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post #1 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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My hand throttle install

I was given a Teraflex hand throttle from BThomas on the board and set out to get it to work with the electronic throttle body. So far it "works" but is very finicky on getting it to hold a decent rpm. Despite a very precise way of adjusting the cable, it wants to either be at idle, or 3000rpm. I took my Superchips and changed the throttle response from "Superchips" to "Moderate", which seemed to help a little. It'll hold 2500rpm for now, which is still a bit high for me. I may try the "stock" throttle response for the hell of it.

Anyway, here is what I am using..












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post #2 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:00 PM
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Nice fabrication...What is the benefit of a hand throttle? Is it just to keep the RPMS up while in the rocks/off camber to prevent from stalling?

I didnt think you could do that on a JK with the e-throttle.....

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Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
What is the benefit of a hand throttle? Is it just to keep the RPMS up while in the rocks/off camber to prevent from stalling?
Yes and a quick idle up for winching. I've seen another throttle done like a bicycle cable, but I'd like to get it to hold 1500-1600rpm steady. So I need to work on it a bit to try and get that done. Thinking about that, I haven't tried it in 4-low, it's a different throttle map!

It cannot be done on an electronic throttle body like the traditional piggy-back to the throttle cable setups. Which is why I am at the pedal sensor.

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post #4 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:18 PM
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Pretty nice install, love the pulley system!

You do realize that you can do the same thing with the ProCal? You do the same using the intermittent wiper stalk control and it only cancels after you turn the ignition off and back on again.

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post #5 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty nice install, love the pulley system!

You do realize that you can do the same thing with the ProCal? You do the same using the intermittent wiper stalk control and it only cancels after you turn the ignition off and back on again.
Yes I do realize that, I do have a Superchips...which does it too. However I don't feel the need for getting a pro cal just for that. Also, my problem with the Superchips is it takes a few minutes of dedicated attention to get a idle bump. It's annoying and slow to deal with. This is more for bumping it up for certain obstacles, having to shut and start the Jeep off every time doesn't seem too cool either?

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Last edited by Goodysgotacuda; 02-26-2012 at 04:25 PM.
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post #6 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Yes I do realize that, but I have a Superchips...which does it too. However I don't feel the need for getting a pro cal just for that. Also, my problem with the Superchips is it takes a few minutes of dedicated attention to get a idle bump. It's annoying and slow to deal with. This is more for bumping it up for certain obstacles, having to shut and start the Jeep off every time doesn't seem too cool either?
Totally get that, thought this was primarily for winching. With crawling, you've done what I would do. This mod is awesome! Have you thought about maybe a smaller pulley on your cable system? That might help with incremental movements. The ones you used might be too big?

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post #7 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Totally get that, thought this was primarily for winching. With crawling, you've done what I would do. This mod is awesome! Have you thought about maybe a smaller pulley on your cable system? That might help with incremental movements. The ones you used might be too big?
Basically I am able to adjust the tension on the cable with the special cable bolt and jam nut in picture three (under the bracket). So it is pretty damn precise as far as increments go. I'm curious how it acts in 4low, it's a different throttle map and I haven't tried it yet.

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post #8 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:38 PM
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The DBW throttle is wonky anyways. I hate trying to feather the throttle for long periods in this JK and of course the 2011 is the model that Tuning forgot so I won't know what different throttle maps will feel like for a long time to come it seems.

The only reason I mention pulley size is because the bigger the pulley, the more take up. Could be affecting how much pedal movement you get based on hand lever position. Just trying to reason through why you can get it to rest where you want it. Does that lever have any kind of adjustable position stop?

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post #9 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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The DBW throttle is wonky anyways. I hate trying to feather the throttle for long periods in this JK and of course the 2011 is the model that Tuning forgot so I won't know what different throttle maps will feel like for a long time to come it seems.

The only reason I mention pulley size is because the bigger the pulley, the more take up. Could be affecting how much pedal movement you get based on hand lever position. Just trying to reason through why you can get it to rest where you want it. Does that lever have any kind of adjustable position stop?
The handle has several "click" positions. For instance I would set it to click #3 and micro adjust the cable tension bolt just until I'd get an rpm rise. Then it would want to run 2500-3k. Pretty touchy.

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post #10 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:45 PM
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try to use the gas pedal to bump RPMs a bit - it wont do it smoothly either
either idle or way to high, I think its the computer doing it for you.


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post #11 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:45 PM
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Sounds like a pain in the arsky. Should be awesome when you finally dial it in though.

