Changing caster/pinion angle on front D44 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Changing caster/pinion angle on front D44

Ok I have an idea and want to run this past everyone. I have my axle out and stripped awaiting the delivery of the PP outer shell and bracket kit.

Going through all this work already I wondered if anyone has tried to add in the extra 5 degrees of caster like the PR44.

I'm thinking it can be done by sliding an inner sleeve in the tubes and cutting them and turning and welding them. Or possibly drilling out the plug welds in the diff housing and turning them there.

So if anyone has heard of this or tried it Id like to know how it worked or if I should just install the kit and live with the angle like most with a stock axle.

Also is it really worth the amount of work for the results it would provide.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
Ok I have an idea and want to run this past everyone. I have my axle out and stripped awaiting the delivery of the PP outer shell and bracket kit.

Going through all this work already I wondered if anyone has tried to add in the extra 5 degrees of caster like the PR44.

I'm thinking it can be done by sliding an inner sleeve in the tubes and cutting them and turning and welding them. Or possibly drilling out the plug welds in the diff housing and turning them there.

So if anyone has heard of this or tried it Id like to know how it worked or if I should just install the kit and live with the angle like most with a stock axle.

Also is it really worth the amount of work for the results it would provide.
Are you still running the stock drive shafts, that might be less of a pain in the ass to change
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 03:08 PM
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If I were going to do all that work I would buy a piece of 3" .250 wall DOM weld it to the stock tube then get the dynatrac c's then press and weld them onto my new 3" tubes.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeepasoris47 View Post
Are you still running the stock drive shafts, that might be less of a pain in the ass to change
Yes I still have stock driveshafts for now..

I have stock control arms but am going to RK adjustable upper and lower mid arms. I guess I must not be understanding the reason for the extra caster.

The caster is adjustable by the new control arms when I get them I'm assuming so is the purpose of the extra 5 degrees on the pro rock just for pinion angle then?
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spedly View Post
If I were going to do all that work I would buy a piece of 3" .250 wall DOM weld it to the stock tube then get the dynatrac c's then press and weld them onto my new 3" tubes.
Does dynatrac sell D44 C's? I couldn't find them on their website. I think that would be a good option also.
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 04:11 PM
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I had a driveline shop do mine.

If I understand what they did correctly, they were able to remove the outer C's from the axle assembly, rotate them to the correct castor and pinion angles and then weld it all back up again. At the same time that they did it they also sleeved it for me.

The cost for all this work was about $600. Money that I feel was well worth it. The ride is radically better. There is radically less driveline vibration. A total win in my book.

There are a couple drawbacks from this job that if I had thought it out better and if I didn't already have C Gussets and a Rock Krawler truss would have been less of an issue. These are a PITA but not so much as to outweigh the pros of the overall job. I gotta run now. Will write more later if people are interested.


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post #7 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ipe View Post
I had a driveline shop do mine.

If I understand what they did correctly, they were able to remove the outer C's from the axle assembly, rotate them to the correct castor and pinion angles and then weld it all back up again. At the same time that they did it they also sleeved it for me.

The cost for all this work was about $600. Money that I feel was well worth it. The ride is radically better. There is radically less driveline vibration. A total win in my book.

There are a couple drawbacks from this job that if I had thought it out better and if I didn't already have C Gussets and a Rock Krawler truss would have been less of an issue. These are a PITA but not so much as to outweigh the pros of the overall job. I gotta run now. Will write more later if people are interested.
Well I'm interested in what the drawbacks are.

I just ordered $650 worth of outer shell kit, JJ upper control arm mounts, and C-gussets. So paying $600 for that work you had done is well worth it.

Thinking about all this I am starting to wonder if I should have just inner sleeved and C gusseted the axle and spent the $500 I would have left over on something else...
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 05:01 PM
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Wasn't this one of the options available when sending your housing in to Poly for them to install their sleeve/gusset kit? You might try calling or sending a PM to see if they have any info on it.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
Ok I have an idea and want to run this past everyone. I have my axle out and stripped awaiting the delivery of the PP outer shell and bracket kit.

