I have been working at fitting my new aluminum rear bumper, and it is not fitting quite like I expected. My main problem, I think, is that the bumper hits the 4 bolts that hold the stock hitch to the frame.

I called GenRight today and they told me to flip the bolts. But, when I looked at it again, that is not possible. The nuts are welded to the front plate of the hitch.

Does anyone have any wisdom for fitting this bumper? As it is, the bolt holes in the bumper are very close to the stock holes in the frame for the driver side stock tow point, so I know it should fit back a little farther.

I will call them again tomorrow, but looking for someone that has installed this bumper with a stock hitch in place.

Here is the hitch bolts hitting the bumper -


And the fit of the bumper when it hits the bolts -





Thanks!

can you take a "zoomed out" picture of the entire hitch mounted with the bumper? And are those the original mounting bolts? I am thinking the bolts are too long for the hitch....either that or they are original and you can use a dremel and cut down the mounting bolt ends that stick out passed the nut so that they don't interfere with the bumper mount.

Yes, the hitch is mounted with the original bolts. I have not removed the hitch from the frame.

Here are a couple of pics of the hitch.

Just put some washers under the head of the hitch bolts. As long as you have full engagement in the threads of the nut, you will not affect their strength.

Unless it's more complicated than that...but doesn't look like it.

Great idea goody! Putting the washers under the head of the bolt will reduce the length of the threads sticking out.


Another idea is going to the hardware store and getting a set of bolts that aren't as long. Just a thought.

Grinder with a flapper wheel, done. Ya'll over complicate things lol

Just get a cutting wheel and cut the bolts off at the nut. Grind the tip and call it a day. I'd probably unscrew the nuts, place some red loctite on the nut and re-torque the nut just in case, but you should be fine. That hitch isn't moving.

Edit: ^^^ beat me to it.

I assume the guy doesn't have a grinder handy, or he would have done that already. Washers are very simple and cheap to anyone else that may have this issue and not own a grinder.

That's what I said in post 2! Get a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut it off! bolts are replaceable.

I really have fun with a good 40 grit flapper wheel.

Thanks for all of the feedback. I do not have a grinder, as I live in a motorhome, so my garage space is pretty limited

I guess I have been concerned with altering the attachment hardware on the hitch because I am concerned with what it might do to the towing capabilities. I don't use it for towing now - just for a bike rack. However, I do want to be able to use it for towing if I need to, and don't want to affect the integrity of the hitch by modifying it - by either stacking a bunch of washers or cutting off the ends.

But, sounds like I am the only once concerned with that, so it is probable my concerns are unfounded. I will grab a handful of washers today and go that route.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Looks like you have it figured out. Just to put your mind at ease, there's no modification being done to the hitch by adding washers or circumcising the tips. Remember that the force being applied to the hitch when towing is mostly a lateral force (pulling). The downward force is simply the weight of the tongue of the trailer, which shouldn't be too much. Besides, usually the only thing holding the trailer to the hitch is a single pin! I think you'll be fine adding a few washers to the 4 bolts holding the hitch to the frame. Good luck.

cutting them off or using washers won't compromise the strength or towing ability

Can you turn the bolt around so that the end of the bolt is on the other side or is the nut welded to the hitch and if it is just cut the nut off and flip it to the other side.

The bolt cannot be turned around, the nut is welded to the hitch. As noted in post #1

The original poster doesn't have a grinder, let alone a grinder and a welder. As per post #11

...but good thinking

You can PM me if you need more help as I have this bumper on my Jeep.

Thanks - I appreciate it. Do you have the stock hitch mounted on yours? Either way, should the bumper push all of the way up to the end of the frame? It looks like if I add washers to the hitch bolts, it should be pretty flush all the way across.

Just trying to drill holes in my frame one time and do it right

Thanks again for all of the feedback.

Have you gotten it lined out? My mother in law is going to be here in about 20 minutes or I'd ride down there and cut those bolts off for you.

Have you talked to Danny?

Marcus

I don't have it mounted currently as it sticks out way past the bumper, killing departure angle. It does fit though. I had to grind little spots here and there to get it to fit perfectly. I would probably install the bumper without the hitch, then trim the hitch to fit once the bumper is on.

I would say the bumper fits within 1/8" of the frame ends, if not perfectly flush. I drilled the bottom four holes first, then the side holes. There is a larger bolt on each side for the D-ring mounts, the hole in the bracket should line up with the hole in the frame. I also had to trim the brackets with the nuts welded to them for the bottom bolts so that the 2" square tube that slides into the frame could sit flat (the nuts were too tall for one side).

heh - I ran into him at Lowes the night before I did my first fit. I will hunt him down if I need tools Have fun with your MIL! If you need an out, I am throwing flesh on the smoker this weekend!


Awesome - thanks for the info. Apparently I have a new style - no square tubes for the tow points. They are solid cut steel. I am going to give the washer technique a try tomorrow and will post up if I have questions about the fit after that.

The bumper is painted and ready to be installed tomorrow if I can cut out of work during the day. I prepped it and used DupliColor bed liner and it looks good.

Here are a few pics of the install so far.

Used washers on the bolts to back them out so the bumper fit flush.


Once the hitch bolts were flush, the bumper fit real well.


Hitting it with self-etching primer.


Bed liner applied. The large metal chunks are the new style of tow points. Had to call GR, as the instructions had the old style shown. The humps are installed up in the frame.


My newest challenge - the LED backup lights are too deep to fit up against the rear cross member, so I will take a Dremel to them to cut them down.

Here's some pictures of what I did today to post up for anyone else with the same question. Instead of using washers to back the bolts out, I cut off the ends of the bolts!




still mounting but a teaser photo:



Great build thread Nomadr!!

...watching with interest, as I am about to order an alum rear bumper (+carrier +front bumper) and have it sent to Australia... loooong way to ship, hope all the bits are in the box!

I haven't seen the 'new style rear recovery points'... anyone got pics on what they look like mounted?

I will also have the 4 x LED's on my order - seems weird that they don't fit..??

S.

Got the install done today, and will post up some finished pics tomorrow. I love it! It looks killer, and the LEDs are awesome bright.

I will post up a new install thread with pictures of what was done to modify things. In the end, it wasn't that big of a deal. It would have been nice for some things to be addressed in the install instructions, but they weren't, so help from the forum always helps

I didn't get very good pictures this afternoon, so will do some final shots tomorrow. However, here is one with the new tow point installed.

sweet, looks great mate - I like the new recovery points...

Pity the LED surrounds aren't black eh? I will be painting/coating my bar black as well - wondering if the LED surrounds could be painted...

S.