We know alot of people have questions when it comes to building their JK, their setups etc. We are opening an official tech thread for everyone. Even if it is not our products, we are here to help!
Feel free to post up your questions! We will try to check this thread once a day. We are extremely busy!
Please keep the posting to technical setup questions and things of that nature! We want this thread to be useful to everyone!
Everything hard parts wise will adjust out with no issues. You can swap coils, shocks and center pins for the disconnects to simply satisfy your basic needs which will put you at our 3.5" flex system. Then look into bump stops for your selected tire size and fender combo!
what is the max recommended travel if coilovers are used in your 5.5" X factor long arm system? This is taking into consideration custom mounts and not the limitations of factory "in the way" stuff.
Additionally if you have already "played around" with your systems what have you found works well for up and downtravel?
Just a thought, if you already have the links in place, axles located, ride height determined, ect., and you have also determined the shock mounting locations, why not just go ahead and measure? Set the frame on jack stands at ride height, remove shocks and springs, and fully cycle the suspension both at ride travel and flex travel. It sounds like all of your constraints other than shock travel have been established. Still a bit of work to do in determining how your spring rates will dictate your desired ride height, but you can certainly establish travel at this point.
The down travel at 5.5" of lift is the limiting factor because the C.V. head at the t-case on the front driveshaft will not take the angle and will experience premature failure. We typically run 12" travel coil overs at that lift height with 4.5 to 5 " of up travel and the rest is droop. Playing within that travel range simply transitions the amount of compression/droop and lift height, but the net concern is still the same. We are messing with custom made 13" travel units now to try to test further!
Please note: this entire thread does not have to be about our products! We appreciate the questions, but we are here to help regarding any questions! We want to see a stronger JK community! If we cannot answer your questions, then we will certainly try to point you in the right direction!
what are the stability differences, both on and off road, between a traditional 4 link rear (non-triangulated) and your rear three link? I don't want to be any taller than 3.5-4.0" so conceptually were only talking about the shorter arms and not the long-arm counterparts.
The traditional rear arrangement is actually a 5 link (4 link with track bar). Our independent 3 link with rear track bar and bracket handles very well. The instant center relationship of the 3rd link is adjustable, but it is pretty neutral with just a bit of anti-squat dialed in. The rear track bar is raised 3" at the axle end improving the roll center for improved stability. That being said, it does loose the natural binding found in the OEM arrangement, thus it moves more free! When combined with soft shocks, it can be noticeable, thus we recommend the Currie Rear Anti-Rock Sway Bar with the 1" bar....
One about using your joints and upper arms with a ProRock 60 front end....
I've attached a pic showing your tombstone and joint against the bush that is fitted to the bridge over the Pro Rock's diff center. There is a substantial difference in width.
Do you have a suggestion on how to marry the two together, or do I need to fabricate something to hold your joint?
We do offer a "Tombstone" that can be cut down and welded to the Dynatrac front cradle to use our Build a Ball Joint! Just make sure your front instant centers are close to the OEM relationship or the suspension will not perform like we intend it to!
I have the RK 2.5 max set up on a 2012 JKU with Rancho 9000 shocks, what should I do next? Also I would like to know if there is a way to get more articulation with out lifting it more?
Typical for 2 doors to see 3.5" or more lift with RK coils. I'm at 4" with no weight
My front shaft did not last long. Rear soon. I have RK front and rear uppers not yet installed. Not doing myself any good lol
I recently purchased your 2 1/2 inch Stock Mod lift for my 2010 4 door Unlim. Rubicon. First, can you give me a length to set the sway bar discos to? I will be using the auto disconnect feature.
Second, are longer brake lines needed or can I use drop brackets?
Looking forward to getting this installed.
A length to set the links at does not exist per say, every vehicle is going to sit slightly different. You want to set the sway bar its self back to the angle it was when factory so you will need to adjust the links accordingly. You want to do this on flat/level ground. As et of correctly adjusted links will slide onto the axle end hardware easily and without a fight. Remember the electric disco feature will still work fine BUT if you plan on really flexing your rigs out we recommend to manually disconnect the links because you can bend the center pins on the links.
The stock mod still uses the factory control arms so the kit is still limited by the bind of them. The extended brake lines are not needed but are not a bad thing to upgrade if you are looking to further your jeeps mods.
random tech question. Does the 3.8 engine require much back pressure? I recently ditched the stock muffler, and dropped a 12" cherry bomb in right after the cat to cut out some of the drone. Love how it sounds, but the mpg seems to have taken a hit. might I be damaging the engine, or is it more likely just shitty winter fuel>
We never offered a control arm that had a bushing at both ends, especially a bushing at the axle end due to the fact that you need more misalignment out of the axle end of the arm. This is where one of our Krawler Joints at the axle end comes into play...