Going through all this work already I wondered if anyone has tried to add in the extra 5 degrees of caster like the PR44.

I'm thinking it can be done by sliding an inner sleeve in the tubes and cutting them and turning and welding them. Or possibly drilling out the plug welds in the diff housing and turning them there.

So if anyone has heard of this or tried it Id like to know how it worked or if I should just install the kit and live with the angle like most with a stock axle.

Also is it really worth the amount of work for the results it would provide.
Yes. You are exactly on target. Your last line is the reason most people do not so this. The cost to have someone do this work for them is not worth the benefit. If you are not getting vibrations then even doing it yourself may not be really worth it.

Your first Idea of using inner sleeves as reinforcements after repositioning the Cs is excellent. Also if you have the setup to drill out the welds, then rotate the diff housing or press out the tubes then press them back in will work. To press them out and back in will take a port-a-power and somewhat special tooling. All of it is entirely doable. Matter of fact I posted on a thread over on Pirate with a guy removing axles tubes in this manner last year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
Yes I still have stock driveshafts for now..

I have stock control arms but am going to RK adjustable upper and lower mid arms. I guess I must not be understanding the reason for the extra caster.

The caster is adjustable by the new control arms when I get them I'm assuming so is the purpose of the extra 5 degrees on the pro rock just for pinion angle then?
You understand perfectly. Actually doing what you are asking about will give you a straighter driveline and allow for factory spec steering.

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Originally Posted by virtual_mage View Post
.....a dark forum, were people would sometimes be rude but yet be helpful.
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Last edited by toymaster; 02-24-2012 at 05:51 PM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 06:16 PM
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if mine ever was going to be done I was going to do it exactly like that because of all the truss work and shit on mine it would just be easier to cut the tube. I would just have someone better than me to a nice good weaved weld.

if yours is bare, rotate the C's, not hard and little chance of screwing it up

Last edited by usmcdoc14; 02-24-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
Well I'm interested in what the drawbacks are.

I just ordered $650 worth of outer shell kit, JJ upper control arm mounts, and C-gussets. So paying $600 for that work you had done is well worth it.

Thinking about all this I am starting to wonder if I should have just inner sleeved and C gusseted the axle and spent the $500 I would have left over on something else...
I just read that you have the axle assembly stripped. Missed that before. In your case you won't get any of the drawbacks I had. Basically my drawbacks are that the brackets are fawked up in relation to the rotation of the axle assembly. The springs are bowed some... annoying, but not a major deal for right now, especially as I plan on swapping out to coilovers this spring.

You've got a clean slate to work with. This is awesome. Go forth and rotate... or go forth and have someone else rotate and weld for you. Either way the end result is awesome. No darty/crazy steering. Same for driveline vibes. Much, much less... basically none. Your stock shafts are still not going to last forever, especially the front, but it will still make things a LOT better.

Oh... I missed this... The $600 I paid was for labor only. I paid quadrastuff whatever for a set of Teraflex inner sleves, but their install was covered in that $600.


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post #12 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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OK, Thanks for the responses I guess now that I have some confirmation that it would be a good idea, it's time to cut that sucker apart and hope I can make it come out OK.

Ill take some pictures of how it goes and put them up here, the parts wont be here till Monday and of course that's the first day at my new job so who knows how long itll be till I get around to actually doing this.

Now does anyone have any idea what would be the best place to cut the axle?

At the C, the diff housing, the middle? It will be covered by the PP outer shell kit.

All this is good info I just hope it turns out like I see it in my head....
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-26-2012, 07:27 AM
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The time to do it is when installing sleeves. Takes somone with a lot of knowledge and the right tools, welding skills, etc. In the end the PR44 starts looking better & better!
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