Ringer's build of JKarl - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Ringer's build of JKarl

I'm fairly new to the forum and don't have a build page, I figured I would start one. Bought our 2008 X new, for my wife as her daily driver. It was as strip down as you can get, except air conditioning(seriously, manual locks, windows, vinyl seats, 225 tires on steel wheels, and 3.21 gears)

Starting Point:



Next step was new wheels, 265 tires, Ultra Nomad Wheels, and a front bumper.



Then I took my wife wheeling for the first time and she was hooked.

Next step was a RK 2.5" Max travel kit, rocker guards, evap relo.

Then I made custom front and rear bumpers, 35's, and NEW Rubi crate axles









The wife working on it... it is her Jeep



Electrical mods done. New painless fuse box and relays with custom made switch panel.



Custom half doors



Custom Hood





Current Build List: -2008 Wrangler 2 Door X

-6 Speed Manual Trans

-New Rubicon crate axles with cryo'd 5.13's and e-lockers

-Front is sleeved, gusseted, skid'd, BTF diy diff covers and Artec Truss, Reid's, RCV's

-Rear has BTF diy diff cover, Artec Truss, G2 axles

-Hutchinson Beadlocks

-37" Irok Bias

-Custom double triangulated rear four link and outboard coilovers and 4" stretch

-Custom long arm 3 link front with 2" stretch

-14" Fox coilovers

-FOA 2.0 air bumps

-BFH front bumper

-Homemade rear bumper with gate linked carrier

-River Raider Engine and Trans Skid

-Custom fuel cell

-Custom stainless exhaust

-ARB on board air

-Warn 9.5cti-S

-Synergy Tie rod, Drag link

-Adams driveshafts

-Custom hood with funtional welded in louvers

-Custom homemade interior switch panel

-Homemade fire extinguisher mount

-O-Track tie down system installed in back

-Heated Seats

-Custom homemade half doors with Rugged Ridge uppers

-Mastercraft Baja RS seats

-Hydro-Assist with PSC ram, KRC adjustable pump, large reservoir and cooler

-Custom tube fenders and custom rear corner

-Custom cowel snorkel

-Rubi T-case with 2/low kit

-Custom full cage

-custom JMG screen tops

Last edited by Ringer; 07-14-2014 at 09:34 PM.
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post #2 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Some quick wheeling pics:





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post #3 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Now to the fun stuff...
Here are some teasers of the mods that are in the works.

2.5" Johnny Joints

2"x.25" Wall DOM tubing. Front upper is 1.5"X.25" for clearance with RK flex end in axle and custom end link

These links are freaking huge. Long arms are sexy.

Pictures don't do justice, but trying to show the size

Artec rear truss welded up

Close up
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post #4 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Picked the arms up from powdercoater.

Got the front axle out.


Pulled the steering out too to tap for hydro.

More to come....

Last edited by Ringer; 01-08-2013 at 09:20 AM.
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post #5 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Artec truss and track bar mount welded up.
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post #6 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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All cleaned up.


Point of no return... No more factory suspension brackets.


Rubi t case showed up on the brown truck.


I got the axle bolted in for an ititial mock up and tested flex to check clearances. The one issue I knew I would run into. I was running a RK 2.5" max travel kit with 1.5" bump stops and 35's. I did not rub. With the 3 link long arm, I plan on running the same springs. However, with a draglink flip, you need to run 3" bumpstops. It seems stupid to me to restrict 1.5" of up travel just to get the draglink to clear the frame. So, I started measuring to notch the frame rail on the passenger side for the needed clearance. My plan is to eventually run 37's with flat fenders and keep the 1.5" bump stops. More to come once I cut the frame up...

Here is the axle mocked up.

Heating up and building a filler plate that will go in the frame notch.



Also, in swapping the transfer case, the top two nuts are a pain in the ass to get to. If you had the trans and transfer out they would be easy. However, if you are doing it with the trans in, I would recommend building a tool like this to allow you to reach from behind and over the top of the T case. It took about 15 minutes to make, but saved at least an hour of time and a whole lot of frustration.

Last edited by Ringer; 01-08-2013 at 09:20 AM.
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post #7 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Frame is notched and flipped drag link clears with 1.5" bumpstops.
Outline of where to cut

Filler plate

Frame cut out

Filler plate welded in


Draglink at full stuff and full turn to passenger side. It measures just shy of 1/2" of clearance.



