Minimum lift to run 4-link 60 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-23-2013, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

just a question for those who have done front 60 setups in their JK. what is the minimum lift you can run in order to still run two upper control arms? i know the pumpkin is significantly larger on a 60 compared to a 44 and im not a big fan of 3 link set ups

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post #2 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 06:40 AM
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Re: Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

There are many variables but I'd say 4" minimal if u want high steer. And you still might need to notch the frame for the drag link and TB. This is depending how much up travel you want along wih tire size.

Don't let cutting the frame detour you its really easy to do and doesn't take much time at all. Frame is so thin it cuts like warm cheese.

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post #3 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

Awesome, thanks

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post #4 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 08:07 AM
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From what i have heard, you can't run a 4 link in the front without full hydro steering,due to the drag ling causing a bind.
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post #5 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 08:16 AM
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Just out of curiosity why are you against a 3 link? Im curious as to the OP question as well though, how much lift are most running after doing a one ton swap? Lets say with 40" tires.
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post #6 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tat2dfreak View Post
From what i have heard, you can't run a 4 link in the front without full hydro steering,due to the drag ling causing a bind.
you're talking about a triangulated 4 link... a triangulated 4 link centers itself and only moves the axle up and down, that is why a trackbar/draglink set up wont work on a triangulated 4 link. i want to stick with the conventional 4 link

a jk comes from the factory with a 4 link already...

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post #7 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOT_DAMN View Post
Just out of curiosity why are you against a 3 link? Im curious as to the OP question as well though, how much lift are most running after doing a one ton swap? Lets say with 40" tires.
i dont want all the stress on one mount, yes i know people run it and they've been "fine".

ask Planman about his setup actually, i think he runs like 4"

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post #8 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 04:37 PM
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I run 4.5" lift with a lot of bump stop extension probably 7"s. The truss you would need to run a drivers side mount, would not clear on my set up. I am also 2"s forward with my 60 because of this the trackbar is directly over the center diff. I moved it forward to clear the oil pan at full stuff however that was before all the bumpstop was add to keep the 42s off the fenders. You may be able to weld to the cast but I didn't want to take the chance. I used 7/8 hiem joints on both ends and a huge mount from RuffStuff that thing is not the week link. My lower arms will break before the .250 wall DOM upper arm or mounts will.

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post #9 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

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Originally Posted by racker8wr View Post
I run 4.5" lift with a lot of bump stop extension probably 7"s. The truss you would need to run a drivers side mount, would not clear on my set up. I am also 2"s forward with my 60 because of this the trackbar is directly over the center diff. I moved it forward to clear the oil pan at full stuff however that was before all the bumpstop was add to keep the 42s off the fenders. You may be able to weld to the cast but I didn't want to take the chance. I used 7/8 hiem joints on both ends and a huge mount from RuffStuff that thing is not the week link. My lower arms will break before the .250 wall DOM upper arm or mounts will.
What if its a like a prorock 60 or a SolidAxle 60 where a truss is not required. I am assuming that will give me an extra 1.5" of wiggle room for the drivers side upper arm?

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post #10 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 05:24 PM
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
you're talking about a triangulated 4 link... a triangulated 4 link centers itself and only moves the axle up and down, that is why a trackbar/draglink set up wont work on a triangulated 4 link. i want to stick with the conventional 4 link

a jk comes from the factory with a 4 link already...
So then you just want to do a long arm set up.
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post #11 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tat2dfreak View Post
So then you just want to do a long arm set up.
well im talking about clearance issues with the drivers side upper arm, regardless of whether or not its long arm. long arm or short arm what the JK's come with is considered a 4-link system

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post #12 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 06:18 PM
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
well im talking about clearance issues with the drivers side upper arm, regardless of whether or not its long arm. long arm or short arm what the JK's come with is considered a 4-link system
Actually it's a 5 link because of the track bar.
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post #13 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

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Originally Posted by Tat2dfreak View Post
Actually it's a 5 link because of the track bar.
Nope...running a trackbar with one upper arm and two lowers is called a 3-link not 4. Your trackbar/panhard bar/watts linkage isnt considered a control arm.

Why is my thread turning into an argument of what a 4-link is? Lol...

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Last edited by chknkatsu; 03-24-2013 at 06:58 PM.
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post #14 of 25 Old 03-24-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
Why is my thread turning into an argument of what a 4-link is? Lol...
That is some funny shit there bud.... I feel for ya.
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post #15 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

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Originally Posted by abendx View Post
That is some funny shit there bud.... I feel for ya.
The jk-forum disease has been spread! Run for your lives!!!!!!!

