Drive Shafts- Who is the BEST??????? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-20-2009, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Drive Shafts- Who is the BEST???????

Who has the best drive shafts? JE Reel or Woods? Or?

I went to a local place here in town and wanted them to custom make me one but refused. There loss.
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-20-2009, 05:41 PM
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Wonder why a custom drive shaft company would refuse to make a custome drive shaft??? Sounds like it is best you avoided them!!

I recently installed aTom Wood's shaft

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6940

I ran woods on my XJ and had no issues. PhilD @ Trailduty.com has some good deals on them right now for JKO members. THere is a post on here somewhere that he made. Just search "Wood's" under the username PhilD

There is a million people running the JE Reel with no issues. AlecW has already broken three JE reels though. NOt sure if it is the shafts or what but I have had good luck with Woods
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-20-2009, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
Wonder why a custom drive shaft company would refuse to make a custome drive shaft??? Sounds like it is best you avoided them!!

I recently installed aTom Wood's shaft

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6940

I ran woods on my XJ and had no issues. PhilD @ Trailduty.com has some good deals on them right now for JKO members. THere is a post on here somewhere that he made. Just search "Wood's" under the username PhilD

There is a million people running the JE Reel with no issues. AlecW has already broken three JE reels though. NOt sure if it is the shafts or what but I have had good luck with Woods

Just curious, were the JE Reel shafts replaced under warranty?
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-20-2009, 05:46 PM
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YOu would have to ask Alec.

I know at least one of those breaks was not the fault of the DS. I also know the last one he said he was just ready to try a different brand.

I have heard that JE Reel was good with the warranties though
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-20-2009, 05:55 PM
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JE Reel make good shafts and will honor warranty issues, unless it was caused by bad pinion angle or some other bad install issue.

I ran JE 1310OE shafts for 50k miles with no issues, although they were ready for a rebuild. I switched to Tom Wood's shafts recently as I wanted to use their yokes, but I could have just as easily had gone with JE 1310CV shafts.

My initial feeling was to go with the JE 1310OE shafts as it meant you could carry the stock ones as spares and easily swap them over if the need arose, and this is still not a bad idea. However, in retrospect going with a 1310CV shaft (especially at the front) may have been a better choice, as you get slightly better angles and don't have to deal with the potential out of round issues with the factory flanges.

Both Tom Wood's and JE shafts are well made, Tom Wood's use better UJ's in my view, and are priced a little better.
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-21-2009, 07:10 PM
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Woods.
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-21-2009, 07:42 PM
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I run the thicker je reels. So far so good.


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post #8 of 16 Old 03-21-2009, 08:54 PM
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JE Reel in the front, had one in the rear but had to replace it after 9 months.. no warranty and the CV went bad. Probably my fault since being a noob myself I didn't know you had to grease them every oil change.

I would go with woods after researching this recently. Had to go with a custom one since I needed it immediatly. (local drive line company)

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post #9 of 16 Old 03-22-2009, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
JE Reel make good shafts and will honor warranty issues, unless it was caused by bad pinion angle or some other bad install issue.

I ran JE 1310OE shafts for 50k miles with no issues, although they were ready for a rebuild. I switched to Tom Wood's shafts recently as I wanted to use their yokes, but I could have just as easily had gone with JE 1310CV shafts.

My initial feeling was to go with the JE 1310OE shafts as it meant you could carry the stock ones as spares and easily swap them over if the need arose, and this is still not a bad idea. However, in retrospect going with a 1310CV shaft (especially at the front) may have been a better choice, as you get slightly better angles and don't have to deal with the potential out of round issues with the factory flanges.

Both Tom Wood's and JE shafts are well made, Tom Wood's use better UJ's in my view, and are priced a little better.
So you got 50k miles on your lifted Unlimited on 37s with no breakage on the JE Reel 1310 OE? Did you wheel it hard?

If so, why would anyone go with 1350's unless they are running a hemi on an Unlimited with 37s-40s in boulder rock gardens?

The JE Reel 1310 OE shafts are $379 before discounts. Wouldn't they be enough for most JK owners?

If I run a 3"-4" lift on a 2 dr Rubi with 37s, do less than 8k miles a year, & wheel mostly in the rocks (Moab or Black Hills of South Dakota), wouldn't I be just fine with 1310s?

I assume the TW 1310s at $450 each before discounts will allow steeper flexed angles than the OE JE Reels.


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post #10 of 16 Old 03-22-2009, 07:11 PM
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I've had one of the first JE REEL 1350 shafts on my JK, never an issue
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post #11 of 16 Old 03-22-2009, 07:15 PM
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tom woods' shafts are awesome. high angle driveline also make awesome shafts.

the new yokes that you can get with the woods' shafts are awesome, and like phil mentioned, woods' shafts probably use the best u-joints anywhere.

je reel are good, but they aren't custom fit to your specific length.

if you are trying to decide between 1350's and 1310's, just go to the tom wood website and see what they have to say about the 1310's.
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-23-2009, 05:37 AM
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JE Reel

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post #13 of 16 Old 03-23-2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
So you got 50k miles on your lifted Unlimited on 37s with no breakage on the JE Reel 1310 OE? Did you wheel it hard?
Hard enough. I think that the 1310 is plenty strong enough and at the end of the day I'd rather swap out a broken UJ in the field than an axle shaft or worse.
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-24-2009, 06:39 AM
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When I was ordering my drive shafts from Tom Woods, he pretty strongly discouraged me from going 1350, especially in the front. He said most of the competition crawlers run 1310s, and if I ever break one, he'd fix it. I had the money ready to spend on 1350s and he sold me on the 1310s instead.

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2007 JK Rubicon Unlimited Rescue Green 6 Speed
Mods Shrockworks Rails & Bumpers, Currie Lift, Tom Woods 1350 driveshafts, 35" Toyo M/Ts on ProComp 7028s
In Progress
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-24-2009, 07:11 AM
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If you replace the flange on the dif. like Tom woods do you just tighten it to proper ft/lbs? I thought with a crush sleeve you had to set the preload. Is there another nut to hold the flange on besides the pinion nut?

07 Rubi Unlimited , 4.5 clayton longarm, 37" Maxxis treps, AtoZ fabrication, Genright, and Polyperformance
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post #16 of 16 Old 03-24-2009, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve&2jc's View Post
I thought with a crush sleeve you had to set the preload.
Yes, the correct way is to measure torque to rotate, then set the torque to whatever it takes to create the same torque to rotate. That is what WTF did in his write up.

Many people just tighten the pinion nut as tight as can, usually somewhere around 170 ft/lbs, and hope for the best.
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