I'm happy with how it turned out. You have to remove the factory power steering return line(which I was removing anyway for hydro assist upgrade), and reroute an electrical cable(two plugs and a handful of Christmas tree fasteners to remove). I'm happy with how it came out.
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post #8 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Got the KRC steering pump mounted. It was a pain. The bolt pattern matched up, but housing was too long. I had to disassemble it at put flat tapered head bolts in to clear. Also got the new reservoir mounted. I welded up brackets for the ram, but haven't mounted them yet. Also installed front driveshaft.



Steering ram mounted, cooler mounted, and front end is all back together. Started working on rear end.





Pulled the fuel tank, cut out the rest of the exhaust, and started building the upper frame side mount for the upper rear link. In order to keep up travel as much as possible, I cut and notched the body crossmember to allow for more clearance. I built a filler panel that will be welded in. It is in primer now. Here are some pics.
Front arms

Fuel tank out

Body notched for upper link mount.
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post #9 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:49 AM
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Damn... Nice work.
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post #10 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Fabricated a rear upper link mount, welded filler plate in body crossmember, and welded lower control arm frame side mounts on.
Rear upper link mount. All 1/4" plate.

Body crossmember filler plate


Got all the factory rear suspension brackets cut off.

Here is a pic of the rear axle all ready to go.


Track Bar bracket


Rear bump stops. Daystar competition style.

I also got the driver PSC corner installed. Went in perfectly in under an hour. Pays to have the right tool to make rivnuts easy.




That brings it up to current state. I am waiting on a rear upper shock mount to arrive and put the axle under it to test flex and measure for shocks.
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post #11 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 AM
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Looks good, man!

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post #12 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 09:26 AM
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Would you toss up some pics of how you are going to modify the exhaust, or if you modify the exhaust?
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post #13 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have any pics yet, but cut the exhaust right behind the cats. I will move the crossover pipe to behind the crossmember with a mid mounted muffler and a post rear axle dump. I will post pics once it gets to that point.
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post #14 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 10:34 AM
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Damn impressive work. I love seeing people build there own parts. Very inspirational, wish I had those fab skills.
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post #15 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 01:12 PM
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Wow, great build. All of your homebrew parts turned out great.

Anymore information on your custom half doors?
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post #16 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 01:32 PM
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awesome build and I second the notion on more info on the half doors, they turned out great. Might be my only option to have a set on my 2 door.


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post #17 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiltz View Post
Wow, great build. All of your homebrew parts turned out great.

Anymore information on your custom half doors?
I just created a build thread on the doors.
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...=1#post1399272
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post #18 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Got the Synergy coil over shock mount in(I'm still running coils and regular shocks for now). Rear axle is in and preliminary measurements show the wheelbase right about 100"! I will be able to fit 12" travel shocks with 1.5" bumpstops, and have no problem clearing 37's with surprisingly minimal trimming. Here are a couple shitty phone pics.

Full stuff


I am pumped. Really happy with how it's coming together.
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post #19 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 10:33 PM
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This is awesome!
Build looks killer, and pics and write up are top notch as well.
Don't get offended if I plagiarize your front frame notching technique heavily - looks like you nailed it!

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post #20 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 10:57 PM
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Sweet pics, and a great buildup of the rig!

Greg
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post #21 of 207 Old 01-08-2013, 11:12 PM
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Already more response!!
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post #22 of 207 Old 01-09-2013, 05:08 AM
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Dameeeeeeee thats some good skills going on her.
Whats the story with krc ps pump. Are they any good why not PSC or other PS pump.?
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post #23 of 207 Old 01-09-2013, 05:34 AM
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Build is coming along quite well, killer fab skills!

2010 Mango 2dr 6spd Rubicon
PSC BFH front and rear, Warn 9.5cti with viking synth line, Rigid duallys, RROR full skid,
RK 2.5 max travel pro with RRDs, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Tera 44 front, Tera 60 rear with 4.88s
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post #24 of 207 Old 01-09-2013, 06:09 AM
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Nice work Ringer


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post #25 of 207 Old 01-09-2013, 06:17 AM
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Damm fine work.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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