Poison spyder fender, rockers, and bumpers install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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Poison spyder fender, rockers, and bumpers install

First I am going to do the fenders. Got a good nutsert tool. Cans or rustoleum etching primer and truck bed liner. Denatured alcohol, scuff pads and all the other stuff.

I am going to look at adding a side marker light similar to the bushwacker flares.

I also picked up some Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy to put on the nutserts. I have red people using red loctite but I figured this epoxy would be better. Now in addition to the knurled edges on the nutsert, the epoxy will help prevent spinning. Anyone else use epoxy on the nutserts?

Fenders are first, just waiting on the weather to break so I can start prepping and painting. Any recommendations as I start?.
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 08:03 AM
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you could just use some JB quick but I have always worked with the "either it is installed right or it is wrong and spins"
I have also had better luck with a homemade install tool made from some brass washers, coupler nut and allen set screw than anything other than the high end tools
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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I bought one of the $100+ tools to avoid the pain. Hopefully it all goes well

I almost did the jb weld
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 10:59 AM
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When I do my OR Fab corner install I plan on using emblem adhesive on the nutcerts. That 3m emblem adhesive is good stuff.
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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but emblems are made to be removed. Not sure that is what you want to use
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
but emblems are made to be removed. Not sure that is what you want to use
Emblems do not come off easily. That adhesive holds really well. Consider how hard they are to get off and they are put on smooth polished paint. I have used it for stuff other than emblems and it whas worked really well.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 10:01 PM
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Don't waste your time with those snake oil things with nutcerts. Your just making more of a pain in the ass out of it. Spend the extra and get a westward tool for nutcerts. Nutcerts are way too much grief, to not do em right the first time. I had a bunch when I put on my metalcloaks. The tool it was a breeze. Just my two cents.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-12-2013, 10:07 PM
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I used epoxy when I first started. It didn't help, some of the nutserts still spun. Went out and bought a tool from harbor freight and did all the others and that is the best advice I can give you. The right tool will save you a lot of grief.

I did go back and use some paint on bed liner that I pretty much use on everything. (made by duplicolor) I used it to go over the nutserts to seal them. Quicker and faster than having to tape everything off and then spray, plus more durable.

Last edited by JAM JK; 04-12-2013 at 10:10 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-14-2013, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highwayman View Post
Don't waste your time with those snake oil things with nutcerts. Your just making more of a pain in the ass out of it. Spend the extra and get a westward tool for nutcerts. Nutcerts are way too much grief, to not do em right the first time. I had a bunch when I put on my metalcloaks. The tool it was a breeze. Just my two cents.
I bought a westward tool. Question, how do you know when the nutsert is properly crimped? The nutsert tool has to be able to accommodate different thicknesses. I thout poison spyder did a video on using that type of tool but I can't find it
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-14-2013, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
I bought a westward tool. Question, how do you know when the nutsert is properly crimped? The nutsert tool has to be able to accommodate different thicknesses. I thout poison spyder did a video on using that type of tool but I can't find it
With the Westward tool "open" and the nutsert screwed onto the snout, I set the depth to show me about 1/8" thread of the snout for my crimp. The more thread you show, the lesser the crimp [if that still works in my head right]

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post #11 of 12 Old 04-14-2013, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-rated View Post
I bought a westward tool. Question, how do you know when the nutsert is properly crimped? The nutsert tool has to be able to accommodate different thicknesses. I thout poison spyder did a video on using that type of tool but I can't find it
When I first bought the tool, I wondered the same thing and grabbed a piece of sheet metal that was similar in thickness and drilled some holes, then installed a few nutcerts to see what I wanted my adjustment to be.

Tim

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post #12 of 12 Old 04-14-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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All the nutserts are in. I read the instructions and it said that adjustment was for softer metals. Since I was going into steel, I tired one with it set all the way down, it looked good, and said [email protected] it and installed them all. Seems like it worked fine. Didn't do the epoxy like i planned. The holes were tight as hell. I had to push pretty hard to get them in, but I guess that is a good thing. Should hold better than if it was loose.

Got all the extra braces primed and painted. Also got the the front fenders primed and coated in rustoleum bed liner. So far I really like it. Nice texture. We will see how it holds up. If weather is good I will get the rears painted tomorrow and the fronts installed
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