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post #16 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 07:58 AM
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How much up travel would you like to have?

That defines the 'minimum' number you're searching for.
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post #17 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 08:18 AM
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I'll try to figure out how to fit a lower truss than what I've seen to have a little bit more room but can't give you a measure right now, but it's interresting to find out
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post #18 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
How much up travel would you like to have?

That defines the 'minimum' number you're searching for.
Havent thpught that in depth yet, but doing minimum lift i guess i would try to run more down travel and little up travel?

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post #19 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
Havent thpught that in depth yet, but doing minimum lift i guess i would try to run more down travel and little up travel?
Why do you feel that running very biased travel will help you?
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post #20 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 10:02 AM
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Re: Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

You can't (or should i say shouldn't) set up a suspension on a numbered lift height. You should set up your suspension and travel first. Set your ride height along with full compression and droop to what you are looking for, get your measurements and then figure out what size springs you need.

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post #21 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toothprick View Post
You can't (or should i say shouldn't) set up a suspension on a numbered lift height. You should set up your suspension and travel first. Set your ride height along with full compression and droop to what you are looking for, get your measurements and then figure out what size springs you need.

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I prefer determining absolute full bump, setting the bump stops to prevent whatever that limiter is, and building at that point. Let the springs determine ride height and total potential travel and set the shock mounts up to agree with that travel once you've made a decision on springs. This is assuming normal springs and shocks.
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post #22 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toothprick View Post
You can't (or should i say shouldn't) set up a suspension on a numbered lift height. You should set up your suspension and travel first. Set your ride height along with full compression and droop to what you are looking for, get your measurements and then figure out what size springs you need.
BINGO! If someone were to ask me what my lift height was I would shrug my shoulders and tell them belly pan height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I prefer determining absolute full bump, setting the bump stops to prevent whatever that limiter is, and building at that point. Let the springs determine ride height and total potential travel and set the shock mounts up to agree with that travel once you've made a decision on springs. This is assuming normal springs and shocks.
Agree that setting up at full bump is the best way to avoid issues later on... but hey, setting it up an ride height will give you some interesting engineering feats to perform later. Either way will work... with a sharp eye and experience, setting up at ride height should be no issue.
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post #23 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Why do you feel that running very biased travel will help you?
Well heres the thing, i dont have a 60 yet and probably wont for a while. Im just curious what it would take to run like a prorock60 if it came about.

At this point im basically just trying to attain whatever info i can get from you guys.

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Last edited by chknkatsu; 03-25-2013 at 03:12 PM.
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post #24 of 25 Old 03-25-2013, 09:50 PM
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Minimum lift to run 4-link 60

Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
i dont want all the stress on one mount, yes i know people run it and they've been "fine".

ask Planman about his setup actually, i think he runs like 4"
I currently run 4.5" springs with no body lift, Currie 60s, 99" wheelbase (3" stretch), about 4" rear and 4" front extended bumpstops, relocated lower shock mounts, 12" front and 10" rear Fox adjustable shocks with about 1/2 up and 1/2 down travel, Currie flipped drag link, 3 link rear and 4 link front (plus trackbars), and 40s on 3.5" backspaced wheels.

After EJS, I plan to install a set of 3.5" progressive rate Metalcloak springs.

If you high steer the front, you are looking at close to 4" front extended bumpstops. So, without notching the frame, I'd say 3" is probably the shortest spring you'd want to do on an aftermarket 60.

I have a set of Y-link radius arms Trailmaster sent me for the front. They are very similar to the TnT ones on Rex, but they use Rock Krawler joints instead of Summit Machine.

Seeing how Rex works, I've been tempted to run the Y-Link arms, but am torn between those and switching to a 3 link front. Rock Krawler has a strong double sheer 3rd link upper arm design available, or I could build it into a truss.

The 3 link binds less. The Y-link allows a very flat frame side mount that is difficult to do with a 3 or 4 link and keep close to parallel front upper and lower arms. The Y-links seem to handle fine with the flex joint at the frame and a heim at the short arm--plus my front upper axle side are Currie joints.


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post #25 of 25 Old 03-26-2013, 06:47 AM
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My answer:
More research on your part.
Call an axle maker: Danatrack, ruffstuff, prorock, teraflex, or currie
These companies can answer all your questions.

78-79 hp 60, 5.38, spool, Reids, high steer
14 bolt, 5.38, Grizzly
37KM2s H2s "street" / 42 Iroks TR beadlocks "trail"
Redneck Ram
Ruff stuff steering
Hacked up Rubicon Express longarms
Welded on EVO corners
Hacked up JCR engine tranny skid
Trail Gear DIY sliders

BUILD THREAD

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