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post #1 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Pulsating Vibration

I just installed OME 2" HD suspension, fought DW and won. Installed some 285/70r17 treadwrights and got this vibe. It happens around 65. It's rhythmic like vrrrrr, vrrrrr, vrrrrr. On and off like that. Mainly in the pedals and floor, nit in the steering. It's really light, can barely feel it, but am afraid of it getting worse.

I've pulled the front drive shaft and has same vibe. Slapped it back in and pulled the rear and still have the same vibe; could be a little less but could just be my imagination.

My angles on the back relative are 9.5 on the pinion and 13.5 at the transfer case. I forgot the angles from the front when I had it off, not do I have the angle from the drive shaft. I've got stock drive shafts. There are greese splatters around where the boots are, I've read that means the shafts are dying?

What are my options? Im thinking pull the front ds and start with the rear. Get adj rear lower control arms and push the axel out and pinion down to get a more parrallel t case to pinion? Or get a double carden cv rear drive shaft and adj upper control arms and get the pinion parallel to the ds?
Or just start with new rear ds? Or is this not a ds thing?

Last edited by Snazzy; 04-01-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 08:14 PM
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Did you install the lift and drive it before the tire change with no vibration issues? If you pulled the shafts and it still has the vibration I would look at the tires first you may have thrown a weight or just a bad ballance job?
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 08:42 PM
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Did you consider the front axles haft u joints? Are these tight?

Replacing front and rear ds is not a bad idea anyway FYI.

Tires are balanced? Any one tire with a lot of weight vs. others? Possible rebalance these?

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 09:04 PM
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When you say you fought DW and won, please clarify what you mean. Before or after the lift? And what was the cause of the DW?

Typically with only a 2" lift you should be able to run your stock shafts for awhile without real issues and the stock caster and pinion angle should be running fairly smooth. I didn't see the year of your jeep but if your seals are all rotted out and the grease has all blown out you could either just rebuild them or as stated, go with aftermarket shafts front and rear. New shafts really won't hurt having especially down the road if you decide to add more lift.

I agree with the others that have said to start with getting the tires rebalanced first before doing anything else. If after removing the driveshafts you didn't notice any real changes it very well could just be that. One question though; did you check your pinion nuts and output shaft nuts before you put the shafts back on? If any of those are loose then you can get some vibrations similar to what you are describing. Just something to check out and eliminate.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 09:30 PM
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Some grease spit out past the DS seal is no big deal. Its when the boot is torn ,that it becomes a problem and the bearing loses ALL its grease.

Usually stock driveshafts dont vibrate unless they have a bad ujoint, torn boot, weights ripped off, etc. but bad angles wont cause it to vibrate being that there is no ujoint on the other end to contend with at the tcase end (the front at least, rear, there are no ujoints.)

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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After installing the lift, it was good, no wobble or vibe. The tires were pretty shot and not evenly worn. I think thats what the root cause of the start of DW. I replaced the drag link joints at the pitman arm and knuckle, new synergy tie rod and synergy ball joints. That took care of the death wobble. No vibes but a little bit of wobble on the crappy roads here on the highway; not death wobble to where I had to stop to get the wobble to stop. So I bought some treadwrights and finally found someone to install them. They said they understood treadwrights instructions to balance them and said they balanced to zero. Ill count how much weight they put on but seemed fairly normal when I glanced over them. After installing the new tires I noticed this rhythmic vibe but def no more wobble at all.

Maybe I should have just gotten real tires? Ill see if the shop will double check the work. I had them done at NTB in alexandria VA.

I don't plan on going higher in the near future as this is a daily driver. If I don't have to get aftermarket shafts I don't really want to as I've read that opens up a whole other can of worms.

It's an 09 with 50K and the boots on the shafts all look good.

I haven't checked the torque on the output shafts or pinion nuts. What's their specs?
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-24-2013, 10:48 PM
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I see treadwrights are retreaded tires that is probably your problem you get what you pay for they might be balanced but out of round causing the noise and vibration?
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-25-2013, 11:05 AM
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Here's a link to Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings;

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...orque-settings



If you plan to keep your existing driveshafts then get a needle for your grease gun and shoot some grease into the boots unless of course you find they are totally rotted out or ripped to shreds. In that case you can rebuild them or add a secondary boot as some folks have done.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-25-2013, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Is any greese ok? Do you poke through the boot to stick more greese in, or do you slide the needle under the clip holding the boot down on the shaft?
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-26-2013, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snazzy View Post
Is any greese ok? Do you poke through the boot to stick more greese in, or do you slide the needle under the clip holding the boot down on the shaft?
You just poke through the boot, but move it around inside so the grease gets everywhere. You could use moly grease for that but again, make sure you get it in there good.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-26-2013, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M&M's View Post
You just poke through the boot, but move it around inside so the grease gets everywhere. You could use moly grease for that but again, make sure you get it in there good.
Wouldn't the grease come out through the hole at speed and make a mess? You know, with all the centrifugal force and stuff?
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-26-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legi0n View Post
Wouldn't the grease come out through the hole at speed and make a mess? You know, with all the centrifugal force and stuff?
If you want to service the factory shafts, you need to follow Goodys write up. Search repackaging/servicing stock driveshafts. You basically take off the end cap, remove the snap ring, pull off CV joint, place on flat surface, refill with moly/high pressure CV joint grease and reassemble. Simple injecting grease with a needle fitting through the boot wont get the grease where it needs to be im told

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