Thought Id make a suggestion. I got your aluminum tie rod. I went to install the TRE's and one of them was very slightly bent but I couldnt tell. I even ran the jam nut all the way on as I wanted to make sure it was good. It threaded in about half way and then had resistance so I stopped. Well the little bit of resistance was enough to gall the threads and it destroyed the threads on that side of the tie rod when I threaded it out.
I dont blame you guys I blame the TRE manufacturer (Mopar) and myself for not seeing it but it would be nice to see a warning in your guys' instructions that a very slightly bent TRE will absolutley FUBAR your $280.00 tie rod.
I am going to stretch my JK. Do you sell your upper coil buckets separately (I want to reuse my current coils)? Do you have any photos of how they sit on the frame?
Give us a shout at the shop, 518-270-9822. Talk to one of our techs about what you looking to do and they can get you pricing on something like that. They can also grab your email address and shoot you over a copy of the directions which may help you get a better idea of where they go on the frame.
i started with a 3.5 flex system for my '11 JKUR. i just ordered the parts to upgrade to the x-factor plus. im just wanting to make sure i got every thing before i take stuff apart. here are the upgrade parts i ordered.
weld on rear axle cradle, rear upper arm, and 3rd link.
rear track bar
front upper control arms
and rear coil correction wedges
is that all that is needed to upgrade?
also after looking over the install instructions do you know if the poison spyder BFH rear bumper will work with your 3-link rear set up? thanks
There are a few other componants in that kit that you didnt factor in. The x-factor plus kit pushes the rear axle back 1", you will want to replace your current rear lower control arms with our RK02022's. The new rear lowers will allow you to set your pinion angle correctly. Also the rear double adjustable track bar comes into play with the 1" in added wheelbase, it will allow you to roll the track bar back away from the coil.
I am running your 3.5" lift and thinking about going to your 3 link system. I already have a rear truss made by Artec. Will your 3 link work with that truss or does it have to be the RK truss?
We have not tried to run it with their rear truss, you would have to take some measurements. You can also post up some pics of how it is layed out and we can point you in the right direction to go.
I am proud to say I am about to purchase your 3.5" Max Travel System for my 2011 JK Sport. My plan is to go with 37x12.5x17 Good Year MT/R Kevlar tires with your lift system. My wheels are 17"s with 4.5" backspacing. Fenders are the Genright (like stock) fenders. I have Blistein 5100 shocks sitting on my floor waiting to go in as well. What would you recommend to me as far as my bump stops go? On your site, under the 3.5" MTS link, it says "**Choose your bump stop lengths after you choose your wheel/tire and fender combination". Thank you.
I am proud to say I am about to purchase your 3.5" Max Travel System for my 2011 JK Sport. My plan is to go with 37x12.5x17 Good Year MT/R Kevlar tires with your lift system. My wheels are 17"s with 4.5" backspacing. Fenders are the Genright (like stock) fenders. I have Blistein 5100 shocks sitting on my floor waiting to go in as well. What would you recommend to me as far as my bump stops go? On your site, under the 3.5" MTS link, it says "**Choose your bump stop lengths after you choose your wheel/tire and fender combination". Thank you.
Sounds like a cool rig! As far as bump stops go you will need a minimum of a 3" in the front due to the drag link flip, and we would recommend 3" bumps in the rear as well.
If you have a complaint and choose not to send a PM to RK ( although that's the way that kind of thing SHOULD be handled) then at the very least, keep your replies civil and respectful.
Keep the foul language to a minimum... ESPECIALLY when addressing RK. They did not have to start this thread. The JKO community is very fortunate to have them on board as well as taking the time to address questions by initiating this thread.
THIS IS TECH. Please maintain some level of maturity when offering complaints, concerns, or criticism to the vendor or to other members.
I already have your 2.5 max travel kit on my 2 door, and just recently added your front and rear upper control arms, track bars, tie rod and drag link too.
I am thinking about installing your 3" stretch. My questions are:
I have a rear Currie Anti-rock already installed. Are any modifications required to it (e.g. shorten it by 3 inches / change the torsion bar etc).
I have a Teraflex driveshaft - does it need to be extended?
Currie actually sells a shorter arm for the sides of the anti-rock, you will need it to have the shorter arm when stretching it. The driveshaft as well will need to lengthened.
I have decided to pull the trigger as well on a 3.5 max travel lift for a 2012 jku Sahara. Plan is to run this lift with PSC flats and fox shocks on 37x13.5xr17s open country mts. Wondering what fox remote res shocks do you recommend as I am having quite a hard time deciding on shocks for my rig with out exceeding 1000 cnd dollars
All you have to do is match the fox shock lengths to our recommended shock lengths. Our shock lengths are all located in the description of each of our kits on our website.
RK
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