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try to use the gas pedal to bump RPMs a bit - it wont do it smoothly either
either idle or way to high, I think its the computer doing it for you.
Oh I know it's the PCM being the problem. I am just trying to make it do what I want it to. Changing the throttle maps with the tuner helped a bunch, there is a stock setting I can do as well. I am getting the 2500rpm from bumping it to click #4 then back down to #3 as soon as it revs. I think with enough tinkering I may be able to get it. If not 2500 is fine for winching and the occasional super steep obstacle.

I haven't seen it done successfully on a JK yet, without a module of any sort. So we'll see, the kit was donated, so I owe the JK community to at least give it a whole hearted attempt.

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post #13 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:50 PM
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Gotta love the computer's "help"

be nice if there was a nice cheap setup that worked like a pro-cal but you could leave plugged in and active all the time with a simple rheostat to adjust idle.


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Gotta love the computer's "help"

be nice if there was a nice cheap setup that worked like a pro-cal but you could leave plugged in and active all the time with a simple rheostat to adjust idle.
Here



...but not "cheap" at $285

http://www.4x4rockshop.com/Scripts/p...dproduct=13640

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post #15 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:55 PM
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for $285, I'll plug my pro-cal in and roll the dimmer switch


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post #16 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 04:58 PM
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Not really quick enough.

You can set it and turn it on but it has a toggle switch to adjust that acts like the cruise control button. One bumps it a little hold and it drives toward the firewall.

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post #17 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 07:10 PM
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So, with the procal, all you have to do is set the rpms where you want them to before, say going out wheeling where you know you are going to have to go over steep, rocky inclines, where stall outs are likely? Or is it something you have to adjust just for a set number of minutes? How does it work exactly? Just curious if purchasing a procal is worth it based on that feature alone.

I need something like that, having 3.73 gears in the rocks sucks the big one.

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post #18 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 07:31 PM
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Pro cal only does the idle thing with it plugged into the port.
Set the e brake (1 click works long as it turns the light on) then plug it in and when you turn your light dimmer control it runs the idle up n down.

But has to be plugged in to obd port work.


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post #19 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 07:40 PM
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Pro cal only does the idle thing with it plugged into the port.
Set the e brake (1 click works long as it turns the light on) then plug it in and when you turn your light dimmer control it runs the idle up n down.

But has to be plugged in to obd port work.

Oh, thats pretty cool actually that its adjusted with the dimmer. So once you have it set, I assume you can release the e-brake and have it still operate the RPM level?

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post #20 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:11 PM
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I believe an Aeroforce gauge will control idle as well with the push of a few buttons. And its always plugged into the OBDII port (unless you unplug it). I think thats the route I'm going to go. I have a Kilby OBA so it would be nice to kick the idle up to 2k or so when I'm airing up a bunch of ppl at the end of the day, plus the other features on the Aeroforce are pretty awesome too.

Post #'s 6 & 12: https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21163

07 X 2dr- 6spd


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post #21 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I believe an Aeroforce gauge will control idle as well with the push of a few buttons. And its always plugged into the OBDII port (unless you unplug it). I think thats the route I'm going to go. I have a Kilby OBA so it would be nice to kick the idle up to 2k or so when I'm airing up a bunch of ppl at the end of the day, plus the other features on the Aeroforce are pretty awesome too.

Post #'s 6 & 12: https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21163
'

Cool, but that is still hardly half the reason why I want an actual hand throttle.

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post #22 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:29 PM
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Just reading over that thread, someone commented regarding a single chime (like the seat belt alarm, but only one), and it being related to your trans temp gauge.

I have, just recently noticed a single, random chime while driving. And it is ONLY a single chime, not a series. Its only occurred a few times but..... I certainly hope its not related to my transmission. Sorry to hijack

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post #23 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:29 PM
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Remove the bracket on the pedal, and install an additional pulley. It will cut the pedal movement in half, and reduce its sensitivity to changes in lever position.

Guide pins will keep the cable on the pulleys.


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post #24 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
'

Cool, but that is still hardly half the reason why I want an actual hand throttle.
I understand, I have a manual too and it would be nice to have a hand throttle to free up a foot on some of the more technical obstacles, not to mention being able to kick the throttle when winching, etc. I just think its a cool feature on the gauges that basically does what a tuner can do only quicker.

How did you route the cable? just under the center console and down and out near the gas pedal? how do you keep the cable on that pulley when you step on the gas pedal? I would think when you press the gas pedal it would put slack in the cable.

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post #25 of 55 Old 02-26-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I had this and sold it. it was not much different from what you were already dealing with it would be slow to respond and there was not very percise control. I worked for not having a 3rd leg. but i sold it when i installed my Ripp SC. the two parts did not get along.
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