcus a shout at River City Offroad. He's the most knowledgeable dealer of RK stuff on the internet and he's also a hell of a nice guy. He won't steer you wrong and he won't rip you off either. So do yourself a favor and give him a call before you order anything anywhere else. You'll be glad you did!!

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 04:03 PM
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Forgot to mention that yes, there are some other things to consider.

On an 11 and down, at least a front driveshaft will be necessary. If you go up to 4", you'll end up tearing up the stock front shaft pretty quickly. The rear you can run much longer if funds are tight and you have to pick and choose. Hell I'm still running mine and I have a pretty solid 4" lift and I'm just starting to get into the rear shaft a bit more now than ever but it's been over a year and it's still going strong.

Steering will be another issue for you. May want to consider a new draglink and tierod. Many folks are flipping the draglink and running a new mount for their trackbar to raise it as required. If you go 35's and up you really should consider hydro assist steering. If that's out of the question at least get a sector shaft brace. Either Poly Performance (but you do have to run their trackbar also to clear the brace), or Rock Solid Performance. They have a new brace out that you can run without a trackbar brace if you use their spacers and it should also work with every trackbar out there according to them. I actually just ordered one myself so I'll know shortly if it works with the Currie tierod.

Basically once you lift the jeep above 2.5" your going to get yourself into a whole bunch of related work that will drive your end cost way up. If you're looking to go all out, I'd go with the lift I mentioned above and start swiping plastic and get all the other related items coming in at the same time and just get it over.

I'm sure I missed a bunch of stuff but these are the main things you'll get into going up in height over 2.5". Food for thought anyway. lol

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

That helps. I didn't realize the difference between a TJ and a JK. I will just go with a minimal lift and flaties.
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-13-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherneck View Post
I am new to the JK and need advice. I had a TJ in the past that I built but when it comes to my unlimited I am unsure of what to do. I am thinking of a 6" long arm with 35s. Is there anything else I need to consider such as driveshaft mods and gearing on my daily driven, weekend beaten on my 2011 Black Ops Rubi?
Pretty much what everyone else said... NO WAY you need a LA or 6" for 35's. Look at a 2-3" for the tire size you are wanting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherneck View Post
That helps. I didn't realize the difference between a TJ and a JK. I will just go with a minimal lift and flaties.
HUGE DIFFERENCE. Hit me up if you looking for more detailed info on a kit that will work for your wheeling level, welcome to the JK club.


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