Aftermarket JK steering - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Aftermarket JK steering

I was lucky enough to test a new JK steering setup for ORO over the last 3 months. Living a few miles away from their shop came in handy!
The tire rod is made of solid 1.375" heat treated chromoly and is straight. No bends in it at all and it raises it about 1" over the stock set up.
The steering handles awesome on the road and the added beef will come in handy in the rocks!

Heres a few pics......







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post #2 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 07:36 AM
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I like it but $425... that's $100 more than the poly

I also like the idea of it being straight but i dunno if that's worth $100 to me

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post #3 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 08:10 AM
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Until we can upgrade the sector shaft / steering box, we're only using band aids on the problem, IMO
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post #4 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 08:11 AM
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Why not flip the tie rod over the knuckle? Seems to me if you go to all the trouble to design new mounts, it would make sense to design them to allow the tie rod to be flipped over and gain a whole lot more clearance.
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post #5 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedome View Post
Until we can upgrade the sector shaft / steering box, we're only using band aids on the problem, IMO
Hydro assist
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post #6 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
Why not flip the tie rod over the knuckle? Seems to me if you go to all the trouble to design new mounts, it would make sense to design them to allow the tie rod to be flipped over and gain a whole lot more clearance.

My guess is the part of the knuckle where the drag link mounts would be in the way of a straight tie rod?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunker View Post
I like it but $425... that's $100 more than the poly

I also like the idea of it being straight but i dunno if that's worth $100 to me
I suppose the two laser cut brackets, TIG welding them, and coating them add to the cost.
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post #7 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt View Post
My guess is the part of the knuckle where the drag link mounts would be in the way of a straight tie rod?
That's my point, if you going to design new tie rod mounts, why not design them in such a way that you can flip the tie rod?
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post #8 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedome View Post
Until we can upgrade the sector shaft / steering box, we're only using band aids on the problem, IMO
my sentiments exactly, the intermediate steering shaft is a steaming pile of junk, imho...I had partially put it back together on the trail last week, although it did completely stop all the clunking and steering noises...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
Hydro assist
that sounds expensive to me...

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post #9 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
Why not flip the tie rod over the knuckle? Seems to me if you go to all the trouble to design new mounts, it would make sense to design them to allow the tie rod to be flipped over and gain a whole lot more clearance.
x2, only 1"???
I would definitely buy it if it were over knuckle and gained 2-3". Otherwise, I would just buy a Poly tie rod. Matt, tell ORO to rethink this... or maybe Poly could design one...
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post #10 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 10:54 AM
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If mounted on top, I wonder if one could use the teraflex offset tie rod ends to clear the drag link knuckle? It's a one ton and comes in RH and LH.

http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...ock-taper.html

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post #11 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
That's my point, if you going to design new tie rod mounts, why not design them in such a way that you can flip the tie rod?
If the tie rod was flipped it wouldn't fit with the stock wheels either.
Its My understanding that the kit was designed to work with as many different scenarios out there as it could.

By looking at My Jeep it looks like the tie rod would clear 18" wheels if it was flipped to the top of the mounts.
But even if You relocated the drag link to the top of the knuckle and moved the track bar up to keep the geometry correct, The tie rod would still hit the knuckle where the drag link mounts at full turn.


I think this is a case of trying to fit 10# of stuff in a 5# bag.
I like having all the extra clearance I can get too!
But its still way stronger than the stock tie rod and being that its straight makes it a lot easier to install/adjust.
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post #12 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VSDPV View Post
If mounted on top, I wonder if one could use the teraflex offset tie rod ends to clear the drag link knuckle? It's a one ton and comes in RH and LH.

http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...ock-taper.html


Thats cool! I never saw that before!
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post #13 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedome View Post
Until we can upgrade the sector shaft / steering box, we're only using band aids on the problem, IMO
Have you seen this? This might help a bit: Sector Shaft Brace...

http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...?prod=EVO-1015





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post #14 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 11:39 AM
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By way of comparison, here's a similar hi steer bracket (from Rocky Road outfitters) for a TJ. Look at all the clearance they were able to get. Why can't a proper hi-steer be done on a JK?



They gained like 6" clearance for the tie rod:



Something like this would be worth paying for... if fact you wouldn´t have to invest in such a heavy duty tie rod when its up and out of the way...

Last edited by VSDPV; 03-19-2009 at 11:45 AM.
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post #15 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 11:45 AM
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Really like the idea, but I agree that going through that and not flipping it also seems kinda wasteful.

Jason
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post #16 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt View Post
But even if You relocated the drag link to the top of the knuckle and moved the track bar up to keep the geometry correct,
No need to do anything with the drag link unless you want to, moving the tie rod doesn't necessitate moving the drag link.

Quote:
The tie rod would still hit the knuckle where the drag link mounts at full turn.
Which was my original point, why not make it so it would work.

For people with aftermarket rims, like myself there may be plenty of clearance so it would work with the tie rod flipped. I understand they are trying to allow it to work with as many setups as possible, but just seems that an opportunity is being lost and that making it so you could mount the tie rod either way would be a nice option.


Quote:
But its still way stronger than the stock tie rod and being that its straight makes it a lot easier to install/adjust.
Stronger than stock is good, but having curved ends like the Poly one doesn't make it any harder to install or adjust.
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post #17 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VSDPV View Post
If mounted on top, I wonder if one could use the teraflex offset tie rod ends to clear the drag link knuckle? It's a one ton and comes in RH and LH.

http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...ock-taper.html

The only problem with doing that, is that the offset tie rod ends are only available in a TJ-sized tapered stud, which is smaller than JK tie rod end stud size.


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post #18 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
The only problem with doing that, is that the offset tie rod ends are only available in a TJ-sized tapered stud, which is smaller than JK tie rod end stud size.
well, get on the stick an make some for the JK!!!!
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post #19 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
The only problem with doing that, is that the offset tie rod ends are only available in a TJ-sized tapered stud, which is smaller than JK tie rod end stud size.
On your web page it says: "available in either a stock Jeep® taper or a large one-ton taper (standard Dana 60)". I was thinking of adapting the D60 tie rod end to the ORO brackets. Would have to retaper the bracket anyway to mount it on the top. This an only an idea I'm trying to think through.

Is the D60 rod end not available anymore?

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Last edited by VSDPV; 03-19-2009 at 04:43 PM.
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post #20 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Im not sure what the aplication or part # is , but the ORO kit uses 1 ton TRE's.
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post #21 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 05:35 PM
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That´s good. At least we know the ORO bracket will handle a 1 ton TRE. The trick here is to convince ORO to put the proper taper in from the top in order to use the teraflex TRE on top (instead of the bottom). Or at least offer this as an option. Any chance of that? Matt, as a tester, you have any pull with them?

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post #22 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have any pull with them.
I just happened to be in the right place at the right time and got the chance to test it out.

The Guys at ORO are really helpful!
Give them a call and ask for Steve. I bet they would be happy to taper the holes on the other side of the mount for You.
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post #23 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 07:20 PM
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what about a steering stablizer? will it still reach if its moved out that far?

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post #24 of 35 Old 03-19-2009, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I have a relocation bracket that moves it so it mounts off the frame and drag link. I installed it the same time I installed the steering.
I'll snap a pic and post it up tomorow.
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post #25 of 35 Old 03-20-2009, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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